Auto Repair Manual Free Download and ReviewsFree download ebook pdf files automotive manual

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APPLICABLE MODEL(S) / VINS 2001-2007 Truck / B-Series (2.3L Only) 2005-2006 Tribute (2.3L Only) 2003-2007 Mazda6 (2.3L Only) 2004-2007 Mazda3 (2.0L & 2.3L) 2006-2007 Mazda5 2006-2007 Mazda MX-5 2006-2007 Mazdaspeed6 2007 Mazda CX-7 2007 Mazdaspeed3 DESCRIPTION When removing or replacing the crankshaft pulley on a 2.0L (Mazda3 only) or a 2.3L engine, be sure to follow the Workshop Manual procedures. The crankshaft pulley is not keyed to the crankshaft, and when loosened, it may move out of position on the crankshaft. The engine MUST be re-timed whenever the crankshaft pulley bolt is loosened, removed, or replaced. For normal aspirated engines, follow the Workshop Manual procedures and time the engine using Special Tools (Crankshaft Alignment Pin 303-507, Camshaft Alignment Timing Tool 303-465 and a standard M6 X 1.0 X 2.25 bolt). For direct injection spark ignition engines, follow the Workshop Manual procedures and time the engine using Special Tools (Crankshaft Alignment Pin 303-507, Camshaft Alignment Timing Tool 303-1061 and a standard M6 X 1.0 X 2.25 bolt). Please refer to the Mazda Job Aid on MS3 under Training titled “Engine Timing Verification and Correction LF2.0L and L3/L3T 2.3L” for more information. CAUTION: Engine damage will occur if the engine is not re-timed properly. Refer to applicable Workshop Manual (Section 01-10 – MECHANICAL – 2.0L (Mazda3 only) or 2.3L). NOTE: Damage to an engine caused by not following proper Workshop Manual procedures may result in denial of warranty claims or back charges.

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Suggested Tools: Floor Jack Jack Stands (2) Sockets: 12mm, 14mm, 15mm Socket Extensions Spring Compressor Installation Steps – FRONT SPRINGS 1. Jack the front of the car up, and support with the two jack stands. 2. Remove both front wheels from the vehicle. 3. Using a 15mm socket, remove the bolt from the lower tie arm: 4. Using a 12mm socket, remove the bolt holding the brake line in place: 5. Using a 15mm socket, remove the bolt from the lower strut clamp. 6. Using a 14mm socket, remove the bolt from the lower front sway bar linkage. 7. Support the bottom of the axle so the strut does not fall down during the next step. 8. Remove the 3 14mm strut mount bolts from the top of the strut tower, under the hood. 9. The strut/spring combo can now be removed from the vehicle. Use the spring compressor to allow the removal of the stock spring from around the strut. You will want to space the spring compressor at least 3 coils between the upper and lower “hooks” of the compressor to make sure you compress the spring enough. 10. Safely remove the compressed spring from around the stock strut and uncompress the spring slowly and evenly. Repeat steps 3-10 on the other side of the car. Installation of Aftermarket Springs 11. Compress the new spring and place over the stock strut. 12. Install the stock strut/spring “Cap” and make sure to line up one of the upper boltholes with the “bracket/clamp” plate on the bottom of the strut. This is key, as the strut will not reinstall if not done properly! a. Torque the nut onto the center strut bolt as much as possible, using a pair of pliers to hold the center post still and a wrench to turn the nut. If you don’t hold the center post still, it will spin with the nut as you get closer to the bottom. You should have 2-3 threads showing if you have tightened down all the way. b. Slowly uncompress the spring and make sure everything remains lined up, including the bottom of the spring. 13. Set the wishbone on the axle. 14. Insert the strut into the car then secure the top (3), 14mm bolts through the top of the strut tower. 15. Insert the bottom of the strut into the wishbone making sure the bottom of the strut lines up properly.

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90 Nm + 45 ° ( 1 / 8 ) additional turn. loosening and tightening Remove any paint residue and/or corrosion in the threads of outer joint before screwing on nut. 3 – Phillips-head screw 4 – Brake disc Notes for repairing 5 – Brake caliper Do not remove brake hose when working on front wheel suspension Hang with wire or similar means Replace brake pads 6 – Metal countersunk screw 7 – Wheel hub Pressing out Pressing in Remove bearing inner race 8 – Rotor for speed sensor Only on vehicles with ABS Front brakes – brake caliper Girling, servicing Brake pads, removing and installing 9 – Hex bolt, 10 Nm 10 – Cover plate 11 – Securing ring Check for proper seating 12 – Wheel bearing Pressing out Replace, destroyed during ejection Pressing in 13 – Self-locking hex nut, 35 Nm 14 – Wheel bearing housing 15 – Ribbed bolt, 125 Nm 16 – Drive axle Removing and installing Servicing 17 – Multipoint socket head bolt, 45 Nm 18 – Hex bolt Camber setting Drive axle with triple rotor joint, removing and installing Drive axle, servicing Camber of front wheels, adjusting Mark installation position before loosening 19 – Hex bolt 20 – Bracket 21 – Stop 22 – Self-locking hex nut, 60 Nm unbolt and bolt in 23 – Suspension strut Disassembling and assembling 24 – Self-locking hex nut, 95 Nm 25 – Tie rod Removing and installing Front suspension strut – Basic/Plus suspensions, servicing Tie rod – power steering gear, TRW and ZF, removing and installing

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Valve clearance [Engine cold] Compression Front oil seal press-in amount Cylinder Head Bolt Length L Cylinder Head Bolt Maximum Oil control valve resistance Ignition timing Idle speed Idle mixture Oil pressure (reference value) [oil temperature: 100° C {212°F}] Engine oil capacity (approx. quantity) (AT, 5MT) Engine oil capacity (approx. quantity) (AT, 5MT) Engine oil capacity (approx. quantity) (6MT) Engine coolant capacity (approx. quantity) Cooling system cap valve opening pressure Thermostat initial-opening temperature Thermostat full-open temperature Thermostat full-open lift Cooling fan motor current Fuel line pressure 250 kPa {2.55 kgf/cm2 , 36.2 psi} or more Fuel injector resistance 11.4-12.6 ohms [20°C {68°F}] Fuel injector leakage amount Less than 1 drop/2 min Fuel injection volume 204-216 ml {204-216 cc, 12.5-13.1 cu in}/min Battery electrolyte specific gravity [20°C {68°F}] 1.22-1.29 Battery load test current 46B24L (36): 135 A Battery back-up current Vehicles with immobilizer system: 25-45 mA Vehicles without immobilizer system: 30 mA or less Battery slow charge current 46B24L (36): 3.5-4.5 A Battery quick charge current [30 min,] 46B24L (36): 25 A Terminal B: B+ Terminal P: Approx. 1 V or less Generator standard voltage [IG-ON] Fuel hold pressure

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1) Remove covers on both sides of hatch. (below) 2) Use a 10mm socket (with extension) to remove the nuts that secure the rear tail lamps. (right) 3) Remove both of the rear tail lamps. This may require a small amount of force as there are plastic ball/socket joints that hold the lamps in place. Once the lamps are free, disconnect the wiring harnesses from the bulb sockets. (right) 4) Use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the large fasteners that secure the rear bumper underneath the car. They are somewhat difficult to remove. (left) 5) Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the screws that secure the rear bumper to the fenders. The screws are just above the wheel where the rear bumper meets the fender. (right) 6) Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the screws that secure the rear bumper to the wheel well liner. The screws are underneath the car at the very rear of the wheel wells. (left)