Auto Repair Manual Free Download and ReviewsFree download ebook pdf files automotive manual

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GEAR NOISE Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubricant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing not having the proper offset and squareness. Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed range. The noise can also occur during a specific type of driving condition. These conditions are acceleration, deceleration, coast, or constant load. When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then accelerate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes greatly: Check for insufficient lubricant. Incorrect ring gear backlash. Gear damage. Differential side gears and pinions can be checked by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehicle turns. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snapping or a knocking noise. BEARING NOISE The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound. Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differential. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the source. Worn or damaged differential bearings usually produce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differential bearing noise is also constant and varies only with vehicle speed. Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle. Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right. This will load the bearings and change the noise level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph. LOW SPEED KNOCK Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock. VIBRATION Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually caused by a: Damaged drive shaft. Missing drive shaft balance weight(s). Worn or out-of-balance wheels. Loose wheel lug nuts. Worn U-joint(s). Loose/broken springs. Damaged axle shaft bearing(s). Loose pinion gear nut. Excessive pinion yoke run out. Bent axle shaft(s). Check for loose or damaged front-end components or engine/transmission mounts. These components can contribute to what appears to be a rear end vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets and drive belts. All driveline components should be examined before starting any repair. DRIVELINE SNAP A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by: High engine idle speed. Transmission shift operation. Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts. Worn U-joints. Loose spring mounts. Loose pinion gear nut and yoke. Excessive ring gear backlash. Excessive side gear to case clearance. The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be determined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in isolating the source of a noise.

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Use this test in conjunction with the Fuel Pump Pressure Test and Fuel Pump Capacity Test. Check Valve Operation: The electric fuel pump outlet contains a one-way check valve to prevent fuel flow back into the tank and to maintain fuel supply line pressure (engine warm) when pump is not operational. It is also used to keep the fuel supply line full of gasoline when pump is not operational. After the vehicle has cooled down, fuel pressure may drop to 0 psi (cold fluid contracts), but liquid gasoline will remain in fuel supply line between the check valve and fuel injectors. Fuel pressure that has dropped to 0 psi on a cooled down vehicle (engine OFF) is a normal condition. When the electric fuel pump is activated, fuel pressure should immediately (1 – 2 seconds) rise to specification. Abnormally long periods of cranking to restart a hot engine that has been shut down for a short period of time may be caused by: Fuel pressure bleeding past a fuel injector(s). Fuel pressure bleeding past the check valve in the fuel pump module. 1. Disconnect the fuel inlet line at fuel rail. Refer to Fuel Tubes/Lines/Hoses and Clamps for procedures. On some engines, air cleaner housing removal may be necessary before fuel line disconnection. 2. Obtain correct Fuel Line Pressure Test Adapter Tool Hose. Tool number 6539 is used for 5/16″ fuel lines and tool number 6631 is used for 3/8″ fuel lines. Fig.7 Connecting Adapter Tool (Typical) 3. Connect correct Fuel Line Pressure Test Adapter Tool Hose between disconnected fuel line and fuel rail (Fig. 7). 4. Connect the 0 – 414 kPa (0 – 60 psi) fuel pressure test gauge (from Gauge Set 5069) to the test port on the appropriate Adaptor Tool. The DRB III Scan Tool along with the PEP module, the 500 psi pressure transducer, and the transducer-to-test port adapter may also be used in place of the fuel pressure gauge. The fittings on both tools must be in good condition and free from any small leaks before performing the proceeding test. 5. Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature. 6. Observe test gauge. Normal operating pressure should be 339 kpa ±34 kPa (49.2 psi ±5 psi) . 7. Shut engine OFF. 8. Pressure should not fall below 30 psi for five minutes . 9. If pressure falls below 30 psi , it must be determined if a fuel injector, the check valve within the fuel pump module, or a fuel tube/line is leaking. 10. Again, start engine and bring to normal operating temperature. 11. Shut engine OFF. 12. Testing for fuel injector or fuel rail leakage: Clamp OFF the rubber hose portion of Adaptor Tool between the fuel rail and the test port “T” on Adapter Tool. If pressure now holds at or above 30 psi , a fuel injector or the fuel rail is leaking.

