Auto Repair Manual Free Download and ReviewsFree download ebook pdf files automotive manual

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1. Before testing the power window control functions, troubleshoot the multiplex control system. Driver’s Multiplex Control Unit 2. Remove the driver’s multiplex control unit from the driver’s under-dash fuse/relay box. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. With the driver’s multiplex control unit still disconnected, make these input tests at the fuse/relay box socket. If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. 5. Reconnect the driver’s multiplex control unit to the fuse/relay box, turn the ignition switch ON (II), and perform the following input tests at the appropriate connectors on the back of the fuse/relay box. If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6.

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You can tell a lot about what’s ailing a sick A/T just by looking at the condition of its ATF. It can help you accurately diagnose an A/T problem before you replace solenoids or order a reman A/T. Here’s how you do it: 1. Use a fine-mesh strainer to drain the ATF from the sick A/T and A/T cooler into a clean container. (A disposable paint strainer or coffee filter works great for this.) 2. Look at the condition of the ATF: • If the ATF is very clean and the A/T slips, flares, or shifts harshly, solenoid replacement will usually fix this problem and it’s an inexpensive alternative to replacing the A/T. • If the ATF has lots of metallic particles swirling around in it, don’t bother replacing solenoids because the problem will most likely happen again. A reman A/T is your only option. Make sure you flush the A/T cooler and lines before installing the reman A/T (see S/B 89-022, A/T Cooler Flushing Procedure or refer to the appropriate S/M). If you don’t, any contaminants from the cooler and lines will get inside the A/T and then you’ll be dealing with a comeback. • If you’re not sure if the contamination is normal, try draining the ATF from a healthy A/T through a paint strainer into another container, and comparing the fluids. But keep in mind, some amount of fluid discoloration is normal and even large metallic particles on the magnetic drain plug is OK.

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SYMPTOM The power steering pump whines, buzzes, or hums after driving for 30 minutes in temperatures of 35 to 40 degrees F (2 to 5 degrees C). PROBABLE CAUSE The power steering pump reservoir is defective. CORRECTIVE ACTION Flush the power steering system with clean power steering fluid, then replace the power steering reservoir. DIAGNOSIS 1. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle twice). 2. Listen for abnormal noises from the power steering pump while the steering wheel is centered and not being turned. • If the pump whines, buzzes, or hums, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. • If the noise is not coming from the pump, this service bulletin does not apply. Check for other possible causes of the noise. 3. Inspect the power steering reservoir. Is there a white dot on the reservoir cover, with one of its ribs pointing toward the reservoir holder? Yes – This vehicle already has the revised power steering reservoir. Continue with normal troubleshooting procedures. No – Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. POWER STEERING RESERVOIR COVER 2. Drain the fluid from the power steering system: • Connect a suitable diameter drain hose to the disconnected return hose. • Hold the end of the drain hose in a suitable container. • Start the engine, and run it at idle while you turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock several times. • When the fluid stops running out of the hose, shut off the engine. • Discard the used fluid.

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Service at the indicated distance or time, whichever comes first. Use this schedule if the vehicle is driven MAINLY in Canada or in any of the following conditions. If only OCCASIONALLY driven in these conditions, use the Normal Conditions schedule. Severe Driving Conditions Driving less than 5 miles (8 km) per trip or, in freezing temperatures, driving less than 10 miles (16 km) per trip. Driving in extremely hot (over 90 ºF/32 ºC) conditions. Extensive idling or long periods of stop-and-go driving, such as a taxi or a commercial delivery vehicle. Trailer towing, driving with a car-top carrier, or driving in mountainous conditions. Driving on muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads. Do the items in parts A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, and K as required for the mileage/time interval listed. NOTE: According to state and federal regulations, failure to do the maintenance items marked with an asterisk (*) will not void the customer’s emissions warranties. However, Honda recommends that all maintenance services be done at the recommended intervals to ensure long-term reliability. Replace engine oil every 5,000 miles (8,000 km) or 6 months. Engine oil capacity without oil filter: 4.0 L (4.2 US qt). Replace engine oil filter every 10,000 miles (16,000 km) or 1 year. Engine oil capacity with oil filter: 4.2 L (4.4 US qt). Check front and rear brakes every 10,000 miles (16,000 km) or 1 year. Check pads and discs for wear (thickness), damage, and cracks. Check calipers for damage, leak, and tightness of mount bolts. Lubricate all hinges, locks, and latches every 10,000 miles (16,000 km) or 1 year. Rotate tires, and check tire inflation and condition every 10,000 miles (16,000 km). Follow the pattern shown in the Owner’s Manual. Inspect tie-rod ends, steering gearbox, and gearbox boots every 10,000 miles (16,000 km) or 1 year. Check rack grease and steering linkage. Check boots for damage or leaking grease. Check fluid lines for damage or leaks. Inspect suspension components every 10,000 miles (16,000 km) or 1 year. Check bolts for tightness. Check condition of ball joint boots for deterioration and damage.

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SYMPTOM In cold weather, the engine idles roughly after a cold start. The MIL may also come on with DTC P0107 (MAP sensor circuit low voltage) or DTC P0108 (MAP sensor circuit high voltage) set. PROBABLE CAUSE Moisture freezes inside the MAP sensor. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the MAP sensor. For Japan-built Civics, also replace the intake manifold. REPAIR PROCEDURE – ACCORD V6, ODYSSEY NOTE: Discard the instructions that came with the kit; they are incorrect for this repair. Follow this procedure instead. 1. Unplug the 3P connector from the MAP sensor. 2. Use a small, flat-tip screwdriver to pry out the retainer from the connector. Also, pry out the retainer from the new 3P connector. NEW 3P CONNECTOR OLD 3P CONNECTOR Remove these retainers. 3. Remove the No. 1 terminal (YEL/RED wire) from the old 3P connector. NO. 1 TERMINAL 4. Insert the No. 1 terminal (YEL/RED wire) into the left (No. 1) cavity of the new 3P connector. 8. Remove the MAP sensor and the O-ring from the throttle body (two washer-screws). Discard the sensor and the O-ring, but save the washer-screws. Transfer the No. 1 terminal NOTE: For 1998–99 Accord V6 models, discard the sensor spacer from the kit, and use P/N 16442-P8F-A21, H/C 6562896, instead. Also, discard the adapter harness bracket from the kit. This bracket cannot be mounted to the spacer on those models. 9. Position the new O-ring on the throttle body. Then install the sensor spacer with the washer-screws you saved in step 8.