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Inner Pivot Shaft & Bushing Replacement (C10 & G10/20 With Rubber Bushings) 1. Mount control arm assembly in a vise. Install Front Control Arm Bushing Service Set (J-24435 which must include “C” Clamp J-24435-7 , Adapter J-24435-1 , Receiver J-24435-3 , Installer J-24435-4 and Adapter J-24435-5 ) onto control arm bushing using “C” clamp and proper adapters. See Fig. 6 . 2. Tighten clamp to draw out old bushing, then discard bushing. Remove pivot shaft from control arm if necessary. Reposition control arm in vise and remove opposite side bushing. 3. Lubricate new bushing with rubber grease and position into control arm bore. Install “C” clamp and proper adapters over bushing, then tighten clamp to press bushing into position. See Fig. 6 .

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SYMPTOM When the engine is first started after the vehicle has sat overnight, customers may “feel” the release of the throttle plate through the accelerator pedal. Some describe it as a one-time “pop” sensation. Customers may have trouble explaining this phenomenon because: They can’t repeat it because it only happens one time, when the engine is cold. The accelerator pedal works normally at all other times. There are no other symptoms. It may be intermittent, happening only during cooler weather. PROBABLE CAUSE The symptom is caused by normal buildup of contaminants in the throttle bore, combined with expansion and contraction of the throttle body. CORRECTIVE ACTION Partially remove the throttle body, and clean it with Honda carburetor cleaner or throttle plate and induction cleaner. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the breather tube from the air intake duct, unclip the vacuum lines from the duct, and remove the duct from the throttle body. See Fig. 1 . Fig. 1: Removing Air Intake Duct 2. Disconnect the TPS and MAP connectors from the throttle body. 3. Remove the throttle cable and, if equipped, the cruise control actuator cable from the throttle body. 4. Remove the throttle body mounting nuts and bolts, then slide the throttle body off its studs on the intake manifold chamber. Leave the coolant hoses connected. See Fig. 2 . 5. Put a shop towel under the throttle body, open the throttle, then clean out any contaminants from the intake manifold side of the throttle body with carburetor cleaner or throttle plate and induction cleaner. See Fig. 3 . NOTE: To avoid damaging the idle air control valve (IACV), spray the cleaner through the back of the throttle body, not the front.

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Using a hydraulic press, remove both bushing and sleeve. Clean and lube I.D of control arm, install poly bushings, lube I.D of poly bushings and install supplied sleeve. LOWER LINKS and SPINDLE When pressing out bushings, it is good practice to remove and replace one at a time to maintain good rear alignment. Mark cam eccentrics prior to removal to aid in re-alignment. Use a hydraulic press and a few different tubing sizes to press out bushings from different positions. 1.400”O.D for upper control arm and rear lateral link 1.500”O.D for rear toe link and lateral link. Use a puller tool (pictured below) with a 1-5/16”O.D tubing to press out the spindle to trailing arm bushing. This can be done without removing the rear spindle from car. Lubricate the inside diameter of spindle eye and install poly bushings, lubricate inside diameter of bushing and install supplied sleeve.

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1. Before testing the power window control functions, troubleshoot the multiplex control system. Driver’s Multiplex Control Unit 2. Remove the driver’s multiplex control unit from the driver’s under-dash fuse/relay box. 3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. If the terminals look OK, go to step 4. 4. With the driver’s multiplex control unit still disconnected, make these input tests at the fuse/relay box socket. If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. 5. Reconnect the driver’s multiplex control unit to the fuse/relay box, turn the ignition switch ON (II), and perform the following input tests at the appropriate connectors on the back of the fuse/relay box. If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6.

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SYMPTOM The vehicle may have one or more of these symptoms: • Idle fluctuates between 500 and 1,500 RPM (The fluctuation is more pronounced before the engine reaches normal operating temperature.) • Shudder or judder when accelerating from a stop or just before stopping • Surging at highway speeds between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM • Excessive shock when the engine is cold and you start to accelerate • A “coo” sound, lasting about 5 to 10 seconds, after coming to a stop PROBABLE CAUSE The problem may have one or more of these causes: • TCM control unit programming is too sensitive. • The start clutch assembly is worn. • The start clutch control valve is contaminated. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the start clutch assembly, the start clutch control valve, and the TCM.REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure the work surface and the CVT are completely clean. Use lint-free towels, and use a dedicated, clean solvent tank for cleaning the CVT parts. If you do not keep everything very clean, the repair may not be successful. 1. Soak the new start clutch assembly in Honda ATF-Z1 for at least 30 minutes. NEW START CLUTCH ASSEMBLY 2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. See page 14-304 of the 1996–00 Civic Service Manual. 3. Cover with clean shop towels all of the openings in the transmission and anything else that might get damaged by water and cleaning chemicals (axle openings, breather, and electrical connectors). Clean all the dirt and grease off of the transmission before you start disassembly.