Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-05-2011
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Much has been written about swapping Suzuki’s G16B 1.6 liter 16-valve engine into the Samurai. It is mechanically very simple (as engine swaps go) but the wiring can be a daunting challenge for many. To date it has been necessary for the DIY builder to perform extensive research, gather all the information they can find, try to make sense of it, and take their best shot (or pay someone that has already done it). There is no one “correct” way to make this engine swap. The variations are nearly endless. Much of it involves personal preference. What is presented here is a process that is known to be successful, along with some of the more familiar options. ALL WIRING SHOULD BE DONE WITH THE BATTERY REMOVED FROM THE VEHICLE 1.1. It is HIGHLY RECCOMMENED that you purchase the appropriate Field Service Manual for your engine model year (either digital or print copy). Though there are only two sections that are relevant to a transplanted engine the information is absolutely invaluable. Much – but not all – of the required Information is also available in most aftermarket vehicle specific service manuals (Haynes, Chilton’s, etc.) The pertinent sections (6 &
of the 1996 Tracker FSM may be downloaded for free from Acksfaq.com (donations are appreciated). 1.2. 1992 through 1998 Suzuki/Geo (GM) vehicles with G16B (1.6 liter 16-valve) engines can be identified by the 8th digit in the Vehicle Identification Number. “0” for Suzuki badged vehicles, “6” for Geo’s (“U” indicates an 8-valve 1.6L). 1.3. The most common set-up, and arguably the simplest, mates a donor Tracker or Sidekick engine, with the Samurai 5- spd Manual Transmission. Donor engines with Automatic Transmissions (3 or 4 A/T) are easily rewired to work with the Samurai 5-spd M/T. Specific notations for installing the donor engine with a 3 A/T appear where necessary. The 4 A/T is significantly more complicated and is not included in these instructions. 1.4. It is preferred (but not required) that the ECM and engine be of the same model year. However, as long as the computer has all the necessary inputs and outputs it makes no difference what motor it is physically controlling. It should be noted that OBD1 vehicles (1995 & earlier) are much less complex than OBD2 vehicles (1996 & after). The earlier technology is far easier for the amateur auto electrician to manage. OBD2, being more modern, has nearly twice as many sensors & controls. Properly tuned, OBD2 engines will provide slightly more power, better fuel economy, and cleaner emissions. Replacement parts are also easier to find, but of course, are more expensive.
Filed Under (Subaru) by admin on 07-10-2010
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ACCESSORIES & ELECTRICAL CHARGING SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING Alternator Light Stays Off With Ignition Switch ON Blown fuse See WIRING DIAGRAMS Defective alternator Defective indicator light bulb or socket Alternator Light Stays OFF With Ignition Switch ON Short in alternator wiring See Testing in ALTERNATOR article See Indicator Warning Lights in STANDARD INSTRUMENTS in the ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section See On-Vehicle Tests in ALTERNATOR article Defective rectifier bridge Defective alternator wiring Lights or Fuses Burn Out Frequently Ammeter Gauge Shows Discharge Defective regulator Defective battery Loose or worn drive belt Noisy Defective wiring Defective alternator or regulator Defective ammeter, or improper ammeter wiring connection Loose drive pulley See Bench Tests in ALTERNATOR article See On-Vehicle Tests in ALTERNATOR article See Regulator Check in ALTERNATOR article Check and replace as necessary Check alternator drive belt tension and condition. See Belt Adjustment in TUNE-UP article in the TUNE-UP section Check all wires and wire connections See Bench Tests and On-Vehicle Tests in ALTERNATOR article See Testing in STANDARD INSTRUMENTS in the ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section Tighten drive pulley
Filed Under (Lexus) by admin on 27-09-2010
