Ford Ranger and Mazda Pickup Odometer Worm Gear Replacement

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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 16-06-2011

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Step 1: I began by removing the two (four screws for those who have not modified their hood open latch, see photo (1) screws on the panel under the steering column. Be careful when pulling the panel out because you can break the spring clips that hold the panel in at the top. Photo 1: Hood Latch Section Removed. Step 2: Now that the lower panel is off I removed the Lower Dash Trim Panel Screws and the Radio Bezel Screws indicated by yellow arrows. Also take note in the picture the blue arrow indicating the Hood Latch still in place – no need to remove those P.I.A. screws. Step 3: Now I removed the Dash Trim Panel Upper Screws as indicated by the yellow arrows. Step 4: Next I carefully removed the radio bezel first and then gently squeezed the Dash Trim Panel out over the column. The only way to make that easier is to loosen the steering column bolts and lower the column a little. When you get it out you need to unplug the Headlight and Dimmer Switches as shown. Step 5: Now I removed the 4 screws holding the Instrument Panel in place. Step 6: Now slide the Instrument Panel (IP) forward, pulling the left side out first. This will give you access to the back side so you can remove the plugs from the back of the IP – on my 95 there are three, two white and one black – see the photo. Step 7: Now that the IP is out of the truck you need to remove the IP Bezel. This requires the removal of (7) torx drive screws as indicated in the photo. Screws Bezel Off Step 8: Now we have access to the gauges. To remove the Speedometer you need to gently pry up and remove the gauges on either side of the Speedometer. Then gently pry up and remove the Speedometer. Here is the Speedo out . . . Step 9: Now turn the speedo over and place it face down on a soft towel or rag to protect the gauge face and needles. You will notice I did not do this as I took my time and was careful not to damage anything on the front. This photo shows you the Odometer/Trip Meter Motor installed in the back of the Speedo. To remove the motor gently twist it in a clockwise fashion and it will lift out of the socket. When trying to remove the motor you may either have to depress or lift up on the plastic tabs. Then unplug the leads as shown in this picture.

Ford Sierra / Granada Release Bearing Noise

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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 05-06-2011

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Release bearing noise can be audible inside the vehicle, in certain cases on the above vehicles, when the sound absorption damper is omitted from the end of the clutch cable location to the release fork. Insufficient clutch cable tension, due to a broken clutch pedal quadrant tension spring, can cause a rattle or squeal from the release bearing, due to no pre-load being applied to the release bearing, which runs in constant mesh with the diaphragm fingers of the clutch cover. The noise normally disappears when light pressure is applied to the clutch pedal. In both cases the release bearing may not be at fault.

Ford Escort, Fiesta, Sierra, Mondeo, P100, 1.8 Diesel/Turbo diesel Camshaft Belt / Fuel Injection Pump Belt Common Causes of Failure

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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 05-06-2011

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Common causes of camshaft timing belt failure on the above vehicles are due to incorrect operating tension, or ingress of dirt, water, or debris entering the timing belt cover. Predominantly on Fiesta models a high percentage of camshaft timing belt failures occur after the ancillary poly ‘V’ drive belt has failed, where strands of material off the broken belt have entered the timing belt cover. This is especially so where an ancillary belt has been fitted that does not contain “Kevlar” based materials. It is therefore important to always remove the timing belt cover to check for belt debris if the ancillary belt has failed. Any contamination that enters the timing belt cover can become compressed between the surfaces of the camshaft timing belt and drive pulleys. This causes wear to both the belt teeth, backing surface, and damage to the drive pulleys, resulting in premature failure of the camshaft timing belt. Later engines have modifications to improve the sealing of the belt cover around the crankshaft pulley, to reduce the level of outside contamination. Incorrect tensioning of the belt during installation will adversely affect the life of the belt. Before fitting a new belt it is important to check and observe the following points :- 1) Right Hand Inner Wing Splash Shield (Fiesta, Escort, Mondeo) This must be fitted and undamaged. 2) Timing Belt Cover Check that all components of the cover are fitted and undamaged. Ensure the latest type of modified cover is fitted. 3) a) Toothed Drive Pulleys Check that the tooth profiles are not worn or damaged. On vehicles built before January 1994 special attention should be given to the nylon toothed pulley situated below the camshaft pulley in a clockwise position on the belt drive (see diag item 4). This should be changed to a modified steel pulley (Ford No. 7053802) plus bolt (6701537). Ensure that the Camshaft and Injection Pump sprockets are free to rotate on the drive locations when the retaining bolts are slackened off. b) 4) a) b) c) Water Pump, Idler and Tensioner Pulleys Check that the belt running surfaces are not worn or damaged. Check that the flanges are running true and not damaged. Check that the water pump, and pulley bearings are in good condition, to ensure correct belt alignment. 5) Crankshaft Pulley The toothed pulley is in two parts. The rear section (Injection Pump Drive) is located onto the crankshaft by a small drive pin. The front section (Camshaft and “Poly V” belt drive) engages onto the rear pulley via a small vee protrusion on the rear face. Should the central fixing bolt for the crankshaft pulley come loose, or an old bolt re-used (Stretch bolt design), it is possible for fretting to take place damaging the locations. The crankshaft and camshaft pulleys can then move out of timing alignment, resulting in valve and piston contact damage. Replacement Procedure As the vehicle is fitted with two timing belts, one to drive the Camshaft, and one to drive the Injection Pump drives, which are driven off the crankshaft pulley, it is strongly recommended that both belts are replaced at the same time. NOTE: Special tools are required to lock the crankshaft, camshaft, and injection pump in the correct angular location when changing the belts, to ensure correct timing position. IMPORTANT: Ensure the engine is cold (not run for 4 hours) before commencing working as this will affect the setting of the timing belt tension and could lead to premature failure. Continued . . . .

