diagram of front main seal 2003 mitsubishi lancer
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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-11-2010
SYMPTOM The engine leaks oil between the block and the transmission. PROBABLE CAUSE The rear main oil seal (crankshaft oil seal) is contaminated. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the rear main oil seal (crankshaft oil seal). DIAGNOSIS Clean the area with a shop towel where the engine block and transmission meet. Start the engine, and look for oil leakage from the area with the aid of a powdered leak detector. • If you see any signs of leakage, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. • If you see no signs of leakage, then what looked like leakage may have been excess residue from a previous repair on another part. Continue with normal troubleshooting. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the transmission. Refer to section 13 or 14 of the appropriate service manual. 2. Remove and discard the rear main oil seal (crankshaft oil seal). 3. Install the new oil seal. Refer to page 7-29 of the ’96–00 service manual or page 7-27 of the ’01 service manual. 4. Reinstall the transmission. 5. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer. 6. Refill the transmission with the appropriate fluid. 7. 2001 models only. Do the idle learn procedure: • Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are turned off, then start the engine. • Let the engine warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fan cycles twice). • Let the engine idle (throttle fully closed with all electrical items turned off) for 10 minutes. 8. 2001 2-door EX and LX models only. Drive the vehicle above 40 mph for 5 to 10 minutes with the cruise control on. (This lets the cruise control actuator learn how much slack there is in the throttle cable.)
Filed Under (Mitsubishi) by admin on 05-01-2011
This manual is designed for use with the 2003 LANCER EVOLUTION VIII Service Manual Volume 2, and Volume 3, and the 2003 LANCER EVOLUTION VIII Body Repair Manual to provide complete service information for the 2003 LANCER EVOLUTION VIII. Service or maintenance of any SRS component or SRS-related component must be performed only at an authorized MITSUBISHI dealer. MITSUBISHI dealer personnel must thoroughly review this manual, and especially its GROUP 52B, Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), before beginning any service or maintenance of any component of the SRS or any SRS-related component. • •
Filed Under (Mitsubishi) by admin on 24-12-2010
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV, V, VI, VII, VIII Mitsubishi Lancer FWD 2001 and up Mitsubishi Eclipse 2000 and up Estimated Installation Time: 30-45 Minutes Tools Required: -Philips head screwdriver -8mm wrench -10mm wrench -12mm wrench -8mm, 10mm, and 12mm sockets and ratchet -Bench vise -Grinder 1. Carefully unscrew the stock shift knob. 2. Remove ashtray and screw beneath it. 3. Remove two screws from inside the center console storage compartment. 4. Lift up on the rear section of the center console and unclip it from the front section. 5. Remove plastic screw from the driver’s side of the center console (near the gas pedal). Remove the plastic cover and the pop rivet beneath it. Then remove the two screws at the rear of the console (were hidden by the rearward part of the center console that was removed). 6. Unclip plastic connector at the rear of the console. Remove entire center console. 7. Loosen and remove the bolts at the front and rear of the plastic assembly. Note the order these parts are in as they must be replaced in the same order later in the installation. The front bolt does not need to be completely removed from the plastic assembly, only pulled out enough to allow the top part of the plastic assembly to be lifted off. Now remove the top of the assembly exposing the top of the shifter main pivot ball. 8. Remove the clip on the bottom of the shifter, which connects it to the lower shifter cable. Remove the plastic pivot cup from the lower shifter cable. Also remove the clip attaching the left side shifter cable to the shifter arm. The stock shifter can now be removed. 9. For an Evolution 8 follow this step: using a grinder, shave down the sides of the counterweight / boot support in order to remove the white plastic cup. This in no way damages the stock shifter and it is still usable after the procedure. This enables you to remove the white plastic retaining ring without any cutting.
Filed Under (Mitsubishi) by admin on 20-12-2010
Exhaust System Removal Note: With a used vehicle, we suggest a penetrating spray lubricant to be applied liberally to all exhaust fasteners and al- lowing a significant period of time for the chemical to lubricate the threads before attempting to disassemble. 1. Unbolt the flange located just in front of the rear muffler as shown in. (figure 1) 2. Lubricate all the hangers and rubber isolators. 3. Using a muffler stand or an additional person to hold the rear muffler into position, remove the hangers from the rub- ber isolators and remove the rear muffler from the vehicle as shown. (figure 2) 4. Unbolt the flange located just behind the catalytic converter as shown. (figure 3) 5. Place hardware and gasket to the side for use during the installation of your new exhaust system. Using a muffler stand or an additional person to hold the front muffler assembly into position, remove the bolt from the rubber isolator and remove the front muffler assembly from the vehicle as shown. (figure 4) 1. Using the original hardware and gasket, place the muffler assembly into position as shown. Hand tighten the hardware for now. (figure 5) 2. Place a clamp over the expanded end of the intermediate pipe and set it into position as shown making sure to install the hanger into the rubber isolator. Do Not tighten the clamp. (figure 6) 3. Place a clamp over the expanded end of the tail pipe assem- bly and set it into position as shown making sure to install the hangers into the rubber isolators. Do Not tighten the clamp. (figure 7) 4. Check your exhaust system for proper clearance under the vehicle and also for tip alignment.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 06-05-2011
All vehicles 1. Remove the transmission. For additional information, refer to Section 307-01 for automatic transmissions or Section 308-03 for manual transmissions. Vehicles with manual transmission 2. Remove the clutch disc and pressure plate. For additional information, refer to Section 308-01. All vehicles IN-VEHICLE REPAIR (Continued) 3. Remove the 10 bolts and flexplate or flywheel. • Discard the bolts. 4. NOTICE: Use extreme care when removing the flywheel front adapter to prevent damage to the alignment dowel pin. Remove the flywheel front adapter. 5. NOTICE: To prevent engine damage, do not remove the rear primary crankshaft flange bolts under any circumstances. If the flange is removed and reinstalled, it will result in engine vibration and premature transmission component wear. NOTICE: Drill only deep enough to penetrate the seal. Engine damage will occur if the seal is drilled too deep. NOTE: On original service seals, if equipped, the wear ring will be removed separately. Using a center punch, mark a location for 2 holes 180 degrees apart, 9.53 mm (0.375 in) from the outer diameter of the crankshaft flange. Using a drill bit of the appropriate size for the Slide Hammer being used, drill a hole on each side of the crankshaft rear seal as shown. Drill the holes to a depth of 8.76 mm (0.344 in) to capture the metal case of the crankshaft rear seal as well as the wear ring. 6. Using the 2 drilled holes, the Slide Hammer and a commercially available body dent puller attachment, walk the seal out of the rear cover by alternating from side to side to remove the crankshaft rear seal. • Discard the crankshaft rear seal. Vehicles with an original service seal 7. NOTE: Original equipment seals will not have a wear ring. If a service part has previously been installed, it will have a wear ring. If the service part was a redesigned seal, the wear ring will have been removed with the seal in the previous step. If the service part was an original service seal, the wear ring will remain in the engine after the seal has been removed. If the wear ring remained in the engine after removing the seal, use the Crankshaft Rear Wear Ring Remover to remove and discard the crankshaft rear seal wear ring. All vehicles 8. Clean and inspect the crankshaft sealing surface. Installation Vehicles with an original service seal 1. NOTICE: The crankshaft rear seal and wear ring are a one-piece design and need to be installed as an assembly. Do not separate the wear ring from the crankshaft rear seal or damage to the seal may occur. NOTE: An original service seal will have a wear ring without a flange and pre-applied threadlock. NOTE: Apply a bead of threadlock around the circumference of the outer rear edge of the secondary crankshaft flange.