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To improve power door window serviceability on SC 400/300, GS 300, and ES 300, a wire regulator subassembly is now available as separate supply parts. REPAIR PROCEDURES: ^ ^ ^ Verify motor operates properly. If the motor must be replaced, change the complete regulator assembly. If motor operation is correct, replace only the regulator subassembly. Use the following procedures when replacing the subassembly. 1992 Lexus SC 400 V8-4.0L (1UZ-FE) WINDOW REGULATOR DISASSEMBLY: 1. REMOVE COVER PLATE ^ Remove the two screws and cover plate; see figure 1. Note: The screws and cover plate are reusable. ^ Pry up the cover plate tab using a small flat-head screwdriver and remove the plate. Use care not to damage the motor housing; see figure 2. Note: The cover plate is not reusable. 2. REMOVE WINDOW REGULATOR DRUM AND WIRE GUIDE FROM MOTOR HOUSING USING NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS (SEE FIGURE 3). Caution: Do not use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the drum and wire guide. WINDOW REGULATOR INSTALLATION: 1. INSERT THE WINDOW REGULATOR DRUM INTO THE MOTOR HOUSING. 1992 Lexus SC 400 V8-4.0L (1UZ-FE) Note: ^ To prevent the window regulator drum and cable from coming off, do not tilt the drum, subject it to shocks or use force. If the cable comes off the drum, do not rewind the cable or reuse it. After the window regulator is installed, do not operate it manually (some window regulators do not utilize a stopper). ^ Multipurpose grease (P/N OO289-1WG00) should be applied to all moving parts, especially inside the motor housing and sides of the window regulator drum. Type “A” holding tool
Filed Under (Chevrolet) by admin on 02-09-2010
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1. On vehicles equipped with a manual transmission, remove the shift lever. 2. On vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission, perform the following steps: 2.1. Apply the park brake. 2.2. Insert the ignition key and turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. 2.3. Depress the brake pedal and shift the transmission to the 1 position. 2.4. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Remove the left sound insulator. Remove the right instrument panel sound insulator. If the vehicle is equipped with a multiple CD changer located in the center console, remove the center console. Remove the center sound insulator. Remove the lower left instrument panel mounting bolt. Remove and retain the instrument panel storage compartment. Remove the lower right instrument panel mounting bolt. 11. Remove and retain the left and right speakers and the speaker grilles. 12. Use a flat-bladed tool in order to remove the windshield defroster grille. Retain the grille and sunload sensor for use on the next IP carrier. 13. 14. 15. 16. If equipped with a sun load temperature sensor twist the sensor 1/4 turn counterclockwise in order to disengage. Disconnect the brown electrical connection from the body control module (BCM). Disconnect the purple electrical connection from the body control module (BCM). Remove the knee bolster. 1998 Chevy Truck S10/T10 Blazer 2WD V6-4.3L VIN W 17. Remove and retain the instrument cluster. 18. Remove and retain the radio. 19. Remove the HVAC control assembly. CAUTION: Refer to SIR Handling Caution in Cautions
Filed Under (Chevrolet) by admin on 26-08-2010
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CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION This chart assumes that the battery condition and engine cranking speed are OK, and there is adequate fuel the tank. This chart should be used on engines using the Model 700 throttle body. TEST DESCRIPTION Number(s) below refer to circled number(s) on the diagnostic chart: 1. A “Service Engine Soon” light “ON” is a basic test to determine if there is a 12 volt supply and ignition 12 volts to ECM. No ALDL may be due to an ECM problem and CHART A-2 will diagnose the ECM. If TPS is over 2.5 volts the engine may be in the clear flood mode which will cause starting problems. If coolant sensor is below -30° C, the ECM will provide fuel for this extremely cold temperature which will severely flood the engine. 2. Voltage at the spark plug is checked using spark tester tool ST-125 (J 26792) or equivalent. No spark indicates a basic ignition problem. 3. While cranking engine there should be no fuel spray with injector disconnected. Replace an injector if it sprays fuel or drips like a leaking water faucet. 4. Use an injector test light like J 34730, BT-8329A or equivalent, to test injector circuit. A blinking light indicates the ECM is controlling the injector. 5. This test will determine if there is fuel pressure at the injector and that the injector is operating. DIAGNOSTIC AIDS If no trouble is found in the fuel pump circuit or ignition system and the cause of a “Engine Cranks But Will Not Run” has not been found, check for: