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2007 Mazda CX-7 FRONT CRANKSHAFT BOLT SERVICE WARNING

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Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 16-06-2011

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APPLICABLE MODEL(S) / VINS 2001-2007 Truck / B-Series (2.3L Only) 2005-2006 Tribute (2.3L Only) 2003-2007 Mazda6 (2.3L Only) 2004-2007 Mazda3 (2.0L & 2.3L) 2006-2007 Mazda5 2006-2007 Mazda MX-5 2006-2007 Mazdaspeed6 2007 Mazda CX-7 2007 Mazdaspeed3 DESCRIPTION When removing or replacing the crankshaft pulley on a 2.0L (Mazda3 only) or a 2.3L engine, be sure to follow the Workshop Manual procedures. The crankshaft pulley is not keyed to the crankshaft, and when loosened, it may move out of position on the crankshaft. The engine MUST be re-timed whenever the crankshaft pulley bolt is loosened, removed, or replaced. For normal aspirated engines, follow the Workshop Manual procedures and time the engine using Special Tools (Crankshaft Alignment Pin 303-507, Camshaft Alignment Timing Tool 303-465 and a standard M6 X 1.0 X 2.25 bolt). For direct injection spark ignition engines, follow the Workshop Manual procedures and time the engine using Special Tools (Crankshaft Alignment Pin 303-507, Camshaft Alignment Timing Tool 303-1061 and a standard M6 X 1.0 X 2.25 bolt). Please refer to the Mazda Job Aid on MS3 under Training titled “Engine Timing Verification and Correction LF2.0L and L3/L3T 2.3L” for more information. CAUTION: Engine damage will occur if the engine is not re-timed properly. Refer to applicable Workshop Manual (Section 01-10 – MECHANICAL – 2.0L (Mazda3 only) or 2.3L). NOTE: Damage to an engine caused by not following proper Workshop Manual procedures may result in denial of warranty claims or back charges.

2007 Mazda MX-5 Miata Sport ENGINE TECHNICAL DATA SPECIFICATION

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Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 18-03-2011

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Valve clearance [Engine cold] Compression Front oil seal press-in amount Cylinder Head Bolt Length L Cylinder Head Bolt Maximum Oil control valve resistance Ignition timing Idle speed Idle mixture Oil pressure (reference value) [oil temperature: 100° C {212°F}] Engine oil capacity (approx. quantity) (AT, 5MT) Engine oil capacity (approx. quantity) (AT, 5MT) Engine oil capacity (approx. quantity) (6MT) Engine coolant capacity (approx. quantity) Cooling system cap valve opening pressure Thermostat initial-opening temperature Thermostat full-open temperature Thermostat full-open lift Cooling fan motor current Fuel line pressure 250 kPa {2.55 kgf/cm2 , 36.2 psi} or more Fuel injector resistance 11.4-12.6 ohms [20°C {68°F}] Fuel injector leakage amount Less than 1 drop/2 min Fuel injection volume 204-216 ml {204-216 cc, 12.5-13.1 cu in}/min Battery electrolyte specific gravity [20°C {68°F}] 1.22-1.29 Battery load test current 46B24L (36): 135 A Battery back-up current Vehicles with immobilizer system: 25-45 mA Vehicles without immobilizer system: 30 mA or less Battery slow charge current 46B24L (36): 3.5-4.5 A Battery quick charge current [30 min,] 46B24L (36): 25 A Terminal B: B+ Terminal P: Approx. 1 V or less Generator standard voltage [IG-ON] Fuel hold pressure

Mazda 3 Smoked Rear Reflector with LEDs Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 05-03-2011

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1) Remove covers on both sides of hatch. (below) 2) Use a 10mm socket (with extension) to remove the nuts that secure the rear tail lamps. (right) 3) Remove both of the rear tail lamps. This may require a small amount of force as there are plastic ball/socket joints that hold the lamps in place. Once the lamps are free, disconnect the wiring harnesses from the bulb sockets. (right) 4) Use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the large fasteners that secure the rear bumper underneath the car. They are somewhat difficult to remove. (left) 5) Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the screws that secure the rear bumper to the fenders. The screws are just above the wheel where the rear bumper meets the fender. (right) 6) Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the screws that secure the rear bumper to the wheel well liner. The screws are underneath the car at the very rear of the wheel wells. (left)

2004 Mazda 3 L4 Cold Air Intake Installation Guide

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Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 28-02-2011

