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Renault Clio III Door sealing film Removal – Refitting

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Filed Under (Renault) by admin on 10-06-2011

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REMOVAL a Note: The sealing ?lm can only be used once; it is des- troyed when it is removed. It is essential to replace the ?lm with a new one each time it is removed. REMOVING THE SEALING FILM a Remove the door trim( (see Front side door trim: Removal – Refitting) (MR 393, 72A, Side opening elements trim) or( (see Rear side door trim: Remo- val – Refitting) (MR 393, 72A, Side opening ele- ments trim). a Start with the upper section of the sealing film. a Remove the heptane in small amounts between the film and the inner door panel as the film peels away (pull slowly on the sealing film). a Carefully strip off the sealing film taking care not to tear it. REFITTING a Note: Remove the adhesive residue from the inner door panel by sticking wide masking tape over the adhesive residue. Pull gently on the masking tape to remove any adhesive residue. Clean the inner door panel with heptane using a dr y, lint-free cloth. WARNING The door must be clean (free of dust, grease, anti-adhesive products), with no trace of impuri- ties and no condensation. The area of the inner door panel where the ?lm is applied must be painted completely. Adhesive surfaces should be at a minimum tem- perature of 15? in order for the ?lm to adhere pro- perly to the door. 116833 a Unclip the interior handle mounting (if the vehicle is fitted with one) using an unclipping tool. 1 – First procedure a Strip off the sealing film using a hot air gun set to ap- proximately 100? and approximately 20 cm from the film, directing the hot air flow onto the edge of the film. a Start by stripping off a corner of the sealing film. a Carefully strip off the sealing film taking care not to tear it. 2 – Second procedure a Remove the sealing film using a syringe filled with heptane. Front side door ACCESS FLAP 1 – Opening access flaps front side door 111932 Rear side door a Note: The front side door sealing ?lm incorporates two access ?aps to access the various door compo- nents and to allow the door to be straightened. Cut according to the marking on the sealing ?lm depending on the operation being performed. Depending on the operations being performed, it may be necessary to make cuts locally at the various mountings (bolts or nuts). 111945 a Position the sealing film using the guide points (1) . a Pass through the interior door handle cable (2) . a Firmly apply the film around its complete edge. a Check the water seal before refitting the door trim (see Technical Note 0653A, Bodywork fault fin- ding: Water sealing tests). a Refit the door trim( (see Front side door trim: Re- moval – Refitting) (MR 393, 72A, Side opening ele- ments trim) or( (see Rear side door trim: Removal – Refitting) (MR 393, 72A, Side opening elements trim).

1997 Ford F-250/350/Super Duty Front Wheel Grease Seal and Bearing Replacement and Repacking

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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 14-03-2011