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brake pedal is pressed or has failed. Acceleration rate and Engine output are limited. One trip fault and the code will set within 5 seconds . ETC light is flashing. POSSIBLE CAUSES (F855) 5-volt supply circuit open (F855) 5-volt supply circuit shorted to ground (K23) APP sensor no.1 signal circuit open (K23) APP sensor no.1 signal circuit shorted to ground (K23) APP sensor no.1 signal circuit shorted to the (K167) APP sensor no.1 return circuit (K23) APP sensor no.1 signal circuit shorted to the (K400) APP sensor no.2 return circuit APP sensor PCM Always perform the Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding. DIAGNOSTIC TEST 1. APP SENSOR BELOW 0.25 OF A VOLT Ignition on, engine not running. With a scan tool, read the APP Sensor No.1 voltage. Q: Is the voltage below 0.25 of a volt? YES: Go To 2 NO: Go To 11 2. (F855) 5-VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT WHEN MONITORED: With the ignition on and no other APPS No.1 DTCs present. SET CONDITION: When the APP Sensor No.1 voltage is too low. Engine will additionally idle if the Turn the ignition off. Disconnect the APP Sensor harness connector. Ignition on, engine not running. Measure the voltage on the (F855) 5-volt Supply circuit in the APP Sensor harness connector. Q: Is the voltage between 4.5 and 5.2 volts? YES: Go To 3 NO: Go To 8 3. ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR

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DESCRIPTION WHEEL ALIGNMENT NOTE: Suspension components with rubber/urethane bushings should be tightened with the vehicle at normal ride height. It is important to have the springs supporting the weight of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle ride comfort could be affected and premature bushing wear may occur. Wheel alignment involves the correct positioning of the wheels in relation to the vehicle. The positioning is accomplished through suspension and steering linkage adjustments. An alignment is considered essential for efficient steering, good directional stability and to minimize tire wear. The most important measurements of an alignment are caster, camber and toe. CAUTION: Never attempt to modify suspension or steering components by heating or bending. NOTE: Periodic lubrication of the front suspension/steering system components may be required. Rubber bushings must never be lubricated. Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE for the recommended maintenance schedule. OPERATION WHEEL ALIGNMENT CASTER is the forward or rearward tilt of the steering knuckle from vertical. Tilting the top of the knuckle forward provides negative caster. Tilting the top of the knuckle rearward provides positive caster. Positive caster promotes directional stability. This angle enables the front wheels to return to a straight ahead position after turns. See Fig. 1 CAMBER is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel relative to the center of the vehicle. Tilting the top of the wheel inward provides negative camber. Tilting the top of the wheel outward provides positive camber. Incorrect camber will cause wear on the inside or outside edge of the tire. See Fig. 1 TOE is the difference between the leading inside edges and trailing inside edges of the front tires. Wheel toe position out of specification cause’s unstable steering, uneven tire wear and steering wheel off- center. The wheel toe position is the final front wheel alignment adjustment. See Fig. 1 THRUST ANGLE is the angle of the rear axle relative to the centerline of the vehicle. Incorrect thrust angle can cause off-center steering and excessive tire wear. This angle is not adjustable, damaged component(s) must be replaced to correct the thrust angle. See Fig. 1 STANDARD PROCEDURE HEIGHT MEASUREMENT

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1. Raise vehicle. CAUTION: Do not allow propshafts to hang at attached end. Damage to joint can result. 2. 3. 4. 5. Remove the front and rear propeller shafts. Refer to REMOVAL . Support transmission with jack stand. Remove rear crossmember and skid plate, if equipped. Disconnect transfer case vent hose (4). See Fig. 2. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Disconnect the wiring connector from the shift motor, if necessary. Support transfer case with transmission jack and secure with chains. Remove nuts (2) attaching transfer case (1) to transmission (3). Pull transfer case and jack rearward to disengage transfer case. Remove transfer case from under vehicle. DISASSEMBLY TRANSFER CASE-MP140 Position transfer case on shallow drain pan. Remove drain plug (2) and drain lubricant. 2. Using Holder C-3281 (1), remove the rear output flange nut. 3. Remove the rear output shaft flange (1) from the main shaft (2). If flange is difficult to remove by hand, remove it with bearing splitter, or with standard two jaw puller. Be sure puller tool is positioned securely on flange.