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Valve timing procedures Valve timing procedures Ensure crankshaft at TDC on No.1 cylinder. Ensure crankshaft pulley timing mark aligned with 0° timing mark on chain cover [1]. Ensure notch on camshaft points upwards [2]. If notch not visible, turn crankshaft one more turn. Install timing gears as follows: Ensure crankshaft gear and intermediate shaft gear timing marks aligned [3]. Install LH balancer shaft [4]. Ensure timing marks on intermediate shaft gears and LH balancer shaft gear aligned [5] & [6]. Ensure RH balancer shaft gear and oil pump gear timing marks aligned [7]. Install oil pump housing complete with RH balancer shaft. Ensure timing marks on oil pump gear and crankshaft gear aligned [8]. Install injection pump as follows [9] : Ensure notch on injection pump gear aligned with mark ‘T’ on flange [10]. During installation of injection pump: Notch on gear moves in direction of arrow. Install timing chain as follows:

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Function The original intercooler for the L200 is quite small. Because of this the cooling capacity is low and the pressure drop is considerable. When increasing the power output of the L200 engine the boost air temperature must be kept as low as possible, while it has a great influence in performance as well as engine durability. Charge air cooling also has a positive effect on exhaust emissions from diesel engines. The pressure drop through the charge air cooler lowers the air mass flow trough the engine. To maximize air mass flow is essential to increase performance. The sttemtec charge air cooler upgrade maximizes the cooling capacity and minimizes the pressure drop of the charge air cooler without any negative effects of the vehicle. List of content 1. Charge air cooler 2. Air hose 3. Bag, Brackets and rubber mountings for intercooler Installation Installation preparations 1. Perform test drive with verification of general engine functions. 2. Wash engine bay with special attention to radiator and intercooler (wash, compressed air). System installation Remove the radiator grille by first remove the four plastic clips and then the claws by pulling out and up.

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Follow the general directions in order to fit M-348 tow bar properly: 1.Rear bumper removing and cutting is not required. 2.Remove double towing lug from chassis rail (will no longer be used). 3.Remove plastic shield at the right wheel arch. 4.Loosen exhaust silencer. 5.Remove plastic grille under air conditioner. 6.Remove air conditioner. 7.Put (3) to the inside of the right chassis rail and tight loosely using (11) (fitting from the outside of the chassis rail) with (8), (13) and (9) (fitting from the inside of the support) with (15) and (13). 8.Put (4) to the inside of the left chassis rail and follow directions similarly as in point 7. 9.Put (5) and (6) to the right and left chassis rail from the downside and tight loosely using (9) with (15) and (13). Attach (5) and (6) with (3) and (4) using (10) with (7) (fitting from the outside) and (15), (13) and (17) (fitting from the outside). 10.Insert (1) between (3) and (4) and tight loosely using (10) with (15), (13) and (17). 11.Attach (2) to the tow ball holder using (12) with (16), (14) and (18). 12.Tighten all nuts and bolts to the torque staked in the table. 13.Refit all elements that were removed (points 2-5). Obeying this instruction assures correct montage and the tow bar operating in a Mitsubishi Pajero LWB. After assembling of the tow bar M-348 you have to get entry in cars registration book in a quality control station . CAUTION : Check if all bolts and nuts are correctly tightened after 1000km. Keep tow ball clean, grease and cased. All mechanical damages of tow bar excludes its further exploitation . Damaged ball hook cannot be repaired. In case of braking the rules of montage or unproper usage manufacturer do not take responsibility for arised damages . MONTAGE DIAGRAM :

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The 1st picture shows the plastic cover where the ECU is placed – This is located in the passenger’s foot well. Remove the plastic screw and than the plastic cover. The ECU is fitted high up on the upper side. Pull out the green connector, which is placed nearest to the passenger’s feet. Connect the wires from the box to the corresponding wires on the connector. It could be that the colours on the connector are different. In this case follow up the pin numbers. Pin 1 is shown in the graphic below if you look at the contacts and not on the wires. Pin11: green/white Pin10: red Pin9: blue Pin8: black Pin7: red Pin6: white Pin5: black =>purple (From ND-Power) Pin4: red =>white (From ND-Power) Pin3: white Pin2: orange/green Pin1: black/red (thick wire) 22 View to the Contact site of the connector. Connect the purple wire to the Pin 5 (black). Connect the white wire to the Pin 4 (red). The black wire is connected to the chassis ground. Finally you have to connect the red wire to the red/black or red wire from the white connector shown on the second picture. All connections are now finished. Place the box near to the ECU and replace the plastic cover and the plastic screw. If you wish to switch off the more power from the module, you have to remove the jumper inside the Box and connect the small grey wires to a (between) switch. If the switch is closed the box gives out his more power. If the switch is open, the car runs with the performance from the manufacturer. 12

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If you plan to have ago yourself, first read the wise words of our fellow members further on (the photos below show the EGR valve in a 2.5TD engine! shouldn’t be much different in a 2.8TD): Here it goes: Before you start, it makes it easier if you remove the small pipe going into the top of the EGR valve and the AutoTrans. dipstick out of the way 1- unbolt the two bolts (size 12) facing the auto trans dipstick (Photo 1) 2- Once loose use one hand to completely unbolt, … use the other hand to stop the metal gasket falling of behind the EGR valve! (Photo 2) 3- Once the long bolts are out, remove (slide) the metal gasket out and give it a clean (Photo 3) * If you want to remove the valve completely and give it a good clean, then you need to unbolt two more bolts below the valve… not impossible but it takes more time (which I didn’t have) so I left those untouched… there is enough gap between the EGR valve and the inlet to do the job! 4- Have a drink (mine was Pepsi )… using the metal gasket outlines on a piece of paper, creat your blocking metal sheet (Photos 4 & 5) 5- Wrap a clean cloth around a long thin screwdriver and give the “gap” between the valve and the inlet a good clean… lots of black tar there! 6- Place the blocking metal and the original gasket in the gap! (Photo 6) 7- Bolt and place the autotrans dipstick & valve pipe back!