Auto Repair Manual Free Download and ReviewsFree download ebook pdf files automotive manual

download
Customer may report that the vehicle is hard to fill with fuel or that the fuel pump nozzle shuts off repeatedly while trying to fill vehicle. This customer complaint can occur due to a number of different causes. The fuel tank is the least likely cause of this condition. The following Diagnostic procedure can be used to diagnose the issues. DIAGNOSIS: 1. Is the vehicle a LX/LE/LC/L2? a. Yes >> proceed to Step #2 b. No >> proceed to Step #4 2. Idle the vehicle 60 to 90 seconds upon stopping. 3. Does tank refill properly? a. No >> proceed to Step #4 b. Yes >> Inform the customer to idle the vehicle for 60 to 90 seconds upon stopping if vehicle was driven aggressively. This is due to the fact that on the LX/LE/LC/L2 the fuel tank is a unique saddle tank design and needs 30 to 60 seconds while the engine is running to level the fuel in both half’s of the fuel tank. Allowing the vehicle to idle for this amount of time will let the fuel pump transfer fuel to the left side tank, opening the control valve and allowing normal fuel filling. 4. Disconnect the vapor recirculation tube at the fuel tank. 5. Attempt to refill fuel tank. 6. Does tank refill properly? a. Yes >> Proceed to Step #7 b. No>> Proceed to Step #11. 7. Reconnect the vapor recirculation tube at the fuel tank. 8. Disconnect the other end of the vapor recirculation tube at the fuel filler tube. 9. Attempt to refill fuel tank. 10. Does tank refill properly? a. Yes >> Replace fuel filler tube. b. No >> Replace the vapor recirculation tube. 11. Disconnect the control valve to EVAP canister tube at the fuel tank. -3- 12. Reconnect the vapor recirculation tube at the fuel tank. 13. Does tank refill properly? a. No >> Replace Fuel Tank. b. Yes >> Proceed to Step #14. 14. Reconnect the control valve to EVAP canister tube at the fuel tank. 15. Disconnect the control valve to EVAP canister tube at the EVAP canister. 16. Attempt to refill fuel tank. 17. Does tank refill properly? a. Yes >> Blockage is in the EVAP Canister, or ESIM, or Clean air hose (ESIM vent hose), or filter. Diagnose appropriately. b. No >> Replace the control valve to EVAP canister tube.

download
SUBJECT: New HVAC Sub-Assembly Replaces Blend Or Recirc Door Components MODELS: 1999 – 2004 (WJ/WG) Grand Cherokee (All Markets) New HVAC sub-assemblies are now available in the Mopar Parts system. Each new sub-assembly consists of several individual components. The new sub-assemblies improve component reliability. It is recommended that the respective sub-assembly be installed if a blend air door(s), a recirculation door, a door link, or a sub-assembly housing requires replacement. The following table provides the part numbers for the new HVAC sub-assemblies.

download
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Turn the steering wheel to move the front wheels to the full left position. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the plastic push-in fasteners that secure the forward end of the left front wheelhouse splash shield to the inner fender panel and the front fascia. 5. Pull the forward end of the left front wheelhouse splash shield away from the inner fender panel and front fascia far enough to access the washer pump/motor unit (2) on the outboard side of the washer reservoir (4) for service. 6. Disconnect the headlamp and dash wire harness connector (1) for the washer pump motor from the motor connector receptacle. 1. 2. 3. 4. NOTE: To aid in reinstallation, note the installed position of the washer hoses prior to disconnecting them from the washer pump. 7. Disconnect the front and rear washer hoses (3) from the barbed outlet nipples of the washer pump and allow the washer fluid to drain into a clean container for reuse. 8. Grasp the top of the washer pump/motor housing and pull it firmly outward far enough to disengage the snap post on the top of the motor from the receptacle in the reservoir. 9. Grasp the lower part of the washer pump/motor housing and, using a back and forth twisting action, pull the unit outward from the reservoir far enough to disengage the pump inlet nipple from the rubber grommet seal in the reservoir. 10. Remove the rubber grommet seal from the washer pump mounting hole in the reservoir and discard. 1. Lubricate a new rubber grommet seal with clean washer fluid and install it into the washer pump mounting hole located in the outboard side of the washer reservoir (4). Always use a new rubber grommet seal on the reservoir. 2. Position the barbed inlet nipple of the washer pump/motor unit (2) to the rubber grommet seal in the reservoir. 3. Using hand pressure, press on the lower part of the washer pump firmly and evenly until the barbed inlet nipple is fully seated in the rubber grommet seal in the reservoir. 4. Align the snap post on the top of the motor housing with the snap post receptacle in the washer reservoir. 5. Using hand pressure, press firmly and evenly on the top of motor housing until the post snaps into the receptacle. NOTE: Be certain to reconnect the front and rear washer hoses to the proper outlet nipples of the washer pump. Failure to properly connect the hoses will cause the front and rear washer systems to operate incorrectly. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. Reconnect the front and rear washer hoses (3) to the barbed outlet nipples of the washer pump. Reconnect the headlamp and dash wire harness connector (1) for the washer pump/motor unit to the connector receptacle on the top of the motor. Reinstall the plastic push-in fasteners that secure the left front wheelhouse splash shield to the inner fender panel and the front fascia. Lower the vehicle. Reconnect the battery negative cable. Refill the washer reservoir with the washer fluid drained during removal.

