Auto Repair Manual Free Download and ReviewsFree download ebook pdf files automotive manual

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In Vehicle Servicing The following services may be completed without removal of the engine from the vehicle. • Removal/replacement of cam belt • Water pump removal/replacement • Oil pump servicing • Intake manifold • Rocker covers • Rocker arm assemblies • Cylinder head removal • Camshafts • Turbocharger 2.2L Engine Disassembly Note: Refer to the service manual for the detailed step-by-step disassembly sequence. The following information addresses special steps only. The 1800cc engine stands 499817000 can be used with adapter RH 498457000 and adapter LH 498457100 to support the 2.2L engine. Remove the engine accessories: i.e. drive belts, alternator, air conditioning compressor, and brackets. HLA Handling Use a small screwdriver to remove the HLA from the rocker socket. Do not damage the o-rings of the machined surfaces when removing the HLAs. To check the HLAs for proper operation, squeeze the HLA between your thumb and finger. The HLA should not compress, it should not be spongy. Place an HLA in a clean 12 mm socket. The socket serves as an oil reservoir. Add engine oil to the socket. Use a small allen wrench or paper clip to depress the check ball. Depress and release the HLA plunger while you hold the check ball open. This purges the air from the HLA and fills the HLA with oil. It usually requires only one stroke to fill the HLA. Store the HLAs in engine oil for later reassembly.

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It may seem obvious, but the first step in the job is to disconnect the battery after recording the customer’s radio station presets. Even a manual transmission has a surprising number of wires attached to and surrounding it. Why take the chance of damaging anything due to an accidental short circuit? Remove the resin ‘pitching stopper’ and its bracket on the transmission. This step is necessary for the engine and transmission to drop far enough to clear the firewall during transmission removal. A special tool (P/N 927670000) is available to support the engine once the transmission has been removed, but you can replace the clutch without this aid. Many manual transmission Subaru vehicles are also equipped with the Hill- Holder system. This system lets the driver remove his right foot from the brake pedal after applying the brakes to stop on an incline of more than three degrees. This prevents ‘rollback’ when engaging the clutch to move the vehicle forward on a hill. The Hill-Holder cable shown here below the conventional clutch cable links the clutch pedal to the Hill-Holder pressure hold valve (PHV). Loosen both cables and remove their bracket from the transmission. Several electrical connectors are located at the top right side of the transmission (neutral position switch, back-up light switch, speed sensor, etc.). The connectors are color-coded, so it’s a simple matter to disconnect them and move them aside. Also remove the upper transmission mounting bolts, assorted brackets, main battery ground cable and the starter motor at this time. This transmission ground cable can easily escape notice. The other end of the cable is unreachable from above the transmission. A transmission case bolt must be removed to remove the ground wire at the transmission, so removing it at the body makes more sense to avoid the risk of a leak. Position the cable out of the way so it doesn’t snag on anything during transmission removal.

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Removal of Factory Intake 1. 2. Turn the ignition OFF and disconnect the vehicle’s negative battery cable. Loosen and remove the two bolts that secure the air inlet duct to the radiator core support, then remove the air inlet duct. Loosen the clamps at the air cleaner assembly and turbo inlet tube, then remove the stock intake tube. Loosen and remove the two bolts that secure the air cleaner assembly. Pull upwards to remove the air cleaner assembly. Using the bolt removed to secure the ABS control bracket. Loosen and remove the two screws that secure the mass air sensor to the air cleaner assembly, then remove the mass air sensor. Raise the vehicle and support with the jack stands, then remove the front passenger side tire. Remove the five plastic push/screw clips that secure the inner wheel house valance. Remove the 6 screw in push clips that secure the air duct to the lower valance, then remove the air duct. Remove the two remaining push clips that secure the lower valance, then pull the valance down. From inside the apron, remove the push clip that secures the apron to the upper fender. Remove the hex nut that secures the air intake resonator to the inner fender. Loosen and remove the second hex nut that secures the air intake resonator from underneath the vehicle. Remove the air intake resonator. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. Install of Intake 16. Install the reducer and clamps onto the turbo and secure. 17. Loosen and remove the hex bolt on the cam cover. 18. Using the provided allen bolts, secure the mass air sensor into the adapter on the intake tube. 19. Using the allen bolts, secure the mass air sensor into the adapter on the intake tube. 20. Slide the intake tube into the reducer and secure the mass air sensor into the adapter on the intake tube. 21. Tighten the clamp on the intake tube. 22. Install the reducer and clamps onto the intake tube. 23. From underneath the vehicle loosen and remove the hex nut that secures the ABS pump to the inner fender. 24. Slide the cold air tube intake tube from underneath the vehicle into the hole in the inner fender, then line up the bracket with the ABS bolts, and tighten with the nut remove. 25. Slide the reducer onto the cold air intake tube. 26. Install the Bomz Filtercharger onto the cold air intake tube and secure with clamp. 27. Reverse the removal process for the plastic wheelhouse valance and air duct with the stock push clips. 28. Reconnect the mass air sensor electrical connection. 29. Reconnect the negative battery cable and double check to make sure everything is tight before starting the vehicle. Resetting the ECU This is to be completed at your own risk. This procedure will reset the computer so that it may “learn” of your new intake. We are not to be held liable for any mishaps that you may occur while completing this process. • • Disconnect the Negative battery cable for 5 minutes. Reconnect the battery cable and false panel cover.

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When removing and/or replacing the fuel injector(s), it’s imperative that the below instructions be strictly followed. Failing to do so may result in damage to the injector(s). Applicability: All Legacy, Impreza and SVX models. Note: Pliers or any other tools not specified in these instructions should not be used under any circumstances to prevent damage to the fuel injector(s). Fuel Injector Removal: 1. Disconnect the fuel pump connector. Start the engine and allow the engine to stall. Crank the engine for five seconds and turn the ignition switch to the off position. 2. Remove the air cleaner upper case, air flow meter and the air inlet boot as an assembly. On SVX vehicles, also remove the power steering hose tiewrap on the right side of the engine. 3. Remove the fuel injector cap(s), being very careful not to misplace the rubber spacer(s) fitted between the cap(s) and the injector(s). The rubber spacer(s) must be reinstalled with the new injector(s). Refer to Fig. 1. 4. Using only your fingers, turn the fuel injector(s) 90 degrees. The fuel injector(s) connectors on both sides of the engine should be pointed toward the front of the vehicle. See Fig. 2.

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Control lockout override via grounding of unused e-brake input Rear camera input switch DISCLAIMER: Anyone following these instructions is doing so at their own risk and agrees to not hold me liable for any damage caused as a result of reproducing my experiences that I am documenting here for your reference only. PART 1: REMOVAL OF BEZEL Subaru’s instructions indicate that the bezel can be removed by hand. No one on any message board seems to be able to do this. The solution many have found is to use a trim removal tool. I bought a cheap one at Wal- Mart and quickly found that any small plastic chisel or rubber-coated screwdriver will do. The trick is to get just enough leverage using the tool from inside the vents to pop off the corners. Using your fingers just isn’t quite enough. As you can see, I did use a cheap trim removal tool, but found using the stubbier end worked better for me. Insert any kind of soft (plastic or rubber) tool with a thin edge into the vent and feel for the lip underneath. The hardest part is to get the willpower to give it a good, firm yank towards you. Every time I pulled off another section, I swore it was going to break in half.