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Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 16-06-2011
DESCRIPTION Some vehicles may experience a body vibration when driving approximately 55mph. This symptom is due to the characteristics of the No. 3 & No. 4 engine mounts. Modified No. 3 & No. 4 engine mounts have been established for service only. Customers having this concern should have their vehicle repaired using the following repair procedure. REPAIR PROCEDURE IMPORTANT NOTE: • This repair should only be performed if all tires and rims are confirmed to be in balance and all suspension components are in proper working condition. • Notify customers that use of the modified mounts will reduce vibration at cruising speed but may increase vibration at idle. NOTE: Because idle vibration may increase, it is highly recommended to continue using mass production mounts for all other service concerns. 1. Verify concern. 2. Replace the No. 3 & 4 engine mounts with service parts according to the appropriate Workshop Manual section 01-10 ENGINE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION. 3. Center the new engine mounts as outlined in ENGINE MOUNT CENTERING PROCEDURE. 4. Verify repair. ENGINE MOUNT CENTERING PROCEDURE No. 1, No. 3 and No. 4 Engine Mount Adjustment 1. Warm up the engine. 2. Raise and support vehicle on a hoist. 3. Remove engine under cover. 4. Lower the vehicle until the front tires lightly touch the ground. 5. Secure the engine and transaxle using an engine jack and attachment as instructed in No.3 Engine Mount And No.4 Engine Mount Rubber Installation Note in appropriate Workshop Manual, section 01-10 MECHANICAL. 6. Remove two bolts from No. 3 engine mount bracket. REMOVE THE BOLTS 7. Lift engine using jack until No.3 engine mount is lifted slightly from vehicle body. NOTE: • Do not raise engine too much or A/C pipe damage may occur. 8. Move the engine mount rubber or engine until installation hole on the vehicle body aligns with hole in the engine mount bracket. ENGINE MOUNT BRACKET 1532c SHOWN BEFORE ALIGNING THE HOLES SHOWN AFTER ALIGNING THE HOLES 9. Lower the jack and tighten bolts on No. 3 engine mount bracket. Tightening torque: 55.0-77.3 ft-lbf (74.5-04.9 N.m) NOTE: 10. With engine supported as described in STEP 5, remove four (4) nuts and two (2) bolts from No. 4 engine mount top plate. Remove top plate. NOTE: 11. Lift engine again using jack until No.4 engine mount is lifted slightly from vehicle body. NOTE: 12. With top plate of No. 4 engine mount removed, move engine mount bottom plate or engine until all four (4) installation studs on the vehicle align with the engine mount holes. • Do not allow the engine mount bracket to be misaligned. • To access the mount, remove battery box. • Do not raise engine too much or A/C pipe damage may occur. ALIGN THE 4 STUDS IN THE PLATE HOLES 13. Place top plate back on and tighten No. 4 engine mount bracket nuts and bolts to torque indicated. Tightening torque: A.32.5-45.0 ft-lbf (44.0-61.0 N.m) B.61.1-86.7 in-lbf (6.9-9.8 N.m) TIGHTEN BOLTS IN SEQUENCE SHOWN 1532e 14. Lift engine again using jack and loosen the two bolts on the No. 1 engine mount rubber until slightly loose on the No. 1 engine mount rubber.
Filed Under (Toyota) by admin on 20-05-2011
Introduction IMPORTANT It is mandatory that the VVT-i gear actuator bolts, actuator center section alignment, and actuator body be inspected BEFORE performing this TSB. If no concerns are noted with these parts, this TSB does NOT apply. Some 2005 – 2009 model year vehicles with 2GR-FE engines may exhibit a ticking/clicking type noise from the cylinder head cover area which may be accompanied by a MIL “ON” and one or more VVT-i related Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). Please use the following repair procedure to address customer concerns. Inspection Procedure 1. Start the engine and listen for any ticking/clicking type noises coming from the VVT-i gear area of the engine. NOTE This condition may or may not be accompanied by one or more of the following DTCs stored in the Engine Control Module (ECM) (SAE term: Powertrain Control Module/PCM): • P0014: Camshaft Position “B” – Timing Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1) • P0015: Camshaft Position “B” Timing Over Retarded (Bank 1) • P0017: Crankshaft Position Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor B) • P0018: Crankshaft Position Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 2 Sensor A) • P0024: Camshaft Position “B” – Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2) • P0025: Camshaft Position “B” – Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2) 2. Remove the cylinder head cover and inspect the exhaust VVT-i gear assembly on the affected cylinder bank. NOTE If NO concerns are found with the VVT-i gear actuator bolts, the actuator center section alignment, or actuator body, this TSB does NOT apply. Refer to Repair Manual procedures for further diagnosis. Repair Procedure 1. If any concerns are noted with the exhaust VVT-i gear bolts or actuator follow the four steps below: A. Replace the camshaft housing sub-assembly, exhaust camshaft, and exhaust VVT-i gear assembly on the affected bank. B. Inspect the intake VVT-i gear assembly and bolts on the affected bank. Replace the intake VVT-i gear assembly if necessary. C. Inspect the opposite bank exhaust VVT-i gear actuator and bolts. If any concerns are noted replace the opposite bank camshaft housing sub-assembly, exhaust camshaft, and exhaust VVT-i gear assembly. D. Inspect the opposite bank intake gear actuator assembly and bolts. Replace the intake VVT-i gear assembly if necessary. For complete disassembly procedures refer to the Technical Information System (TIS), applicable model and model year Repair Manual: • 2005 Avalon: Engine/Hybrid System – Engine Mechanical – “Engine Mechanical: Camshaft (LH Bank) / (RH Bank) (2GR-FE): Replacement” • 2006 / 2007 / 2008 / 2009 Avalon: Engine/Hybrid System – Engine Mechanical – “2GR-FE Engine Mechanical: Engine Unit: Disassembly” • 2007 / 2008 / 2009 Camry: Engine/Hybrid System – Engine Mechanical – “2GR-FE Engine Mechanical: Engine Unit: Disassembly” • 2008 / 2009 Highlander: Engine/Hybrid System – Engine Mechanical – “2GR-FE Engine Mechanical: Engine Unit: Disassembly” • 2006 / 2007 / 2008 / 2009 RAV4: Engine/Hybrid System – Engine Mechanical – “2GR-FE Engine Mechanical: Engine Unit: Disassembly”
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 06-04-2011
Engine Front Cover If the engine front cover (6019) is being removed to check timing chain deflection, refer to Timing Chain Deflection Procedure as outlined in Section 03-00. SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Crankshaft Damper Remover Vibration Damper and Seal Replacer T82L-6316-A Vibration Damper Remover Adapter Removal 1. Remove engine (6007) from vehicle. Refer to procedure in this section. 2. Loosen drive belt tensioner (6B209) and drive belt (8620) . 3. Remove water pump pulley retaining bolts and water pump pulley (8509) . 4. Remove retaining bolts and disconnect heater water outlet tube (18663) from water pump (8501) . 5. Disconnect electrical connector at camshaft position sensor. 6. Disconnect electrical connector at crankshaft position sensor (CKP sensor) (6C315) . 7. Remove retaining bolt and disconnect radiator lower hose tube (8291) from water pump . NOTE: If the vibration damper and crankshaft pulley have to be separated, mark the vibration damper and crankshaft pulley so that they may be reassembled in the same relative position. This is important as the vibration damper and crankshaft pulley are initially balanced as a unit. NOTE: If the vibration damper is being replaced, check if the original vibration damper has balance pins installed. If so, new balance pins (6A328 or equivalent) must be installed on the new vibration damper in the same position as the original vibration damper. The crankshaft pulley (new or original) must also be installed in the same relative position as originally installed. 8. Remove crankshaft pulley (6312) and vibration damper assembly using Crankshaft Damper Remover T58P-6316-D and Vibration Damper Remover Adapter T82L-6316-B. 9. Remove four retaining bolts and remove brace from A/C bracket and P/S bracket. 10. Remove oil bypass filter (6714) . Tool Number T58P-6316-D T82L-6316-B CAUTION: The engine front cover cannot be removed without lowering the oil pan (6675) . 11. Remove oil pan . Refer to procedure in this section. CAUTION: Do not overlook the engine front cover retaining bolt located behind the oil pump and filter body (6603) . The engine front cover will break if pried upon and all retaining bolts are not removed. 12. Remove engine front cover retaining bolts. It is not necessary to remove water pump . 13. Remove engine front cover and water pump as an assembly. 14. Remove engine front cover gasket and discard. Water Pump Tightening Sequence Installation NOTE: Lightly oil all bolt and stud bolt threads before installation except those specifying special sealant. 1. Clean gasket surfaces on the engine front cover and cylinder block (6010) . If reusing the engine front cover , replace crankshaft front seal (6700) . Refer to Crankshaft Pulley and/or Damper and/or Crankshaft Front Seal in this section. 2. If a new engine front cover is to be installed: Install oil pump and filter body . Clean water pump gasket surface. Position a new water pump housing gasket (8507) on the engine front cover and install water pump . Install water pump retaining bolts. Tighten to 20-30 Nm (15-22 lb-ft). 3. Lubricate crankshaft front seal with clean engine oil XO-10W30-QSP or -DSP or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M2C153-E. NOTE: Gasket and Trim Adhesive D7AZ-19B508-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M2G52-A is recommended to hold the engine front cover gasket (6020) in position while the engine front cover is installed. 4. Position a new engine front cover gasket on the cylinder block and install the engine front cover / water pump assembly using dowels for proper alignment. 5. Install the engine front cover retaining bolts. Tighten to 20-30 Nm (15-22 lb-ft). Install the capscrew (Part No. N804841) nearest the oil bypass filter flange last, and tighten last. Apply Loctite® or equivalent to bolt prior to installation. Refer to illustration under Step 13 of removal procedure. 6. Install oil pan as outlined. 7. Install oil bypass filter . 8. Coat pulley sealing surface with clean engine oil XO-10W30-QSP or -DSP or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M2C153-E. NOTE: When using silicone rubber sealer, assembly must occur within 15 minutes after sealer application. After this time, the sealer may start to setup, and its sealing effectiveness may be reduced. 9. Apply a small amount of Silicone Gasket and Sealant F1AZ-19562-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M4G320-A2 to crankshaft keyway. 10. Position crankshaft key (6B316) in the crankshaft keyway.
Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-05-2011
Much has been written about swapping Suzuki’s G16B 1.6 liter 16-valve engine into the Samurai. It is mechanically very simple (as engine swaps go) but the wiring can be a daunting challenge for many. To date it has been necessary for the DIY builder to perform extensive research, gather all the information they can find, try to make sense of it, and take their best shot (or pay someone that has already done it). There is no one “correct” way to make this engine swap. The variations are nearly endless. Much of it involves personal preference. What is presented here is a process that is known to be successful, along with some of the more familiar options. ALL WIRING SHOULD BE DONE WITH THE BATTERY REMOVED FROM THE VEHICLE 1.1. It is HIGHLY RECCOMMENED that you purchase the appropriate Field Service Manual for your engine model year (either digital or print copy). Though there are only two sections that are relevant to a transplanted engine the information is absolutely invaluable. Much – but not all – of the required Information is also available in most aftermarket vehicle specific service manuals (Haynes, Chilton’s, etc.) The pertinent sections (6 & 8) of the 1996 Tracker FSM may be downloaded for free from Acksfaq.com (donations are appreciated). 1.2. 1992 through 1998 Suzuki/Geo (GM) vehicles with G16B (1.6 liter 16-valve) engines can be identified by the 8th digit in the Vehicle Identification Number. “0” for Suzuki badged vehicles, “6” for Geo’s (“U” indicates an 8-valve 1.6L). 1.3. The most common set-up, and arguably the simplest, mates a donor Tracker or Sidekick engine, with the Samurai 5- spd Manual Transmission. Donor engines with Automatic Transmissions (3 or 4 A/T) are easily rewired to work with the Samurai 5-spd M/T. Specific notations for installing the donor engine with a 3 A/T appear where necessary. The 4 A/T is significantly more complicated and is not included in these instructions. 1.4. It is preferred (but not required) that the ECM and engine be of the same model year. However, as long as the computer has all the necessary inputs and outputs it makes no difference what motor it is physically controlling. It should be noted that OBD1 vehicles (1995 & earlier) are much less complex than OBD2 vehicles (1996 & after). The earlier technology is far easier for the amateur auto electrician to manage. OBD2, being more modern, has nearly twice as many sensors & controls. Properly tuned, OBD2 engines will provide slightly more power, better fuel economy, and cleaner emissions. Replacement parts are also easier to find, but of course, are more expensive.
Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 31-12-2010
Engine Options for the Samurai There are a number of possibilities for changing the engine in your Samurai, depending on where you live and what you want to accomplish. Suzuki Sidekick or Geo Tracker I (1989-1995) – The block from the 1.6 8-valve Sidekick or Tracker can be swapped in easily. This is by far the simplest upgrade, requiring modified engine mounts, transmission adapter plate, and provision (some sort of lift, or an adaptation from a G12 series engine) for the oil pan. Intake and Exhaust Manifold will fit, and finally the addition of an electronic fuel pump since the 1.6 head does not have lobes on it for the fuel pump. Petroworks can supply almost all necessary parts required for this task. Motors are a little harder to come by though. The next level to this swap would be the use of the Sidekick/Tracker Throttle Body intake system. This is a much more complex task and requires the complete under hood wiring harness, parts of the under dash harness, and computer from a donor car. Modification of the harness is required to install it into the Samurai. TR Also, the Speedometer cluster needs to be modified on the Samurai to add in a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). This is needed by the computer to adjust timing during operation. Suzuki Swift – This is a G13 series engine with a counterbalanced crankshaft, twin overhead cams and fuel injection. One of the easier swaps to make, requiring only some minor wiring changes and a hole in the Samurai’s firewall for the horizontally mounted distributor (this engine was originally designed for a transverse mounting). Suzuki Sidekick or Geo Tracker II (1993-1995) – The motor from these cars are 1.6 16v, multiport fuel-injected. These motors are usually found in 4 door cars and will say “16 Valve” On the valve cover, Timing Belt cover or injector manifold. This is a much more complicated swap and requires a lot of wiring to interface with the Samurai harness.