OPEL ASTRA 1.4 alternator belt
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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 05-06-2011
Common causes of camshaft timing belt failure on the above vehicles are due to incorrect operating tension, or ingress of dirt, water, or debris entering the timing belt cover. Predominantly on Fiesta models a high percentage of camshaft timing belt failures occur after the ancillary poly ‘V’ drive belt has failed, where strands of material off the broken belt have entered the timing belt cover. This is especially so where an ancillary belt has been fitted that does not contain “Kevlar” based materials. It is therefore important to always remove the timing belt cover to check for belt debris if the ancillary belt has failed. Any contamination that enters the timing belt cover can become compressed between the surfaces of the camshaft timing belt and drive pulleys. This causes wear to both the belt teeth, backing surface, and damage to the drive pulleys, resulting in premature failure of the camshaft timing belt. Later engines have modifications to improve the sealing of the belt cover around the crankshaft pulley, to reduce the level of outside contamination. Incorrect tensioning of the belt during installation will adversely affect the life of the belt. Before fitting a new belt it is important to check and observe the following points :- 1) Right Hand Inner Wing Splash Shield (Fiesta, Escort, Mondeo) This must be fitted and undamaged. 2) Timing Belt Cover Check that all components of the cover are fitted and undamaged. Ensure the latest type of modified cover is fitted. 3) a) Toothed Drive Pulleys Check that the tooth profiles are not worn or damaged. On vehicles built before January 1994 special attention should be given to the nylon toothed pulley situated below the camshaft pulley in a clockwise position on the belt drive (see diag item 4). This should be changed to a modified steel pulley (Ford No. 7053802) plus bolt (6701537). Ensure that the Camshaft and Injection Pump sprockets are free to rotate on the drive locations when the retaining bolts are slackened off. b) 4) a) b) c) Water Pump, Idler and Tensioner Pulleys Check that the belt running surfaces are not worn or damaged. Check that the flanges are running true and not damaged. Check that the water pump, and pulley bearings are in good condition, to ensure correct belt alignment. 5) Crankshaft Pulley The toothed pulley is in two parts. The rear section (Injection Pump Drive) is located onto the crankshaft by a small drive pin. The front section (Camshaft and “Poly V” belt drive) engages onto the rear pulley via a small vee protrusion on the rear face. Should the central fixing bolt for the crankshaft pulley come loose, or an old bolt re-used (Stretch bolt design), it is possible for fretting to take place damaging the locations. The crankshaft and camshaft pulleys can then move out of timing alignment, resulting in valve and piston contact damage. Replacement Procedure As the vehicle is fitted with two timing belts, one to drive the Camshaft, and one to drive the Injection Pump drives, which are driven off the crankshaft pulley, it is strongly recommended that both belts are replaced at the same time. NOTE: Special tools are required to lock the crankshaft, camshaft, and injection pump in the correct angular location when changing the belts, to ensure correct timing position. IMPORTANT: Ensure the engine is cold (not run for 4 hours) before commencing working as this will affect the setting of the timing belt tension and could lead to premature failure. Continued . . . .
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Filed Under (Jeep) by admin on 03-01-2011
Correct drive belt tension is required to ensure optimum performance of the belt driven engine accessories. There are different types of adjustment gauges for checking either a serpentine or a V-type belt. Use the correct gauge when checking belt tension. Place gauge in the middle of the section of belt being tested (between two pulleys) to check tension. Do not allow the gauge (or gauge adapter) to contact anything but the belt. BELT SCHEMATICS The belt routing schematics are published from the latest information available at the tingle of publication. If anything differs between these schematics and the Belt Routing Label, use the schematics on Belt Routing Label. This label is located in the engine compartment. BELT REPLACEMENT OR ADJUSTMENT- LEFT HAND DRIVE Belt tension is adjusted at the power steering pump bracket and idler pulley assembly. 1. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery. 2. Loosen idler pulley bolt at the power steering bracket. 3. Loosen adjusting bolt until belt can be removed from pulleys. 4. Remove belt. INSTALLATION 1. Check condition of all pulleys. CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory drive belt, the belt MUST be routed correctly. If not, the engine may overheat due to the water pump rotating in the wrong direction. 2. Install new belt. 3. Using serpentine belt tension gauge, tighten adjusting bolt until belt reaches proper tension. Refer to Belt Tension at the rear of this section for proper belt tension. 4. After belt is tensioned correctly, tighten idler pulley bolt to 47 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) 5. After idler pulley has been tightened into position, recheck belt tension. Adjust if necessary. BELT REPLACEMENT OR ADJUSTMENT- RIGHT HAND DRIVE (4.0L) 1. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery. 2. Loosen lower alternator mounting bolt and nut. 3. Loosen upper alternator mounting nut. 4. Loosen adjusting bolt at upper alternator bracket until belt can be removed from pulleys. 5. Remove belt. INSTALLATION 1. Check condition of all pulleys.
