Filed Under (Mitsubishi) by admin on 26-12-2010
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Part 1 – Check Alignment and marking for drilling. Picture 1: Remove the plastic cover below the side chassis. Picture 2: Fit the Square fastener at the side extension. Picture 3: At both end of the side extension add 2 nuts as a spacer at the last fastener. Picture 4: Place the side extension to the chassis to check alignment. Picture 5: Use 3 car jacks to hold the side extension. Center jack should place toward the rear. Picture are align with the chassis Picture 9: Make sure no gap is in between the side extension and chassis. Picture 10: You need a crayon. Picture 11: Using the crayon to draw a line at the chassis. Picture 12: Make sure there are no gaps in between, than remove the side extension Picture 13: Prepare the side extension ready with all marker maker on the fastener holder using of double marker maker are advised. Picture 14: Use masking tape to stick over the marker maker Picture 15: Make sure all the masking tape can stick to release the tape from the marker maker. Picture 16: Place the side extension to the chassis with the car jack Picture 17: Between the side extension and chassis please place cardboard. Picture 18: Slowly adjust the car jack and shift the side extension to the line marking. Picture 19: The purpose of placing the cardboard in between the side extension are to form a gap after the side extension has adjust in place.
Filed Under (Mitsubishi) by admin on 26-12-2010
Tags: 2009 mitsubishi lancer ralliart,
body panels,
catalytic converter,
exhaust system,
inlet pipe,
isolator,
magnaflow performance exhaust,
mitsubishi lancer ralliart,
oem system,
pipe assembly,
system temperatures
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Warning: When working on, under, or around any vehicle exercise caution. Please allow the vehicle’s exhaust system to cool before removal, as exhaust system temperatures may cause severe burns. If working without a lift, always consult vehicle manual for correct lifting specifications. Always wear safety glasses and ensure a safe work area. Serious injury or death could occur if safety measures are not followed. Step 1: (Carefully read all instructions before installation) Remove the OEM system by unbolting the flange located behind the catalytic converter and the flange located near the muffler inlet. Carefully remove the OEM system making sure not to damage any of the original mounting hardware or rubber isolators, as they will be needed to install your new MAGNAFLOW system. Step 2: Attach the Inlet Pipe Assembly at the flange junction using the OEM fasteners. Working front to rear install the rest of the new system by locating the hangers into the appropriate OEM isolator and by using the supplied clamps. Step 3: With all components mounted loosely, adjust the system for overall aesthetics and clearance of frame & bodywork. (MAGNAFLOW recommends at least 1/2″ of clearance between the exhaust system and any body panels to prevent heat-related body damage or fire.) Step 4: Once a final position has been chosen for the new system, evenly tighten all fasteners from front to rear. The supplied band clamps must be VERY tight to properly align the pipes and prevent leaks (Approximately 65ft-lbs). U-bolt clamps should be tightened to approximately 30-35ft-lbs. inspect all fasteners after 25-50 miles of operation and retighten if necessary.
Filed Under (Mitsubishi) by admin on 26-12-2010
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WARNINGS AND NOTES 1. Make sure ignition is turned off (dash off). For extra protection, you may disconnect the battery (in the trunk). 2. Make sure all hose clamps are positioned after the bead on the intercooler piping. Failure to do so will result in boost leaks or hoses popping off. SILICONE HOSE C L A M P C L A M P BEAD IN INTERCOOLER PIPE 3. Do not over tighten hose clamps. If you notice distortion of the clamp or tearing of the silicone hose, you’ve gone too tight! 4. After you’ve taken your car for a test drive, check all hose clamps again to make sure they are tight and correctly positioned.INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS INSTRUCTIONS 1. REMOVE RADITOR SHROUD AND AIR INLET – Remove air inlet scoop by unscrewing Phillips head body clips and gently pulling scoop from airbox. – Remove radiator shroud by removing plastic clips with flathead screwdriver. Use care not to break the clips. Once the tab is popped out ½ way, you can remove the both pieces at once by hand. Once all plastic clips are removed, pull the radiator shroud up toward you until it pops out of place. Make sure all clips are removed before pulling too hard. 2. REMOVE 12MM BOLTS SECURING UICP TO RADIATOR SUPPORT 3. LOOSEN HOSE CLAMPS AND REMOVE INTERCOOLER PIPE NOTE: ACCESSING LOWER HOSE CLAMP THROUGH GRILL W/ 10MM SOCKET 4. REMOVE FACTORY INTERCOOLER PIPE BUSHINGS AND INSTALL TO HARMAN INTERCOOLER PIPE 5. INSTALL HARMAN MOTIVE INTERCOOLER PIPE 2.5” Straight Hose 6. REINSTALL RADIATOR SHROUD AND AIR INLET SCOOP START THE CAR AND LISTEN FOR ANY LEAKS. TAKE THE CAR ON A TEST DRIVE THEN RECHECK ALL HOSE CLAMPS.
