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All vehicles 1. Remove the valve cover. For additional information, refer to ENGINE – 6.0L DIESEL . 2. Disconnect the fuel injector electrical connector. Fig. 3: Identifying Fuel Injector Electrical Connector & Retainer Clip Late build vehicles 3. Remove the crankcase-to-head tube assembly. Remove and discard the D-ring seals. Fig. 4: Removing Crankcase-To-Head Tube Assembly Fig. 5: Identifying Bolts And High-Pressure Oil Rail 4. Remove the bolts and the high-pressure oil rail. Early build vehicles NOTE: The rings on the crankcase-to-head tube are to be used to pry the tube assembly from the branch tube assembly or the oil rail assembly. 5. Remove the crankcase-to-head tube. Remove and discard the D-ring seal.

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The purpose of this function is to enable the technician to replace a faulty injector, or injectors, and program in the value of the new injector to the Diesel Control Unit. It may also be used when a new Control Unit has been installed and the technician is required to program it with the values of the injectors fitted. The function is available on all Diesel Engine Management Systems from 2002
onwards. There are two different methods for Injector Programming on FAL: The early method gives each injector a classification of 1, 2 or 3. The classification relates to the operating conditions of the injector. The control unit stores the classification of the injectors fitted and adjusts the treatment of each injector depending on the classification. The purpose of this is to improve performance and
emissions. The Scan tool has the ability to read out the current classification of the injectors and program in the new classification.

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Removal NOTE: Removal of the vertical EGR cooler is not required to service the thermostats. 1. Remove the upper cooling fan shroud. For additional information, refer to Cooling Fan Shroud — 6.4L Diesel, Upper in this section. 2. Remove the degas bottle. For additional information, refer to Degas Bottle — 6.4L Diesel in this section. 3. Using a mirror, find the end of the upper radiator hose spring clip. Remove the spring clip, disconnect the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing and position the upper radiator hose aside. 4. Remove and discard the nut and the vertical EGR cooler lower clamp. 5. Remove the bolt and the vertical EGR cooler lower bracket. 6. NOTE: Vertical EGR cooler removed from art for clarity. Disconnect the wiring from the heater return tube. 7. Remove the 2 bolts and position out the LH heater return tube. • Remove and discard the O-ring seal. 8. NOTE: The 6.4L diesel engine uses 2 thermostats. Remove the 4 bolts, the collar and the thermostat housing. • Lift the bottom of the collar up and rotate toward the engine to remove. 9. NOTICE: If the thermostats are contaminated with engine oil, new thermostats must be installed. Reusing a thermostat that has been exposed to engine oil may result in engine overheating. Remove the thermostats and the gasket from the thermostat housing. • Discard the gasket. Installation 1. Install a new gasket and the thermostats into the thermostat housing. 2. Install the thermostat housing, the collar and the 4 bolts. • Tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in). 3. NOTE: Vertical EGR cooler removed from art for clarity. NOTE: Install a new O-ring seal. Install the LH heater return tube and the 2 bolts. • Tighten to 13 Nm (115 lb-in). 4. Connect the wiring to the heater return tube. 5. Position the lower vertical EGR cooler bracket and loosely install the bolt. 6. Install a new vertical EGR cooler lower clamp. Tighten the clamp nut in 3 stages. • Stage 1: Tighten the nut to 10 Nm (89 lb-in). • Stage 2: Loosen the nut 720 degrees (2 complete turns). • Stage 3: Tighten the nut to 8 Nm (71 lb-in). 7. Tighten the lower EGR cooler bracket bolt. • Tighten to 62 Nm (46 lb-ft). 8. Connect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing. Install the spring clip. • Verify the spring clip is correctly seated. 9. Install the degas bottle. For additional information, refer to Degas Bottle — 6.4L Diesel in this section. 10. Install the upper cooling fan shroud. For additional information, refer to Cooling Fan Shroud — 6.4L Diesel, Upper in this section.

