Filed Under (Hyundai) by admin on 12-03-2011
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DISASSEMBLY STEP 1. Unscrew knob and remove spring. Unsnap shift boot from neck of shifter. STEP 2. Lift up small carpet piece in rear of console. Remove bolt holding console to the car. TOOLS: Socket drive Extension 10mm socket STEP 3. Unclip (2) side panels from the front of the console. STEP 4. Remove (2) bolts securing console to center dash. TOOLS: Socket drive Extension 10mm socket STEP 5. Remove cigarette lighter/12V accessory panel and unclip wiring harness from terminals. Tabs on harness connections must be pressed to release grasp on electrical terminals. TOOL: Trim Panel Removal Tool STEP 6. Unclip trim piece near parking brake. TOOL: Trim Panel Removal Tool STEP 7. Remove console from car. STEP 8. Remove clip holding cable to shifter and slide cable off of pin. TOOL: Trim Panel Removal Tool STEP 9. Unclip ball-joint attachement on lower cable by spreading spring retainer. STEP 10. Unscrew (4) bolts from shifter base. TOOLS: Socket drive Extension 12mm socket 4 STEP 11. Gently pry edges of shifter retainers to allow removal from shifter base. TOOL: Screwdriver STEP 12. Remove shifter base from car. STEP 13. Slide out metal inserts from base bushings and remove rubber bushing. Repeat for all 4 corners. TOOL: Screwdriver STEP 14. Carefully cut off push-nut. TOOLS: Safety Glasses Rotary-tool w/ cut-off wheel STEP 15. Remove side arm assembly and spring from shifter base. Note orientation of spring. STEP 16. Squeeze locking tabs of shifter collar towards the center of the base. NOTE: It may be helpful to use a wide-blade screwdriver to pry tabs inward. Use caution not to excessively damage tabs. TOOLS: Pliers Wide-blade screwdriver STEP 17. Remove shifter collar. STEP 18. Remove rubber retaining ring.
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 28-02-2011
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1. Working in the engine bay, start removal of the stock air box by removing the bolt on the top part of the air box as pictured to the left. Use a 10 mm socket and a ratchet. Put it aside for re-install later. If you have an aftermarket intake, proceed to step #10 for battery removal. 2. Unclip the two (2) clips holding the top part of the air box as pictured to the left. 3. Unplug the MAF connector as pictured to the left. 4. Unclip the rubber hose over the intake as pictured. 5. Loosen the bolt holding the intake piping to the throttle body using a 10mm socket and a ratchet. 6. You can now remove the air box top half from the throttle body. 7. Pull on the hose on the top of the intake to remove it as pictured. 8. Working at the rear of the air box, you will see the MAF wiring is held on the box itself with a tab. Use needle nose pliers to squeeze the tab and push it out. 9. Pull up on the air box to remove it from the engine bay. Take good note of both rubber grommets where it’s installed in as it will need to be re- installed the same way. Put it aside for re-install later. 10. Pull on both tabs holding the top part of the battery box and remove it. This top part has 2 tabs at the back that are inserted in two slots on the bottom part. To remove it, lift the front part up and then slide it toward the front of the car. Put it aside for re- install later. 11. Using a 10 mm socket and ratchet, unbolt the battery holder. There is a bolt on each side of the battery. Put it aside for re-install later. 12. Unbolt both battery terminals using a 10 mm socket with a ratchet. Remove the battery from the engine bay and put it aside for re-install later. 13. Using a 12 mm socket and a ratchet, remove the three (3) bolts at the bottom holding the battery box in place. Put them aside for re-install later. 14. The two (2) grey tabs behind the battery connector on the front part of the battery box needs to be pushed out. Use needle nose pliers to squeeze them and push them out. 15. You can now remove the front part of the battery box as pictured. Put it aside for re-install later. 16. Using needle nose pliers, squeeze the plastic tab holding the wiring harness to the bottom of the battery box and push it out as pictured. 18. Repeat the same for the tab 19. Tilt the battery box toward the front of the car where the air box was. 20. You now have access to the shifter cable and shifter actuator where the short shifter will be installed. Use a long flat head screwdriver to pop the left cable out of the shifter arm. Do not apply too much force, it will come out easily. This is easier done when the shifter is in lower gears (2nd, 4th , 6th or R).
