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ISSUE Some 2003-2007 Crown Victoria Police Interceptors and Taxi Vehicles may exhibit a reduction in power at wide open throttle (WOT) when accelerating from a stop, particularly after extended idle. ACTION If the customers concern is a lack of power at WOT especially after prolonged idle and possible accompanied with a malfunction indicator light (MIL) on with diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0191, remove and clean the fuel tank and replace the fuel pump. NOTE VEHICLE MAINTENANCE ITEMS SUCH AS RESTRICTED IN-LINE FUEL FILTERS CAN CAUSE SIMILAR CUSTOMER COMPLAINTS AND SHOULD BE ELIMINATED AS POTENTIAL CAUSES BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH THIS TSB.

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Some of the vehicles affected by this campaign may contain a fuel tank assembly valve that may not close properly. This TSB provides the procedure to remedy this condition by installing an additional fuel tank assembly valve. For Sonata and XG350 vehicles (Please see pages 8-10 for Elantra and Tiburon vehicles): 1. Raise the vehicle. 2. Remove the three muffler hangers and support the rear muffler after it has been lowered 6 inches. NOTE: Do not allow the muffler to hang unsupported. Do not lower the muffler more than 6 inches. 3. Remove the rear suspension crossmember mounting bolts and lower the suspension crossmember. 4. Support the fuel tank using a jack stand. 5. Remove the left rear fuel tank band nut and lower the band from the mounting stud. 6. Disconnect the vapor hose from the ‘Y’ shaped tube. 7. Cut about 4 inches (100mm) from the end of the vapor hose as shown. Discard the 4 inch piece that you have removed. 8. Install the new valve bracket mounting hole over the fuel tank band stud and connect the cut end of the vapor hose to the lower nipple of the new valve. NOTE: The valve must be positioned above the mounting bracket, as shown. 9. Connect the upper hose from the new valve to the ‘Y’ shaped tube where the vapor hose was removed. 10. Install the fuel tank band over the valve bracket and tighten the nut. Torque Specification: Fuel Tank Band Nut (40-50 lb-ft, 54-68 Nm, 550-690 kg-cm) 11. Support the rear suspension using a crossmember jack. Carefully raise the suspension being sure not to make contact with the fuel tank. Tighten the four suspension mounting bolts after aligning the bolt holes and torque to specification. Torque Specification: Rear crossmember to body mounting bolt (74-88 lb-ft, 100-120Nm, 1000-1200kg-cm) 12. Reinstall the rear muffler. 13. Lower vehicle. For Elantra and Tiburon vehicles (Please see pages 3 – 7 for Sonata and XG350 vehicles): 1. Raise the vehicle. 2. Support the fuel tank using a jack stand and remove the rear fuel tank band nuts and lower the bands from the mounting studs. Using the jack, lower the fuel tank about 4 inches (100 mm) to obtain working space. 3. Disconnect the vapor hose in between the valve and the 3 way connector.

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Fuel tank gauge assembly ContentsPage Fuel tank gauge assembly Contents Page 19C RESERVOIR Sender unit: Removal – Re?tting Pump-sender unit-?lter: Removal – Re?tting 19C-1 19C-18 Procedure for removal of fuel tank gauge assembly. X84, and J84, and F9Q or K9K or M9R Special tooling required Mot. 1397 Universal spanner for removing fuel gauge nut Tightening torquesm battery cover mounting bolts 4 Nm IMPORTANT During this operation: – refrain from smoking or bringing red hot objects close to the working area, – beware of fuel splashes when disconnecting the unions, – protect sensitive areas from fuel out?ow. Remove the seat mountings (3). Move the carpet to one side. REMOVAL Disconnect the battery, starting with the negative terminal. Remove the rear seats (see MR 371 Bodywork, 76A, Rear seat runners and frames, Second row complete rear seat). 4 2 Remove the soundproofing pads (4). 1 104617 Remove: – the clips (1), 104620 Remove the panel (5). 104204 Remove: – the receiver unit (7) mounting bolts, – the receiver unit assembly. 6 8 104203 Disconnect the receiver (6) (if fitted to the vehicle). 104545 Remove the inspection flap blanking cover (8). 105006 Disconnect: – the electrical connector (9), – the quick-release unions (10). Prepare for fuel outflow. Fit the correct blanking plugs into the unions (see MR 370 Mechanical systems, 13B, Diesel injec- tion: Cleanliness guidelines). Remove the nut from the sender using tool (Mot. 1397)(11). Remove the sender unit, being careful with the float. WARNING Re?t the sender nut as soon as the sender has been removed to prevent any deformation of the fuel tank. REFITTING Replace the O-ring seal. Refit the sender unit by aligning mark (12) on the sender with mark (13) on the tank. Position the nut (15). Tighten the nut (15) until mark (14) on the nut is ali- gned with mark (13) on the tank and mark (12)on the sender. Proceed in the reverse order to removal. Connect the battery starting with the positive termi- nal (see MR 370 Mechanical systems, 80A, Batte- ry: Removal – Refitting). Tighten to torque the battery cover mounting bolts (4 Nm).

