Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 05-03-2011
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Rear spoiler drilling procedure 1. Cut template ? along the dotted line using scissors. 2. Attach template ? to the trunk lid / liftgate using tape, aligning it with the line just before the trunk lid / liftgate curves. 3. Punch the trunk lid / liftgate through the center of the crosshairs on template ?. (2 locations on each side) CAUTION • Do not punch the trunk lid / liftgate hard, otherwise it may deform. 4. Remove template ? from the trunk lid / liftgate. 5. Drill out the punched points using a 3mm drill bit. 6. Enlarge 3mm holes to the following size using an appropriate drill bit. 3mm?9mm (2 locations) CAUTION • The drill bits are extremely sharp. Use care when handling the bits to prevent injuries. • When drilling, wrap the drill with adhesive tape to prevent damage to the vehicle. 7. Remove burrs completely from around the back of the holes using a round file. 8. Using IPA (Isopropyl alcohol) , remove grease from around the holes and apply touch-up paint for rust prevention. CAUTION • Completely remove particles from the trunk and cabin, otherwise the particles may rust the body or cause abnormal noise. Stay damper removal / installation WARNING • Removing the trunk lid / liftgate without supporting it can be dangerous. The trunk lid / liftgate may fall and injure you. Open the trunk lid / liftgate fully and support it before removing the stay damper. Always perform these procedures together with at least another person. 1. Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the stay damper bands (2 each side). 2. Remove the stay damper from the body and trunk lid / liftgate. 3. Install stay dampers (LH/RH) ? and ? of the accessory kit parts. NOTE • Remove and install the stay dampers one by one. • The figures are for the LH side. For RH side, perform the procedure in the same way as the LH side. • The removed stay dampers are not used for this accessory.
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 05-03-2011
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Open door and lower window. Remove two screws behind door handle. Remove screw from lower left corner of door. Pull window control panel out from door panel. Remove screw from center of door panel. 6. Lift door panel away from door and pass window control panel through opening in center of door panel. 7. Remove screws around speaker. Remove speaker from door and disconnect speaker wire. 8. Disconnect mirror wire harness from inside door. 9. Peel off foam insulation from corner of door. 10. Remove three mirror mounting nuts from corner of door and remove mirror housing assembly.
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 05-03-2011
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Install: 30-1hr (Removing Intake Resonator) Cost: $0 Pro: Less intake restriction, CAI preparation Cons: N/A You can remove your stock intake\’s resonator to produce a stronger growl. This does not exactly make any power, but it prepares you for the stage 2 modifications. If you plan to just replace your stock air panel filter, then I advise you to do this step as well. You don’t need the intake resonator for a dealer to do engine work/diagnosis.Install: 5-10min (remove the 4 clips on the air box, lift up, remove stock filter, replace with new) Cost: $40-60 Pros: Better mileage and engine efficiency Cons: N/A Replacing the stock paper air filter with a K&N panel filter will let the engine ingest more air than the stock filter due to the less restriction provided by the K&N. Note: If you would like to go with an aftermarket later on, it would be advisable to skip this step of your modification process.
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 02-03-2011
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Some vehicles equipped with the folding soft top may experience water accumulation in the foot wells due to the soft top drains becoming clogged with leaves and other debris. 1736a DRAIN COVER DRAIN VALVE ASSEMBLY As mass production changes: – A filter has been added to the drain valve assembly to prevent leaves or other foreign substance from clog- ging the drain. – Ribs have been added to the upper and lower valves of the drain valve assembly to prevent the valves (rub- ber flaps) from being forced out of position in the event compressed air is used to clear the drains from under the vehicle. – A foam urethane filter has been established for the drain cover. Vehicles with clogged drains should have the drain assemblies updated as described in the following repair pro- cedure, also included in this bulletin are maintenance tips for the customers to perform to ensure dependable operation of these drains. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Removal of the soft top is not required to perform the repair procedure. Illustrations in this bulletin are for component identification and location purposes only. 1. Verify customer concern. 2. Remove rear package trim according to Workshop Manual (section 09 -17 REAR PACKAGE TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION) and related components, then remove the left and right side shelves according to Workshop Manual (section 09-17 SIDE SHELF REMOVAL/INSTALLATION). 3. Remove the seat belt retractors and covers according to Workshop Manual (section 08-11 SEAT BELT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION). – - TYPE A VEHICLES: Proceed to next step. TYPE B VEHICLES: Proceed to “TYPE B VEHICLES” under DRAIN VALVE REPLACEMENT. 4. Using seat belt retractor holes for access, remove the drain valve assemblies. DRAIN COVER FILTER INSTALLATION 1. Clean and degrease the drain cover assemblies.
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 02-03-2011
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Table of contents A. B. C. D. E. F. Front bumper removal Lower Side Vent Grille Install Lower Center Grille Install Main Grille Install Front bumper Install Side Vent modifications for fog lights A. Front bumper removal. Tools Reqd: ratchet with 8mm and 10mm sockets (extension not required), small flat blade screwdriver, small phillips head screwdriver. Open the hood and prop it up. Remove the four 10mm bolts (see photo) Remove the quick-lock fasteners holding the weather trim piece in place. They are removed using a small Phillips screwdriver. Remove the 4 quick-lock fasteners in the passenger fender wheel (see photo). Using a Phillips head screwdriver, to back the center out (you may need to hold the outer ring to prevent it from turning) then pull the center out and then the outer ring. Repeat this for the driver’s side as well. Pull back the underpinning in the fender wells to locate the 8mm fastener that holds the side markers (orange lenses). Once the fastener is removed, a tab (see sub photo) must be released by pressing it down while pulling the side marker outward. The side marker is then slid to the rear to fully remove. Looking under the front end of the car you will find ten 8mm screws that hold the front bumper to the underpinning (see photo). At this point the front bumper cover is held in place merely by a locating pin that is beneath the trim at the top. Pull the bumper cover away from the fender on both sides at the side markers then proceed to lift the bumper cover upward and forward. At this point if you have fog lamps you will need to remove the wiring connectors. Place the front bumper cover on a padded surface to prevent scratching. You should now have something like this (minus the snazzy new grille).