Filed Under (Mitsubishi) by admin on 24-12-2010
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Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV, V, VI, VII, VIII Mitsubishi Lancer FWD 2001 and up Mitsubishi Eclipse 2000 and up Estimated Installation Time: 30-45 Minutes Tools Required: -Philips head screwdriver -8mm wrench -10mm wrench -12mm wrench -8mm, 10mm, and 12mm sockets and ratchet -Bench vise -Grinder 1. Carefully unscrew the stock shift knob. 2. Remove ashtray and screw beneath it. 3. Remove two screws from inside the center console storage compartment. 4. Lift up on the rear section of the center console and unclip it from the front section. 5. Remove plastic screw from the driver’s side of the center console (near the gas pedal). Remove the plastic cover and the pop rivet beneath it. Then remove the two screws at the rear of the console (were hidden by the rearward part of the center console that was removed). 6. Unclip plastic connector at the rear of the console. Remove entire center console. 7. Loosen and remove the bolts at the front and rear of the plastic assembly. Note the order these parts are in as they must be replaced in the same order later in the installation. The front bolt does not need to be completely removed from the plastic assembly, only pulled out enough to allow the top part of the plastic assembly to be lifted off. Now remove the top of the assembly exposing the top of the shifter main pivot ball. 8. Remove the clip on the bottom of the shifter, which connects it to the lower shifter cable. Remove the plastic pivot cup from the lower shifter cable. Also remove the clip attaching the left side shifter cable to the shifter arm. The stock shifter can now be removed. 9. For an Evolution 8 follow this step: using a grinder, shave down the sides of the counterweight / boot support in order to remove the white plastic cup. This in no way damages the stock shifter and it is still usable after the procedure. This enables you to remove the white plastic retaining ring without any cutting.
Filed Under (Chevrolet) by admin on 18-08-2010
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Caution: Refer to Approved Equipment for Collision Repair Caution in Cautions and Notices. Caution: Sectioning should be performed only in the recommended areas. Failure to do so may compromise the structural integrity of the vehicle and cause personal injury if the vehicle is in a collision. 1. Disable the SIR system. Refer to SIR Disabling and Enabling Zones . 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure . Important: The rear floor pan service part comes as a complete panel. You must make a cut to create the needed part for sectioning. 3. Remove all related panels and components. 4. Remove the sealers and anti-corrosion materials from the repair area, as necessary. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and Repair . 5. Repair as much of the damaged area as possible. Refer to Dimensions – Body . Important: The rear seat bracket will be bent slightly out of position to allow access to the weld flanges on the #5 upper cross bar. Leave the front welds attached to aid in positioning during the Installation Procedure. Locate and drill out the factory weld spots on the top and rear portion of the bracket. Leave the front welds intact. 7. Bend the bracket upward to gain access to the spot welds on the #5 bar upper cross bar.
Filed Under (Chrysler) by admin on 01-07-2010
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1. Using suitable size allen wrench, remove the shift handle retaining screw (Fig. 251). 2. Remove shift handle from shifter assy. 3. Remove console bezel from vehicle. 5. Remove retaining clip from shift cable conduit bracket (Fig. 253). 6. Disconnect shifter cable from cable attach stud (pin) (Fig. 253). 7. Remove cable from center console routing. Leave flat on floor for ease of removal. 8. Raise hood. Remove gearshift cable from throttle/gearshift cable bracket (Fig. 254) 9. Unseat cable grommet at firewall and remove cable from interior of vehicle (Fig. 255). 10. Raise vehicle on hoist and disconnect fill tube bracket from transaxle. Rotate fill tube to gain access to shift cable clamp. 11. Remove cable from routing bracket (Fig. 256) 12. Remove cable-to-transaxle nut and slide cable off of stud (Fig. 255). 13. Disconnect shifter cable from shift lever assembly at transaxle (Fig. 255). 14. Remove cable from underneath vehicle. INSTALLATION 1. Make sure transaxle shift lever is in “Park.” This is the most rearward position. Verify park sprag is fully engaged by rotating either a tire or an axle shaft. 2. Position cable in vehicle and connect cable end to the transaxle shift lever (Fig. 255). 3. Verify that the washer (Fig. 255) is still in place on the cable mounting stud. Install cable to transaxle and tighten nut to 28 Nm (250 inch lbs.). 4. Rotate fill tube to original location. Install and tighten fill tube bracket bolt. 5. Install cable “push pin” into bracket as shown in (Fig. 254).