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Fig. Fig. 1: Starter motor no-load test connections 3. Low free speed and high current draw indicates: Too much friction. Tight, dirty, or worn bushings, bent armature shaft allowing armature to drag. Shorted armature. This can be further checked on a growler after disassembly. Grounded armature or fields. Check further after assembly. 4. Failure to operate with high current draw indicates: A direct ground in the terminal or fields. “Frozen” bearings. 5. Failure to operate with low or no current draw indicates: Open solenoid windings. Open field circuit. This can be checked after disassembly by inspecting internal connections and tracing the circuit with a test lamp. Open armature coils. Inspect the commutator for badly burned bar after disassembly. Broken brush springs, worn brushes, high insulation between the commutator bars of other causes which would prevent good contact between the brushes and commutator. 6. Low no-load speed and low current draw indicates: High internal resistance due to poor connections, defective leads, dirty commutator and causes listed under Step 6. 7. High free speed and high current drain usually indicate shorted fields. If shorted fields are suspected, replace the field and frame assembly. Also check for shorted armature using a growler. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5.7L (VIN 8) Engine See Figures 2 through 20 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 3. For 1984-88 vehicles, perform the following: a. Remove the retainers and the flywheel cover. Fig. Fig. 2: The flywheel cover is retained with 4 bolts Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the bolts, then lower the flywheel cover. It will probably take some maneuvering to get the cover out 2. If necessary for access, unbolt the exhaust system from the manifold and behind the catalytic converter, then remove it from the vehicle.

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INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Remove the steering column covers. Refer to section 17 of the appropriate service manual. 2. On the lower side of the ignition switch, look at the interlock cylinder cover: • If the cover is square, the ignition switch was already replaced with an updated part, and a key interlock repair kit is not needed. Go to step 3. • If the cover is round, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. REPAIR NOT NEEDED REPAIR IS NEEDED 3. Reinstall the steering column covers. 4. Center-punch a completion mark above the seventh character of the engine compartment VIN. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove and discard the plastic cover from the ignition switch key interlock solenoid. 2. Note the position of the interlock solenoid plunger; you’ll need to install it the same way. 3. Remove the screw from the solenoid, but keep the solenoid attached to its electrical connector. Discard the screw. NOTE: • Be careful not to lose the solenoid plunger; it slides out easily. • Keep the plunger free of dirt and grease while it’s removed from the solenoid. 4. Note the position of the interlock lever spring; you’ll need to install the new spring the same way. 5. Attach the slide hammer to the interlock lever pin, and tighten the slide hammer clamping bolt. Then use the slide hammer to remove the pin. Discard the pin, the lever, and the spring.