2000 ford ranger clutch release plastic diagram
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Filed Under (Toyota) by admin on 04-06-2011
Some customers may complain about a “squeak” or “creak” noise when depressing or releasing the clutch pedal. The clutch master cylinder clevis assembly has been improved to eliminate this condition. Repair Procedure 1. Record all radio presets before starting. 2. Disconnect the negative (–) battery terminal cable. 3. Remove the clutch pedal sub–assembly. A. Remove the front door opening trim LH (scuff plate). B. Remove the cowl side trim board. C. Remove the instrument panel finish panel lower No. 1. D. Remove the driver’s side Junction Block. E. Remove the turnover (compression) spring. F. Remove the bolt attached to the instrument panel reinforcement assembly. G. Remove the clutch pedal sub–assembly. a. Remove the bolt and nut. b. Remove the clutch pedal from the clutch pedal support. 4. Remove the clutch pedal spring holder from the clutch pedal support. 5. Remove the clutch pedal pad. 6. Remove the two (2) clutch pedal bushes from the clutch pedal. 7. Remove the clutch pedal shaft collar. 8. Using needle–nose pliers, remove the No. 1 cushion from the clutch pedal. 9. Install the clutch pedal No. 1 cushion on the NEW clutch pedal sub–assembly. NOTE: Install parts on the NEW clutch pedal sub–assembly BEFORE installing in the vehicle. 10. Install the clutch pedal shaft collar. A. Apply MP grease to the clutch pedal shaft collar. B. Install the clutch pedal shaft collar onto the clutch pedal. 11. Install the clutch pedal bushes. A. Apply MP grease to the two (2) NEW bushes. B. Install the two (2) bushes onto the clutch pedal. 12. Install the clutch pedal pad. 13. Install the clutch pedal spring holder. A. Apply MP grease to the contact surface of the clutch pedal spring holder. B. Install the clutch pedal spring holder. 14. Remove the clevis sub–assembly. A. Measure length “A” of the clutch master cylinder. a. Measure length “A” between the lock nut and the thread end with a ruler. b. Record length “A”. B. Remove the clevis sub–assembly from the master cylinder. a. Loosen the lock nut. b. Rotate and remove the clevis sub–assembly. 15. Install the NEW clevis sub–assembly. A. Rotate the lock nut to match length “A”. B. Rotate and install the NEW clevis sub–assembly to contact the lock nut. C. Tighten the lock nut and torque to specification. Torque: 11.8 NSm (120 kgfScm, 8.7 ftSlbf) D. Apply MP grease to the ball end of the clevis sub–assembly where it will contact the clutch pedal. 16. Install the NEW clutch pedal sub–assembly. A. Install the clutch pedal onto the clutch support with the bolt and nut. Torque: 34 NSm (347 kgfScm, 25 ftSlbf) HINT: Install the bolt from the left side of the vehicle. B. Apply MP grease to the clutch pedal sub–assembly where the clevis sub–assembly contacts the clutch pedal. NOTE: Failure to apply grease to the clevis and clutch pedal sub–assemblies could cause the noise to return. C. Tighten the bolt to the instrument panel reinforcement assembly. Torque: 8 NSm (82 kgfScm, 6 ftSlbf) 17. Install the turnover (compression) spring. A. Apply MP grease to the contact surface of the spring holder, clutch pedal, and spring. B. Install the spring onto the clutch pedal and spring holder.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 08-03-2011
Removal CAUTION: Remove the entire clutch hydraulic system from the vehicle as an assembly when installing a new clutch master cylinder assembly (7C522). 1. Disconnect the clutch hydraulic tube from the dash clip. 2. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02. 3. Unlock and remove the slave cylinder (7A564) from the transmission. Compress and twist the slave cylinder to unlock it from the transmission. 4. Disconnect the clutch hydraulic tube from the floor pan clip. Position the slave cylinder and hydraulic tube forward below the left engine bank. This will make it easier to unlock the clutch master cylinder from the clutch pedal and support bracket (7B633) by reducing tension on the hydraulic tube. 5. Lower the vehicle. 6. WARNING: The clutch pedal is under spring tension. Unlock the push rod bushing retaining clips and separate the clutch master cylinder push rod from the clutch pedal. 7. Remove and discard the push rod bushing (7526). 8. Remove the switch cover, and remove the clutch pedal position switch (7C534) from the clutch master cylinder push rod. 9. Separate the power distribution box from the bracket to gain access to the clutch master cylinder. 10. Unlock and remove the clutch master cylinder from the clutch pedal and support bracket. Compress and twist the clutch master cylinder clockwise 45 degrees to unlock it from the clutch pedal and support bracket. 11. Remove the clutch hydraulic reservoir from the wiring tray and separate the clutch hydraulic tube from the brake master cylinder assembly. Position the clutch hydraulic reservoir aside. 12. CAUTION: Brake fluid is harmful to painted and plastic surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled onto a painted or plastic surface, wash the surface with water immediately. Remove the clutch hydraulic system from the vehicle. 13. Clean the clutch hydraulic system components to prevent contaminants from entering the hydraulic system. 14. CAUTION: Place a suitable container under the clutch master cylinder. Disconnect the hydraulic tube from the clutch master cylinder. 1. Using a 3/32-inch punch and a hammer, drive out the roll pin, and discard it. 2. Disconnect the hydraulic tube from the clutch master cylinder.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 18-04-2010
