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Exploded View Of Timing Belt & Components Remove engine moving control rod and engine mounting bracket No. 2 (right side), located near timing belt cover. Remove generator-to-engine bracket for access to timing belt covers. 3. Using Pulley Holder (09213-54015) or equivalent and Handle (09330-00021) or equivalent, hold crankshaft pulley. Remove crankshaft pulley bolt. Using puller, remove crankshaft pulley. Remove No. 1 and No. 2 timing belt covers and gaskets. See Fig. 1 . Remove transverse engine mounting bracket from front of engine. Note direction of timing belt guide installation for reassembly reference. Remove timing belt guide. NOTE: Always turn crankshaft clockwise, as viewed from timing belt side of engine. 4. Temporarily install crankshaft pulley bolt and washer in crankshaft. Using crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate crankshaft clockwise until timing mark on crankshaft sprocket aligns with timing mark on oil pump body. See Fig. 2 .

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Disassembly (Ram-50) 1) Remove both 4WD indicator switches and steel balls. Remove speedometer gear assembly. Remove output shaft cover, gasket, wave spring and spacer. See Fig. 3. Remove rear cover, rear cover gasket and spacer from chain cover. Drive roll pin out of high-low shift fork. 2) Remove 2 seal plugs. Remove 2 poppet springs and steel balls. Shift transfer case to “4WD” and pull high-low shift rail out, in rear cover direction. Remove interlock plunger. Remove pulse generator (if equipped), front output shaft cover and pulse rotor (if equipped). Remove snap ring from rear bearing on output shaft. Remove chain cover, oil guide and side cover. Remove countershaft locking plate. Remove countershaft. 3) Remove countergear, 2 thrust washers, 2 needle bearings and spacer through side cover opening. Remove snap ring, spring retainers and spring from 2WD-4WD shift rail. Remove front output shaft, rear output shaft and chain as assembly. 4) Remove 2WD-4WD shift fork and distance piece. Drive out 2WD-4WD shift rail spring pin. Remove 2WD-4WD shift rail and lug. Remove high-low shift fork and high-low synchronizer sleeve. Remove needle bearing and snap ring from input gear. Remove input gear assembly. 5) If either control shaft or input gear oil seals are to be replaced, drive out roll pin from transmission control change shifter. Separate transfer case from adapter. See Fig. 3. Disassembly (Montero) 1) Remove dynamic damper, 5 detection switches and 3 steel balls. Remove poppet plug, spring and steel ball. Remove speedometer gear assembly. Remove output shaft rear cover, spacers, dust seal guard and oil seals. Front output shaft cover, wave spring and spacer (if equipped). 2) Remove high-low shift rail plug and high-low shift fork spring pin. Shift transfer case to “4WD”. Remove rear cover and high- low shift rail. Remove interlock plunger. Remove rear output shaft (viscous coupling) assembly and center differential assembly. Remove 2WD-4WD synchronizer assembly, chain and front output shaft from transmission as a unit. With White paint make match marks in grooves of 2WD-4WD synchronizer in 3 places. With White paint make match marks on spline projections of 2WD-4WD synchronizer sleeve in 3 places. Refer to match marks during reassembly. 3) Remove snap ring, spring seat, spring, 2WD-4WD shift fork and 2WD-4WD synchronizer sleeve. Remove differential lock hub, oil dam cover and bearing retainer. Remove side cover and gasket. Remove transfer counter gear shaft, transfer counter gear, thrust washer, needle bearings and spacer. Remove transfer drive shaft assembly. Remove high-low shift fork assembly and clutch sleeve. Remove transfer input gear assembly. 4) Remove 2WD-4WD shift lug spring pin, spring, spring retainer 2WD-4WD shift lug and shift rail. Remove input gear oil seal, baffle plate, dust seal guard and front output shaft oil seal. See Fig. 4.

