2007 silverado strut disassembly
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Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 20-10-2009
2007 Mazdaspeed3 vehicles with VINs lower than JM1BK******742222 (produced before April 1, 2007)
2006-2007 Mazdaspeed6 vehicles with VINs lower than JM1 GG******109660 (produced before April 1, 2007)
2007 Mazda CX-7 vehicles with VINs lower than JM3ER******166945 (produced before April 1, 2007)
When the engine is first started, some vehicles may exhibit a loud ticking noise from the variable valve timing
(VVT). This is caused by the lock pin of the variable valve timing actuator not fully engaging. Heat treatment has
now been added around the hole of the variable valve timing rotor lock pin to prevent this from happening
Filed Under (Chevrolet) by admin on 21-10-2010
Models: 2001-2004 Buick Regal 2001-2005 Buick Century, LeSabre 2002-2007 Buick Rendezvous 2005-2007 Buick Terraza, LaCrosse, Allure (Canada Only) 2006-2007 Buick Lucerne 2001-2005 Chevrolet Venture 2001-2007 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo 2005-2007 Chevrolet Uplander 2006-2007 Chevrolet Malibu SS, Malibu Maxx SS 2001-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue 2001-2003 Oldsmobile Aurora 2001-2004 Oldsmobile Silhouette 2001-2005 Pontiac Aztek, Bonneville, Montana 2001-2007 Pontiac Grand Prix 2005-2007 Pontiac Montana SV6 2006-2007 Pontiac G6 GTP 2005-2007 Saturn Relay with 4T65E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15, M76) Condition Some customers may comment on a 1-2 shift shudder at light to moderate acceleration. Typically, the throttle plate angle parameter is 12-20% at time of condition with vehicle speed of approximately 24-40 km/h (15-25 mph). The customer may describe the condition as slip or delayed shift into second. Correction Replace the complete second clutch assembly with service kit, P/N 24240561. Refer to the GM Unit Repair Service Manual for the year and model of the vehicle being serviced for the 2nd Clutch service procedure. This service kit contains: Second Clutch Housing Fluid Seal Rings (613), a Second Clutch Assembly (617), a Case Cover (Channel Plate) Upper Gasket (430), and a Case Cover (Channel Plate) Lower Gasket (429). In addition to the content of this service kit, other gaskets not included in this service kit will also be needed to complete the repair – a Case Cover Lower Gasket (429), and a Case Cover Upper Gasket (430). These gaskets can be obtained by ordering gasket kit 24206391. Be sure to use ONLY the Second Clutch Assembly and Second Clutch Housing Fluid Seal Rings provided in this service kit. DISCARD the Second Clutch Assembly and Second Clutch Housing Fluid Seal Rings removed from the transmission being serviced. Disassemble ONLY the Oil Pump Assembly from the Case Cover (Complete). DO NOT disassemble the Control Valve Body from the Case Cover. Remove ONLY the Case Cover-to-Case bolts to remove the Case Cover and Valve Body from Transmission Case AS AN ASSEMBLY . To access all Case Cover-to-Case bolts, it is necessary to remove the Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Assembly (322), and 1-2 & 3-4 Shift Solenoid Valve
Filed Under (Hyundai) by admin on 04-12-2010
1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel assembly. Disconnect brakeline bracket from strut assembly. Support control arm. Remove strut-to-steering knuckle bolts. Separate strut from steering knuckle. 2. Remove dust cap from top of strut. See Fig. 5 . Remove strut-to-body nuts. Remove strut assembly from vehicle. If no mark is present, mark bottom edge of coil spring for reassembly reference. Fig. 5: Exploded View Of Strut Assembly (Elantra & Tiburon Shown; Others Are Similar) Disassembly Mount strut assembly in vise. Compress coil spring using coil spring compressor. Remove self-locking bearing nut with Spanner Wrench while holding upper spring seat. See SPECIAL TOOLS table. Remove insulator and spring seat. Remove rubber bumper and dust cover. See Fig. 5 . Slowly release coil spring compressor tension. Remove coil spring. Inspection Check parts for deterioration or damage. Check strut assembly for leaks and proper operation. Replace strut if fluid leakage exists. Replace worn or damaged parts. Reassembly 1. To reassemble, reverse disassembly procedure. Place coil spring identification mark toward knuckle. Ensure “D” shaped upper seat hole is aligned with notch in piston rod. Align coil spring ends in spring seat grooves. 2. Pack insulator bearing with grease and install dust cap. Avoid getting grease on insulators. Compress coil spring. Install rubber bumper and dust cover, spring seat and insulator. Using spanner wrench, tighten strut piston assembly lock nut to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . Installation To install, reverse removal procedure. Ensure strut assembly and steering knuckle mating surfaces are clean. Tighten fasteners to specification. Check front end alignment. See SPECIFICATIONS & PROCEDURES article in WHEEL ALIGNMENT.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 18-02-2011
