how to remove the lexus rx 300 blower moter maks noise
You are searching repair manual in PDF format about how to remove the lexus rx 300 blower moter maks noise use another keyword for search another post or files
how to remove the lexus rx 300 blower moter maks noise Direct Download speed 5787 Kb/s
how to remove the lexus rx 300 blower moter maks noise Full Version speed 6767 Kb/s
Filed Under (Mitsubishi) by admin on 30-12-2010
Disassembly (Ram-50) 1) Remove both 4WD indicator switches and steel balls. Remove speedometer gear assembly. Remove output shaft cover, gasket, wave spring and spacer. See Fig. 3. Remove rear cover, rear cover gasket and spacer from chain cover. Drive roll pin out of high-low shift fork. 2) Remove 2 seal plugs. Remove 2 poppet springs and steel balls. Shift transfer case to “4WD” and pull high-low shift rail out, in rear cover direction. Remove interlock plunger. Remove pulse generator (if equipped), front output shaft cover and pulse rotor (if equipped). Remove snap ring from rear bearing on output shaft. Remove chain cover, oil guide and side cover. Remove countershaft locking plate. Remove countershaft. 3) Remove countergear, 2 thrust washers, 2 needle bearings and spacer through side cover opening. Remove snap ring, spring retainers and spring from 2WD-4WD shift rail. Remove front output shaft, rear output shaft and chain as assembly. 4) Remove 2WD-4WD shift fork and distance piece. Drive out 2WD-4WD shift rail spring pin. Remove 2WD-4WD shift rail and lug. Remove high-low shift fork and high-low synchronizer sleeve. Remove needle bearing and snap ring from input gear. Remove input gear assembly. 5) If either control shaft or input gear oil seals are to be replaced, drive out roll pin from transmission control change shifter. Separate transfer case from adapter. See Fig. 3. Disassembly (Montero) 1) Remove dynamic damper, 5 detection switches and 3 steel balls. Remove poppet plug, spring and steel ball. Remove speedometer gear assembly. Remove output shaft rear cover, spacers, dust seal guard and oil seals. Front output shaft cover, wave spring and spacer (if equipped). 2) Remove high-low shift rail plug and high-low shift fork spring pin. Shift transfer case to “4WD”. Remove rear cover and high- low shift rail. Remove interlock plunger. Remove rear output shaft (viscous coupling) assembly and center differential assembly. Remove 2WD-4WD synchronizer assembly, chain and front output shaft from transmission as a unit. With White paint make match marks in grooves of 2WD-4WD synchronizer in 3 places. With White paint make match marks on spline projections of 2WD-4WD synchronizer sleeve in 3 places. Refer to match marks during reassembly. 3) Remove snap ring, spring seat, spring, 2WD-4WD shift fork and 2WD-4WD synchronizer sleeve. Remove differential lock hub, oil dam cover and bearing retainer. Remove side cover and gasket. Remove transfer counter gear shaft, transfer counter gear, thrust washer, needle bearings and spacer. Remove transfer drive shaft assembly. Remove high-low shift fork assembly and clutch sleeve. Remove transfer input gear assembly. 4) Remove 2WD-4WD shift lug spring pin, spring, spring retainer 2WD-4WD shift lug and shift rail. Remove input gear oil seal, baffle plate, dust seal guard and front output shaft oil seal. See Fig. 4.
Filed Under (Dodge) by admin on 07-05-2011
GEAR NOISE Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubricant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing not having the proper offset and squareness. Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed range. The noise can also occur during a specific type of driving condition. These conditions are acceleration, deceleration, coast, or constant load. When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then accelerate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes greatly: Check for insufficient lubricant. Incorrect ring gear backlash. Gear damage. Differential side gears and pinions can be checked by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehicle turns. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snapping or a knocking noise. BEARING NOISE The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound. Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differential. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the source. Worn or damaged differential bearings usually produce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differential bearing noise is also constant and varies only with vehicle speed. Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle. Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right. This will load the bearings and change the noise level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph. LOW SPEED KNOCK Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock. VIBRATION Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually caused by a: Damaged drive shaft. Missing drive shaft balance weight(s). Worn or out-of-balance wheels. Loose wheel lug nuts. Worn U-joint(s). Loose/broken springs. Damaged axle shaft bearing(s). Loose pinion gear nut. Excessive pinion yoke run out. Bent axle shaft(s). Check for loose or damaged front-end components or engine/transmission mounts. These components can contribute to what appears to be a rear end vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets and drive belts. All driveline components should be examined before starting any repair. DRIVELINE SNAP A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by: High engine idle speed. Transmission shift operation. Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts. Worn U-joints. Loose spring mounts. Loose pinion gear nut and yoke. Excessive ring gear backlash. Excessive side gear to case clearance. The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be determined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in isolating the source of a noise.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 06-03-2011