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GEAR NOISE Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubricant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing not having the proper offset and squareness. Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed range. The noise can also occur during a specific type of driving condition. These conditions are acceleration, deceleration, coast, or constant load. When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then accelerate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes greatly: Check for insufficient lubricant. Incorrect ring gear backlash. Gear damage. Differential side gears and pinions can be checked by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehicle turns. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snapping or a knocking noise. BEARING NOISE The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound. Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differential. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the source. Worn or damaged differential bearings usually produce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differential bearing noise is also constant and varies only with vehicle speed. Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle. Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right. This will load the bearings and change the noise level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph. LOW SPEED KNOCK Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock. VIBRATION Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually caused by a: Damaged drive shaft. Missing drive shaft balance weight(s). Worn or out-of-balance wheels. Loose wheel lug nuts. Worn U-joint(s). Loose/broken springs. Damaged axle shaft bearing(s). Loose pinion gear nut. Excessive pinion yoke run out. Bent axle shaft(s). Check for loose or damaged front-end components or engine/transmission mounts. These components can contribute to what appears to be a rear end vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets and drive belts. All driveline components should be examined before starting any repair. DRIVELINE SNAP A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by: High engine idle speed. Transmission shift operation. Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts. Worn U-joints. Loose spring mounts. Loose pinion gear nut and yoke. Excessive ring gear backlash. Excessive side gear to case clearance. The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be determined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in isolating the source of a noise.

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HINT: – The installation is in the reverse order of the removal. However, when there is a special point concerning the installation, it is indicated. – When the power back door drive unit, back door w/motor lock and battery is reconnected, the back door is locked and therefore cannot be opened. Therefore, it is necessary to unlock the back door using the door control switch or transmitter switch. 1. REMOVE BACK DOOR TRIM BOARD LH a. Using a screwdriver, disengage the 3 claws and remove the trim board. HINT: Tape the screwdriver tip before use. 2. REMOVE BACK WINDOW PANEL TRIM UPPER a. Using a screwdriver, disengage the 2 claws and 7 clips, and remove the trim upper. HINT: Tape the screwdriver tip before use. 3. REMOVE ROOF HEADLINING ASSY 4. REMOVE POWER BACK DOOR DRIVE UNIT a. Remove 2 bolts A indicated in the illustration. b. Remove the 4 bolts and drive unit. c. Disconnect the connector.5. REMOVE BACK DOOR TRIM PANEL ASSY UPPER a. Using a screwdriver, disengage the 10 clips and remove the trim panel. HINT: Tape the screwdriver tip before use. 6. REMOVE BACK DOOR TRIM PANEL ASSY a. Using a screwdriver, disengage the 8 clips and remove the trim panel. HINT: Tape the screwdriver tip before use. 7. REMOVE BACK DOOR TRIM COVER RH a. Using a screwdriver, disengage the 3 clips and remove the trim cover. HINT: Tape the screwdriver tip before use. 8. REMOVE BACK DOOR TRIM COVER LH HINT: Use the same procedures described for the RH side. 9. REMOVE BACK DOOR TRIM SPACER RH a. Remove the screw. b. Using a clip remover, disengage the claw and remove the trim spacer. 10. REMOVE BACK DOOR TRIM SPACER LH

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All Vehicles 1. Remove the RH lower instrument panel insulator. 2. If equipped, remove the dealer installed air filter and brackets. 3. Remove the passenger side scuff plate. 4. Remove the passenger side kick panel. 1. Position aside the weatherstrip. 2. Remove the passenger side kick panel. 5. Disconnect and detach the electrical connector. 6. Position back the carpet. EATC Vehicles 7. Disconnect the aspirator tube and remove the screw. 8. Remove the aspirator tube extension. 1. Remove the screws. 2. Remove the aspirator tube extension. All Vehicles 9. Disconnect the electrical connector. 10. Remove the screws and remove the blower motor. 11. Remove the wheel from the blower motor. 1. Remove the clip. 2. Remove the blower wheel. 12. To install, reverse the removal procedure.