Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 01-03-2011
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APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS 2006 – 2007 Mazda6 with driver’s manual lumbar support DESCRIPTION On some vehicles equipped with a driver’s manual lumbar support, the lumbar will not adjust position or may be inoperative. A new manual lumbar support assembly is available as a replacement service part. NOTE: It is NOT necessary to replace the entire driver’s seat assembly to restore the manual lumbar support function. Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Verify customer concern. 2. Turn ignition switch to ON position. 3. Record all customer’s pre-set radio stations. 4. Adjust driver’s seat back to most forward position. 5. Turn ignition switch to LOCK position. 6. Rotate lumbar dial clockwise to fully relaxed position (end of travel). 7. Disconnect negative battery cable and wait for a minimum of one (1) minute. 8. Remove driver’s seat from vehicle according to Workshop Manual (section 09-13 FRONT SEAT REMOVAL/ INSTALLATION [EXCEPT L3 WITH TC]).
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 01-03-2011
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IMPORTANT! Park your car on a level surface and block the wheels. Engaging and disengaging the emergency brake and gear shift is required for installation. -Remove the 2×8mm bolts located under the rubber pad in the center console compartment. -Remove the shift knob by rotating it counter clockwise. -Remove center section of the console, held in by pressure clips with the shift boot. -Remove 2 screws just forward of the shifter. -Remove the ashtray, cigarette lighter, and cigarette lighter housing held in place by pressure clips leaving the wiring attached. -Remove 2×8mm bolts below the temperature controls. -Disconnect the white electrical connection (MS3) only thus allowing the console to be removed. -Carefully remove the entire center console by pulling it back, then angling it up towards the back of the car. Adjusting the emergency brake and gear shift lever may be necessary for removal. -Remove the 4×10mm bolts around the shifter cage. -Remove the steel sleeves with a flat head screw driver from the top. -Remove the rubber bushings from the base of the shifter cage by pealing them out from underneath. -Install the JBR Shifter Bushings underneath the shifter cage indexing the small diameter side (up) of the bushing with the shifter cage. -Set the supplied washers in place on the top side of the shifter cage taking care not to allow the bushings to come out of their indexed locations in the shifter cage. -Reinstall the 4×10mm bolts and tighten firmly. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. -Carefully reassemble the console and enjoy your new shifter!
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 01-03-2011
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Each factory headlight is bolted to the car by only (3) nuts. Once the (3) nuts are unscrewed the headlight will be able to be removed from where it is bolted. In order to completely remove the headlight from the car you will have to unplug the factory wiring harness from the back of the headlight. To accomplish this remove the 4 screws holding the black plastic surround while the headlight is up. Loosen the four bolts holding the headlight lid on the assembly. Once removed, you will be able to gain access to the headlight to unplug the socket and associated clips. Now you can remove the headlight from the car. Below I will walk you through this entire process. Passenger side Step 1) In order to reach one of the bolts to remove the factory headlight on the passenger side you will have to temporarily remove the radiator overflow bottle. This consists of removing (3) 10mm bolts and moving the entire bottle while the factory headlights are removed Step 2) with the overflow bottle out of the way it is now time to remove the first nut. This nut is positioned horizontal in relation to the car and was hidden behind the overflow bottle. With a socket wrench remove this 14mm nut. Step 3) Now it is time to remove the first vertical 14mm nut. It is located right behind the headlight while the headlight is in the closed position. Use a socket wrench with an extension on it to reach it, Step 4) The last nut is located right behind the one that was just taken off. It is very hard to see as it is located just under the motor used to raise and lower the headlight. In order to remove this nut, a 14mm open end wrench is necessary to reach it. Because of tight space I have found that in order to give some more room, first remove the relay held by the 10 mm bolt next to the blue arrow. After that is out of the way remove the 10 mm bolt shown by the red arrow. After the bolt is removed gently push the metal bracket and pipe out of the way. Remember to reinstall this bolt once the light is removed. Step 5) now that you have some more room to work, removing the last nut is now possible. If you are having a hard time finding the last nut, look at the picture below to see an open view of where the nut was.