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Common causes of camshaft timing belt failure on the above vehicles are due to incorrect operating tension, or ingress of dirt, water, or debris entering the timing belt cover. Predominantly on Fiesta models a high percentage of camshaft timing belt failures occur after the ancillary poly ‘V’ drive belt has failed, where strands of material off the broken belt have entered the timing belt cover. This is especially so where an ancillary belt has been fitted that does not contain “Kevlar” based materials. It is therefore important to always remove the timing belt cover to check for belt debris if the ancillary belt has failed. Any contamination that enters the timing belt cover can become compressed between the surfaces of the camshaft timing belt and drive pulleys. This causes wear to both the belt teeth, backing surface, and damage to the drive pulleys, resulting in premature failure of the camshaft timing belt. Later engines have modifications to improve the sealing of the belt cover around the crankshaft pulley, to reduce the level of outside contamination. Incorrect tensioning of the belt during installation will adversely affect the life of the belt. Before fitting a new belt it is important to check and observe the following points :- 1) Right Hand Inner Wing Splash Shield (Fiesta, Escort, Mondeo) This must be fitted and undamaged. 2) Timing Belt Cover Check that all components of the cover are fitted and undamaged. Ensure the latest type of modified cover is fitted. 3) a) Toothed Drive Pulleys Check that the tooth profiles are not worn or damaged. On vehicles built before January 1994 special attention should be given to the nylon toothed pulley situated below the camshaft pulley in a clockwise position on the belt drive (see diag item 4). This should be changed to a modified steel pulley (Ford No. 7053802) plus bolt (6701537). Ensure that the Camshaft and Injection Pump sprockets are free to rotate on the drive locations when the retaining bolts are slackened off. b) 4) a) b) c) Water Pump, Idler and Tensioner Pulleys Check that the belt running surfaces are not worn or damaged. Check that the flanges are running true and not damaged. Check that the water pump, and pulley bearings are in good condition, to ensure correct belt alignment. 5) Crankshaft Pulley The toothed pulley is in two parts. The rear section (Injection Pump Drive) is located onto the crankshaft by a small drive pin. The front section (Camshaft and “Poly V” belt drive) engages onto the rear pulley via a small vee protrusion on the rear face. Should the central fixing bolt for the crankshaft pulley come loose, or an old bolt re-used (Stretch bolt design), it is possible for fretting to take place damaging the locations. The crankshaft and camshaft pulleys can then move out of timing alignment, resulting in valve and piston contact damage. Replacement Procedure As the vehicle is fitted with two timing belts, one to drive the Camshaft, and one to drive the Injection Pump drives, which are driven off the crankshaft pulley, it is strongly recommended that both belts are replaced at the same time. NOTE: Special tools are required to lock the crankshaft, camshaft, and injection pump in the correct angular location when changing the belts, to ensure correct timing position. IMPORTANT: Ensure the engine is cold (not run for 4 hours) before commencing working as this will affect the setting of the timing belt tension and could lead to premature failure. Continued . . . .

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After examining the fuel pumps returned under claim for the above vehicles, it has been found that a high percentage of returns have no operating fault found with them. The normal complaint is “not pumping”, or “fuel starvation”. In some cases the fault may be cured when a new fuel pump is fitted, but returns shortly afterwards. There are two common causes of these symptoms on the vehicle, besides the fuel pump: 1) The Rubber Fuel Supply Pipe This may be perished or weakened, resulting in a partial or total collapse of the internal bore, restricting the fuel flow. The perishing of the pipe can also lead to air leaks on the suction feed to the fuel pump, so that the pump sucks air as well as fuel, reducing the lift efficiency of the fuel pump. 2) The In-Line Fuel Filter The filter should be changed at intervals of 20,000miles (32,000Km). Failure to do so will result in a build up of sediment particles blocking the filter, reducing the fuel flow. This is especially so on older vehicles where corrosion takes place within the fuel tank and metal feed pipes. In order to ensure that the fuel feed system operates at its full potential, it is recommended that both of the above items are checked, and/or replaced, before fitting a new fuel pump.