2011 Ford Fiesta Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 05-06-2011

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Removal of Factory Shifter Start by parking the car on level ground and placing chocks in front and behind one of the car’s rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling. Place the car in neutral with the parking brake disengaged. From inside the car, remove the shifter knob, boot, and trim panel around the shifter. Gently pull up on the outside of the trim, the clips will come undone one by one. Once the panel is unclipped, unscrew the knob, with boot and trim panel attached, from the lever and remove the assembly as one piece. Figure 1 indicates where to begin unclipping the panel. Next remove the trim piece, in front of the parking brake lever and cupholders, by gently pulling up on it to release the clips holding it in place. Then disconnect the three electrical connectors connected to it. Figure 2 indicates the panel to remove and see figure 3 for the connectors to disconnect. Also pull the parking brake lever boot over the lever to gain more access to the center console by gently pinching the base of the boot trim to release the clips. Now remove the two kick panels on the sides of the center console to gain more access to the shifter assembly. Remove the two exposed Phillips head plastic clip screws and clips, then gently pull outward on the rear of the panels to remove the three additional spring clips on each panel. See Figure 4. With the panels removed, unscrew the two Torx head screws securing the center console to the dash assembly. Then slide the front seats forward, as far as they will go, to remove the clips securing the center console in the rear. See Figures 5 and 6. Now, gently, lift up on the center console and slide it back an inch or so. To extract the shifter assembly, remove the four 10mm head nuts on the corners of the shifter base and disconnect the shift cables. The rear studs can be seen in figure 7. The front nuts were exposed after removing the kick panels. To remove the shift cables, use a screwdriver, or similar tool, to gently pop the levers off the ball studs on the shifter levers. See figure 8. Now lift up the shifter assembly and slide it back a bit. Using a screwdriver, or similar tool, GENTLY pry out the shift cables from the shifter base (see figure 9). Now turn the shifter assembly 90 degrees and remove the complete assembly from the car out through the space you made between the center console and dash. Note: The shifter base is made from plastic and will crack or break if not gently pryed on. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Installation of the Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Assembly To install the shifter assembly follow steps 1-7 in reverse. Note: Before you have completely finished assembling the car be sure to check operation of the shifter by rowing the lever through all the gears to ensure function is correct. 8.

2006 Ford Explorer 6R60 Transmission Selector Lever Cable REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 07-05-2011

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Selector Lever Cable Vehicles Equipped with a 6R60 Transmission Removal All vehicles 1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02. 3. With the selector lever in PARK, disconnect the selector lever cable from the selector lever. Vehicle equipped with a 6R60 transmission 6. Remove the cable shield by prying on the shield closest to the boot, then sliding the shield away from the boot. 4. Disconnect the selector lever cable from the selector lever housing. 7. Unlock the lock tab and disconnect the selector lever cable end from the transmission manual lever. 5. Pull the cable and grommet through the floorpan. 8. Disconnect the selector lever cable from the bracket and remove the cable. Vehicles equipped with a 5R55S transmission 9. Remove the cable shield by prying on the side of the shield closest to the boot, then sliding the shield away from the boot. 10. Unlock the lock tab and disconnect the selector lever cable end from the transmission manual lever. 11. Disconnect the selector lever cable from the bracket and remove the cable. Installation Vehicles equipped with a 6R60 transmission 1. Install the selector lever cable into the bracket. 2. Connect the selector lever cable end onto the transmission manual lever and lock the lock tab. 3. NOTE: If the shield is loose, install a new shield. Install the cable shield. Vehicles equipped with a 5R55S transmission 4. Install the selector lever cable into the bracket. 5. Connect the selector lever cable end onto the transmission manual lever.