Auto Repair Manual Free Download and ReviewsFree download ebook pdf files automotive manual

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Mitsubishi specified certain electrolytic capacitors from 1989 through 1994 made by Rubycon Electric. Here is the most common culprit of ECU trouble: Over time and at repeated elevated temperatures these start to degrade. The liquid electrolyte begins leaking from the seal on the bottom plug of the capacitor. This liquid is very corrosive and conductive. It interacts with the humidity coating on the circuit board causing an array of problems. Among these are: injector trouble, erratic start, stalling, rough idle, check engine light, etc. This leaked substance begins to spread and react with metals in its path. It gradually causes erosion of copper traces and shorts in circuit paths. At first you may notice intermittent problems that occur from this. Most often though, the degrading capacitors continue to operate within tolerance and the damage remains minimal. This is where we want to pull the unit and get busy. If nothing is done, problems surmount. The breakdown of the humidity seal, corrosion and shorting of circuits, and ultimately, the loss of other critical components in the ECU. (i.e. large voltage spikes that cause major damage) all lead up to an untimely demise. At this point you may actually smell something burning inside the unit. (This fried electrical smell is putrid to say the least) The idea though, is to get to the source of the problem before you reach this point. Not to say that it isn’t still repairable. But the longer the problem is ignored, the more difficult a task it will be indeed.

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TROUBLE SHOOTING FUEL/TEMPERATURE GAUGE NOT WORKING Check for blown fuse, faulty voltage limiter and faulty relay. Ensure sending unit connections are clean and tight. Test sending unit for correct operation. Tighten connections in instrument cluster. SPEEDOMETER NOT WORKING Ensure speedometer cable is properly connected and correctly routed. If speedometer pointer and/or odometer still do not work, replace speedometer as an assembly. TACHOMETER NOT WORKING Tachometer is serviced as an assembly. If wiring harness is okay, replace tachometer assembly. WARNING LIGHTS NOT WORKING Test for defective sending unit, burned-out bulb and broken printed circuit. Ensure all connections are clean and tight. TESTING BOOST PRESSURE GAUGE NOTE: Boost pressure gauge testing procedures for Galant are not available from manufacturer.

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Disassembly (Ram-50) 1) Remove both 4WD indicator switches and steel balls. Remove speedometer gear assembly. Remove output shaft cover, gasket, wave spring and spacer. See Fig. 3. Remove rear cover, rear cover gasket and spacer from chain cover. Drive roll pin out of high-low shift fork. 2) Remove 2 seal plugs. Remove 2 poppet springs and steel balls. Shift transfer case to “4WD” and pull high-low shift rail out, in rear cover direction. Remove interlock plunger. Remove pulse generator (if equipped), front output shaft cover and pulse rotor (if equipped). Remove snap ring from rear bearing on output shaft. Remove chain cover, oil guide and side cover. Remove countershaft locking plate. Remove countershaft. 3) Remove countergear, 2 thrust washers, 2 needle bearings and spacer through side cover opening. Remove snap ring, spring retainers and spring from 2WD-4WD shift rail. Remove front output shaft, rear output shaft and chain as assembly. 4) Remove 2WD-4WD shift fork and distance piece. Drive out 2WD-4WD shift rail spring pin. Remove 2WD-4WD shift rail and lug. Remove high-low shift fork and high-low synchronizer sleeve. Remove needle bearing and snap ring from input gear. Remove input gear assembly. 5) If either control shaft or input gear oil seals are to be replaced, drive out roll pin from transmission control change shifter. Separate transfer case from adapter. See Fig. 3. Disassembly (Montero) 1) Remove dynamic damper, 5 detection switches and 3 steel balls. Remove poppet plug, spring and steel ball. Remove speedometer gear assembly. Remove output shaft rear cover, spacers, dust seal guard and oil seals. Front output shaft cover, wave spring and spacer (if equipped). 2) Remove high-low shift rail plug and high-low shift fork spring pin. Shift transfer case to “4WD”. Remove rear cover and high- low shift rail. Remove interlock plunger. Remove rear output shaft (viscous coupling) assembly and center differential assembly. Remove 2WD-4WD synchronizer assembly, chain and front output shaft from transmission as a unit. With White paint make match marks in grooves of 2WD-4WD synchronizer in 3 places. With White paint make match marks on spline projections of 2WD-4WD synchronizer sleeve in 3 places. Refer to match marks during reassembly. 3) Remove snap ring, spring seat, spring, 2WD-4WD shift fork and 2WD-4WD synchronizer sleeve. Remove differential lock hub, oil dam cover and bearing retainer. Remove side cover and gasket. Remove transfer counter gear shaft, transfer counter gear, thrust washer, needle bearings and spacer. Remove transfer drive shaft assembly. Remove high-low shift fork assembly and clutch sleeve. Remove transfer input gear assembly. 4) Remove 2WD-4WD shift lug spring pin, spring, spring retainer 2WD-4WD shift lug and shift rail. Remove input gear oil seal, baffle plate, dust seal guard and front output shaft oil seal. See Fig. 4.

