Auto Repair Manual Free Download and ReviewsFree download ebook pdf files automotive manual

download
DESCRIPTION Some customers may complain of a loud, beeping noise when placing small objects on the passenger front seat such as a briefcase or laptop computer. The noise occurs after placing vehicle in drive and exceeding a speed of 12 mph. The noise may be due to the seat belt minder. The seat belt minder is a supplemental warning to the seat belt warning function established for North American specification vehicles. This feature provides an additional reminder to the passenger that the passenger’s seat belt is not fastened, by intermittently emitting a beep sound and flashing the seat belt warning light in the instru- ment cluster. The seat belt minder can be deactivated and restored again if the customer wishes. The following information is included in the Owner’s Manual:LONG-TERM DEACTIVATION To deactivate belt minder long-term, instrument cluster configuration will be changed using WDS. If belt minder is deactivated long-term, it will remain deactivated until it is restored using WDS. NOTE: Long-term deactivation cannot be canceled by turning ignition switch to OFF/ON or by disconnecting battery. To deactivate belt minder long-term using WDS version B37 or higher: 1. Identify vehicle, verify “Vehicle Specification” recognition screen information. 1511a 2. Is vehicle equipped with DSC? Select “NO”, then press Tick.

download
DESCRIPTION Some vehicles may experience a body vibration when driving approximately 55mph. This symptom is due to the characteristics of the No. 3 & No. 4 engine mounts. Modified No. 3 & No. 4 engine mounts have been established for service only. Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure. REPAIR PROCEDURE IMPORTANT NOTE: • This repair should only be performed if all tires and rims are confirmed to be in balance and all suspension components are in proper working condition. • Notify customers that use of the modified mounts will reduce vibration at cruising speed but may increase vibration at idle. NOTE: Because idle vibration may increase, it is highly recommended to continue using mass production mounts for all other service concerns. 1. Verify concern. 2. Replace the No. 3 & 4 engine mounts with service parts according to the appropriate Workshop Manual section 01-10 ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION. 3. Center the new engine mounts as outlined in ENGINE MOUNT CENTERING PROCEDURE. 4. Verify repair. ENGINE MOUNT CENTERING PROCEDURE No. 1, No. 3 and No. 4 Engine Mount Adjustment 1. Warm up the engine. 2. Raise and support vehicle on a hoist. 3. Remove engine under cover. 4. Lower the vehicle until the front tires lightly touch the ground. 5. Secure the engine and transaxle using an engine jack and attachment as instructed in No.3 Engine Mount And No.4 Engine Mount Rubber Installation Note in appropriate Workshop Manual, section 01-10 MECHANICAL. 6. Remove two bolts from No. 3 engine mount bracket. REMOVE THE BOLTS 7. Lift engine using jack until No.3 engine mount is lifted slightly from vehicle body. NOTE: • Do not raise engine too much or A/C pipe damage may occur. 8. Move the engine mount rubber or engine until installation hole on the vehicle body aligns with hole in the engine mount bracket. ENGINE MOUNT BRACKET 1532c SHOWN BEFORE ALIGNING THE HOLES SHOWN AFTER ALIGNING THE HOLES 9. Lower the jack and tighten bolts on No. 3 engine mount bracket. Tightening torque: 55.0-77.3 ft-lbf (74.5-04.9 N.m) NOTE: 10. With engine supported as described in STEP 5, remove four (4) nuts and two (2) bolts from No. 4 engine mount top plate. Remove top plate. NOTE: 11. Lift engine again using jack until No.4 engine mount is lifted slightly from vehicle body. NOTE: 12. With top plate of No. 4 engine mount removed, move engine mount bottom plate or engine until all four (4) installation studs on the vehicle align with the engine mount holes. • Do not allow the engine mount bracket to be misaligned. • To access the mount, remove battery box. • Do not raise engine too much or A/C pipe damage may occur. ALIGN THE 4 STUDS IN THE PLATE HOLES 13. Place top plate back on and tighten No. 4 engine mount bracket nuts and bolts to torque indicated. Tightening torque: A.32.5-45.0 ft-lbf (44.0-61.0 N.m) B.61.1-86.7 in-lbf (6.9-9.8 N.m) TIGHTEN BOLTS IN SEQUENCE SHOWN 1532e 14. Lift engine again using jack and loosen the two bolts on the No. 1 engine mount rubber until slightly loose on the No. 1 engine mount rubber.

download
Brake caliper housing with integral parking brake on the rear axle. To ensure that the parking brake works perfectly, when a new brake caliper is fitted, and every time the brake pads are replaced the piston must be adjusted as described below: Removal: Release / unclip the handbrake cable Remove screw plug (a) – see Fig. 1 Slacken the hexagon socket screw (Fig. 2). Withdraw the piston until it stops moving. Installation: Screw in the hexagon socket screw in a clockwise direction (Figure 3) until the brake shoes touch the brake disc and the brake disc becomes difficult to turn. Then slacken the adjuster screw by one third to half of a turn (Brake disc will turn easily – see Fig. 4). Screw in and tighten screw plug (1) – Fig. 5. Attach brake cable and adjust it in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

download
Suggested Tools: Floor Jack Jack Stands (2) Sockets: 12mm, 14mm, 15mm Socket Extensions Spring Compressor Installation Steps – FRONT SPRINGS 1. Jack the front of the car up, and support with the two jack stands. 2. Remove both front wheels from the vehicle. 3. Using a 15mm socket, remove the bolt from the lower tie arm: 4. Using a 12mm socket, remove the bolt holding the brake line in place: 5. Using a 15mm socket, remove the bolt from the lower strut clamp. 6. Using a 14mm socket, remove the bolt from the lower front sway bar linkage. 7. Support the bottom of the axle so the strut does not fall down during the next step. 8. Remove the 3 14mm strut mount bolts from the top of the strut tower, under the hood. 9. The strut/spring combo can now be removed from the vehicle. Use the spring compressor to allow the removal of the stock spring from around the strut. You will want to space the spring compressor at least 3 coils between the upper and lower “hooks” of the compressor to make sure you compress the spring enough. 10. Safely remove the compressed spring from around the stock strut and uncompress the spring slowly and evenly. Repeat steps 3-10 on the other side of the car. Installation of Aftermarket Springs 11. Compress the new spring and place over the stock strut. 12. Install the stock strut/spring “Cap” and make sure to line up one of the upper boltholes with the “bracket/clamp” plate on the bottom of the strut. This is key, as the strut will not reinstall if not done properly! a. Torque the nut onto the center strut bolt as much as possible, using a pair of pliers to hold the center post still and a wrench to turn the nut. If you don’t hold the center post still, it will spin with the nut as you get closer to the bottom. You should have 2-3 threads showing if you have tightened down all the way. b. Slowly uncompress the spring and make sure everything remains lined up, including the bottom of the spring. 13. Set the wishbone on the axle. 14. Insert the strut into the car then secure the top (3), 14mm bolts through the top of the strut tower. 15. Insert the bottom of the strut into the wishbone making sure the bottom of the strut lines up properly.

download
Step 1: I began by removing the two (four screws for those who have not modified their hood open latch, see photo (1) screws on the panel under the steering column. Be careful when pulling the panel out because you can break the spring clips that hold the panel in at the top. Photo 1: Hood Latch Section Removed. Step 2: Now that the lower panel is off I removed the Lower Dash Trim Panel Screws and the Radio Bezel Screws indicated by yellow arrows. Also take note in the picture the blue arrow indicating the Hood Latch still in place – no need to remove those P.I.A. screws. Step 3: Now I removed the Dash Trim Panel Upper Screws as indicated by the yellow arrows. Step 4: Next I carefully removed the radio bezel first and then gently squeezed the Dash Trim Panel out over the column. The only way to make that easier is to loosen the steering column bolts and lower the column a little. When you get it out you need to unplug the Headlight and Dimmer Switches as shown. Step 5: Now I removed the 4 screws holding the Instrument Panel in place. Step 6: Now slide the Instrument Panel (IP) forward, pulling the left side out first. This will give you access to the back side so you can remove the plugs from the back of the IP – on my 95 there are three, two white and one black – see the photo. Step 7: Now that the IP is out of the truck you need to remove the IP Bezel. This requires the removal of (7) torx drive screws as indicated in the photo. Screws Bezel Off Step 8: Now we have access to the gauges. To remove the Speedometer you need to gently pry up and remove the gauges on either side of the Speedometer. Then gently pry up and remove the Speedometer. Here is the Speedo out . . . Step 9: Now turn the speedo over and place it face down on a soft towel or rag to protect the gauge face and needles. You will notice I did not do this as I took my time and was careful not to damage anything on the front. This photo shows you the Odometer/Trip Meter Motor installed in the back of the Speedo. To remove the motor gently twist it in a clockwise fashion and it will lift out of the socket. When trying to remove the motor you may either have to depress or lift up on the plastic tabs. Then unplug the leads as shown in this picture.