bleed hydraulic clutch nissan micra
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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 08-03-2011
Removal CAUTION: Remove the entire clutch hydraulic system from the vehicle as an assembly when installing a new clutch master cylinder assembly (7C522). 1. Disconnect the clutch hydraulic tube from the dash clip. 2. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02. 3. Unlock and remove the slave cylinder (7A564) from the transmission. Compress and twist the slave cylinder to unlock it from the transmission. 4. Disconnect the clutch hydraulic tube from the floor pan clip. Position the slave cylinder and hydraulic tube forward below the left engine bank. This will make it easier to unlock the clutch master cylinder from the clutch pedal and support bracket (7B633) by reducing tension on the hydraulic tube. 5. Lower the vehicle. 6. WARNING: The clutch pedal is under spring tension. Unlock the push rod bushing retaining clips and separate the clutch master cylinder push rod from the clutch pedal. 7. Remove and discard the push rod bushing (7526). 8. Remove the switch cover, and remove the clutch pedal position switch (7C534) from the clutch master cylinder push rod. 9. Separate the power distribution box from the bracket to gain access to the clutch master cylinder. 10. Unlock and remove the clutch master cylinder from the clutch pedal and support bracket. Compress and twist the clutch master cylinder clockwise 45 degrees to unlock it from the clutch pedal and support bracket. 11. Remove the clutch hydraulic reservoir from the wiring tray and separate the clutch hydraulic tube from the brake master cylinder assembly. Position the clutch hydraulic reservoir aside. 12. CAUTION: Brake fluid is harmful to painted and plastic surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled onto a painted or plastic surface, wash the surface with water immediately. Remove the clutch hydraulic system from the vehicle. 13. Clean the clutch hydraulic system components to prevent contaminants from entering the hydraulic system. 14. CAUTION: Place a suitable container under the clutch master cylinder. Disconnect the hydraulic tube from the clutch master cylinder. 1. Using a 3/32-inch punch and a hammer, drive out the roll pin, and discard it. 2. Disconnect the hydraulic tube from the clutch master cylinder.
Filed Under (Saturn) by admin on 27-08-2010
Hydraulic Clutch Control System IMPORTANT: The clutch hydraulic system is to be serviced as a COMPLETE UNIT!!!. It is a sealed unit and has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Individual components of the system are not available for service, except the slave cylinder actuator pushrod plastic retainer strap. Do not attempt to bleed the clutch hydraulic system. The bleed screw located on the clutch hydraulic slave cylinder is used for the factory fluid fill only. WARNING: Do not attempt to bleed the clutch hydraulic unit. Any observed fittings are there for factory use only. The unit comes as a complete pre-bled unit. REMOVAL 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Block clutch pedal up to prevent pedal from being depressed with slave cylinder removed from transaxle. Remove air induction system. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery. Disconnect positive battery cable from battery Remove hold-down retaining nut and screw, and lift off battery hold-down retainer. Lift the battery of vehicle, and place in a safe location. Remove battery tray bolts and tray. IMPORTANT: One bolt is located in the fender well. NOTICE: Removal of the hydraulic damper with a power tool prior to removal of the actuator could result in breaking off the hydraulic line. IMPORTANT: Prior to removing the slave cylinder from the clutch housing, make sure that the clutch hydraulic system has sufficient fluid. Refer to the “Clutch Hydraulic Fluid Check” procedures in this manual. (This is not necessary if the clutch hydraulic system is being removed to be replaced.) 8. Rotate actuator 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward housing in order to disengage the bayonet connector and remove from clutch housing. 9. Remove two hydraulic damper to clutch housing nuts and slide damper and bracket assembly off studs.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 27-12-2010
Removal 1. Note the routing of the clutch slave cylinder to clutch master cylinder tube (7A512) line from clutch master cylinder (7A543) to the clutch slave cylinder. 2. Remove retainer pin from clutch master cylinder holding clutch slave cylinder to clutch master cylinder tube in place. 3. Raise the vehicle and install suitable safety stands. 4. Disconnect clutch slave cylinder to clutch master cylinder tube from external clutch slave cylinder. On vehicles equipped with concentric clutch slave cylinders, remove tube using Clutch Coupling Tool T88T-70522-A. Installation 1. Follow the removal procedures in reverse order. 2. Bleed system. Refer to appropriate clutch hydraulic system bleeding procedure in the Adjustments portion of this section. Hydraulic Clutch Control System, 4.9L, 5.0L and 5.8L Gasoline Engines with Mazda R2 and S5-47 ZF Light-Duty and 7.3L and 7.5L S5-47 ZF Heavy-Duty Transmissions
Filed Under (Toyota) by admin on 04-06-2011
