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Coolant loss through the water pump bearing seal is commonly caused by a faulty cooling system pressure cap. With certain designs of the plastic pressure cap, if the cooling system overheats distortion of the pressure relief valve in the cap can cause the valve to stick and result in excessive pressure in the cooling system. It is recommended that the coolant pressure cap is always checked for correct operation, prior to the fitment of a new water pump. Thermostat Testing In order to confirm if the thermostat is operating as required, the correct testing procedure should be adopted. Equipment required : 1) A container of undiluted anti-freeze mixture, to allow the temperature of the liquid to be raised above boiling point. (DO NOT use plain water). 2) A suitable heating element to raise the temperature of the liquid. 3) An accurately calibrated thermometer, with a range suitable for the thermostat to be tested. Testing Lower the thermostat into the container of anti-freeze, along with the thermometer, and heat the liquid slowly to the temperature marked on the thermostat, e.g 88 degrees, whilst agitating the thermostat. Let the temperature remain stable for one minute, then check for initial opening of the thermostat valve, Note: The valve will only just crack open at this temperature. Increase the temperature of the liquid to at least 14 degrees above the initial opening temperature, e.g.102 degrees, again allow one minute, then check the valve is fully opened. Allow the liquid to cool to below the initial opening temperature, then check that the valve is fully closed. Opening and fully open temperatures should be within plus or minus 2 degrees of those stated A build up of sediment coating on the thermostat can adversely effect the performance of the thermostat.

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The above application is prone to the timing belt teeth lifting off the belt in service due to operating the belt with insufficient tension. The following instructions have been produced to assist in the fitting of your new timing belt, giving simple hints and tips, which should help avoid problems caused by adopting an incorrect fitting / adjustment procedure. For instructions for the removal of the engine components required to gain access to the timing belt, please refer to the vehicle workshop manual. Note:- Incorrect tension of the timing belt, can lead to the teeth lifting from the belt, resulting in belt failure, and subsequent major engine damage. Special Tools Required: 1) Timing belt tension gauge, (accurately calibrated), Part No’s: either Rover KM4088 or Borroughs BT33-86F 2) Two 8mm Allen keys (for tensioner adjustment) 3) Short length of round steel bar (for flywheel timing location) Fitting Procedure: 1) Before the old timing belt is removed, the crankshaft should be rotated clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the edge of the metal bracket, which forms part of the lower timing belt cover (See I). To lock the crankshaft in this position, which is 90 degrees before top dead centre, insert a steel rod of the correct diameter into the hole on the gearbox / engine adaptor plate, positioned on the front facing lower edge of the cylinder block (See diagram B), and locate with the corresponding hole in the flywheel. The timing marks on the camshaft gears should now be aligned at the 3 o’clock position for the left hand gear, and the 9 o’clock position for the right hand gear (See II). Undo the timing belt tensioner Allen bolt and remove tensioner. The old timing belt can now be removed (See III). Check the condition of the geared teeth on the camshaft, crankshaft, and water pump drives. Check the tensioner, water pump, and idler bearings. Fit the new timing belt over the drive gears, ensuring the timing marks set at ‘I’and‘II’ have not moved. Refit the tensioner using the anti-slip washer ‘IV’ supplied with the new timing belt. The anti-slip washer should be fitted between the tensioner and the backplate, with the abrasive side facing towards the tensioner. Note: A new anti-slip washer must always be fitted. Non modified vehicles will not have the anti-slip washer fitted. Rotate the tensioner, using the Allen key drive to set the initial pre-load tension, sufficient to prevent the timing belt from slipping over the toothed drives, then tighten the Allen bolt to 45Nm.

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After examining the fuel pumps returned under claim for the above vehicles, it has been found that a high percentage of returns have no operating fault found with them. The normal complaint is “not pumping”, or “fuel starvation”. In some cases the fault may be cured when a new fuel pump is fitted, but returns shortly afterwards. There are two common causes of these symptoms on the vehicle, besides the fuel pump: 1) The Rubber Fuel Supply Pipe This may be perished or weakened, resulting in a partial or total collapse of the internal bore, restricting the fuel flow. The perishing of the pipe can also lead to air leaks on the suction feed to the fuel pump, so that the pump sucks air as well as fuel, reducing the lift efficiency of the fuel pump. 2) The In-Line Fuel Filter The filter should be changed at intervals of 20,000miles (32,000Km). Failure to do so will result in a build up of sediment particles blocking the filter, reducing the fuel flow. This is especially so on older vehicles where corrosion takes place within the fuel tank and metal feed pipes. In order to ensure that the fuel feed system operates at its full potential, it is recommended that both of the above items are checked, and/or replaced, before fitting a new fuel pump.