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FLARE INSTALLATION PROCEDURES Step 2: Preparing the Work Area A) Support and remove wheel using jack and jack stands. B) Remove wheel, factory flare, and any wheel well trim within 4” of the rim. Step 3: Fitting Flare to Body Side Molding (Front and Rear) On vehicles with hard rubber body side moldings, it will be necessary to cut either the flares or the moldings. Note: Cutting moldings usually produces better results. Option 1: Cutting Side Molding A) Place flare into wheel well opening and mark a line where flare intersects molding. B) Protect vehicle surface with masking tape and cut molding on marked line. C) Sand molding end with fine grit sandpaper to smooth finish. Option 2: Cutting Flare A) Place flare against molding at point of intersection and trace molding contour on flare. B) Cut flare on marked line. Step 4: Edge Trim Installation (See Illustration #1) A) Remove factory installed edge trim when necessary. B) Peel two to three inches of red vinyl backing away from edge trim tape and affix to flare at one end. (With Adhesive Strip to the inside of flare, See illustration #1) C) Press edge trim into place along edge of flare in one- foot increments, pulling red vinyl backing free as you continue to work your way around the flare. Step 5: Flare Installation (Front) (See Illustration #2) A) Clip and/or tape flare in place on fender and verify correct fit. The inner flare edge should be in contact with the wheel well roll-under flange, and the outer flare edge should conform to vehicle fender contours. See Illustration #2. B) Once flare is positioned properly in wheel well rim, drill and secure flare to fender at location #1 (See Illustration #2) using the kit supplied 9/64” drill bit and a small rivet. Secure flare rear “flat” to fender roll- under with two small rivets in the same manner. Remaining rivets are installed at the locations illustrated.

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Step 1: Lift the car using a lift or jack stands and remove all of the following: – - – Wheels Front Undertray – Use Phillips Head Screw Driver Front Bumper If You Find It Easier To Do So Now, Otherwise, It Can Be Removed Later – Use 10mm Socket and Flat Head Screw Driver Step 2: Remove the two 19mm caliper bolts and washers from the back side of each front caliper. – Use 19mm Socket * Note: The caliper should not move from it’s resting position too much once the bolts are removed, but please be cautious and wary that the caliper may shift slightly due to it’s weight as the bolts are removed. It is also EXTREMELY IMPORTANT to be sure to save the four washers removed in this step. They are a required component used later on during installation. Step 3: Use the supplied 10mm Allen Head bolts, Stainless Steel spacers, the Caliper Ducts, and the washers removed in Step 2 and attach the caliper ducts to the spindle. It is important to assemble these parts in the proper order outlined below: – OEM Washer – Caliper Duct Mounting Hole – Stainless Steel Spacer – 10mm Allen Head Bolt – Use a 10mm Allen wrench to hand-tighten this bolt to the spindle and caliper. Note: Please ensure that the OEM washer is re-used and that it contacts the spindle before the caliper duct. Also, ensure that the caliper duct is positioned so that the Forge logo is facing the front of the vehicle. The caliper ducts ARE NOT side-specific, so either duct can be used on either side of the car. Step 3 cont.: Here is a picture showing the 10mm Allen wrench tightening down the 10mm Allen bolt. Once installed, this is how the caliper duct should look: