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Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 23-09-2010
Installation All vehicles NOTE: CAUTION: Install new D-ring seals on the crankcase-to-head tube. It requires several hours after installation for the D-ring seals to relax back to their original size. If the tube assembly is installed before the D-ring seals have relaxed, damage to the D-ring seals can occur. Late build shown, early build similar. Fig. 10: Installing New D-Ring Seals On Crankcase-To-Head Tube Assembly 1. Install new D-ring seals on the crankcase-to-head tube assemblies. CAUTION: If the fuel injector oil inlet D-shaped O-ring is damaged, a new fuel injector must be installed. Fig. 11: Identifying Fuel Injector O Rings And Electrical Connector Install new O-ring seals and copper washer on the fuel injector. Lubricate the fuel injector and O-ring seals liberally with clean engine oil. CAUTION: Failure to tighten the injector correctly can lead to engine failure. CAUTION: To prevent engine damage, do not use air tools to install the fuel injectors. The snap ring that extracts the injector can dislodge and fall into the oil drain hole.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 15-02-2011
Removal 1. Remove fuel tank (9002) as described. 2. Remove any dirt that has accumulated around fuel pump module retaining flange. 3. Turn fuel pump module locking retainer ring counterclockwise using Fuel Tank Sender Wrench 310-002 (T74P-9275-A) and remove fuel pump module locking retainer ring. 4. Pull fuel pump module sender plate up out of fuel tank until locking tabs for fuel pump module are accessible. Reach through fuel pump module opening, squeeze both locking tabs together and remove fuel pump module from fuel tank . 5. Remove O-ring seal and discard. Installation 1. Clean fuel pump module retaining flange, fuel tank mounting surface and seal ring groove. 2. Apply a light coating of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-BA on a new O-ring seal to hold it in place during assembly and install O-ring in seal ring groove. 3. Install fuel pump module carefully into fuel tank to make sure that filter, hoses and float rod are not damaged or binding. Align fuel pump module and fuel tank retainer and push fuel pump module into fuel tank retainer. A definite click will be heard when the two tabs on fuel pump module engage the fuel tank retainer. The fuel pump module must be snapped in the retainer with both tabs. Pull on fuel pump module to make sure it is fully engaged. Install fuel pump module sender plate to fuel tank , being careful that locating keys are in keyways and O-ring seal remains in place. 4. Hold assembly in place and install fuel pump module locking retainer ring finger-tight. Make sure that all locking tabs are under fuel pump module locking retainer ring tabs. 5. Secure fuel pump module unit by rotating fuel pump module locking retainer ring clockwise using Fuel Tank Sender Wrench 310-002 (T74P-9275-A) until fuel pump module locking retainer ring contacts the stops. 6. Install fuel tank in vehicle as described. 7. Lower vehicle. 8. Install a minimum of 38 liters (10 gallons) of fuel. Check for leaks. 9. Turn ignition switch to RUN position for three seconds repeatedly (5 to 10 times) until Multiport Fuel Injection (MFI) Fuel Pressure Gauge 310-012 (T80L-9974-B) or equivalent (depending upon application) shows at least 207 kPa (30 psi). Check for leaks at fittings. 10. Remove Multiport Fuel Injection (MFI) Fuel Pressure Gauge 310-012 (T80L-9974-B) or equivalent (depending upon application), start engine and recheck for leaks.