Some customers may complain about a “squeak” or “creak” noise when depressing or releasing the clutch pedal. The clutch master cylinder clevis assembly has been improved to eliminate this condition. Repair Procedure 1. Record all radio presets before starting. 2. Disconnect the negative (–) battery terminal cable. 3. Remove the clutch pedal sub–assembly. A. Remove the front door opening trim LH (scuff plate). B. Remove the cowl side trim board. C. Remove the instrument panel finish panel lower No. 1. D. Remove the driver’s side Junction Block. E. Remove the turnover (compression) spring. F. Remove the bolt attached to the instrument panel reinforcement assembly. G. Remove the clutch pedal sub–assembly. a. Remove the bolt and nut. b. Remove the clutch pedal from the clutch pedal support. 4. Remove the clutch pedal spring holder from the clutch pedal support. 5. Remove the clutch pedal pad. 6. Remove the two (2) clutch pedal bushes from the clutch pedal. 7. Remove the clutch pedal shaft collar. 8. Using needle–nose pliers, remove the No. 1 cushion from the clutch pedal. 9. Install the clutch pedal No. 1 cushion on the NEW clutch pedal sub–assembly. NOTE: Install parts on the NEW clutch pedal sub–assembly BEFORE installing in the vehicle. 10. Install the clutch pedal shaft collar. A. Apply MP grease to the clutch pedal shaft collar. B. Install the clutch pedal shaft collar onto the clutch pedal. 11. Install the clutch pedal bushes. A. Apply MP grease to the two (2) NEW bushes. B. Install the two (2) bushes onto the clutch pedal. 12. Install the clutch pedal pad. 13. Install the clutch pedal spring holder. A. Apply MP grease to the contact surface of the clutch pedal spring holder. B. Install the clutch pedal spring holder. 14. Remove the clevis sub–assembly. A. Measure length “A” of the clutch master cylinder. a. Measure length “A” between the lock nut and the thread end with a ruler. b. Record length “A”. B. Remove the clevis sub–assembly from the master cylinder. a. Loosen the lock nut. b. Rotate and remove the clevis sub–assembly. 15. Install the NEW clevis sub–assembly. A. Rotate the lock nut to match length “A”. B. Rotate and install the NEW clevis sub–assembly to contact the lock nut. C. Tighten the lock nut and torque to specification. Torque: 11.8 NSm (120 kgfScm, 8.7 ftSlbf) D. Apply MP grease to the ball end of the clevis sub–assembly where it will contact the clutch pedal. 16. Install the NEW clutch pedal sub–assembly. A. Install the clutch pedal onto the clutch support with the bolt and nut. Torque: 34 NSm (347 kgfScm, 25 ftSlbf) HINT: Install the bolt from the left side of the vehicle. B. Apply MP grease to the clutch pedal sub–assembly where the clevis sub–assembly contacts the clutch pedal. NOTE: Failure to apply grease to the clevis and clutch pedal sub–assemblies could cause the noise to return. C. Tighten the bolt to the instrument panel reinforcement assembly. Torque: 8 NSm (82 kgfScm, 6 ftSlbf) 17. Install the turnover (compression) spring. A. Apply MP grease to the contact surface of the spring holder, clutch pedal, and spring. B. Install the spring onto the clutch pedal and spring holder.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 07-01-2011
ISSUE A “soft” unresponsive clutch pedal may be felt or the driver may be unable to release the clutch. This is caused by air entrapped in the clutch hydraulic system. ACTION Use the information in this TSB article in addition to the appropriate bleeding procedure. This article includes detail as well as extra service tips for easier hydraulic clutch bleeding. The clutch hydraulic system for the 1993 model year is new and more difficult to bleed than the previous hydraulic system. Therefore, a different bleeding procedure is required for these vehicles. RANGER, EXPLORER, AEROSTAR The most difficult systems to bleed are on the Ranger, Explorer, Aerostars. NOTE: When installing dry clutch cylinder or tube service parts, do the bench bleed procedure first. BENCH BLEED The compact vehicles are more difficult to bleed because the downward angle of the master cylinder makes it difficult for air to escape up into the reservoir. Therefore, if the master cylinder is removed from the vehicle and bled while held in a vertical orientation (a bench bleed) air can escape much more efficiently. Refer to Fig. 1 . BENCH BLEEDING PROCEDURE (CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDER) 1. Remove master cylinder, line and reservoir from vehicle and assemble with replacement parts required based on initial concern. 2. Hold the master cylinder vertically with the reservoir feed hose in the highest position on the body. See Fig. 1 . 3. Fill the reservoir and extend above the master cylinder and assure the quick connect on the clutch line is below the master cylinder. (Lightly clamp reservoir in a vise). 4. Using a small screwdriver, depress the internal mechanism of the male quick connect coupling to open the valve. See Fig. 1 . 5. Stroke and hold master cylinder pushrod. 6. Close quick connect valve. 7. Release master cylinder pushrod. 8. Fill reservoir. 9. Repeat Steps 4 through 8 four more times. 10. With the master cylinder still being held with the outlet tube and reservoir feed tube ends high, quick connect closed and the reservoir full, proceed as follows: a. Push the pushrod into the body several times quickly to expel any remaining air. b. If it is a remote reservoir, pinch the supply hose with your fingers two or three times to help move air into reservoir. 11. When the movement of the pushrod is .130″ (4mm) or less when stroked in Step 10, reinstall the master cylinder into the vehicle and couple it to the slave cylinder.