1992 Suzuki Swift VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-05-2011

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NOTE: Samurai & Sidekick 1) Remove rocker cover. Rotate crankshaft until zero degree (TDC) timing mark of timing belt cover is in line with timing mark on crankshaft pulley. 2) Cylinder No. 1 should be at TDC on compression stroke. Remove distributor cap, and ensure rotor is pointed upward at distributor hold-down bolt and to No. 1 terminal of distributor cap. If not as described, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees. 3) Measure valve clearance between adjustment screw and valve stem using thickness gauge. Check intake valve clearance of cylinders No. 1 and 2 and exhaust valve clearance of cylinders No. 1 and 3. 4) Turn crankshaft one complete revolution (360 degrees). Check intake valve clearance of cylinders No. 3 and 4 and exhaust valve clearance of cylinders No. 2 and 4. Ensure clearance is within specification. See VALVE CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS table. 5) If clearance adjustment is necessary, loosen lock nut and turn adjusting screw. After adjusting clearance, tighten adjusting Swift DOHC uses hydraulic lifters. Adjustment is not required. screw lock nut to 11-14 ft. lbs. (15-19 N.m) on Samurai or 90-108 INCH lbs. (10-13 N.m) on Sidekick. On all models, recheck clearance. VALVE CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS TABLE ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡ Application SOHC Engines Samurai, Sidekick 8-Valve TBI & Swift (1) Engine Cold Exhaust ……………………. .006-.008 (.15-.20) Intake …………………….. .005-.007 (.13-.17) Engine Hot Exhaust ……………………. .010-.012 (.25-.30) Intake …………………….. .009-.011 (.23-.27) Sidekick 16-Valve PFI Engine Cold Exhaust & Intake ………….. .0031-.0047 (.08-.12) Engine Hot Exhaust & Intake ………….. .0047-.0063 (.12-.16) DOHC Engine Swift (1) …………………………………. (2) (1) – Swift is available with 1.3L DOHC and SOHC engines. (2) – Hydraulic valve lash adjusters are used. Adjustment is not required. ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡ Swift SOHC 1) Remove rocker cover. Remove right side inner fender apron extension to enable timing marks to be seen. Align crankshaft pulley timing mark with TDC mark on timing belt cover. 2) Remove distributor cap. Ensure rotor is pointing upward toward distributor hold-down bolt and to No. 1 terminal of distributor cap. If not as described, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees. 3) Measure valve clearance between adjustment screw and valve stem using thickness gauge. Check intake valve clearance of cylinders No. 1 and 2 and exhaust valve clearance of cylinders No. 1 and 3. Turn crankshaft one complete revolution (360 degrees). Check intake valve clearance of cylinders No. 3 and 4 and exhaust valve clearance of cylinders No. 2 and 4. 4) Ensure clearance is within specification. See VALVE CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS table. If clearance adjustment is necessary, loosen lock nut and turn adjusting screw. Hold adjusting screw while tightening lock nut to 11-14 ft. lbs. (15-19 N.m). Recheck clearance. In. (mm)

Suzuki Sierra/Samurai CV Joint Removal

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-05-2011

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If your CV is leaking grease (see 1.1) or has oil dripping from it you will need to replace the axle oil seal. To do this you will need to remove the CV joint. It is best to buy a kit that contains new seals and king pin bearings. You may as well replace them all while you have the CV out. 1.1 Leaking CV Removal 1. Loosen the wheel nuts then jack up the vehicle and put axle stands under the axle housing on each side. Remove the road wheels then, remove the disc break calliper buy undoing the two bolts at the back of the calliper. Tie the calliper to the top of the shock. 2. Remove the free wheeling hub outer cover. Undo the outer bolts first and remove the front of the hub. You will then need to remove the C clip (1.3) so you can take of the rest of the hub. 1.2 Remove free wheeling hub 1.3 Remove the C clip and take of the rest of the hub 3. Bend the wheel bearing locking tab and undo the wheel bearing locknuts. 1.4 Remove the wheel bearing lock nuts 4. Undo the four bolts holding the back plate and spindle and take off the back plate. 5. Mark the spincle so you can replace it in the same position. Also mark the king pins so they can also be reinstalled in the same position. Use something that won’t come off when you are cleaning the parts. 1.6 mark spindle and king pins before removal 6. Remove the diff oil but undoing the bottom plug in the diff housing. 7. Take out the split pin in the tie-rod nut remove the nut and separate the tie-rod from the steering knuckle with a wheel puller. 1.8 Separate the tie-rod from the steering knuckle 8. Remove the king pins and make sure you know which one is the top and which one is the bottom. 9. You can know take off the steering knuckle. If you are not replacing the king pin bearings be careful as the bottom bearing will fall out when you take of the steering knuckle. 10. Withdraw the CV and axle out and clean all the old grease off the CV and housing.

