1997 Ford Ranger Wheel Cylinder Removal Installation

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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 26-05-2015

Removal 1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel (1007). Item Part Number Description 1 2028 Brake Shoe Anchor Pin Guide Plate 2 2042 Wheel Cylinder Brake Shoe Link 3 2261 Rear Wheel Cylinder 4 2211 Brake Backing Plate 5 20310-S Bolt, Wheel Cylinder-to-Backing Plate 6 34941-S Washer A — Tighten to 12-18 Nm (106-159 Lb-In) 2. Remove the brake drum (1126), and rear brake shoes and linings (2201) as described in this section. 3. Disconnect the brake line from the rear wheel cylinder. Connect a length of hose to the line and submerge end of hose in a can containing a small amount of brake fluid to prevent air from entering the system. 4. Remove the rear wheel cylinder retaining bolts and lockwashers, and then remove the rear wheel cylinder from the brake backing plate. Installation 1. Apply Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-AA or -BA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M4G92- A or ESE-M4G195-A to wheel cylinder mounting area to seal backing plate mounting area. 2. Place the rear wheel cylinder on the brake backing plate and install the retaining bolts and lockwashers. Tighten the wheel cylinder-to-backing plate bolts to 12-18 Nm (106-159 lb-in). 3. Connect the brake line to the rear wheel cylinder. 4. Install the rear brake shoe and lining (2200) as described in this section. Install the brake drum and adjust the brakes as described in this section. 5. Install the wheel and tire assembly. 6. Bleed the system as described in Section 06-06 . Check brake operation before moving the vehicle.

1997 Ford Ranger Brake Shoes and Lining Removal And Installation

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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 26-05-2015

Removal 1. Remove the wheel (1007) and brake drum (1126). 2. NOTE: If the boots are not removed, brake fluid leakage past the cups may go undetected because the boots may seal the fluid in the rear wheel cylinder. If leaks are found, the rear wheel cylinder must be repaired or replaced. Inspect rear wheel cylinder for signs of leaks or presence of rust by removing the boots and inspecting interior surfaces. Water leaking into the rear wheel cylinder past the boots will cause rust to form and may cause the rear wheel cylinder to seize. 3. If no leaks are found, install brake cylinder clamp over the ends of the rear wheel cylinder as shown. 5. Remove the brake shoe adjusting lever cable from the anchor pin, cable guide and adjusting lever. 6. Remove the cable guide from the secondary brake shoe and lining web. 7. Remove the adjusting lever and adjusting lever return spring. 8. Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw spring. 9. Using Hold-Down Spring Tool T73T-2300-A, remove the brake shoe hold-down spring and pin from each rear brake shoe and lining (2200). 10. Remove the brake shoe adjuster assembly. 11. Remove the primary brake shoe parking brake lever link and parking brake link spring.

1997 Ford Ranger Brake Drum Removal and installation

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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 26-05-2015

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Warning: do not inhale dust from brakes or associated components. Inhalation of dust can be injurious to your health. Compressed air or brushes must not be used to clean brakes, brake drums (1126) and associated components. A vacuum cleaner, such as rotunda brake/clutch/service vacuum 091-r0001 or equivalent, equipped for this purpose should be carefully used to remove any dust. Adherent dust should be removed with a damp rag. Any dust should be contained in a sealed and labeled bag for disposal. Wear an approved high efficiency cartridge or air line respirator and use extra caution to avoid breathing this dust. Always use non-asbestos replacement parts. Removal 1. Raise and support the vehicle so the wheel (1007) is clear of the floor. 2. CAUTION: Use of a drum puller or a torch is not recommended. Drum distortion may result. Remove the hub cap, if equipped, and wheel. 3. Remove the retaining nut and remove the brake drum. 4. CAUTION: Loosen the adjusting screw only if the brake drum cannot be removed. Do not burr, chip or damage the notches in the adjusting screw assembly or the self adjusting mechanism will not function properly. If the brake drum is rusted to the axle shaft pilot, use coarse sandpaper or file to remove the rust buildup, then work the brake drum off. If the brake drum will not come off, insert a narrow screwdriver through the brake adjusting hole in the brake backing plate (2211), and disengage the adjusting lever from the brake adjusting screw assembly. While holding the adjusting lever away from the brake adjusting

1987-1993 Ford Mustang Replacement Transmission Harness

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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 20-08-2013

1) Disconnect battery 2) Raise vehicle and secure appropriately. 3) To perform this installation it will be necessary to remove the driver’s side seat, carpet and kick panel cover. 4) Begin removing the existing transmission harness by disconnecting the harness from the main harness at the kick panel area and at the transmission. Note how harness is routed. Carefully pull grommet loose at the transmission tunnel and remove harness. 5) Install replacement harness following factory routing. 6) Complete installation by confirming harness is routed away from exhaust and any moving parts.
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Ford Ranger and Mazda Pickup Odometer Worm Gear Replacement

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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 16-06-2011

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Step 1: I began by removing the two (four screws for those who have not modified their hood open latch, see photo (1) screws on the panel under the steering column. Be careful when pulling the panel out because you can break the spring clips that hold the panel in at the top. Photo 1: Hood Latch Section Removed. Step 2: Now that the lower panel is off I removed the Lower Dash Trim Panel Screws and the Radio Bezel Screws indicated by yellow arrows. Also take note in the picture the blue arrow indicating the Hood Latch still in place – no need to remove those P.I.A. screws. Step 3: Now I removed the Dash Trim Panel Upper Screws as indicated by the yellow arrows. Step 4: Next I carefully removed the radio bezel first and then gently squeezed the Dash Trim Panel out over the column. The only way to make that easier is to loosen the steering column bolts and lower the column a little. When you get it out you need to unplug the Headlight and Dimmer Switches as shown. Step 5: Now I removed the 4 screws holding the Instrument Panel in place. Step 6: Now slide the Instrument Panel (IP) forward, pulling the left side out first. This will give you access to the back side so you can remove the plugs from the back of the IP – on my 95 there are three, two white and one black – see the photo. Step 7: Now that the IP is out of the truck you need to remove the IP Bezel. This requires the removal of (7) torx drive screws as indicated in the photo. Screws Bezel Off Step 8: Now we have access to the gauges. To remove the Speedometer you need to gently pry up and remove the gauges on either side of the Speedometer. Then gently pry up and remove the Speedometer. Here is the Speedo out . . . Step 9: Now turn the speedo over and place it face down on a soft towel or rag to protect the gauge face and needles. You will notice I did not do this as I took my time and was careful not to damage anything on the front. This photo shows you the Odometer/Trip Meter Motor installed in the back of the Speedo. To remove the motor gently twist it in a clockwise fashion and it will lift out of the socket. When trying to remove the motor you may either have to depress or lift up on the plastic tabs. Then unplug the leads as shown in this picture.