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Much has been written about swapping Suzuki’s G16B 1.6 liter 16-valve engine into the Samurai. It is mechanically very simple (as engine swaps go) but the wiring can be a daunting challenge for many. To date it has been necessary for the DIY builder to perform extensive research, gather all the information they can find, try to make sense of it, and take their best shot (or pay someone that has already done it). There is no one “correct” way to make this engine swap. The variations are nearly endless. Much of it involves personal preference. What is presented here is a process that is known to be successful, along with some of the more familiar options. ALL WIRING SHOULD BE DONE WITH THE BATTERY REMOVED FROM THE VEHICLE 1.1. It is HIGHLY RECCOMMENED that you purchase the appropriate Field Service Manual for your engine model year (either digital or print copy). Though there are only two sections that are relevant to a transplanted engine the information is absolutely invaluable. Much – but not all – of the required Information is also available in most aftermarket vehicle specific service manuals (Haynes, Chilton’s, etc.) The pertinent sections (6 & 8) of the 1996 Tracker FSM may be downloaded for free from Acksfaq.com (donations are appreciated). 1.2. 1992 through 1998 Suzuki/Geo (GM) vehicles with G16B (1.6 liter 16-valve) engines can be identified by the 8th digit in the Vehicle Identification Number. “0” for Suzuki badged vehicles, “6” for Geo’s (“U” indicates an 8-valve 1.6L). 1.3. The most common set-up, and arguably the simplest, mates a donor Tracker or Sidekick engine, with the Samurai 5- spd Manual Transmission. Donor engines with Automatic Transmissions (3 or 4 A/T) are easily rewired to work with the Samurai 5-spd M/T. Specific notations for installing the donor engine with a 3 A/T appear where necessary. The 4 A/T is significantly more complicated and is not included in these instructions. 1.4. It is preferred (but not required) that the ECM and engine be of the same model year. However, as long as the computer has all the necessary inputs and outputs it makes no difference what motor it is physically controlling. It should be noted that OBD1 vehicles (1995 & earlier) are much less complex than OBD2 vehicles (1996 & after). The earlier technology is far easier for the amateur auto electrician to manage. OBD2, being more modern, has nearly twice as many sensors & controls. Properly tuned, OBD2 engines will provide slightly more power, better fuel economy, and cleaner emissions. Replacement parts are also easier to find, but of course, are more expensive.

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NOTE: Samurai & Sidekick 1) Remove rocker cover. Rotate crankshaft until zero degree (TDC) timing mark of timing belt cover is in line with timing mark on crankshaft pulley. 2) Cylinder No. 1 should be at TDC on compression stroke. Remove distributor cap, and ensure rotor is pointed upward at distributor hold-down bolt and to No. 1 terminal of distributor cap. If not as described, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees. 3) Measure valve clearance between adjustment screw and valve stem using thickness gauge. Check intake valve clearance of cylinders No. 1 and 2 and exhaust valve clearance of cylinders No. 1 and 3. 4) Turn crankshaft one complete revolution (360 degrees). Check intake valve clearance of cylinders No. 3 and 4 and exhaust valve clearance of cylinders No. 2 and 4. Ensure clearance is within specification. See VALVE CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS table. 5) If clearance adjustment is necessary, loosen lock nut and turn adjusting screw. After adjusting clearance, tighten adjusting Swift DOHC uses hydraulic lifters. Adjustment is not required. screw lock nut to 11-14 ft. lbs. (15-19 N.m) on Samurai or 90-108 INCH lbs. (10-13 N.m) on Sidekick. On all models, recheck clearance. VALVE CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS TABLE ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡ Application SOHC Engines Samurai, Sidekick 8-Valve TBI & Swift (1) Engine Cold Exhaust ……………………. .006-.008 (.15-.20) Intake …………………….. .005-.007 (.13-.17) Engine Hot Exhaust ……………………. .010-.012 (.25-.30) Intake …………………….. .009-.011 (.23-.27) Sidekick 16-Valve PFI Engine Cold Exhaust & Intake ………….. .0031-.0047 (.08-.12) Engine Hot Exhaust & Intake ………….. .0047-.0063 (.12-.16) DOHC Engine Swift (1) …………………………………. (2) (1) – Swift is available with 1.3L DOHC and SOHC engines. (2) – Hydraulic valve lash adjusters are used. Adjustment is not required. ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡ Swift SOHC 1) Remove rocker cover. Remove right side inner fender apron extension to enable timing marks to be seen. Align crankshaft pulley timing mark with TDC mark on timing belt cover. 2) Remove distributor cap. Ensure rotor is pointing upward toward distributor hold-down bolt and to No. 1 terminal of distributor cap. If not as described, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees. 3) Measure valve clearance between adjustment screw and valve stem using thickness gauge. Check intake valve clearance of cylinders No. 1 and 2 and exhaust valve clearance of cylinders No. 1 and 3. Turn crankshaft one complete revolution (360 degrees). Check intake valve clearance of cylinders No. 3 and 4 and exhaust valve clearance of cylinders No. 2 and 4. 4) Ensure clearance is within specification. See VALVE CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS table. If clearance adjustment is necessary, loosen lock nut and turn adjusting screw. Hold adjusting screw while tightening lock nut to 11-14 ft. lbs. (15-19 N.m). Recheck clearance. In. (mm)

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If your CV is leaking grease (see 1.1) or has oil dripping from it you will need to replace the axle oil seal. To do this you will need to remove the CV joint. It is best to buy a kit that contains new seals and king pin bearings. You may as well replace them all while you have the CV out. 1.1 Leaking CV Removal 1. Loosen the wheel nuts then jack up the vehicle and put axle stands under the axle housing on each side. Remove the road wheels then, remove the disc break calliper buy undoing the two bolts at the back of the calliper. Tie the calliper to the top of the shock. 2. Remove the free wheeling hub outer cover. Undo the outer bolts first and remove the front of the hub. You will then need to remove the C clip (1.3) so you can take of the rest of the hub. 1.2 Remove free wheeling hub 1.3 Remove the C clip and take of the rest of the hub 3. Bend the wheel bearing locking tab and undo the wheel bearing locknuts. 1.4 Remove the wheel bearing lock nuts 4. Undo the four bolts holding the back plate and spindle and take off the back plate. 5. Mark the spincle so you can replace it in the same position. Also mark the king pins so they can also be reinstalled in the same position. Use something that won’t come off when you are cleaning the parts. 1.6 mark spindle and king pins before removal 6. Remove the diff oil but undoing the bottom plug in the diff housing. 7. Take out the split pin in the tie-rod nut remove the nut and separate the tie-rod from the steering knuckle with a wheel puller. 1.8 Separate the tie-rod from the steering knuckle 8. Remove the king pins and make sure you know which one is the top and which one is the bottom. 9. You can know take off the steering knuckle. If you are not replacing the king pin bearings be careful as the bottom bearing will fall out when you take of the steering knuckle. 10. Withdraw the CV and axle out and clean all the old grease off the CV and housing.

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MODEL(S): YEAR: CONDITION: CAUSE: CORRECTION: KIZASHI (A6B424) 2010 (BUILT BETWEEN OCTOBER 13, 2009 TO JUNE 17, 2010) The hinged door on the instrument panel center lower box may not remain closed in the event of a crash. Improper design of the latch mechanism. Please replace the instrument panel center lower box with a new replacement part. This will be performed at no charge to the customer for parts or labor. Repair Instructions NOTICE: NOTE: Resin parts are easily scratched, so to prevent this, the use of vinyl tape, masking tape, shop towels, etc. The illustrations and some steps in these instructions are for models equipped with a CVT and USB socket. The procedure is similar for models equipped with a M/T and/or no USB socket allowing the same instructions to be used. 1. If this is a customer’s vehicle please confirm and record the preset conditions of the clock and audio systems so they can be reset after the repairs have been completed. 2. Apply the parking brake completely. 3. Slide the left and right front seats backward completely. 4. Disconnect the negative (-) cable from the battery. 5. Using the micro flat-blade (pocket) screwdriver with the tip wrapped with vinyl tape, remove the cap from the shifter garnish covering the “manual” shift interlock mechanism. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the cap as it is fragile. If it becomes damaged, replace it with a new one. 6. Use the micro flat-blade (pocket) screwdriver to push the shift interlock release pin and move the shift selector to the “N” position. 7. Open the door of the instrument panel center lower box. 8. Lifting up the front edge of the console rear panel, lift up the rear edge of the black gearshift garnish. 9. There are seven (7) retaining claws that secure the gearshift garnish. These are disengaged in four stages beginning at the rear and moving forward. To disengage the front two points, apply pressure on the garnish pulling slightly back while lifting.

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Monitoring of the duty cycle of the OEM injectors. • Ability to drive more than one injector. • The magnetic pickup will no longer be used for speed sensing. This will allow interfacing to any type of vehicle with an ignition coil. • Addition of Peak and Hold Circuitry to save power and offer better control of injector. Here the two wires (red and green) feed the controller with a frequency from the magnetic pickup in the distributor. This allows the controller to determine the engine speed. Installation Example: Suzuki Swift GTi This photo shows the injector controller mounted in a Suzuki Swift GTi. It is wrapped in foil to reflect heat from the engine bay. This injector setup ensures that fuel properly mixes with the air before it reaches the cylinders. The trigger for the injectors taken from the coil terminal to ensure the injector is fired on each induction stroke. The fuel for the fifth injector can be seen being taken off the fuel rail using a brass T-junction.