Filed Under (Chrysler) by admin on 27-12-2010
Tags: beam indicator,
body control module,
chrysler town,
daytime running light,
fuse,
illumination,
instrument cluster,
lock switch,
power antenna,
rear window,
tail lights,
town country,
window indicator
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1 – 10 Amp (Red) Panel Illumination. 2 – 10 Amp (Red) Guage, Right High Beam Headlight, High Beam Indicator. 3 – 20 Amp (Yellow) RR Wiper, Left Headlight High Beam. 4 – 15 Amp (Blue) RH Park, Back-up Lights Switch & Relay, Speed Porportional Steering Module, Power Door Lock Switch Illumination, Daytime Running Light Module (Canada). 5 – 20 Amp (Yellow) Power Door Lock Arm/Disarm Switches, Power Mirrors, Vanity, Dome, Map, Ignition and Trunk Lights, Sunroof, Radio, Power Antenna, Data Link Connector, Body Control Module. 6 – 15 Amp (Blue) Heated Mirrors, Heated Rear Window Indicator. 7 – 20 Amp (Yellow) Instrument Cluster Illumination, Park & Tail Lights. 8 – 10 Amp (Red) Power Receptacle (Cigarette Lighter), Radio Amplifier, Horns. 9 – 15 Amp (Blue) Power Door Lock Motors (Body Control Module). 10 – Not Used Not Used. 11 – 10 Amp (Red)
Filed Under (Chrysler) by admin on 14-12-2010
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CAUTION: Use only DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. NOTE: ABS bleeding requires conventional bleeding methods (manual or pressure) plus ABS bleeding method (using scan tool). See MANUAL BLEEDING or PRESSURE BLEEDING plus ABS BLEEDING . Bleed system using either conventional bleeding method, then using ABS bleeding method. Repeat conventional bleeding method. Observe following precautions during brake bleeding procedure. DO NOT allow master cylinder to run out of fluid when bleeding brakes. Check fluid level frequently and add fluid as necessary. DO NOT pump brake pedal during bleeding procedure unless directed to do so. Bleed only one brake system component at a time. Use a bleed hose on each wheel cylinder and caliper bleed screw. Be sure to tighten each bleed screw when bleeding is complete. If master cylinder has been overhauled or a new cylinder is to be installed, bench bleed master cylinder before installation. MANUAL BLEEDING 1. Fill master cylinder. Install clear vinyl bleed hose onto left rear bleed screw. Place other end of hose in clean transparent container. 2. Partially fill a container with clean brake fluid. Submerge end of hose in fluid. Pump pedal 3-4 times and hold. Open bleed screw at least one turn. 3. Close bleed screw. Release pedal. Repeat procedure until flow of brake fluid is clear and free of bubbles. Proceed to next bleed screw of brake bleeding sequence. See BLEEDING SEQUENCE table.
Filed Under (Chrysler) by admin on 09-12-2010
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NOTE: NOTE: Whenever a torque strut bolt(s) is loosened, this procedure must be performed. Upper and lower torque struts need to be adjusted together to assure proper engine positioning and engine mount loading. To prevent minimal upward lifting of engine, floor jack must be positioned as shown. See Fig. 1 . 1. Remove pencil strut. See Fig. 2 . Loosen upper and lower torque strut attaching bolt at suspension crossmember and shock tower bracket. Engine position may now be adjusted by positioning a suitable floor jack on the forward edge of transmission bellhousing. See Fig. 1 . 2. With engine supported, remove upper and lower torque struts attachment bolt(s) at shock tower bracket and suspension crossmember. See Fig. 3 . Verify that torque struts are free to move within shock tower bracket and crossmember. Reinstall torque strut bolt(s), but DO NOT tighten. 3. Carefully apply upward force, allowing upper engine to rotate rearward until distance between center of rearmost attaching stud on engine mount bracket (point “A”) and center of hole for washer hose clip on shock tower bracket (point “B”) is 4.7″ (119 mm). See Fig. 4 . CAUTION: Engine must be held in position with jack until both upper and lower torque strut bolts are tightened. 4. With engine held at proper position, tighten both upper and lower torque strut bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . Install pencil strut, and tighten nuts to specification. Remove floor jack.
Filed Under (Chrysler) by admin on 09-12-2010
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SYMPTOM/CONDITION: DIAGNOSIS: 1. Verify the rear of the sunroof glass to roof flushness concern. 2. UNCALIBRATE THE SUNROOF. a. b. c. d. e. 3. RECALIBRATE THE SUNROOF a. b. c. 4. If the uncalibrate/recalibrate procedure did not eliminate the sunroof glass to roof fit, use the procedures outlined in TechCONNECT(R) BODY/SUNROOF/GLASS PANEL/ADJUSTMENTS to adjust the glass panel. If the sunroof glass is now flush, perform the Repair Procedure. If the vehicle operator describes or experiences the Symptom/Condition, perform the Repair Procedure. Insure the battery is at least 12 Volts. Place the ignition switch in RUN position. Locate the sunroof fuse (Fuse 44 in the Power Distribution Center located in the trunk). While the sunroof is still in motion, have an assistant remove the sunroof fuse. Reinstall the sunroof fuse. Press and hold the sunroof vent switch until it stops at the full vent position. Verify sunroof operation by opening, closing, and venting the sunroof. If the uncalibrate/recalibrate procedure corrected the sunroof glass to roof fit, perform the Repair Procedure.
Filed Under (Chrysler) by admin on 09-12-2010
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Inspect power window circuit breaker (25-amp), located in left kick panel. Inspect fuse No. 28 (40-amp) in Intelligent Power Module (IPM). IPM is located on left side of engine compartment. Inspect ground at right “B” pillar. SYSTEM TESTS ALL WINDOWS INOPERATIVE 1. Check power window system circuit breaker and fuse. See TROUBLE SHOOTING . Replace components as necessary. If components are okay, go to next step. 2. Remove driver’s power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Turn ignition on. Using test light, connect ground lead to harness connector terminal No. 13 (Black/Brown wire). Check for voltage by touching test light probe to harness connector terminals No. 9, 11 and 14 (all White/Pink wires). 3. If test light does not illuminate, check power and ground circuits. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . If test light illuminates, ground circuit and power circuit between battery and switch are okay. Check switch and motor. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH and POWER WINDOW MOTOR under COMPONENT TESTS. COMPONENT TESTS VENT WINDOW MOTOR 1. Remove “D” pillar trim panel. See “D” PILLAR TRIM PANEL under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. 2. Disconnect power vent window motor wire connector from body harness. 3. Using 2 jumper wires, connect one to a battery (+) source and the other to a good ground (-). 4. Connect the negative (-) jumper probe to one of the motor connector terminals. 5. Momentarily touch the positive (+) jumper probe to the other motor connector terminal. When the positive probe is connected, the motor should rotate in one direction to either move window open of closed. If window is all the way open or closed the motor will grunt and the crank system will flex when actuated in the one direction. Reverse jumper probes at the motor connector terminals and window should now move in the opposite position to verify full operation. If motor grunts and does not move with the motor connected in both directions, verify that crank system is not binding. POWER WINDOW MOTOR 1. Remove door trim panel and sound pad. See DOOR TRIM PANEL under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. 2. Disconnect power window motor wire connector from door harness. 3. Using 2 jumper wires, connect one to a battery (+) source and the other to a good ground (-). 4. Connect the negative (-) jumper probe to one of the motor connector terminals.