download
1. 2. 3. 4. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the cover from over the top of the front lamp unit (1). Remove the grille from the front of the vehicle. If the front lamp being serviced is on the same side of the vehicle as the engine fresh air intake tube, unsnap the air intake tube from the air cleaner housing and remove it from between the lamp and the radiator yoke hydroform. Remove the three screws (3) that secure the two lower and the upper inboard lamp mounting brackets to the front end sheet metal. If equipped, remove the push pin fastener (2) that secures the upper outboard lamp mounting bracket to the top of the radiator yoke hydroform. The lower inboard lamp mounting bracket is captured between a metal mounting bracket on the top of the front frame crossmember and a tab of the plastic front fascia reinforcement. Push the tab of the front fascia reinforcement forward far enough for lamp mounting bracket clearance while maneuvering the lamp unit inboard during removal. Pull the lamp away from the front of the vehicle far enough to access and disconnect the headlamp and dash wire harness connector (5) from the pigtail connector on the back of the lamp housing. Remove the lamp unit from the vehicle. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. INSTALLATION 1. Check to be certain that the three front lamp unit plastic nuts (4) are properly installed and in good condition. 2. Position the lamp (1) close enough to the front of the vehicle to reconnect the headlamp and dash wire harness connector (5) to the pigtail connector on the back of the lamp housing. 3. Position the lamp to the front of the vehicle. Be certain that the lower inboard lamp mounting bracket is captured between the metal mounting bracket on the top of the front frame crossmember and the tab of the plastic front fascia reinforcement. Push the tab of the front fascia reinforcement forward far enough for lamp mounting bracket clearance while maneuvering the lamp unit outboard during installation. 4. If equipped, install the push pin fastener (2) that secures the upper outboard lamp mounting bracket to the top of the radiator yoke hydroform. 5. Install and tighten the three screws (3) that secure the two lower and the upper inboard lamp mounting brackets to the front end sheet metal. Tighten the screws to 2 N.m (16 in. lbs.). 6. If the engine fresh air intake tube was removed during lamp removal, position it between the lamp and the radiator yoke hydroform and snap it into the air cleaner housing. 7. Reinstall the grille onto the front of the vehicle. 8. Reinstall the front lamp unit cover over the top of the lamp. 9. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 10. Confirm proper headlamp alignment.

download
PREFERRED MIXTURE The required ethylene-glycol (antifreeze) and water mixture depends upon the climate and vehicle operating conditions. The recommended mixture of 50/50 ethylene-glycol and water will provide protection against freezing to -37°C (-35°F). The antifreeze concentration must always be a minimum of 44 percent, year-round in all climates. If percentage is lower than 44 percent, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation, and cooling system components may be severely damaged by corrosion. Maximum protection against freezing is provided with a 68 percent antifreeze concentration, which prevents freezing down to -67.7°C (-90°F). A higher percentage will freeze at a warmer temperature. Also, a higher percentage of antifreeze can cause the engine to overheat because the specific heat of antifreeze is lower than that of water. UNACCEPTABLE MIXTURES 100 Percent Ethylene-Glycol Use of 100 percent ethylene-glycol will cause formation of additive deposits in the system, as the corrosion inhibitive additives in ethylene-glycol require the presence of water to dissolve. The deposits act as insulation, causing temperatures to rise to as high as 149°C (300°F). This temperature is hot enough to melt plastic and soften solder. The increased temperature can result in engine detonation. In addition, 100 percent ethylene-glycol freezes at 22°C (-8°F). Propylene-glycol Formulations Propylene-glycol formulations do not meet Chrysler coolant specifications. Its overall effective temperature range is smaller than that of ethylene-glycol. The freeze point of 50/50 propylene-glycol and water is -32°C (-26°F). 5°C higher than ethylene-glycol’s freeze point. The boiling point (protection against summer boil-over) of propylene-glycol is 125°C (257°F) at 96.5 kPa (14 psi), compared to 128°C (263°F) for ethylene-glycol. Use of propylene-glycol can result in boil-over or freeze-up in Chrysler vehicles, which are designed for ethylene-glycol. Propylene glycol also has poorer heat transfer characteristics than ethylene glycol. This can increase cylinder head temperatures under certain conditions. Propylene-glycol/Ethylene-glycol Mixtures Propylene-glycol/ethylene-glycol Mixtures can cause the destabilization of various corrosion inhibitors, causing damage to the various cooling system components. Also, once ethylene-glycol and propylene-glycol based coolants are mixed in the vehicle, conventional methods of determining freeze point will not be accurate. Both the refractive index and specific gravity differ between ethylene glycol and propylene glycol.