1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301) . 2. Remove two console armrest mounting access covers (047A62) at rear of console panel (045A36) (snaps out) to gain access to armrest retaining bolts. 3. Remove four armrest-to-floor bracket retaining bolts and remove armrest assembly (snaps out of console). 4. Remove console panel gear shift plate (044G24) (snaps out). On vehicles equipped with manual transmissions, shift boot is attached to bottom of finish panel. Remove shift knob and slide boot and console panel gear shift plate up shift lever to remove. 5. To remove top finish panel position emergency brake lever in the UP position. Remove four retaining screws and lift top finish panel up. Disconnect necessary wire connectors. 6. Remove two console-to-rear floor bracket retaining screws. 7. Insert a small screwdriver into two notches at bottom of front upper finish panel and snap out. 8. If the vehicle has a radio chassis (18806) , the radio chassis must be removed. Refer to Section 15-01. If the vehicle doesn’t have a radio chassis , use a small screwdriver and pry radio cover finish panel out of console. 9. Flex glove compartment bin tabs inward. Drop down glove compartment (06010) assembly. Remove two console-to-instrument panel retaining screws. 10. Remove four console bracket retaining screws. Remove console panel from vehicle. 11. Remove three bolts retaining steering column opening cover (3A673) and reinforcement panel. Remove cover. 12. Remove steering column opening reinforcement by removing two bolts. 13. Remove two bolts retaining steering column opening reinforcement and remove reinforcement. 14. Remove six steering column retaining nuts (two retaining the hood release mechanism and four retaining column to lower brake pedal support). Lower steering column to floor. 15. Remove upper and lower steering column shrouds (3530) and disconnect wiring from turn signal and windshield wiper switch (13K359) . 16. Remove steering column through bolt and nut on engine compartment side of cowl panel. Remove steering column from vehicle. 17. Remove brake pedal support nut. 18. Snap out instrument panel defroster opening grille (044E82) . 19. Remove screws from speaker covers. Snap out speaker covers. 20. Remove front screws retaining RH and LH scuff plates at cowl side trim panels. 21. Remove RH and LH cowl side trim panels. 22. Disconnect wiring at RH cowl side. 23. Remove cowl side retaining bolts (one each side). 24. Remove five cowl top screws attachments. 25. Gently pull instrument panel (04320) away from RH side of cowl panel. Disconnect speedometer cable, air conditioning controls and wire connectors. 26. Place a drain pan or suitable container under the heater water hose connections at the cowl panel. 27. Disconnect heater water hoses (18472) from heater core tubes and plug heater water hoses with suitable 5/8-inch and 3/4-inch plugs. Cap heater core tubes to prevent coolant loss from heater core (18476) during removal of heater case. 28. Remove screw retaining A/C evaporator case support bracket (19A639) to cowl top panel. 29. Disconnect vacuum supply supply hose (black) from A/C vacuum supply in engine compartment. 30. Working under the hood (16612) , remove nut retaining heater case to cowl panel. 31. Inside passenger compartment, remove screw retaining A/C evaporator case mounting bracket (19A865) to cowl top panel. 32. Remove one screw retaining A/C evaporator case mounting bracket below heater case to cowl panel. 33. Carefully pull heater case from cowl panel and remove heater case assembly from vehicle. 34. To install, reverse Removal procedure. Check operation of all components. 35. After repairs have been completed, check the coolant level in the radiator (8005) and in the radiator coolant recovery reservoir (8A080) . Fill as required with the recommended coolant mixture.
Filed Under (Lexus) by admin on 04-05-2010
Exploded View Of Timing Belt & Components Remove engine moving control rod and engine mounting bracket No. 2 (right side), located near timing belt cover. Remove generator-to-engine bracket for access to timing belt covers. 3. Using Pulley Holder (09213-54015) or equivalent and Handle (09330-00021) or equivalent, hold crankshaft pulley. Remove crankshaft pulley bolt. Using puller, remove crankshaft pulley. Remove No. 1 and No. 2 timing belt covers and gaskets. See Fig. 1 . Remove transverse engine mounting bracket from front of engine. Note direction of timing belt guide installation for reassembly reference. Remove timing belt guide. NOTE: Always turn crankshaft clockwise, as viewed from timing belt side of engine. 4. Temporarily install crankshaft pulley bolt and washer in crankshaft. Using crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate crankshaft clockwise until timing mark on crankshaft sprocket aligns with timing mark on oil pump body. See Fig. 2 .
Filed Under (Nissan) by admin on 28-11-2010
1. Release fuel pressure. See FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE . Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block. Drain engine oil. Disconnect all necessary coolant hoses, electrical connectors, vacuum hoses, fuel lines and control cables. 2. Remove front exhaust tube. Remove intake manifold collector supports, and intake manifold. Remove exhaust manifold with catalytic converter. Remove air injection valve pipe. Remove intake air duct. Remove radiator fan and shroud. Remove injectors and fuel rail as an assembly. Remove distributor cap and spark plugs. 3. Set cylinder No. 1 at TDC of compression stroke, ensuring marks on crankshaft pulley and front cover align, and distributor rotor points to spark plug wire No. 1 on cap. Remove cylinder head cover. Remove distributor. NOTE: It is not necessary to install a stopper to prevent inner or outer timing chains from disengaging sprockets. 4. Prevent camshafts from turning, and remove camshaft sprocket bolts. Remove camshaft sprocket. See Fig. 13 . Mark and remove camshaft bearing caps in reverse order of installation. See Fig. 16 . Remove camshafts. 5. Loosen cylinder head bolts in 2 or 3 steps, in reverse order of tightening sequence. See Fig. 11 . Remove camshaft sprocket cover. Remove outer (upper) chain tensioner and guide. Remove outer timing chain. Remove idler sprocket bolt. Remove cylinder head. 6. Remove oil pan and oil strainer. See OIL PAN. Remove accessory drive belts. Remove A/C compressor idler pulley (if equipped). Remove crankshaft pulley. Remove front cover. Remove chain tensioner, tensioner arm and chain guides. Remove inner (lower) timing chain and idler sprocket. Remove oil pump drive spacer and crankshaft sprocket. Inspection 1. Inspect chain roller links. Replace chain if roller links are cracked or worn. Inspect cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces for warpage. If warpage exceeds specification, machine cylinder head. See CYLINDER HEAD under ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS. 2. If machining reduces cylinder head height to less than specification, replace cylinder head. After machining, rotate camshaft by hand. Replace cylinder head if camshaft does not rotate freely. Installation