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CAUTION: Use of incompatible bearing lubricant could result in premature lubricant breakdown. The recommended wheel bearing lubricant is the lithium-base grease High Temperature 4×4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A. Sodium-base grease is not compatible with lithium-base grease and should not be intermixed. Therefore, before lubricating front or rear wheel bearings (1225), thoroughly clean all old grease from the bearing and front disc brake hub and rotor (1102). If bearing adjustment does not eliminate looseness or rough and noisy operation, clean and inspect the front disc brake hub and rotor and bearings. If bearing cups or the cone and roller assemblies are worn or damaged, replace. Disassembly 1. Raise vehicle and install safety stands. 2. Remove the wheel and tire. Refer to Section 04-04 in the Body, Chassis Manual. 3. Remove the locking hubs. 4. CAUTION: Do not let the disc brake caliper (2B120) hang only by the hose, or damage might occur to the hose or disc brake caliper. Remove the disc brake caliper. Refer to Section 06-03 in the Body, Chassis manual. Securely wire the disc brake caliper to the frame. 5. For vehicles equipped with automatic locking hubs, remove C-ring or snap ring and three-piece thrust washers (spacers). Remove the cam assembly and wheel bearing nut retaining key. Remove wheel bearing retainer (nut) using Hub Nut Wrench T95T-1197-B. Repack the wheel bearings with the specified lubricant (grease). For vehicles with manual locking hubs, remove snap ring, three-piece thrust washers (spacers), the outer lock nut, lockwasher, and inner lock nut using Spanner Locknut Wrench D85T- 1197-A or equivalent. 6. Remove the front disc brake hub and rotor. The front outer wheel bearing will slide out as the hub is removed. 7. Remove the retaining nuts of the front wheel spindle (3105). Carefully remove the front wheel spindle from the knuckle studs and halfshaft (3A329). If necessary, lightly tap the end of the spindle with a rawhide hammer to remove. 8. Clean old grease from the needle bearings and the bore seal of the front wheel spindle. To replace spindle bearing or inner seal, refer to Section 05-03A or Section 05-03B. 9. Clean any old grease or dirt from these parts and replace if signs of excessive wear are noted. Assembly 1. Using High-Temperature 4×4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A, thoroughly lubricate the needle bearing and coat the front wheel spindles or face that mates with the seals of the front wheel spindle. 2. Assemble the front wheel spindle over the halfshaft onto the knuckle studs. Tighten the retaining nuts to 68-81 Nm (50-60 lb-ft). 3. Remove the front inner wheel bearing, wheel hub grease seal (1190) from the front disc brake hub and rotor using Bearing Cup Puller T77F-1102-A and Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100-A. Inspect bearings and replace as necessary. 4. Inspect the bearing cups for pits or cracks. If necessary, remove with a drift. If new cups are installed, install new cones and rollers. 5. Lubricate the bearings with High Temperature 4×4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford Specification ESA-M1C198-A. Clean all old grease from the front disc brake hub and rotor. Pack the cones and rollers. If a bearing packer is not available, work as much lubricant as possible between the rollers and the cages. 6. Position the front inner wheel bearing in the inner cup and install the new wheel hub grease seal using a hammer, Driver Handle T80T-4000-W and the proper seal installer.

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1997 Ford Aerostar/Ranger Wheel Grease Seal and Bearing Front Replacement and Repacking

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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 02-02-2011

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The recommended wheel bearing lubricant is lithium-base High-Temperature Constant Velocity Joint Grease E43Z-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESP-M1C207-A. CAUTION: Sodium-base grease is not compatible with lithium-base grease. Do not intermix. Clean all old lubricant grease prior to lubricating front/rear wheel bearing. Use of incompatible bearing lubricant could result in premature lubricant breakdown. NOTE: If bearing adjustment does not eliminate looseness or rough and noisy operation, clean, inspect and repack the hub and wheel bearings with specified wheel grease. If wheel bearing cup or the cone and roller assemblies are worn or damaged, they should be replaced. Manual Locking Hub, Ranger Disassembly 1. Raise the vehicle and install Rotunda Car/Truck Stands 077-00018 or equivalent. 2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. 3. Remove the retainer washers and remove the hub assembly. Refer to Manual Locking or Automatic Locking Hubs under Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment in this section for removal. 4. Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) as described in Section 06-03. 5. Remove the hub and rotor. Remove the outer wheel bearing cone. 6. Remove the wheel hub grease seal (1190) from the rotor with Seal Remover TOOL-1175-AC or equivalent and Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100-A. Discard wheel hub grease seal and replace upon assembly. 7. Remove excluder seal. 8. Remove the inner wheel bearing. 9. NOTE: If new wheel bearing cups are installed, install new cone and roller assemblies. Inspect the wheel bearing cups for pits or cracks. If necessary, remove them with Internal Puller D80L-943-A or equivalent and Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100- A. Assembly 1. Lubricate the wheel bearings with High Temperature Constant Velocity Grease E43Z-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESP-M1C207-A. Clean all grease from the hub. Pack the cones and rollers. If a bearing packer is not available, work as much lubricant as possible between the rollers and the cages. 2. If wheel bearing cups are to be installed, position wheel bearing cups in rotor and drive in place with Bearing Cup Replacer T80T-4000-P and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W. 3. Position excluder seal on spindle and drive into position using Spindle Seal Replacer T95T-3132-D. 4. Position the inner wheel bearing in the inner wheel bearing cup in the rotor. Install the wheel hub grease seal by driving in place with Seal Replacer T80T-4000-T and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W. 5. Carefully install the rotor onto the front wheel spindle (3105). Refer to Section 06-03. 6. Install outer wheel bearing into rotor. 7. Refer to Automatic Locking Hubs under Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment in this section for remainder of installation.

