Auto Repair Manual Free Download and ReviewsFree download ebook pdf files automotive manual

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GEAR NOISE Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubricant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing not having the proper offset and squareness. Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed range. The noise can also occur during a specific type of driving condition. These conditions are acceleration, deceleration, coast, or constant load. When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then accelerate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes greatly: Check for insufficient lubricant. Incorrect ring gear backlash. Gear damage. Differential side gears and pinions can be checked by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehicle turns. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snapping or a knocking noise. BEARING NOISE The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound. Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differential. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the source. Worn or damaged differential bearings usually produce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differential bearing noise is also constant and varies only with vehicle speed. Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle. Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right. This will load the bearings and change the noise level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph. LOW SPEED KNOCK Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock. VIBRATION Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually caused by a: Damaged drive shaft. Missing drive shaft balance weight(s). Worn or out-of-balance wheels. Loose wheel lug nuts. Worn U-joint(s). Loose/broken springs. Damaged axle shaft bearing(s). Loose pinion gear nut. Excessive pinion yoke run out. Bent axle shaft(s). Check for loose or damaged front-end components or engine/transmission mounts. These components can contribute to what appears to be a rear end vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets and drive belts. All driveline components should be examined before starting any repair. DRIVELINE SNAP A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by: High engine idle speed. Transmission shift operation. Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts. Worn U-joints. Loose spring mounts. Loose pinion gear nut and yoke. Excessive ring gear backlash. Excessive side gear to case clearance. The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be determined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in isolating the source of a noise.

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Removal NOTE: Mark the pinion yoke and driveshaft to make sure the yoke and driveshaft are correctly aligned during assembly. 1. Remove the nuts and U-bolts connecting the driveshaft to the yoke. Disconnect the driveshaft from the yoke. Wire the driveshaft out of the way, so it will not interfere in the carrier removal process. 2. Remove both spindles and the Left and Right Shaft and U-joint assemblies as described in the Removal and Installation portion of this Section under Spindle and Left and Right Shaft and U-joint Assemblies. 3. Support the carrier with a suitable jack and remove the bolts retaining the carrier to the support arm. Separate the carrier from the support arm and drain the lubricant from the carrier. Remove the carrier from the vehicle. 4. Place the carrier in a Holding Fixture, T57L-500-B with Adapters T90T-4000-A. 5. Rotate the slip yoke and shaft assembly so the open side of the snap ring is exposed. Remove the snap ring from the shaft. 6. Remove the slip yoke and shaft assembly from the carrier. 7. Remove the oil seal and caged needle bearings at the same time, using Slide Hammer, T50T-100-A and Collet, D80L-100-A or equivalents. Discard the seal and needle bearing.

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Information The condenser fitted to the new Citroen C5 2008>, with technical reference code CA1542, measures 3mm less in width to 817824 (CA1458). Valeo Service can confirm that both condensers are interchangeable. 817824 reference is maintained but technical code CA1458 is replaced by CA1542. New application for 817824 – Citroen New C5 2008 on. The cause of the failure is incorrectly diagnosed as a collapsed/failed bearing, however the real cause of the bearing failure is due to thermal damage caused by a preload fault. When the diaphragm fingers are worn to excess and the bearing face does not have a contact point on the diaphragm fingers, the outer race of the bearing will contact the fingers. This causes the outer race of the bearing to turn, resulting in the carrier becoming hot and subsequently melting. (Image 2). Image 2 Contact with the fingers is made at this point, resulting in thermal bluing. Outer race will turn causing carrier to become hot and subsequently melt. The rear of the bearing will also display evidence of a heavy contact from the release fork seating pads. Heavy impressions can clearly be seen at the point the bearing locates onto the fork. (Image 3) Image 3 Heavy/deep impression from fork pads.

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Release bearing noise can be audible inside the vehicle, in certain cases on the above vehicles, when the sound absorption damper is omitted from the end of the clutch cable location to the release fork. Insufficient clutch cable tension, due to a broken clutch pedal quadrant tension spring, can cause a rattle or squeal from the release bearing, due to no pre-load being applied to the release bearing, which runs in constant mesh with the diaphragm fingers of the clutch cover. The noise normally disappears when light pressure is applied to the clutch pedal. In both cases the release bearing may not be at fault.

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Removing Cylinder head installed Remove noise insulation panel -arrows-. Remove front bumper => Repair Manual, Body Exterior, Repair Group 63 Move lock carrier to service position => Repair Manual, Body Exterior, Repair Group 50 Remove ribbed belt => Page 13-1. Remove toothed belt => Page 13-4. Left cylinder head Remove left-hand cylinder head cover => Page 15-22. Right cylinder head Remove right-hand cylinder head cover => Page 15-25 All: Unbolt Hall sensor housing (10 Nm). Remove bolt securing Hall sensor rotor (20 Nm) and carefully lever off rotor using a screwdriver. Insert camshaft clamp 3391 in securing plates of two camshafts. Loosen both camshaft bolts and remove approx. 5 turns. Take out camshaft clamp 3391. Pull off both camshaft sprockets with special tool T40001. Using a screwdriver, carefully pry oil feed lines for camshaft bearings out of camshaft bearings. Make sure that the retaining catches do not break off when prying out the oil lines. Secure camshaft adjuster using retainer for chain tensioner 3366. Note: Do not over tighten retainer for chain tensioner, otherwise camshaft adjuster can be damaged. Check TDC position of camshafts once again. Note: The two markings on the camshafts must be in line with the two arrows on the bearing caps. Clean drive chain and camshaft chain sprockets in vicinity of arrows on bearing caps and mark position of chain on sprockets with paint opposite two arrows. Note: The distance between the two arrows (and thus between the paint markings) is 16 rollers on the chain. The notch on the exhaust camshaft is offset slightly towards the inside in relation to chain roller -1-. Do not mark the chain with a center punch or by making a notch or similar.