diagram of front main seal 2003 mitsubishi lancer
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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-11-2010
SYMPTOM The engine leaks oil between the block and the transmission. PROBABLE CAUSE The rear main oil seal (crankshaft oil seal) is contaminated. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the rear main oil seal (crankshaft oil seal). DIAGNOSIS Clean the area with a shop towel where the engine block and transmission meet. Start the engine, and look for oil leakage from the area with the aid of a powdered leak detector. • If you see any signs of leakage, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. • If you see no signs of leakage, then what looked like leakage may have been excess residue from a previous repair on another part. Continue with normal troubleshooting. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the transmission. Refer to section 13 or 14 of the appropriate service manual. 2. Remove and discard the rear main oil seal (crankshaft oil seal). 3. Install the new oil seal. Refer to page 7-29 of the ’96–00 service manual or page 7-27 of the ’01 service manual. 4. Reinstall the transmission. 5. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer. 6. Refill the transmission with the appropriate fluid. 7. 2001 models only. Do the idle learn procedure: • Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.) are turned off, then start the engine. • Let the engine warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fan cycles twice). • Let the engine idle (throttle fully closed with all electrical items turned off) for 10 minutes. 8. 2001 2-door EX and LX models only. Drive the vehicle above 40 mph for 5 to 10 minutes with the cruise control on. (This lets the cruise control actuator learn how much slack there is in the throttle cable.)
Filed Under (Mitsubishi) by admin on 05-01-2011
This manual is designed for use with the 2003 LANCER EVOLUTION VIII Service Manual Volume 2, and Volume 3, and the 2003 LANCER EVOLUTION VIII Body Repair Manual to provide complete service information for the 2003 LANCER EVOLUTION VIII. Service or maintenance of any SRS component or SRS-related component must be performed only at an authorized MITSUBISHI dealer. MITSUBISHI dealer personnel must thoroughly review this manual, and especially its GROUP 52B, Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), before beginning any service or maintenance of any component of the SRS or any SRS-related component. • •
Filed Under (Mitsubishi) by admin on 24-12-2010
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV, V, VI, VII, VIII Mitsubishi Lancer FWD 2001 and up Mitsubishi Eclipse 2000 and up Estimated Installation Time: 30-45 Minutes Tools Required: -Philips head screwdriver -8mm wrench -10mm wrench -12mm wrench -8mm, 10mm, and 12mm sockets and ratchet -Bench vise -Grinder 1. Carefully unscrew the stock shift knob. 2. Remove ashtray and screw beneath it. 3. Remove two screws from inside the center console storage compartment. 4. Lift up on the rear section of the center console and unclip it from the front section. 5. Remove plastic screw from the driver’s side of the center console (near the gas pedal). Remove the plastic cover and the pop rivet beneath it. Then remove the two screws at the rear of the console (were hidden by the rearward part of the center console that was removed). 6. Unclip plastic connector at the rear of the console. Remove entire center console. 7. Loosen and remove the bolts at the front and rear of the plastic assembly. Note the order these parts are in as they must be replaced in the same order later in the installation. The front bolt does not need to be completely removed from the plastic assembly, only pulled out enough to allow the top part of the plastic assembly to be lifted off. Now remove the top of the assembly exposing the top of the shifter main pivot ball. 8. Remove the clip on the bottom of the shifter, which connects it to the lower shifter cable. Remove the plastic pivot cup from the lower shifter cable. Also remove the clip attaching the left side shifter cable to the shifter arm. The stock shifter can now be removed. 9. For an Evolution 8 follow this step: using a grinder, shave down the sides of the counterweight / boot support in order to remove the white plastic cup. This in no way damages the stock shifter and it is still usable after the procedure. This enables you to remove the white plastic retaining ring without any cutting.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 06-05-2011
All vehicles 1. Remove the transmission. For additional information, refer to Section 307-01 for automatic transmissions or Section 308-03 for manual transmissions. Vehicles with manual transmission 2. Remove the clutch disc and pressure plate. For additional information, refer to Section 308-01. All vehicles IN-VEHICLE REPAIR (Continued) 3. Remove the 10 bolts and flexplate or flywheel. • Discard the bolts. 4. NOTICE: Use extreme care when removing the flywheel front adapter to prevent damage to the alignment dowel pin. Remove the flywheel front adapter. 5. NOTICE: To prevent engine damage, do not remove the rear primary crankshaft flange bolts under any circumstances. If the flange is removed and reinstalled, it will result in engine vibration and premature transmission component wear. NOTICE: Drill only deep enough to penetrate the seal. Engine damage will occur if the seal is drilled too deep. NOTE: On original service seals, if equipped, the wear ring will be removed separately. Using a center punch, mark a location for 2 holes 180 degrees apart, 9.53 mm (0.375 in) from the outer diameter of the crankshaft flange. Using a drill bit of the appropriate size for the Slide Hammer being used, drill a hole on each side of the crankshaft rear seal as shown. Drill the holes to a depth of 8.76 mm (0.344 in) to capture the metal case of the crankshaft rear seal as well as the wear ring. 6. Using the 2 drilled holes, the Slide Hammer and a commercially available body dent puller attachment, walk the seal out of the rear cover by alternating from side to side to remove the crankshaft rear seal. • Discard the crankshaft rear seal. Vehicles with an original service seal 7. NOTE: Original equipment seals will not have a wear ring. If a service part has previously been installed, it will have a wear ring. If the service part was a redesigned seal, the wear ring will have been removed with the seal in the previous step. If the service part was an original service seal, the wear ring will remain in the engine after the seal has been removed. If the wear ring remained in the engine after removing the seal, use the Crankshaft Rear Wear Ring Remover to remove and discard the crankshaft rear seal wear ring. All vehicles 8. Clean and inspect the crankshaft sealing surface. Installation Vehicles with an original service seal 1. NOTICE: The crankshaft rear seal and wear ring are a one-piece design and need to be installed as an assembly. Do not separate the wear ring from the crankshaft rear seal or damage to the seal may occur. NOTE: An original service seal will have a wear ring without a flange and pre-applied threadlock. NOTE: Apply a bead of threadlock around the circumference of the outer rear edge of the secondary crankshaft flange.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 11-05-2010
Some 1999-2004 Navigator, 2002-2003 Blackwood, 2003-2005 Aviator, 2003-2004 Marauder and 2003-2004 Mustang vehicles built before 12/19/2004 equipped with 4.6L 4V/5.4 4V engine may exhibit a runs rough, lacks power, and engine misfire, prompted by a MIL light and DTC codes P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308, and P0316. ACTION Diagnose engine for engine misfire concern. If diagnostics determine an engine misfire which is characterized by leakage through exhaust valve(s), only replace the affected cylinder head(s). SERVICE PROCEDURE