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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 08-03-2011
Checking Timing An access plug is provided in the cam drive belt cover so that camshaft timing can be checked without removal of the cover or any other parts. 1. Remove the access plug from the cam drive belt cover. 2. Rotate the crankshaft so that the No. 1 piston is rising on compression stroke. 3. Set the crankshaft to TDC by aligning the timing mark on the crank pulley with the TC mark on the belt cover. Always turn the engine in the direction of normal rotation (clockwise, as viewed from the front). Backward rotation may cause the timing belt to jump time, due to the arrangement of the belt tensioner. 4. Look through the access hole in the belt cover to make sure that the timing mark on the cam drive sprocket is lined up with the pointer on the inner belt cover. 5. Install the belt cover access plug. Adjusting Timing Belt SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Crankshaft Belt Tension Adjusting Tool T74P-6254-A 1. Remove the outer timing belt cover as outlined in this section. CAUTION: Attempting to adjust timing belt tension without loosening spring pivot bolt will break Crankshaft Belt Tension Adjusting Tool T74P-6254-A when relieving tension on the belt. 2. If belt timing or tension is incorrect, loosen timing belt spring pivot bolt. 3. Hold tensioner with Camshaft Belt Tension Adjusting Tool T74P-6254-A. 4. While holding tensioner, loosen adjusting bolt and gradually release spring tension. Loosening Timing Belt Tensioner, 2.3L Tool Number 8 — 5. Using adjusting tool, pry tensioner away from belt. While holding, tighten adjusting bolt. There should be no tension on belt. Camshaft Timing Belt, 2.3L I-4 Timing Mark on Camshaft Sprocket Remove the bolts holding the crankshaft position sensor in place and pull the sensor assembly free of the dowel pin. 7. Remove the crankshaft pulley , crankshaft pulley hub and timing belt guide. 8. Remove the drive belt and inspect it for wear or damage. If the belt is damaged, replace it. 9. Remove one spark plug from each cylinder. 10. If not done: a. Loosen tensioner adjusting bolt. b. Using Camshaft Belt Tension Adjusting Tool T74P-6254-A, pry tensioner clockwise against spring tension as far as possible. c. Tighten adjusting bolt to hold tensioner in released position. 11. Align crankshaft so number one piston is at TDC (top dead center) as indicated by timing mark. 12. Line up camshaft sprocket timing mark with inner timing belt cover timing mark and key is pointing down.
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Filed Under (Chrysler) by admin on 28-12-2010
CHRYSLER ALTERNATOR See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 Fig. 1: Alternator mounting-2.2L and 2.5L engines Fig. 2: Disconnecting alternator wiring-2.2L and 2.5L engines Fig. 3: Disconnecting alternator wiring Fig. 4: Removing the pivot bolt and nut Fig. 5: Removing the alternator from the vehicle Disconnect the negative battery cable. Label and disconnect the wiring (for easy installation). Remove the air conditioning compressor drive belt, if equipped. Loosen the alternator adjusting bracket bolt and adjusting bolt. Remove the alternator belt. 5. Remove the bracket and mounting bolts. 6. Remove the pivot bolt and nut. 7. Lift the alternator from the vehicle. When lifting the alternator out of the vehicle on some years with A/C, clearance may be restricted by the condenser cooling fan assembly or the A/C compressor and mounting bracket assembly, if so, removal of one of these items will be necessary. 8. Position the alternator against the engine. 9. Install the pivot bolt and nut. 10. Install the mounting bracket bolts, and adjusting bolt. 11. Install drive belts and adjust to specification. 12. Tighten all the mounting bolts and nuts. 13. Connect all alternator terminals. 14. Connect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the wiring and label for easy installation. Remove the air conditioning compressor drive belt. Loosen the alternator adjusting bracket locknut and adjusting screw. Remove the alternator belt. 5. Remove the bracket locknut and mounting bolt. 6. Remove the pivot bolt and nut. 7. Remove the alternator from the engine. 8. Position the alternator against the engine. 9. Install pivot bolt and nut. 10. Set the mounting bracket in place and install the bracket mounting bolt and locknut. 11. Install the drive belts and adjust to specification. 12. Tighten all the mounting bolts and nuts. 13. Connect all alternator terminals. 14. Connect the negative battery cable.
Filed Under (Mitsubishi) by admin on 18-01-2011
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove engine undercover. Place wooden block between jack and oil pan, and raise engine slightly. Remove engine mount assembly near timing belt cover. 2. Remove clamp for power steering return hose near timing belt cover. Remove all drive belts and tensioner pulley bracket. See Fig. 1 . Remove power steering and water pump pulleys. Rotate crankshaft clockwise so that No. 1 cylinder is at TDC of compression stroke. Remove crankshaft pulley. CAUTION: DO NOT rotate crankshaft counterclockwise. Ensure timing marks are aligned. If reusing timing belts, mark timing belts for direction of rotation. 3. Remove upper timing belt cover and gasket. Remove stub bolt of engine support bracket, and remove center timing belt cover. Remove lower timing belt cover. NOTE: Camshaft sprocket dowel pins will be in 12 o’clock position when timing marks are correctly aligned. 4. Ensure camshaft, crankshaft and oil pump sprocket timing marks are aligned. See Fig. 2 or Fig. 3 . Loosen tensioner pulley center bolt. Move tensioner to relieve timing belt tension. Remove timing belt. Remove timing belt auto tensioner. See Fig. 1 . 5. Remove plug from left side of cylinder block. Install a .31″ (8.0 mm) diameter Phillips screwdriver into the hole against balance shaft. See Fig. 4 . Screwdriver must go in at least 2.36″ (60 mm) or more. If screwdriver will only go in about .79-.98″ (20-25 mm) before striking balance shaft, turn sprocket one revolution and align timing mark. Keep screwdriver in place until timing belt is installed. This ensures balance shaft driven by oil pump sprocket remains in correct position. 6. To remove timing belt “B” (balance shaft belt), hold crankshaft sprocket stationary with a spanner wrench. Remove crankshaft sprocket bolt. Using gear puller, remove outer crankshaft sprocket. 7. Remove crankshaft sensing blade (if equipped). See Fig. 5 . Loosen timing belt “B” tensioner bolt. If reusing timing belt “B”, mark direction of belt rotation for reassembly reference. Remove timing belt “B”.
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