Auto Repair Manual Free Download and ReviewsFree download ebook pdf files automotive manual

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Some customers may complain about a “squeak” or “creak” noise when depressing or releasing the clutch pedal. The clutch master cylinder clevis assembly has been improved to eliminate this condition. Repair Procedure 1. Record all radio presets before starting. 2. Disconnect the negative (–) battery terminal cable. 3. Remove the clutch pedal sub–assembly. A. Remove the front door opening trim LH (scuff plate). B. Remove the cowl side trim board. C. Remove the instrument panel finish panel lower No. 1. D. Remove the driver’s side Junction Block. E. Remove the turnover (compression) spring. F. Remove the bolt attached to the instrument panel reinforcement assembly. G. Remove the clutch pedal sub–assembly. a. Remove the bolt and nut. b. Remove the clutch pedal from the clutch pedal support. 4. Remove the clutch pedal spring holder from the clutch pedal support. 5. Remove the clutch pedal pad. 6. Remove the two (2) clutch pedal bushes from the clutch pedal. 7. Remove the clutch pedal shaft collar. 8. Using needle–nose pliers, remove the No. 1 cushion from the clutch pedal. 9. Install the clutch pedal No. 1 cushion on the NEW clutch pedal sub–assembly. NOTE: Install parts on the NEW clutch pedal sub–assembly BEFORE installing in the vehicle. 10. Install the clutch pedal shaft collar. A. Apply MP grease to the clutch pedal shaft collar. B. Install the clutch pedal shaft collar onto the clutch pedal. 11. Install the clutch pedal bushes. A. Apply MP grease to the two (2) NEW bushes. B. Install the two (2) bushes onto the clutch pedal. 12. Install the clutch pedal pad. 13. Install the clutch pedal spring holder. A. Apply MP grease to the contact surface of the clutch pedal spring holder. B. Install the clutch pedal spring holder. 14. Remove the clevis sub–assembly. A. Measure length “A” of the clutch master cylinder. a. Measure length “A” between the lock nut and the thread end with a ruler. b. Record length “A”. B. Remove the clevis sub–assembly from the master cylinder. a. Loosen the lock nut. b. Rotate and remove the clevis sub–assembly. 15. Install the NEW clevis sub–assembly. A. Rotate the lock nut to match length “A”. B. Rotate and install the NEW clevis sub–assembly to contact the lock nut. C. Tighten the lock nut and torque to specification. Torque: 11.8 NSm (120 kgfScm, 8.7 ftSlbf) D. Apply MP grease to the ball end of the clevis sub–assembly where it will contact the clutch pedal. 16. Install the NEW clutch pedal sub–assembly. A. Install the clutch pedal onto the clutch support with the bolt and nut. Torque: 34 NSm (347 kgfScm, 25 ftSlbf) HINT: Install the bolt from the left side of the vehicle. B. Apply MP grease to the clutch pedal sub–assembly where the clevis sub–assembly contacts the clutch pedal. NOTE: Failure to apply grease to the clevis and clutch pedal sub–assemblies could cause the noise to return. C. Tighten the bolt to the instrument panel reinforcement assembly. Torque: 8 NSm (82 kgfScm, 6 ftSlbf) 17. Install the turnover (compression) spring. A. Apply MP grease to the contact surface of the spring holder, clutch pedal, and spring. B. Install the spring onto the clutch pedal and spring holder.

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Some 2009 – 2010 model year Corolla vehicles may exhibit premature pad wear. Use the following replacement pads to address this condition. Repair Procedure 1. Remove the front wheel. 2. Inspect the front pads for any irregular wear by loosening the two bolts on the brake caliper assembly. 3. Remove the brake caliper assembly and support it to prevent damage to the ?exible line. 4. Inspect the front pads for wear. If the pads are worn excessively, then replace the pads with the new part number. 5. Add disc brake caliper grease to both sides of the pad support clips and the anti-squeal shims. Figure 3. Figure 4. 2 1 1 No. 1 Disc Brake Pad Support Plate 2 No. 2 Disc Brake Pad Support Plate : 1 1 Add Grease Here (Pad Support Clips) NOTE Install the new anti-squeal shims and the pad wear indicators to the brake pads in the correct position to ensure quiet operation. Figure 5. : 1 1 Add Grease to These Surfaces 6. Install the pads into the brake caliper support assembly. 7. Install the brake caliper and tighten the caliper bolts. Torque: 34 N*m (347 kgf*cm, 25 ft*lbf) 8. Install the wheel and tighten the wheel nuts. Torque: 103 N*m (1050 kgf*cm, 76 ft*lbf) 9. Road test the vehicle to con?rm that there are no further issues with the brake system.