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Common causes of camshaft timing belt failure on the above vehicles are due to incorrect operating tension, or ingress of dirt, water, or debris entering the timing belt cover. Predominantly on Fiesta models a high percentage of camshaft timing belt failures occur after the ancillary poly ‘V’ drive belt has failed, where strands of material off the broken belt have entered the timing belt cover. This is especially so where an ancillary belt has been fitted that does not contain “Kevlar” based materials. It is therefore important to always remove the timing belt cover to check for belt debris if the ancillary belt has failed. Any contamination that enters the timing belt cover can become compressed between the surfaces of the camshaft timing belt and drive pulleys. This causes wear to both the belt teeth, backing surface, and damage to the drive pulleys, resulting in premature failure of the camshaft timing belt. Later engines have modifications to improve the sealing of the belt cover around the crankshaft pulley, to reduce the level of outside contamination. Incorrect tensioning of the belt during installation will adversely affect the life of the belt. Before fitting a new belt it is important to check and observe the following points :- 1) Right Hand Inner Wing Splash Shield (Fiesta, Escort, Mondeo) This must be fitted and undamaged. 2) Timing Belt Cover Check that all components of the cover are fitted and undamaged. Ensure the latest type of modified cover is fitted. 3) a) Toothed Drive Pulleys Check that the tooth profiles are not worn or damaged. On vehicles built before January 1994 special attention should be given to the nylon toothed pulley situated below the camshaft pulley in a clockwise position on the belt drive (see diag item 4). This should be changed to a modified steel pulley (Ford No. 7053802) plus bolt (6701537). Ensure that the Camshaft and Injection Pump sprockets are free to rotate on the drive locations when the retaining bolts are slackened off. b) 4) a) b) c) Water Pump, Idler and Tensioner Pulleys Check that the belt running surfaces are not worn or damaged. Check that the flanges are running true and not damaged. Check that the water pump, and pulley bearings are in good condition, to ensure correct belt alignment. 5) Crankshaft Pulley The toothed pulley is in two parts. The rear section (Injection Pump Drive) is located onto the crankshaft by a small drive pin. The front section (Camshaft and “Poly V” belt drive) engages onto the rear pulley via a small vee protrusion on the rear face. Should the central fixing bolt for the crankshaft pulley come loose, or an old bolt re-used (Stretch bolt design), it is possible for fretting to take place damaging the locations. The crankshaft and camshaft pulleys can then move out of timing alignment, resulting in valve and piston contact damage. Replacement Procedure As the vehicle is fitted with two timing belts, one to drive the Camshaft, and one to drive the Injection Pump drives, which are driven off the crankshaft pulley, it is strongly recommended that both belts are replaced at the same time. NOTE: Special tools are required to lock the crankshaft, camshaft, and injection pump in the correct angular location when changing the belts, to ensure correct timing position. IMPORTANT: Ensure the engine is cold (not run for 4 hours) before commencing working as this will affect the setting of the timing belt tension and could lead to premature failure. Continued . . . .

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Removal 1. Disconnect the battery ground cables. 2. WARNING: RED-STRIPED WIRE HARNESS CARRIES 115V DC. SEVERE ELECTRICAL SHOCK MAY BE RECEIVED. DO NOT PIERCE. CAUTION: Do not attempt to service the fuel injector. The fuel injector is serviced as an assembly. If the fuel injector is disassembled for any reason, the calibration of the fuel injector will be inaccurate. There are two different fuel injectors used in the 7.3L DI turbo diesel engine: a 49-state injector and the California injector (rate shaped injector). These two injectors must not be interchanged because the Powertrain Control Modules are calibrated to the specific injector. Before replacing any injectors, refer to the Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) decal for proper injector selection. Failure to do so can cause poor engine performance, high emissions levels or damage to engine. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove the two (2) nuts retaining the air cleaner-outlet tube support bracket to the left valve cover. Remove the engine harness bracket from the air cleaner- outlet tube support bracket and position aside. 4. Remove and discard the crankcase ventilation hose clamp and disconnect the hose. Loosen the clamps at the turbocharger and air cleaner and disconnect the intake duct and outlet tube. 5. Remove the bolt and nut retaining the air cleaner assembly, disconnect the air intake sensor and remove the air cleaner assembly. 6. CAUTION: Do not pierce engine electrical wires or damage to the harness can occur. Remove the engine harness tie strap from the left engine-lifting bracket. 7. Remove the two (2) crankcase breather filter retaining screws and remove the crankcase breather filter from the left valve cover. 8. Remove the left valve cover. 9. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the left valve cover gasket. Remove the valve cover gasket. 10. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the left fuel injectors and the glow plugs. 11. Drain the oil from the left cylinder head by removing the internal oil rail drain plugs. 12. Remove the left oil deflectors. 13. WARNING: DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT WITH THE FUEL INJECTOR REMOVED. OIL AND FUEL WILL ENTER THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER WHICH COULD CAUSE ENGINE DAMAGE OR PERSONAL INJURY. NOTE: The shoulder bolt on the inboard side of the fuel injector does not require removal. Remove the left outboard fuel injector-retaining bolts.