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Engine Options for the Samurai There are a number of possibilities for changing the engine in your Samurai, depending on where you live and what you want to accomplish. Suzuki Sidekick or Geo Tracker I (1989-1995) – The block from the 1.6 8-valve Sidekick or Tracker can be swapped in easily. This is by far the simplest upgrade, requiring modified engine mounts, transmission adapter plate, and provision (some sort of lift, or an adaptation from a G12 series engine) for the oil pan. Intake and Exhaust Manifold will fit, and finally the addition of an electronic fuel pump since the 1.6 head does not have lobes on it for the fuel pump. Petroworks can supply almost all necessary parts required for this task. Motors are a little harder to come by though. The next level to this swap would be the use of the Sidekick/Tracker Throttle Body intake system. This is a much more complex task and requires the complete under hood wiring harness, parts of the under dash harness, and computer from a donor car. Modification of the harness is required to install it into the Samurai. TR Also, the Speedometer cluster needs to be modified on the Samurai to add in a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). This is needed by the computer to adjust timing during operation. Suzuki Swift – This is a G13 series engine with a counterbalanced crankshaft, twin overhead cams and fuel injection. One of the easier swaps to make, requiring only some minor wiring changes and a hole in the Samurai’s firewall for the horizontally mounted distributor (this engine was originally designed for a transverse mounting). Suzuki Sidekick or Geo Tracker II (1993-1995) – The motor from these cars are 1.6 16v, multiport fuel-injected. These motors are usually found in 4 door cars and will say “16 Valve” On the valve cover, Timing Belt cover or injector manifold. This is a much more complicated swap and requires a lot of wiring to interface with the Samurai harness.

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Fig. 5: 1. Remove oil felt. Using a screw driver, pry out oil felt. See Fig. 6. 2. Remove key. Using a hammer and punch, drive key from shaft. Disassembly of Compressor See Fig. 7. 3. Remove circlip. Using snap ring pliers, remove circlip. See Fig. 8. 4. Apply compressor oil to inner bore. See Fig. 9. Fig. 6: Removing Oil Felt Fig. 7: Removal of Key from Shaft Fig. 8: Circlip Removal Fig. 9: 5. Remove lip seal using special tool (A). The following explains this removal procedure: a. Fit special tool (A) into the clutch installation boss. See Fig. 10. Compressor Oil Application Special tool (A): 09990-48220 b. Turn special tool (A) until its protrusion engages with the groove provided on lip seal. See Fig. 11. c. Check that special tool (A) goes down slightly when the protrusion and groove are engaged. d. Turn special tool (A) by 30 -60 . e. Pull up on special tool (A) to remove lip seal. See Fig. 12. CAUTION: DO NOT re-use lip seal once it has been removed from the compressor.

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1. Remove the transaxle from the vehicle. 2. Remove the concentric slave cylinder retaining bolts. 3. Disconnect the concentric slave cylinder pipe from the concentric slave cylinder. 4. Remove the bushing from the concentric slave cylinder pipe in the transaxle housing. 5. Remove the concentric slave cylinder pipe. 6. Remove the O-ring and the concentric slave cylinder. Installation 1. Install the concentric slave cylinder and the pipe. 2. After installing the pipe screw provisionally, tighten the concentric slave cylinder retaining bolts. Tighten the concentric slave cylinder retaining bolts to 7 Nm (62 inch lbs.) . 3. Tighten the pipe screw. Tighten the pipe screw to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.) . 4. Install the bushing onto the transaxle housing. 5. Connect the pipe with bushing. 6. Install the transaxle into the vehicle.

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1. Remove the fuel pump fuse. 2. Start the engine and repeat cranking until the remaining fuel in the fuel line is all consumed. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Drain the engine coolant. 5. Remove the engine beautification cover retaining nut and engine beautification cover. 6. Remove the air filter snorkel. 7. Remove the VIS vacuum tank. 8. Disconnect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose. 9. Disconnect the fuel line. 10. Remove the breather hose. 11. Remove the PCV vacuum hose. 12. Remove the air filter outlet hose. 13. 14. 15. 16. Remove the throttle body assembly. Disconnect the charcoal canister purge solenoid connector and hose. Disconnect the Oxygen Sensor(O2S) connector. Disconnect the Manifold Absolute Pressure(MAP) sensor connector 17. Disconnect the Crankshaft Position(CKP) sensor connector. 18. Disconnect the Exhaust Gas Recirculation(EGR) solenoid connector. 19. Disconnect the Camshaft Position(CMP) sensor connector.20. Remove the Intake Air Temperature(IAT) sensor. 21. Disconnect the ignition coil connector. 22. Remove the vacuum hose on the brake booster. 23. Remove the EGR pipe from the intake manifold. 24. Remove the engine coolant temperature sensor.

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IDENTIFICATION Transmission is identified by identification plate attached to transmission case, located on left side, above oil pan. Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) may also be used in identifying transmission. VIN locations are at top left of instrument panel and driver’s-side door post. VIN is used to ensure correct application of component parts and assemblies. DESCRIPTION & OPERATION Automatic transmission provides 3 forward speeds and reverse. Main internal components are; oil pump, Torque Converter w/Clutch (TCC), reverse clutch, 2nd clutch, 3rd clutch, one-way clutch (sprag type), compound planetary gear set, low brake, governor and valve body. See Fig. 1. Gear shifting is controlled by valve body. Components that regulate shifting schedules are; governor, modulator and kick-down valve. TCC is operated by an electric solenoid. TCC solenoid operation depends on signals provided by the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor, brake switch, Throttle Position (TP) sensor, Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and gear position.