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Removal of Factory Shifter Start by parking the car on level ground and placing chocks in front and behind one of the car’s rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling. Place the car in neutral with the parking brake disengaged. From inside the car, remove the shifter knob, boot, and trim panel around the shifter. Gently pull up on the outside of the trim, the clips will come undone one by one. Once the panel is unclipped, unscrew the knob, with boot and trim panel attached, from the lever and remove the assembly as one piece. Figure 1 indicates where to begin unclipping the panel. Next remove the trim piece, in front of the parking brake lever and cupholders, by gently pulling up on it to release the clips holding it in place. Then disconnect the three electrical connectors connected to it. Figure 2 indicates the panel to remove and see figure 3 for the connectors to disconnect. Also pull the parking brake lever boot over the lever to gain more access to the center console by gently pinching the base of the boot trim to release the clips. Now remove the two kick panels on the sides of the center console to gain more access to the shifter assembly. Remove the two exposed Phillips head plastic clip screws and clips, then gently pull outward on the rear of the panels to remove the three additional spring clips on each panel. See Figure 4. With the panels removed, unscrew the two Torx head screws securing the center console to the dash assembly. Then slide the front seats forward, as far as they will go, to remove the clips securing the center console in the rear. See Figures 5 and 6. Now, gently, lift up on the center console and slide it back an inch or so. To extract the shifter assembly, remove the four 10mm head nuts on the corners of the shifter base and disconnect the shift cables. The rear studs can be seen in figure 7. The front nuts were exposed after removing the kick panels. To remove the shift cables, use a screwdriver, or similar tool, to gently pop the levers off the ball studs on the shifter levers. See figure 8. Now lift up the shifter assembly and slide it back a bit. Using a screwdriver, or similar tool, GENTLY pry out the shift cables from the shifter base (see figure 9). Now turn the shifter assembly 90 degrees and remove the complete assembly from the car out through the space you made between the center console and dash. Note: The shifter base is made from plastic and will crack or break if not gently pryed on. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Installation of the Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Assembly To install the shifter assembly follow steps 1-7 in reverse. Note: Before you have completely finished assembling the car be sure to check operation of the shifter by rowing the lever through all the gears to ensure function is correct. 8.

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Introduction Some customers may complain about one of the following conditions: S Grinding during shifting S Difficulty in engaging or releasing 4WD low S Uncomfortable foot or leg position with clutch pedal fully depressed The clutch pedal assembly and the carpeting have been changed to improve the clutch pedal feel and operation. Repair Procedure A Carpet Modification 1. Remove the front door scuff plate LH. Disengage the 9 claws and remove the front door scuff plate. 3. Remove the cowl side trim board LH. A. Remove the clip. B. Disengage the 2 clips and remove the cowl side trim board. 4. Cut the carpet felt backing (padding). A. Turn over the left front portion of the floor carpet. B. Mark the position where the foam front floor pad is located before removing. NOTE: S Color of previous front floor pad (P/N 58571–04060): Cream Yellow S Color of NEW front floor pad (P/N 58571–04070): Black C. Remove the foam front floor pad from the backside of the floor carpet. D. Cut the felt padding on the backside of the floor carpet without cutting the carpet using the carpet knife adjusted only to the depth of the felt padding. Cut the felt padding in the shape shown below. 5. Replace the front floor pad. A. Clean all residue from the backside of the carpet where the floor pad was located. B. Attach the NEW front floor pad to the backside of the floor carpet. C. Confirm that the square raised section on the foam pad is in the same position as the original to ensure proper alignment. 6. Cut the dash panel insulator. Dash Panel Insulator 7. Return the carpet to its former position. 8. Go to Repair Procedure B, “Clutch Pedal Replacement.” Clutch Pedal Replacement 1. Record all radio presets before starting. 2. Disconnect the negative (–) battery terminal cable. 3. Remove the clutch pedal sub–assembly. NOTE: Steps 3A – 3B can be skipped if Repair Procedure A was just performed. A. Remove the front door opening trim LH (scuff plate). B. Remove the cowl side trim board. C. Remove the instrument panel finish panel lower No. 1. E. Remove the turnover (compression) spring. F. Remove the bolt attached to the instrument panel reinforcement assembly. G. Remove the clutch pedal sub–assembly. a. Remove the bolt and nut. b. Remove the clutch pedal from the clutch pedal support.