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Exhaust System Removal Note: With a used vehicle, we suggest a penetrating spray lubricant to be applied liberally to all exhaust fasteners and al- lowing a significant period of time for the chemical to lubricate the threads before attempting to disassemble. 1. Unbolt the flange located just in front of the rear muffler as shown in. (figure 1) 2. Lubricate all the hangers and rubber isolators. 3. Using a muffler stand or an additional person to hold the rear muffler into position, remove the hangers from the rub- ber isolators and remove the rear muffler from the vehicle as shown. (figure 2) 4. Unbolt the flange located just behind the catalytic converter as shown. (figure 3) 5. Place hardware and gasket to the side for use during the installation of your new exhaust system. Using a muffler stand or an additional person to hold the front muffler assembly into position, remove the bolt from the rubber isolator and remove the front muffler assembly from the vehicle as shown. (figure 4) 1. Using the original hardware and gasket, place the muffler assembly into position as shown. Hand tighten the hardware for now. (figure 5) 2. Place a clamp over the expanded end of the intermediate pipe and set it into position as shown making sure to install the hanger into the rubber isolator. Do Not tighten the clamp. (figure 6) 3. Place a clamp over the expanded end of the tail pipe assem- bly and set it into position as shown making sure to install the hangers into the rubber isolators. Do Not tighten the clamp. (figure 7) 4. Check your exhaust system for proper clearance under the vehicle and also for tip alignment.

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Original Exhaust System Removal Note: With a used vehicle, we suggest a penetrating spray lu- bricant to be applied liberally to all exhaust fasteners and al- lowing a significant period of time for the chemical to lubricate the threads before attempting to disassemble. Lubricate all the hangers and rubber isolators. Place all hardware to the side for installation of your new Borla ex- haust. 2. Remove (2) muffler flange bolts. Keep hardware for instal- lation of your new Borla exhaust. (figure 1). 3. Slide and remove rubber isolators from hangars and remove rear muffler (figure 2). 4. Remove metal spacers in rubber isolators as shown. (figure 3) Borla Performance Rear Section Exhaust System Installation 1. Install muffler assembly into using OE rubber isolators. 2. Using original hardware, re-assemble and hand-torque bolts to 18-22 ft. lbs. torque. (figure 4) 3. Check your exhaust for proper clearance under the vehicle and also for tip alignment. (figures 5, 6, & 7) Start vehicle and check for any leaks. If any leaks are found, determine cause (such as loose hardware or incorrectly posi- tioned clamp) and repair as necessary.

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5. Removal of timing belt front covers (a) Raise the front of the vehicle and support it using properly rated jack stands. It is important for safety reasons to use adequate supporting equipment to prevent injury or damage to the vehicle. (b) Remove the front left wheel. (c) From underneath vehicle, remove inner debris shield from inside fender well. (d) From the engine compartment, remove all drive belts (a/c, alternator/power steering belts), and Figure 1A and 1B the water pump pulley set. (e) Put a jack underneath the engine for support and remove the front engine mount, the a/c idler pulley, and remove the front center cover. (f) From underneath, remove the crankshaft pulley and then remove the front lower cover. 6. Removing the timing belt (a) Rotate the crankshaft so that the number 1 piston is at TDC on compression. Verify that the camshafts are in proper timing for this position. Fig 2A. i) The dowel pins near the center of each gear will close to the 12 o’clock position. ii) The oil pump shaft and crankshaft timing marks are lined up with reference marks on the front engine cover. (1) It is important to examine the oil pump pulley as the mark is not very easily seen (it may be obscured by dirt). The mark is a reverse embossed dot with white paint on it. (b) Loosen the center bolts on both cam gears. i) These bolts are installed at 68 ft-lbs of torque from the factory so do not rely solely on the tension of the timing belt to hold the cam gears in position. ii) The camshafts have hex flats between cylinders 1 and 2. Using an appropriately sized wrench, hold the camshaft at the hex flats as you loosen the cam gear’s center bolt. (c) Remove the timing belt from the two cam gears. This is an appropriate time to replace the timing belt if replacement is due or is close to the replacement interval. (d) Remove the two OE cam gears from both camshafts. (e) After removing the belt align the oil pump sprocket with the previously identified marks on the front of the engine. Fig 2B. i) Remove the plug on the rear side of the engine block and insert an 8mm rod into the hole to lock the pump shaft in position. (1) The oil pump shaft also includes the counter-balance shaft. This shaft needs to be locked in place during the installation of the timing belt.

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LUBRICATION SERVICE INTERVALS Transaxle/Transmission Check fluid level every 12 months or 15,000 miles. Change fluid and filter every 30,000 miles. If vehicle is operated under severe conditions, change fluid more often. If severe darkening of fluid and strong odor are noted, bands should also be adjusted. Transfer Case On 4WD and AWD models, change transfer case fluid every 30, 000 miles. CHECKING FLUID LEVEL Transaxle/Transmission 1) Park vehicle on level area. Ensure oil is at normal operating temperature, parking brake is engaged, and engine is at idle. Move gear selector through each position, stopping briefly at each selection. 2) Place gear selector in Neutral, and clean area around dipstick tube. Ensure fluid level is between lower and upper marks, but never over upper mark, in HOT range. Add or drain fluid if necessary. CAUTION: If severe darkening of fluid and strong odor are noted, change fluid and filter, and adjust bands. Transfer Case (All Others)

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Fitting a Mitsubishi ECU The following steps outline the installation procedure: 1. Remove the factory ECU from the vehicle: Ensure the key is in the OFF position. The factory ECU is located on the left A pillar about 30cm above the floor. Unplug the wiring harness from the factory ECU. Remove the 6mm bolts (10mm socket) that retain the ECU and remove the ECU from the vehicle. DO NOT touch the exposed pins in the factory ECU connector. 2. Remove the factory ECUs circuit board from its enclosure: Ensure you are following the given anti-static guidelines and ARE WEARING A CONDUCTIVE WRIST STRAP connected to a conductive working surface. Using four small flat bladed screwdrivers, carefully pry apart the four plastic lugs retaining the ECUs header plate into the case. Some force may be required to remove the circuit board from the case as it may be partially glued to the inside. Remove the circuit board by removing the retaining screws. Hold it only by the plastic header and place it aside. 3. Connect the ECU USB tuning cable and the expansion loom if required. 4. Fit the Vi-PEC Plug-In ECU, there are several options depending on the vehicle: · EVO IV to VIII – If fitting to a short case, CAREFULLY snap the PCB extension off. It may be necessary to use a sharp knife to first score the break off points. Place the factory ECU in the packaging your Vi-PEC ECU came in for its protection. Carefully fit the supplied aluminium end plate to the enclosure. Make sure the end plate is fitted to allow any cables to exit on the left side of the header. · EVO IX – Place the factory ECU in the packaging your Vi-PEC ECU came in for its protection. Carefully fit the supplied aluminium end plate to the enclosure. Make sure the end plate is fitted to allow any cables to exit on the left side of the header. · All Others proceed to step 5 5. Install the Vi-PEC ECU circuit board into the enclosure, then fit the enclosure into the vehicle. 6. Connect the ECU to the factory wiring loom. 7. Do NOT attempt to start the vehicle. Proceed to read through the remaining sections of this manual first.