Filed Under (KIA) by admin on 15-09-2010
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RELEASE CYLINDER Removal To prevent loss of brake fluid during clutch slave cylinder removal, the disconnected steel hydraulic line must be plugged or directed into a suitable container. 1. Disconnect flexible hose from steel hydraulic line. NOTICE: Twisting may damage the flex hose. 2. Remove hydraulic line retainer clip. 3. Remove two bolts. Disassembly 1. Remove flexible hose, boot, and push rod. 2. Remove piston and cap assembly and return spring. 3. Remove bleeder cap, bleeder screw, and steel ball. 4. Use brake fluid to clean inner parts. Inspection After cleaning, inspect the following parts: 1. Release cylinder bore and piston for wear. 2. Weak return spring. Assembly 1. Coat the piston and cups with clean brake fluid. 2. Insert steel ball in cylinder bleeder hole and secure with bleeder screw. 3. Push bleeder cap over bleeder screw end. 4. Insert return spring and piston and cup assembly into cylinder bore. 5. With boot installed on push rod, insert rod into cylinder bore and snap boot in place. 6. Connect flexible hose to the cylinder body. Tighten flexible hose nut to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). Installation 1. With cylinder push rod in clutch arm detent, attach cylinder to the transmission case with two bolts. Tighten bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
Filed Under (KIA) by admin on 14-09-2010
Tags: air cleaner,
air intake,
control cable,
dlc,
drivetrain,
intake tube,
kia sportage,
maf,
resonator,
throttle body,
throttle cable,
vacuum system
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CONDITION 4 wheel drive mode inoperative (diagnosed either during or after replacing knuckles and hub seals) due to insufficient vacuum being applied to the hubs. CAUSE In some cases moisture has entered the vacuum system, and vacuum lines have become corroded, plugged, or have developed a leak. CORRECTIVE ACTION Verify that with 4 wheel drive mode selected, vacuum is present at the T-fitting downstream from the solenoid (see photo). If not, diagnose and repair as required, otherwise use the following procedure to replace the vacuum lines: Note: Procedure applies to right side line; left side needs no further info. Disconnect and remove battery and battery tray. Leaving ground cables attached, remove clamp bracket from battery tray bottom and move out of the way. Remove plastic air resonator and disconnect throttle cable (plus A/T control cable if equipped). Disconnect MAF and IAC connectors, and 6 mm bolt holding DLC and MAF brackets to air cleaner housing. Disconnect air intake tube from throttle body, and MAF sensor from air
Filed Under (KIA) by admin on 09-09-2010
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NOTICE: To avoid paint damage, painted surfaces surrounding the master cylinder should be covered. 1. Using a line wrench, disconnect steel hydraulic line. The brake hydraulic system reservoir provides brake fluid for the clutch control system. To prevent loss of brake fluid during clutch master cylinder removal, the disconnected hydraulic fluid transfer hose must be plugged or directed into a suitable container. 2. Disconnect brake fluid transfer hose. 3. From engine compartment, remove lower mounting nut. 4. From passenger compartment, remove upper nut from clutch master cylinder mounting stud. 5. Remove clutch master cylinder and gasket. DISASSEMBLY 1. Press down on the piston and remove the stop wire with needle-nose pliers. 2. With stop wire removed, use compressed air to remove the piston and secondary cup assembly, primary cup and return spring. 3. Use brake fluid to clean inner parts.
Filed Under (KIA) by admin on 17-08-2010
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Removal 1. Disconnect negative battery cable. 2. Remove the upper two bolts from the intake manifold bracket. 3. Raise vehicle and support. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Remove the two bolts on the clutch release cylinder and push aside (M/T). Remove the lower two intake manifold bracket bolts. Remove intake manifold bracket. Remove the two upper starter bolts. Remove the lower starter bolt. 9. 10. 11. 12. Pull the starter from the clutch (M/T) / torque converter (A/T) housing and prop in place. Lower the vehicle. From above, disconnect the S-terminal connector. Remove nut and lock washer on B-terminal. 13. 14. 15. 16. Disconnect B-terminal. Raise and support vehicle. Push transmission wire harness aside. Remove starter. Installation 1. Place starter in engine well. 2. Lower vehicle. 3. Connect B-terminal wire. 4. Install washer and nut on B-terminal and tighten. 5. Connect S-terminal. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Lower intake manifold bracket into position and insert the two upper bolts. Raise and support vehicle. Place starter in position. Insert the two upper starter bolts. Insert lower starter bolt. NOTE:: The starter may require adjustment after installation. If required, rotate the starter slightly to provide proper clearance. 11. Tighten the three starter bolts. Tighten the bolts to 27 – 40 lb-ft (37 – 54 N.m). 12. Insert lower bracket bolts and tighten. Tighten the bolts to 27 – 40 lb-ft (37 – 54 N.m). 13. Position clutch release cylinder and install bolts (M/T). Tighten the bolts to 27 – 40 lb-ft (37 – 54 N.m). 14. Lower vehicle.
Filed Under (KIA) by admin on 16-08-2010
Tags: alarm system,
connector pin,
crdi,
dashboard,
grommet,
KIA,
kia sorento,
steering column,
wire colour,
xe,
xs
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When making the connections as detailed above, the Sorento RHD Wiring Diagram Manual (Pt No A3EE-EG 20A) must be available to confirm that the correct Connector, Pin Number and wire colour is identified before connection takes place. Installation Note: Prior to commencing the installation of the alarm system, ensure that the contents are complete and that you are fully conversant with the splicing and soldering technique shown on the previous pages. Trim Removal L/H (N/S) Kick Well Panel L/H (N/S)Dashboard Side Panel Steering Column Upper Housing R/H (O/S) “A” Post Trim Panel L/H (N/S) “A” Post Trim Panel Remove the two M6 nuts securing the main grommet retaining shroud. Remove the insulating tape from the rubber truncking and the main harness to allow access through the trunking into the grommet. Note: Do NOT include the bonnet switch wire when feeding the alarm harness through the trunking Feeding the alarm harness into the car via the main grommet will require great care as space is restricted. Therefore, tape the end of the alarm harness, including connectors, to a suitable pilot feeder. A stiff coat hanger can be used but you MUST ensure the end to be fed into the grommet is bent over and tapped to prevent damage to the main harness when feeding through the mai 9 grommet.