Auto Repair Manual Free Download and ReviewsFree download ebook pdf files automotive manual

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Introduction Under certain operating conditions, the mounting area of the driver and/or front passenger sunvisor on the vehicle body may become damaged. If this has occurred, the sunvisor may become loose from the mounting area located on the headliner. To address this condition, newly designed mounting brackets have been made available to reinstall the sunvisors. Follow the procedures in this bulletin to install the mounting brackets. Repair Procedure 1. Remove the affected sunvisor assembly. Refer to the Technical Information System (TIS), applicable model year RAV4 Repair Manual: 2006 (to 01/2006) / 2006 (from 01/2006) / 2007 / 2008 / 2009 / 2010 RAV4: Vehicle Interior – Interior Panels/Trim – “Interior: Roof Headlining: Removal” 2. Straighten the roof sheet metal where the visor clips contact the roof. 3. Apply felt to the roof panel opening for visor as shown. Cut two strips from the felt sheet to the following dimensions: Length: 25 mm (1 in.) Width: 9 mm (3/8 in.) Thickness: 0.5 mm (0.02 in.) 4. Install the front visor support. NOTE Front and rear supports are identical. A. Thread string or thin wire through the opening of the support. B. Insert the support into the roof panel opening and attach the support hook to the front edge of the roof panel opening. NOTE • Hold the string or wire ends when installing to prevent the support from falling into the body. • Move the connector toward the rear of the vehicle to widen the opening. C. Attach felt between the support and the roof panel to hold the support in place. Cut two strips from the felt sheet to the following dimensions: Length: 25 mm (1 in.) Width: 5 mm (3/16 in.) Thickness: 0.5 mm (0.02 in.) D. Remove the string or wire from the support.

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Introduction The 2011 model year Camry is equipped with a direct-type Tire Pressure Warning System (TPWS). Each tire (except the spare tire) has a tire pressure warning valve/sensor that measures tire pressure data. The data is transmitted to the Tire Pressure Warning System antenna/receiver and then to the Tire Pressure Warning System ECU. During Pre-Delivery Service (PDS), the tire pressure warning valves/sensors must be activated for Japan-built vehicles by following the activation procedure in this TSB. NAP-built vehicles do not require activation, but both Japan-built and NAP-built vehicles require the TPWS to be initialized by following the initialization procedure in this TSB. Initialization Procedure NOTE Perform the following initialization procedure for BOTH NAP-built and Japan-built vehicles. 1. Cycle the ignition switch to the “IG–ON” mode and connect TIS techstream. 2. Adjust all tires (except the spare tire) to the standard tire in?ation pressure, as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label located inside the driver’s door jamb and con?rm that the Low Tire Pressure Warning Light is OFF. NOTE To adjust tire pressure correctly when outside temperature is signi?cantly colder or warmer than shop temperature. Follow the procedures outlined in the Tire In?ation Pressure Compensation and Adjustment service bulletin (T-SB-0345-08). NOTE Adjust the tire pressure when the tires are cold. NAP-built: Remove the ID number labels that are attached to each wheel and discard.

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Selector Lever Cable Vehicles Equipped with a 6R60 Transmission Removal All vehicles 1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02. 3. With the selector lever in PARK, disconnect the selector lever cable from the selector lever. Vehicle equipped with a 6R60 transmission 6. Remove the cable shield by prying on the shield closest to the boot, then sliding the shield away from the boot. 4. Disconnect the selector lever cable from the selector lever housing. 7. Unlock the lock tab and disconnect the selector lever cable end from the transmission manual lever. 5. Pull the cable and grommet through the floorpan. 8. Disconnect the selector lever cable from the bracket and remove the cable. Vehicles equipped with a 5R55S transmission 9. Remove the cable shield by prying on the side of the shield closest to the boot, then sliding the shield away from the boot. 10. Unlock the lock tab and disconnect the selector lever cable end from the transmission manual lever. 11. Disconnect the selector lever cable from the bracket and remove the cable. Installation Vehicles equipped with a 6R60 transmission 1. Install the selector lever cable into the bracket. 2. Connect the selector lever cable end onto the transmission manual lever and lock the lock tab. 3. NOTE: If the shield is loose, install a new shield. Install the cable shield. Vehicles equipped with a 5R55S transmission 4. Install the selector lever cable into the bracket. 5. Connect the selector lever cable end onto the transmission manual lever.

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GEAR NOISE Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubricant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing not having the proper offset and squareness. Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed range. The noise can also occur during a specific type of driving condition. These conditions are acceleration, deceleration, coast, or constant load. When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then accelerate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes greatly: Check for insufficient lubricant. Incorrect ring gear backlash. Gear damage. Differential side gears and pinions can be checked by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehicle turns. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snapping or a knocking noise. BEARING NOISE The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound. Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differential. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the source. Worn or damaged differential bearings usually produce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differential bearing noise is also constant and varies only with vehicle speed. Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle. Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right. This will load the bearings and change the noise level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph. LOW SPEED KNOCK Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock. VIBRATION Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually caused by a: Damaged drive shaft. Missing drive shaft balance weight(s). Worn or out-of-balance wheels. Loose wheel lug nuts. Worn U-joint(s). Loose/broken springs. Damaged axle shaft bearing(s). Loose pinion gear nut. Excessive pinion yoke run out. Bent axle shaft(s). Check for loose or damaged front-end components or engine/transmission mounts. These components can contribute to what appears to be a rear end vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets and drive belts. All driveline components should be examined before starting any repair. DRIVELINE SNAP A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by: High engine idle speed. Transmission shift operation. Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts. Worn U-joints. Loose spring mounts. Loose pinion gear nut and yoke. Excessive ring gear backlash. Excessive side gear to case clearance. The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be determined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in isolating the source of a noise.

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Removal NOTE: Removal of the vertical EGR cooler is not required to service the thermostats. 1. Remove the upper cooling fan shroud. For additional information, refer to Cooling Fan Shroud — 6.4L Diesel, Upper in this section. 2. Remove the degas bottle. For additional information, refer to Degas Bottle — 6.4L Diesel in this section. 3. Using a mirror, find the end of the upper radiator hose spring clip. Remove the spring clip, disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing and position the upper radiator hose aside. 4. Remove and discard the nut and the vertical EGR cooler lower clamp. 5. Remove the bolt and the vertical EGR cooler lower bracket. 6. NOTE: Vertical EGR cooler removed from art for clarity. Disconnect the wiring from the heater return tube. 7. Remove the 2 bolts and position out the LH heater return tube. • Remove and discard the O-ring seal. 8. NOTE: The 6.4L diesel engine uses 2 thermostats. Remove the 4 bolts, the collar and the thermostat housing. • Lift the bottom of the collar up and rotate toward the engine to remove. 9. NOTICE: If the thermostats are contaminated with engine oil, new thermostats must be installed. Reusing a thermostat that has been exposed to engine oil may result in engine overheating. Remove the thermostats and the gasket from the thermostat housing. • Discard the gasket. Installation 1. Install a new gasket and the thermostats into the thermostat housing. 2. Install the thermostat housing, the collar and the 4 bolts. • Tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in). 3. NOTE: Vertical EGR cooler removed from art for clarity. NOTE: Install a new O-ring seal. Install the LH heater return tube and the 2 bolts. • Tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in). 4. Connect the wiring to the heater return tube. 5. Position the lower vertical EGR cooler bracket and loosely install the bolt. 6. Install a new vertical EGR cooler lower clamp. Tighten the clamp nut in 3 stages. • Stage 1: Tighten the nut to 10 Nm (89 lb-in). • Stage 2: Loosen the nut 720 degrees (2 complete turns). • Stage 3: Tighten the nut to 8 Nm (71 lb-in). 7. Tighten the lower EGR cooler bracket bolt. • Tighten to 62 Nm (46 lb-ft). 8. Connect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing. Install the spring clip. • Verify the spring clip is correctly seated. 9. Install the degas bottle. For additional information, refer to Degas Bottle — 6.4L Diesel in this section. 10. Install the upper cooling fan shroud. For additional information, refer to Cooling Fan Shroud — 6.4L Diesel, Upper in this section.