Removal 1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 2. Remove the front wheel and tire assembly. 3. CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten to final torque the front stabilizer bar link-to-front shock absorber nut. Remove the stabilizer bar link retaining nut and disconnect the link from the strut. 4. CAUTION: Do not allow the halfshaft to move outboard. Over extension of the CV joint may result in the separation of internal parts, causing failure of the joint. Remove the strut assembly-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. If required, slightly spread the steering knuckle to ease the removal of the strut. Pry down on the lower control arm and roll the strut base out of the knuckle. Do not pry on the halfshaft, as damage may result. Wire the steering knuckle up to prevent the halfshaft from moving outboard. 5. Partially lower the vehicle. 6. Support the strut assembly and remove the top three mount-to-strut tower nuts. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle. 7. CAUTION: The strut assembly is under spring tension. Attempting to disassemble the strut without properly compressing the spring can result in injury. Using a suitable spring compressing tool, slightly compress the strut spring to relieve initial tension. Loosen the upper rod nut. Continue to compress the spring until the tension is relieved. Remove the upper rod nut. 8. Remove all upper mounting parts, coil spring, and coil spring isolators from the strut and save them for reassembly. Carefully note the position of each part during removal to ensure proper reassembly. Inspect each part for wear and damage as it is removed. Installation 1. CAUTION: The bearing and seal assembly is press-fit onto the upper mount. The mount washers must be installed in the correct orientation. NOTE: Be sure to check the spring insulator for damage before assembly. If the outer metal splash shield is bent or damaged, it must be carefully bent back, so it does not touch the locator on the bearing and seal assembly. NOTE: New gas struts are shipped with the rod in a locked down position. To extend the new strut, remove the external tie down and/or rotate the upper end of the rod, counterclockwise. Install the coil spring insulator, coil spring, and upper mounting parts to the new strut assembly. Make sure the spring is correctly seated in both spring seats.
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 16-06-2011
Suggested Tools: Floor Jack Jack Stands (2) Sockets: 12mm, 14mm, 15mm Socket Extensions Spring Compressor Installation Steps – FRONT SPRINGS 1. Jack the front of the car up, and support with the two jack stands. 2. Remove both front wheels from the vehicle. 3. Using a 15mm socket, remove the bolt from the lower tie arm: 4. Using a 12mm socket, remove the bolt holding the brake line in place: 5. Using a 15mm socket, remove the bolt from the lower strut clamp. 6. Using a 14mm socket, remove the bolt from the lower front sway bar linkage. 7. Support the bottom of the axle so the strut does not fall down during the next step. 8. Remove the 3 14mm strut mount bolts from the top of the strut tower, under the hood. 9. The strut/spring combo can now be removed from the vehicle. Use the spring compressor to allow the removal of the stock spring from around the strut. You will want to space the spring compressor at least 3 coils between the upper and lower “hooks” of the compressor to make sure you compress the spring enough. 10. Safely remove the compressed spring from around the stock strut and uncompress the spring slowly and evenly. Repeat steps 3-10 on the other side of the car. Installation of Aftermarket Springs 11. Compress the new spring and place over the stock strut. 12. Install the stock strut/spring “Cap” and make sure to line up one of the upper boltholes with the “bracket/clamp” plate on the bottom of the strut. This is key, as the strut will not reinstall if not done properly! a. Torque the nut onto the center strut bolt as much as possible, using a pair of pliers to hold the center post still and a wrench to turn the nut. If you don’t hold the center post still, it will spin with the nut as you get closer to the bottom. You should have 2-3 threads showing if you have tightened down all the way. b. Slowly uncompress the spring and make sure everything remains lined up, including the bottom of the spring. 13. Set the wishbone on the axle. 14. Insert the strut into the car then secure the top (3), 14mm bolts through the top of the strut tower. 15. Insert the bottom of the strut into the wishbone making sure the bottom of the strut lines up properly.