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Removal of Factory Intake 1. 2. Pull upwards to remove the engine cover. Unclip the battery cover and remove, then disconnect the negative battery cable. Disengage the plastic rivet. Slide the battery cold air vent backwards and remove from the engine compartment. Disconnect the mass air sensor electrical connection. Depress the retaining clip and disconnect the rank case vent hose from the stock intake tube. Remove the switch/sensor from the air cleaner cover. Loosen the clamp at the throttle body. Unclip the coolant hose from the air cleaner cover. Unclip the air cleaner cover and remove the complete upper air cleaner assembly. Remove the rubber retainer from the core support. Remove the lower air cleaner assembly. Unclip the wire harness from the side of the battery box. Remove the mass air sensor from the air cleaner cover. Remove the plastic clip from the crank case vent on the stock intake tube. Slide the clamps off rubber rank case vent. Remove the plastic vent from the stock intake tube. Slide the plastic clip from before back onto the crank case vent. Raise the vehicle up and support by jack stands, then remove the left front tire. Remove the four bolts and one plastic rivet from the inner valance, then remove the valance. Remove the three plastic rivets and six hex bolts on the inner valance, then pull the inner valance downward. Remove the three bolts that secure the air intake resonator to the inner fender, then remove the resonator. Secure the rubber mounted stud to the hole on the battery tray. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. Install of Intake 24. Install reducer and clamps onto the throttle body. 25. Install the hose onto the vent on the intake tube. 26. Install the mass air sensor into the intake tube. 27. Slide the tube into the reducer and line up the bracket with stud, then tighten the clamps at the throttle body. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. Secure the switch to the bracket (not for the 06 Mazda 5 model). Install the crank case vent into the hose on the intake tube. Reconnect the crank case vent. Install the rubber mounting stud into the resonator threaded hole. Install the reducer and clamps onto the cold air tube. From underneath the vehicle install the cold air tube. Slide the cold air tube onto the short ram tube. Secure the bracket to the tuber mounted stud. Install the filter onto the cold air tube from the underneath vehicle. Reconnect the mass air sensor. Reverse the removal process and reinstall the inner fender valance. Reinstall the front tire and torque to factory specs. Slide the vent into the core support and line up the other end with the battery box and secure with plastic rivet. 41. Reconnect the negative battery cable, then reinstall the battery cover. 42. Reinstall the engine cover. Resetting the ECU This is to be completed at your own risk. This procedure will reset the computer so that it may “learn” of your new intake. We are not to be held liable for any mishaps that you may occur while completing this process. • • Disconnect the Negative battery cable for 5 minutes. Reconnect the battery cable and false panel cover.

2010 Mazda 3 short shifter Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 28-02-2011

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1. Working in the engine bay, start removal of the stock air box by removing the bolt on the top part of the air box as pictured to the left. Use a 10 mm socket and a ratchet. Put it aside for re-install later. If you have an aftermarket intake, proceed to step #10 for battery removal. 2. Unclip the two (2) clips holding the top part of the air box as pictured to the left. 3. Unplug the MAF connector as pictured to the left. 4. Unclip the rubber hose over the intake as pictured. 5. Loosen the bolt holding the intake piping to the throttle body using a 10mm socket and a ratchet. 6. You can now remove the air box top half from the throttle body. 7. Pull on the hose on the top of the intake to remove it as pictured. 8. Working at the rear of the air box, you will see the MAF wiring is held on the box itself with a tab. Use needle nose pliers to squeeze the tab and push it out. 9. Pull up on the air box to remove it from the engine bay. Take good note of both rubber grommets where it’s installed in as it will need to be re- installed the same way. Put it aside for re-install later. 10. Pull on both tabs holding the top part of the battery box and remove it. This top part has 2 tabs at the back that are inserted in two slots on the bottom part. To remove it, lift the front part up and then slide it toward the front of the car. Put it aside for re- install later. 11. Using a 10 mm socket and ratchet, unbolt the battery holder. There is a bolt on each side of the battery. Put it aside for re-install later. 12. Unbolt both battery terminals using a 10 mm socket with a ratchet. Remove the battery from the engine bay and put it aside for re-install later. 13. Using a 12 mm socket and a ratchet, remove the three (3) bolts at the bottom holding the battery box in place. Put them aside for re-install later. 14. The two (2) grey tabs behind the battery connector on the front part of the battery box needs to be pushed out. Use needle nose pliers to squeeze them and push them out. 15. You can now remove the front part of the battery box as pictured. Put it aside for re-install later. 16. Using needle nose pliers, squeeze the plastic tab holding the wiring harness to the bottom of the battery box and push it out as pictured. 18. Repeat the same for the tab 19. Tilt the battery box toward the front of the car where the air box was. 20. You now have access to the shifter cable and shifter actuator where the short shifter will be installed. Use a long flat head screwdriver to pop the left cable out of the shifter arm. Do not apply too much force, it will come out easily. This is easier done when the shifter is in lower gears (2nd, 4th , 6th or R).