C230CL 1.8 Kompressor Engine Performance Complaint

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Filed Under (Mercedes-Benz) by admin on 25-05-2011

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Engine vibration, rpm fluctuations at idle, or poor accelerator response along with codes P2020 (P0172), P2046, P201C or P201A may be caused by a tear in the partial load vent hose at the connection to the crankcase. Air will bypass the mass air sensor — i.e. unmeasured air will enter the intake — causing the engine to run lean. The remedy: 1. Remove the supercharger. Refer to WIS document AR09.50-P-4705QK. 2.Remove and install partial load vent hose for crankcase ventilation. 3.Install the supercharger according to the WIS document above. Note: Use a “click clamp” as specified in parts information for securing hose. Ensure that the clamp is positioned as close to the end of the hose as possible and fastened tight. Parts Information: Click Clamp, 005 997 49 90 Partial Load Vent Hose, 271 018 04 82

2001 Mercedes-Benz C320 (W203) Replacing Spark Plugs

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Filed Under (Mercedes-Benz) by admin on 25-05-2011

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Step 1. Wait for the engine to cool down and gather listed materials. Working on a hot engine is incred- ibly dumb. Step 2. Open the hood and remove the front panel and airbox. (Fig. 1.) Step 3. Protect the air intake with a cover (I used aluminum foil. (Fig. 2.) Fig. 1. Engine all assembled Step 4. Locate the spark plugs. This engine has six-cylindars and twelve spark plugs (six on each side). Select one side to do at a time. Step 5. Starting with the spark plug furthest from the firewall, remove the electrical plug and unscrew unit from the engine using the T-25 Torx bit. Use the magnet to ensure the screw is not dropped into the engine. (Fig. 3.) Step 6. Spray the spark plug boots with WD-40 to loosen them for removal. Wait a few minutes to allow solvent to penetrate. Step 7. Use the 17 mm wrench to pry the boot off from the spark plug. This is the biggest pain in the ass. Try to loosen the boot by turning the boot using your hand. Be careful not to damage or crimp the boot if using the pliers. Fig. 2. Protect your engine! Cover the air intake from accidental beer spilling! Fig. 3. Spark plugs on driver’s side with wires and harnesses intact. Step 8. engine. position labeled, engine. Do this for the entire side of the This part took the longest. Label the of the modules. The boots are both on the module and on the (Fig. 4 and 5.) Fig. 5. The engine has embossed lettering to show which boot goes where. Fig. 6. Old and new spark plugs. I used OEM spark plugs, as seen in Fig. 7. Fig. 4. Engine without spark plug modules. Step 9. Remove the spark plug. This is a pain in the ass as well. Remember, lefty- loosy, righty-tighty. Use the appropriate-sized extension to remove the spark plug. You may have to change extensions mid way. Step 10. Insert new spark plug. Spray with WD-40 before screwing in to allow for easier removal the next time you change spark plugs. Tighten to 28 N m. Step 11. Re-attach boots to the spark plugs, making sure you place them in the right order. You will feel or hear a pop when they connect. Also re-attach modules to the engine block. Step 12. Repeat on other side of engine, noting the number of new and used spark plugs as you go along. Step 13. Once complete, remove cover that was placed on the air intake and replace air box. You are done! There will be some smoke and smell as the WD-40 burns off the engine and plugs.

2004 Mercedes-Benz C230 Sport Coupe Kompressor Mass Air Flow Sensor Removal

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Filed Under (Mercedes-Benz) by admin on 25-05-2011

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The Check Engine Light came ON on my C230 Kompressor Sport Coupe; the fault code was P0170 which is Fuel Trim Malfunction fault. The Mercedes CD repair manual was a bit vague as to what to replace. An archive search of the Benz World forums indicated that the Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor could be dirty or need to be replaced. So I thought I would clean it. In order to remove the MAF it’s necessary to remove the air filter box. In hind sight if all you really want to do is clean the MAF sensor it is possible by simply taking the top of the air filter box off and removing the air filter and spraying through the MAF screen at the sensor components. To get to the Mass Airflow sensor you need to remove the air filter box. It is held in place by two bolts toward the rear and two rubber bushings in front. Other items that are attached to it are a flex duct going to the supercharger, various electrical connectors, crankcase ventilation tube and also a vacuum line that needs to be disconnected for clearance. 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable since you’ll be disconnecting several connectors. The battery is underneath the cover/filter for cabin air. You will need to resynchronize the windows and panorama sun roof. 2. There are two bolts that have to be loosened. 3. Disconnect the inlet air duct, there’s a tab on the bottom that can make it difficult to disconnect. 4. Disconnect the vacuum line by gently pressing on the outer ring and lifting. Also disconnect the nearby connector and detach one half of the connector from the stand-off bracket. 5. Disconnect the electrical connectors by pulling on the “T” handles at the front and rear of the connectors. Also unscrew the small bracket that they are zipped tied to or cut the zip tie.