ford mondeo mk3 front strut pinch bolt
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Filed Under (Isuzu) by admin on 13-11-2010
Application Axle Housing Mounting Bolt Step 1 Step 2 Camshaft Idler Pulley Bolt Camshaft Sprocket Bolt Camshaft Timing Chain Tensioner Bolt Common Chamber Duct Bolt Connecting Rod Nut Coolant Manifold Bolt Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Cylinder Head Bolt (1) M8 M11 DIS Module Assembly Bolt Engine Hanger Bolt Nut Engine-To-Transmission Bolt EGR Valve Bolt (Manifold Side) Exhaust Manifold Bolt Nut Exhaust Pipe Bolt & Nut Stud Nut Fan Pulley Bolt Flywheel Bolt Front Plate Bolt (Timing Belt) Heater Pipe Bolt Idler Arm Retaining Bolt Lock Plate Bolt Lower Intake Manifold Bolt Main Bearing Cap Bolt (2) Main Bearing Cap Side Bolt (2) Mount-To-Chassis Bolt Oil Cooler Bolt
Filed Under (Ford, Lincoln) by admin on 17-10-2009
The instructions below can be used for the following vehicles: 2008 Ford Crown Victoria / Lincoln Town Car / Mercury Grand Marquis 2008 Ford E-series 2007-2009 Ford Edge / Lincoln MKX 2005-2008 Ford Escape / Mercury Mariner 2007-2009 Ford Expedition / Lincoln Navigator 2006-2009 Ford Explorer / Lincoln Aviator / Mercury Mountaineer 2007-2008 Ford F150, F250, and F350 / Lincoln Mark LT
2009 Ford Flex 2008-2009 Ford Focus 2006-2007 Ford Freestar / Mercury Monterey 2008-2009 Ford Fusion / Lincoln MKZ / Mercury Milan 2007-2009 Ford Mustang 2007-2009 Ford Ranger 2008-2009 Ford Taurus / Mercury Sable
1. Make sure all tires are inflated to the vehicle’s recommended inflation pressures (found in the owner’s manual on the door placard). 2. Turn the ignition switch to OFF then press and release the brake pedal. 3. Turn the ignition switch from OFF to RUN (engine OFF) 3 times, ending in the RUN position. Do this within 10 seconds. 4. Press and release the brake pedal
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 16-06-2011
Suggested Tools: Floor Jack Jack Stands (2) Sockets: 12mm, 14mm, 15mm Socket Extensions Spring Compressor Installation Steps – FRONT SPRINGS 1. Jack the front of the car up, and support with the two jack stands. 2. Remove both front wheels from the vehicle. 3. Using a 15mm socket, remove the bolt from the lower tie arm: 4. Using a 12mm socket, remove the bolt holding the brake line in place: 5. Using a 15mm socket, remove the bolt from the lower strut clamp. 6. Using a 14mm socket, remove the bolt from the lower front sway bar linkage. 7. Support the bottom of the axle so the strut does not fall down during the next step. 8. Remove the 3 14mm strut mount bolts from the top of the strut tower, under the hood. 9. The strut/spring combo can now be removed from the vehicle. Use the spring compressor to allow the removal of the stock spring from around the strut. You will want to space the spring compressor at least 3 coils between the upper and lower “hooks” of the compressor to make sure you compress the spring enough. 10. Safely remove the compressed spring from around the stock strut and uncompress the spring slowly and evenly. Repeat steps 3-10 on the other side of the car. Installation of Aftermarket Springs 11. Compress the new spring and place over the stock strut. 12. Install the stock strut/spring “Cap” and make sure to line up one of the upper boltholes with the “bracket/clamp” plate on the bottom of the strut. This is key, as the strut will not reinstall if not done properly! a. Torque the nut onto the center strut bolt as much as possible, using a pair of pliers to hold the center post still and a wrench to turn the nut. If you don’t hold the center post still, it will spin with the nut as you get closer to the bottom. You should have 2-3 threads showing if you have tightened down all the way. b. Slowly uncompress the spring and make sure everything remains lined up, including the bottom of the spring. 13. Set the wishbone on the axle. 14. Insert the strut into the car then secure the top (3), 14mm bolts through the top of the strut tower. 15. Insert the bottom of the strut into the wishbone making sure the bottom of the strut lines up properly.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 18-02-2011
Removal 1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 2. Remove the front wheel and tire assembly. 3. CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten to final torque the front stabilizer bar link-to-front shock absorber nut. Remove the stabilizer bar link retaining nut and disconnect the link from the strut. 4. CAUTION: Do not allow the halfshaft to move outboard. Over extension of the CV joint may result in the separation of internal parts, causing failure of the joint. Remove the strut assembly-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. If required, slightly spread the steering knuckle to ease the removal of the strut. Pry down on the lower control arm and roll the strut base out of the knuckle. Do not pry on the halfshaft, as damage may result. Wire the steering knuckle up to prevent the halfshaft from moving outboard. 5. Partially lower the vehicle. 6. Support the strut assembly and remove the top three mount-to-strut tower nuts. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle. 7. CAUTION: The strut assembly is under spring tension. Attempting to disassemble the strut without properly compressing the spring can result in injury. Using a suitable spring compressing tool, slightly compress the strut spring to relieve initial tension. Loosen the upper rod nut. Continue to compress the spring until the tension is relieved. Remove the upper rod nut. 8. Remove all upper mounting parts, coil spring, and coil spring isolators from the strut and save them for reassembly. Carefully note the position of each part during removal to ensure proper reassembly. Inspect each part for wear and damage as it is removed. Installation 1. CAUTION: The bearing and seal assembly is press-fit onto the upper mount. The mount washers must be installed in the correct orientation. NOTE: Be sure to check the spring insulator for damage before assembly. If the outer metal splash shield is bent or damaged, it must be carefully bent back, so it does not touch the locator on the bearing and seal assembly. NOTE: New gas struts are shipped with the rod in a locked down position. To extend the new strut, remove the external tie down and/or rotate the upper end of the rod, counterclockwise. Install the coil spring insulator, coil spring, and upper mounting parts to the new strut assembly. Make sure the spring is correctly seated in both spring seats.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 07-09-2010
FORD: 2005 Mustang 2004-2005 F-150 2005 Expedition, F-250, F-350 This article supersedes TSB 05-15-8 to update the Service Procedure. ISSUE Some vehicles equipped with a 4.6L 3-valve or 5.4L 3-valve engine may exhibit a ticking and/or knocking noise after reaching normal operating temperature. The noise may be described as “ticks”, “taps”, “knocks”, or “thumps”. In some cases the noise may be a normal characteristic of these engines. In other cases the noise may require further investigation. Sorting out and defining the noise as reported by the customer is important to successfully diagnose and/or repair the condition. ACTION Before starting diagnosis, it is critical to determine the specific engine noise the customer is concerned with. The customer should be interviewed to get their detailed perception and description of the noise, and to determine if the noise occurs at idle or above idle speed, and if the engine is cold, hot, or both. Attempt to duplicate the noise, and determine the source of the symptom. Refer to the following Service Procedure to help determine the source of the noise and if a repair is needed. LINCOLN: 2005 Navigator PRE-CHECKS 1. 2. 3.