1. Raise vehicle on hoist, and support lower control arm. 2. Remove wheel and tire assembly. 3. Mark position of upper eccentric camber bolts. 4. Remove upper ball joint spindle nut and pinch bolt, 5. Separate upper ball joint from spindle. 6. Remove nuts and camber bolts attaching upper control arm-to-frame, 7. Remove upper control arm. 8. Place control arm in vise, press ball joint out with ball joint press. See Fig. 1. 9. After ball joint has been pressed out install new ball joint (500-1109) with the words “install inboard” facing toward the inboard side of control arm. See Fig. 2. Incorrect installation may cause damage to the ball joint 10. Install ball joint boot with words “install inboard” towards the inboard side of control arm. See Fig. 3. 11. Install upper control arm. 12. Align upper eccentric camber bolts with marks made during removal. 13. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Tighten bolts and nuts to specification. Then check wheel alignment
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 10-10-2010
1994-1997 Ford Probe, Mazda MX3 with 4 cyl. & A/T 1994-2000 Mazda 626 with 4 cyl. & A/T 1998-2000 Mazda 626 with 6 cyl. & A/T 1995-2000 Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique with 6 cyl. & A/T 1999-2001 Mercury Cougar with A/T SUBJECT Vehicles with the Ford CD4E automatic transmission. CONDITION The driver’s side front CV axle has a 6-½ inch male inboard stub that fits into the transmission’s side gear. On the stub next to the housing seal surface is a carrier support surface that fits into the final drive sun gear inside the transmission (see figure 1). This sprocket assembly is chain driven with the reverse/overdrive sprocket by the planetary gear sets (see figure 2). The final drive sprocket assembly rides on the axle stub carrier support surface using a pressed, center bored bushing. This bushing wears the carrier support surface causing damage to the axle and eventually the transmission. SOLUTION If the carrier support surface of the axle being replaced appears rough and worn, then several possible failures need to be checked before replacing the axle or premature failure of the axle or possible damage to the transmission could occur. If the transmission’s internal oiling solenoid that lubricates this bushing fails, then the 2nd and 3rd gearshifts will not function. Although the Aftermarket lists this bushing, no tool exists to replace it. Ford only offer the bushing in a complete sprocket assembly making its replacement a very costly repair. The most common contributor to premature wear of this bushing is the vehicle not being within proper alignment specs. Without a four-wheel alignment, even though the front wheels may be centered to the rack, the rear thrust is pushing the front wheels causing stress on the front CV joints. The thrust forces acting on the front wheels while driving changes ALL the alignment specs resulting in the front wheels being in a constant turning action. This will wear the side gears and transmission seals as well as stressing this bushing. Another possible sign that alignment is affecting these items is a worn or torn inboard boot. Do not forget that worn motor mounts will also affect alignment thrust forces.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 26-01-2011
Incomplete clutch release and/or hydraulic fluid leaking into the cab from the clutch master cylinder may be caused by the reinforcement plate on the clutch master cylinder separating from the dash panel. The separation of the reinforcement plate reduces the clutch master cylinder pushrod travel. Reinforcement plate separation can also cause deflection of the clutch master cylinder that results in a misalignment of the pushrod to the clutch master cylinder. Misalignment causes the “O” ring in front of the secondary seal to leak hydraulic fluid. ACTION Inspect the truck and, if necessary, use the following service procedure to install a reinforcement kit. INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. If the truck is a 1988 or later model, confirm that the starter interlock switch operates (the engine can be started) with the clutch pedal at least 0.5″ (12.7 mm) from the floor. 2. Test drive the truck and check for good clutch release. There should be no grinding of the gears, particularly when shifting from neutral to reverse gear. 3. If the truck passes these tests, go to the Small Reinforcement Installation Procedure Section of this article. 4. If either of the above conditions are not met, check the hydraulic system for air. Refer to the Suggested Bleeding Procedure at the end of this article. 5. Test drive the truck and check for improved clutch release. 6. If there is no improvement, proceed as follows: a. Remove the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the release lever pin on the release lever. b. Make sure the hole in the pushrod lines up with the pin, for those units requiring a minimal force