Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 05-03-2011
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1) Remove covers on both sides of hatch. (below) 2) Use a 10mm socket (with extension) to remove the nuts that secure the rear tail lamps. (right) 3) Remove both of the rear tail lamps. This may require a small amount of force as there are plastic ball/socket joints that hold the lamps in place. Once the lamps are free, disconnect the wiring harnesses from the bulb sockets. (right) 4) Use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the large fasteners that secure the rear bumper underneath the car. They are somewhat difficult to remove. (left) 5) Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the screws that secure the rear bumper to the fenders. The screws are just above the wheel where the rear bumper meets the fender. (right) 6) Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the screws that secure the rear bumper to the wheel well liner. The screws are underneath the car at the very rear of the wheel wells. (left)
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 05-03-2011
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ORIGINAL REAR STABILIZER REMOVAL 1. Remove the following parts in the order indicated in the figure. REAR STABILIZER INSTALLATION Vehicle front Rear stabilizer installation 1. Align with the direction and shape of the standard stabilizer, and then install. Vehicle front Bushing installation 1. Install the bushings so that they are aligned with the stop flanges. Stop flange Bushing Incorrect angle Correct angle Stabilizer control link installation 1. Install the stabilizer control link at the proper angle as shown in the figure. CAUTION • Be sure to install the stabilizer control link in the proper position. If it is not installed properly, the stabilizer control link may interfere with peripheral components when driving, causing damage to each other. Removed parts reinstallation 1. Reinstall the parts removed in section [3] in the reverse or order of removal.
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 05-03-2011
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Rear spoiler drilling procedure 1. Cut template ? along the dotted line using scissors. 2. Attach template ? to the trunk lid / liftgate using tape, aligning it with the line just before the trunk lid / liftgate curves. 3. Punch the trunk lid / liftgate through the center of the crosshairs on template ?. (2 locations on each side) CAUTION • Do not punch the trunk lid / liftgate hard, otherwise it may deform. 4. Remove template ? from the trunk lid / liftgate. 5. Drill out the punched points using a 3mm drill bit. 6. Enlarge 3mm holes to the following size using an appropriate drill bit. 3mm?9mm (2 locations) CAUTION • The drill bits are extremely sharp. Use care when handling the bits to prevent injuries. • When drilling, wrap the drill with adhesive tape to prevent damage to the vehicle. 7. Remove burrs completely from around the back of the holes using a round file. 8. Using IPA (Isopropyl alcohol) , remove grease from around the holes and apply touch-up paint for rust prevention. CAUTION • Completely remove particles from the trunk and cabin, otherwise the particles may rust the body or cause abnormal noise. Stay damper removal / installation WARNING • Removing the trunk lid / liftgate without supporting it can be dangerous. The trunk lid / liftgate may fall and injure you. Open the trunk lid / liftgate fully and support it before removing the stay damper. Always perform these procedures together with at least another person. 1. Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the stay damper bands (2 each side). 2. Remove the stay damper from the body and trunk lid / liftgate. 3. Install stay dampers (LH/RH) ? and ? of the accessory kit parts. NOTE • Remove and install the stay dampers one by one. • The figures are for the LH side. For RH side, perform the procedure in the same way as the LH side. • The removed stay dampers are not used for this accessory.
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 05-03-2011
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Open door and lower window. Remove two screws behind door handle. Remove screw from lower left corner of door. Pull window control panel out from door panel. Remove screw from center of door panel. 6. Lift door panel away from door and pass window control panel through opening in center of door panel. 7. Remove screws around speaker. Remove speaker from door and disconnect speaker wire. 8. Disconnect mirror wire harness from inside door. 9. Peel off foam insulation from corner of door. 10. Remove three mirror mounting nuts from corner of door and remove mirror housing assembly.
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 05-03-2011
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Install: 30-1hr (Removing Intake Resonator) Cost: $0 Pro: Less intake restriction, CAI preparation Cons: N/A You can remove your stock intake\’s resonator to produce a stronger growl. This does not exactly make any power, but it prepares you for the stage 2 modifications. If you plan to just replace your stock air panel filter, then I advise you to do this step as well. You don’t need the intake resonator for a dealer to do engine work/diagnosis.Install: 5-10min (remove the 4 clips on the air box, lift up, remove stock filter, replace with new) Cost: $40-60 Pros: Better mileage and engine efficiency Cons: N/A Replacing the stock paper air filter with a K&N panel filter will let the engine ingest more air than the stock filter due to the less restriction provided by the K&N. Note: If you would like to go with an aftermarket later on, it would be advisable to skip this step of your modification process.