Filed Under (Mitsubishi) by admin on 26-12-2010
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INSTALLATION 1. Assemble the harness bar support rods as shown below using the provided heim joints and nuts. Leave at least ¼” of thread showing on each heim joint to allow for adjustment during installation. Do not fully tighten the nuts at this time. NOTE: The smaller heim joint has reverse thread. 2. On both sides of the vehicle’s interior, remove the plastic upper seat belt bolt cover and remove the upper bolt as shown here. The factory retaining washer needs to be removed so the factory bolt can be completely removed from the upper mount. NOTE: The factory retaining washer will be re- used in the installation process. 3. Assemble the upper mounting hardware as shown in this picture and bolt the assembly into vehicle. Do not fully tighten the bolt at this time. 4. Remove the factory lower harness bolt cover (rubber) and remove the bolt from the vehicle. Remove the factory retaining washer and remove the bolt from the harness mount. Assemble the lower hardware as shown in this picture. Bolt assembly into the vehicle. Do not fully tighten bolt at this time. 5. Connect the upper support rod mounts to the harness bar using the supplied bolt, washer and nut. 6. Check for proper installation and adjust as necessary. Tighten all bolts and nuts. Replace the lower rubber cover and upper plastic cover. NOTE: The inside of the upper cover needs to be clearanced to allow for proper fit. The finished installation should look like this:
Filed Under (Mitsubishi) by admin on 24-12-2010
Tags: air duct,
air filter,
air intake,
engine harness,
filter fan,
fuel lines,
intake pipe,
intercooler piping,
mitsubishi lancer,
mitsubishi lancer ralliart,
silicone coupler
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1) Remove air duct, battery cover, battery, lower battery tray and silver wiring harness bracket that is mounted with two bolts to
the battery tray. 2) Remove bypass valve along with both tubes connected to it. 3) Remove air intake box and tube. 4) At this point you can now install the air filter fan shield using the supplied M8 bolts. If you are using an OEM or Aftermarket intercooler pipe that still utilizes the mount on the battery tray remove the bolt and install the fan shield with the spacer in between the shield and intercooler pipe tab, tighten it down with the supplied longer M8 bolt. If you are using an Aftermarket intercooler pipe that doesn’t have the mount you will need to use the supplied longer spacer to space the fan shield away from the battery correctly. Refer to picture below. 5) Remove the backing from the battery tray and stick it into place. Then you can set the battery on it and install the battery cables at the angles shown. 6) You can now lay the battery into position and tie it down using the supplied tie down. This can be done using the OEM hook locations. You may have to remove some of the wire tie downs to allow the cables to move with the battery. 7) Install the turbo to intake custom silicone coupler onto the turbo, leave the clamps loose at this time. This coupler is to be routed underneath the fuel lines and engine harness. Be sure to completely seat the coupler onto the turbo.
Install the intake pipe and filter leaving the clamps loose for further adjustment. 9) Now at this time get the tube that connected the bypass valve to the intercooler piping and cut 1 in. off of one end as shown below*. The end that you cut goes to on the bypass valve, the other end to the intake.