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Some customers of 2WD 2005 – 2007 model year Sequoia and 2005 – 2006 model year Tundra vehicles may complain about a clunk, thunk, or pop noise from the vehicle that is commonly heard when stopping, accelerating from a stop, or turning at low speeds. The source of the noise has been identi?ed as the joint between the rear transmission mount and the frame crossmember. The transmission mount has been redesigned to prevent this. Use the following repair procedure to address customer concerns. Repair Procedure 1. Place the vehicle on a lift and install ChassisEAR™ (or equivalent) on the following components to help isolate the source of the noise (see Figure 1): • On frame crossmember No. 3. • On rear transmission mount above rubber section of mount or on transmission extension housing assembly. Figure 1. 2. Test drive the vehicle and duplicate the noise. 3. With ChassisEAR™ installed, the noise should be very loud from the frame crossmember No. 3 pickup location and NOT heard on the rear transmission mount above the rubber section of the mount. Is the noise loudest when ChassisEAR™ has frame crossmember No. 3 selected? • YES — Go to step 4. • NO — This TSB does NOT apply. Continue using ChassisEAR™ to identify the source of the noise and diagnose per the Repair Manual. 4. Replace the rear transmission mount, frame crossmember No. 3, and 4 bolts retaining the transmission mount to frame crossmember No. 3. A. Place the vehicle on a lift. HINT Use a transmission jack and underhoist stand to lift and support the transmission assembly during the next 5 steps. B. Remove the 4 bolts retaining the transmission to the rear transmission mount. C. Remove the 4 bolts retaining the frame crossmember No. 3 to the frame assembly and remove the frame crossmember No. 3 assembly with rear transmission mount from the vehicle. NOTE Do NOT torque any of the bolts in steps D through F until ALL the bolts in steps D through F have been started. D. Install the NEW rear transmission mount (insulator, engine mounting rear) to the transmission extension housing using the 4 bolts. Torque: 65 N*m (660 kgf*cm, 48 ft*lbf) E. Install the NEW rear transmission mount (insulator, engine mounting rear) to the NEW frame crossmember No. 3 using the 4 NEW bolts. Torque: 30 N*m (300 kgf*cm, 22.1 ft*lbf) NOTE The torque value for these 4 bolts has been increased. Figure 5. 1 Engine Mounting Rear Insulator (P/N 12371-0F080) 2 Frame Crossmember No. 3 3 Bolt w/Washer (P/N 90119-08895) 4 Front of Vehicle

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Some customers may experience a crank and “No start” condition accompanied by immobiliser DTC B2799 and/or B2780, B2784, B2796, B2797, B279A. A production change has been made to the Transponder key ECU. Use the following repair procedure to address these customer concerns. Repair Procedure 1. Verify that the vehicle will crank but not start. 2. Perform Health check and look for any immobiliser system DTCs. 3. If there are any immobiliser DTC’s present, test the vehicle using all keys. If the condition is present with all the keys, proceed to step 4. If the problem is isolated to a single key, refer to the repair manual diagnostic chart for the speci?c DTC. 4. Replace transponder key ECU. • 2007 / 2008 Tundra: Vehicle Interior – Theft Deterrent / Keyless Entry – Engine Immobiliser – Transponder Key ECU: “Removal” A. Location of the Transponder Key ECU Assembly is on the Air Conditioning Unit between bulkhead on the left. B. Back side of Air Conditioning Unit, where the Transponder Key ECU Assembly is mounted. C. Remove the Transponder Key ECU Assembly from the Air Conditioning Unit, by sliding the lower half out and moving downwards to release the top. 5. Install new Transponder Key ECU. • 2007 / 2008 Tundra: Vehicle Interior – Theft Deterrent / Keyless Entry – Engine Immobiliser – Transponder Key ECU: “Installation” 6. Connect TIS Techstream and clear all stored DTCs. 7. Verify Proper Operation of Immobilizer System.

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Much has been written about swapping Suzuki’s G16B 1.6 liter 16-valve engine into the Samurai. It is mechanically very simple (as engine swaps go) but the wiring can be a daunting challenge for many. To date it has been necessary for the DIY builder to perform extensive research, gather all the information they can find, try to make sense of it, and take their best shot (or pay someone that has already done it). There is no one “correct” way to make this engine swap. The variations are nearly endless. Much of it involves personal preference. What is presented here is a process that is known to be successful, along with some of the more familiar options. ALL WIRING SHOULD BE DONE WITH THE BATTERY REMOVED FROM THE VEHICLE 1.1. It is HIGHLY RECCOMMENED that you purchase the appropriate Field Service Manual for your engine model year (either digital or print copy). Though there are only two sections that are relevant to a transplanted engine the information is absolutely invaluable. Much – but not all – of the required Information is also available in most aftermarket vehicle specific service manuals (Haynes, Chilton’s, etc.) The pertinent sections (6 & of the 1996 Tracker FSM may be downloaded for free from Acksfaq.com (donations are appreciated). 1.2. 1992 through 1998 Suzuki/Geo (GM) vehicles with G16B (1.6 liter 16-valve) engines can be identified by the 8th digit in the Vehicle Identification Number. “0” for Suzuki badged vehicles, “6” for Geo’s (“U” indicates an 8-valve 1.6L). 1.3. The most common set-up, and arguably the simplest, mates a donor Tracker or Sidekick engine, with the Samurai 5- spd Manual Transmission. Donor engines with Automatic Transmissions (3 or 4 A/T) are easily rewired to work with the Samurai 5-spd M/T. Specific notations for installing the donor engine with a 3 A/T appear where necessary. The 4 A/T is significantly more complicated and is not included in these instructions. 1.4. It is preferred (but not required) that the ECM and engine be of the same model year. However, as long as the computer has all the necessary inputs and outputs it makes no difference what motor it is physically controlling. It should be noted that OBD1 vehicles (1995 & earlier) are much less complex than OBD2 vehicles (1996 & after). The earlier technology is far easier for the amateur auto electrician to manage. OBD2, being more modern, has nearly twice as many sensors & controls. Properly tuned, OBD2 engines will provide slightly more power, better fuel economy, and cleaner emissions. Replacement parts are also easier to find, but of course, are more expensive.