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 28-02-2011
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Removal of Factory Intake 1. 2. Pull upwards to remove the engine cover. Unclip the battery cover and remove, then disconnect the negative battery cable. Disengage the plastic rivet. Slide the battery cold air vent backwards and remove from the engine compartment. Disconnect the mass air sensor electrical connection. Depress the retaining clip and disconnect the rank case vent hose from the stock intake tube. Remove the switch/sensor from the air cleaner cover. Loosen the clamp at the throttle body. Unclip the coolant hose from the air cleaner cover. Unclip the air cleaner cover and remove the complete upper air cleaner assembly. Remove the rubber retainer from the core support. Remove the lower air cleaner assembly. Unclip the wire harness from the side of the battery box. Remove the mass air sensor from the air cleaner cover. Remove the plastic clip from the crank case vent on the stock intake tube. Slide the clamps off rubber rank case vent. Remove the plastic vent from the stock intake tube. Slide the plastic clip from before back onto the crank case vent. Raise the vehicle up and support by jack stands, then remove the left front tire. Remove the four bolts and one plastic rivet from the inner valance, then remove the valance. Remove the three plastic rivets and six hex bolts on the inner valance, then pull the inner valance downward. Remove the three bolts that secure the air intake resonator to the inner fender, then remove the resonator. Secure the rubber mounted stud to the hole on the battery tray. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. Install of Intake 24. Install reducer and clamps onto the throttle body. 25. Install the hose onto the vent on the intake tube. 26. Install the mass air sensor into the intake tube. 27. Slide the tube into the reducer and line up the bracket with stud, then tighten the clamps at the throttle body. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. Secure the switch to the bracket (not for the 06 Mazda 5 model). Install the crank case vent into the hose on the intake tube. Reconnect the crank case vent. Install the rubber mounting stud into the resonator threaded hole. Install the reducer and clamps onto the cold air tube. From underneath the vehicle install the cold air tube. Slide the cold air tube onto the short ram tube. Secure the bracket to the tuber mounted stud. Install the filter onto the cold air tube from the underneath vehicle. Reconnect the mass air sensor. Reverse the removal process and reinstall the inner fender valance. Reinstall the front tire and torque to factory specs. Slide the vent into the core support and line up the other end with the battery box and secure with plastic rivet. 41. Reconnect the negative battery cable, then reinstall the battery cover. 42. Reinstall the engine cover. Resetting the ECU This is to be completed at your own risk. This procedure will reset the computer so that it may “learn” of your new intake. We are not to be held liable for any mishaps that you may occur while completing this process. • • Disconnect the Negative battery cable for 5 minutes. Reconnect the battery cable and false panel cover.
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 28-02-2011
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Preparation 1. Cover the front seats, floorboards, dash and steering wheel with a clean drop cloth or disposable plastic covers. Note: Always wear eye and hand protection when working with glass. Make sure you have the right glass and moldings and the urethane systems are current. Windshield part numbers are FW2464 and FW2461. 2. Drape the fender with a fender cover and tape up any vulnerable areas on the vehicle to protect against possible damage. Tape up the defroster vents to prevent debris from falling into the openings. 3. Remove the rearview mirror. Tap it upward and slide it off the mirror pad. 4. Remove the windshield-wiper nut covers. 5. Remove the windshield-wiper nuts using a 12-millimeter wrench or socket. Move the wiper arm in an up-and-down motion to break it loose from the post, or use a wiper puller. Note: Wipers can sometimes be hard to remove. Use a wiper puller to avoid stressing the post. 6. The three-sided reveal molding is a wraparound “U” channel type molding. Grasp the corner and separate it from Removal 9. Make sure cutting blades are sufficiently sharp. 10. Before cutting out the windshield, remove contaminants from the glass and pinchweld to prevent contact with the urethane. 11. Use the cutting tools of your choice to remove the glass from the adhesive bead. Note: When using any power tool, use plain water to lubricate the cutting area. Spray the top, sides and bottom; then make your cuts. Caution: Be careful not to hit or cut the gravity stops; mark their location with a marking pencil or molding-retention tape. 12. Take the windshield out of the opening using a set of vacuum cups. Note: Make sure the vacuum cups do not overlap a crack in the glass. 13. Lift the glass and place it on a windshield stand or suitable workstation. Installation 14. After cutting the windshield out, remove contaminants such as dirt, moisture and debris from the pinchweld. Clean the dashboard. 15. Dry fit the new glass to the opening. Attach the three- sided molding to the glass edge. 16. Place your vacuum cups on the new windshield in the appropriate location and set it onto the old urethane. 17. With the windshield resting in the opening, make sure it is in the right spot. 18. Adjust both sides to the correct setting, marking the passenger’s side, then the driver’s side. Lift the glass and place it on a windshield stand or suitable workstation. 19. Follow the urethane manufacturer’s recommendations for installation. 20. Clean the inside of the windshield using a urethane manufacturer-recommended product. Note: Do not touch the bonding area of the windshield after cleaning, prepping or priming it. 21. Wear powder-free Nitrile gloves to keep off chemicals. 22. Apply the glass prep and primer following the urethane manufacturer’s recommendations. 23. Using the tool of your choice, remove the original urethane bead, leaving 1-2 millimeters of existing urethane on the pinchweld. Make sure there are no contaminants and do not touch the pinchweld after prepping the area. 24. Apply the pinchweld primer only to the areas where needed, and follow the urethane manufacturer’s recommenda- tions. Allow preps and primers to dry as recommended by the urethane manufacturer.