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2004 Ford F-150 Rear Axle Differential Cover Axle Shaft Oil Seal and Rear Wheel Bearing REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 28-02-2011

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1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-00. 2. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-00. 3. Remove the parts in the order indicated in the following illustration and table. 4. To install, reverse the removal procedure. 5. Fill the axle with the specified quantity of the specified lubricant. For additional information, refer to the Specifications in this section. Item 2: Rear Disc Brake Caliper Removal Note 1. CAUTION: Do not allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose. Provide a suitable support. Position the rear disc brake caliper aside. For additional information, refer to Section 206-00. Item 7: Differential Pinion Shaft Removal Note 1. Move the differential pinion shaft out far enough to remove the U-washers. Replace the shaft and install the lock bolt finger tight when U-washers are removed. Item 8: U-washer Removal Note 1. CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the axle shaft grooves. Remove the U-washers. 1. Push the axle shafts inboard. 2. Remove the U-washers. Item 10 and 11: Wheel Bearing Oil Seal and Axle Shaft Bearing Removal Note 1. CAUTION: Never remove the wheel bearing oil seal by itself. Always remove the wheel bearing oil seal and the rear wheel bearing at the same time. For the 8.8 inch rear axle, use the special tools to remove the rear wheel bearing and wheel bearing oil seal. 2. CAUTION: Never remove the wheel bearing oil seal by itself. Always remove the wheel bearing oil seal and the rear wheel bearing at the same time. For the 9.75 inch and the 10.25 inch rear axles, use the special tools to remove the rear wheel bearing and wheel bearing oil seal. Item 11: Axle Shaft Bearing Installation Note 1. For the 8.8 inch and the 9.75 inch rear axles, use the special tools to install the rear axle wheel bearing. 2. For the 10.25 inch rear axle, use the special tools shown to install the rear axle wheel bearing. Item 10: Wheel Bearing Oil Seal Installation Note 1. Use the special tools shown to install the rear wheel bearing oil seal. Item 8: U-washer Installation Note 1. CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the U-washer grooves. Install the U-washers. 1. Position the two U-washers on the button end of the axle shafts. 2. Pull the axle shafts outward.

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2001 Dodge Ram 2500 BEARING NOISE Testing and Inspection

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Filed Under (Dodge) by admin on 07-05-2011

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GEAR NOISE Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubricant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing not having the proper offset and squareness. Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed range. The noise can also occur during a specific type of driving condition. These conditions are acceleration, deceleration, coast, or constant load. When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then accelerate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes greatly: Check for insufficient lubricant. Incorrect ring gear backlash. Gear damage. Differential side gears and pinions can be checked by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehicle turns. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snapping or a knocking noise. BEARING NOISE The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound. Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differential. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the source. Worn or damaged differential bearings usually produce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differential bearing noise is also constant and varies only with vehicle speed. Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle. Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right. This will load the bearings and change the noise level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph. LOW SPEED KNOCK Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock. VIBRATION Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually caused by a: Damaged drive shaft. Missing drive shaft balance weight(s). Worn or out-of-balance wheels. Loose wheel lug nuts. Worn U-joint(s). Loose/broken springs. Damaged axle shaft bearing(s). Loose pinion gear nut. Excessive pinion yoke run out. Bent axle shaft(s). Check for loose or damaged front-end components or engine/transmission mounts. These components can contribute to what appears to be a rear end vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets and drive belts. All driveline components should be examined before starting any repair. DRIVELINE SNAP A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by: High engine idle speed. Transmission shift operation. Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts. Worn U-joints. Loose spring mounts. Loose pinion gear nut and yoke. Excessive ring gear backlash. Excessive side gear to case clearance. The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be determined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in isolating the source of a noise.

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