Filed Under (Mitsubishi) by admin on 19-12-2010
Torque converter rebuilders have been reporting an increase in the number of failed ring gears on Mitsubishi Galant convert- ers. Most of the failed ring gears are found on 2006-2008 vehicles equipped with V6 engines, and the failures seem to occur soon after the vehicle’s starter has been replaced. Prior to the ring gear failures, most custom- ers report hearing a noise during startup followed by a starter non-engagement condi- tion. In most vehicles, the starter ring gear is located on the outer diameter of the flex plate; when a ring gear fails, the flex plate must be replaced. On most Mitsubishi Galants, the ring gear is mounted directly on the converter, which makes it more difficult and much more expensive to replace. If the mileage of the vehicle or the appearance of the ATF makes the condition of the trans- mission questionable, replacing the converter and overhauling the transmission may be a better option than simply replacing the converter. If it is a low-mileage vehicle and the ATF appears to be in good condition, it is possible to replace only the ring gear.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 06-05-2011
All vehicles 1. Remove the transmission. For additional information, refer to Section 307-01 for automatic transmissions or Section 308-03 for manual transmissions. Vehicles with manual transmission 2. Remove the clutch disc and pressure plate. For additional information, refer to Section 308-01. All vehicles IN-VEHICLE REPAIR (Continued) 3. Remove the 10 bolts and flexplate or flywheel. • Discard the bolts. 4. NOTICE: Use extreme care when removing the flywheel front adapter to prevent damage to the alignment dowel pin. Remove the flywheel front adapter. 5. NOTICE: To prevent engine damage, do not remove the rear primary crankshaft flange bolts under any circumstances. If the flange is removed and reinstalled, it will result in engine vibration and premature transmission component wear. NOTICE: Drill only deep enough to penetrate the seal. Engine damage will occur if the seal is drilled too deep. NOTE: On original service seals, if equipped, the wear ring will be removed separately. Using a center punch, mark a location for 2 holes 180 degrees apart, 9.53 mm (0.375 in) from the outer diameter of the crankshaft flange. Using a drill bit of the appropriate size for the Slide Hammer being used, drill a hole on each side of the crankshaft rear seal as shown. Drill the holes to a depth of 8.76 mm (0.344 in) to capture the metal case of the crankshaft rear seal as well as the wear ring. 6. Using the 2 drilled holes, the Slide Hammer and a commercially available body dent puller attachment, walk the seal out of the rear cover by alternating from side to side to remove the crankshaft rear seal. • Discard the crankshaft rear seal. Vehicles with an original service seal 7. NOTE: Original equipment seals will not have a wear ring. If a service part has previously been installed, it will have a wear ring. If the service part was a redesigned seal, the wear ring will have been removed with the seal in the previous step. If the service part was an original service seal, the wear ring will remain in the engine after the seal has been removed. If the wear ring remained in the engine after removing the seal, use the Crankshaft Rear Wear Ring Remover to remove and discard the crankshaft rear seal wear ring. All vehicles 8. Clean and inspect the crankshaft sealing surface. Installation Vehicles with an original service seal 1. NOTICE: The crankshaft rear seal and wear ring are a one-piece design and need to be installed as an assembly. Do not separate the wear ring from the crankshaft rear seal or damage to the seal may occur. NOTE: An original service seal will have a wear ring without a flange and pre-applied threadlock. NOTE: Apply a bead of threadlock around the circumference of the outer rear edge of the secondary crankshaft flange.
Filed Under (Saturn) by admin on 01-10-2010
Automatic Transaxle 2-3 Shift Flare During First Minutes of Driving After Cold Soak (Perform Bulletin Procedure) Models: 2002 Saturn S-Series Vehicles with Automatic Transaxle (RPOs MP6, MP7) Attention: General Manager, Fixed Operations Manager, Parts Manager, Technician Condition: Some customers of 2002 S-series vehicles with MP6 or MP7 automatic transaxles may comment on a 2-3 shift flare during the first few minutes of driving after vehicle cold soak. Cause: This condition may be caused by improper pressure, a leak in the 2nd clutch circuit, improper clutch plate finish on 2nd and 3rd clutches, a restriction in the 3rd clutch oil delivery path in the end cover, or improper surface finish in the piston bores of the 2-3 clutch housing. Correction: To correct this condition, duplicate by cold soaking the vehicle the amount of time at temperature described by the owner. Refer to procedure in this bulletin. Service Procedure Verify proper transaxle pressures by installing gauge and performing stepped pressure test after cold soak. Refer to “Stepped Pressure Test” procedure in the 2002 Saturn S-Series Automatic Transaxle Service Manual. ^ If pressures are low, follow the diagnostic chart for DTC P0745 for possible causes of low pressure. Refer to “P0745 – PC Solenoid Pressure Low” diagnostic in the 2002 Saturn S-Series Automatic Transaxle Service Manual. ^ If pressures are within normal ranges, proceed to Step 2. Remove the transaxle end cover. Refer to “End Cover Replacement” in the 2002 Saturn S-Series Automatic Transaxle Service Manual. Check torque on input shaft nut and end cover 3rd clutch oil passage for restrictions. ^ Input shaft nut torque should be 150 N.m (111 ft-lb). If nut is found to be loose, remove nut, clean threads and install new nut using Service Manual procedures and proceed to check 3rd oil passage. ^ Check 3rd oil passage in the end cover by pouring transaxle fluid through it and another passage. If the passage is restricted, you will notice significantly less fluid flow through it. If 3rd clutch passage is found to be restricted, install new end cover per Service Manual procedures and retest for concern. ^ If nut and 3rd clutch passage are okay, proceed to Step 4. Remove transaxle from vehicle. Refer to “Transaxle Removal” in the 2002 Saturn S-Series Automatic Transaxle Service Manual. Disassemble transaxle and install new 2-3 clutch housing, clutch pistons and clutch plates. Refer to “Transaxle Disassemble” in the 2002 Saturn S-Series Automatic Transaxle Service Manual.