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The above application is prone to the timing belt teeth lifting off the belt in service due to operating the belt with insufficient tension. The following instructions have been produced to assist in the fitting of your new timing belt, giving simple hints and tips, which should help avoid problems caused by adopting an incorrect fitting / adjustment procedure. For instructions for the removal of the engine components required to gain access to the timing belt, please refer to the vehicle workshop manual. Note:- Incorrect tension of the timing belt, can lead to the teeth lifting from the belt, resulting in belt failure, and subsequent major engine damage. Special Tools Required: 1) Timing belt tension gauge, (accurately calibrated), Part No’s: either Rover KM4088 or Borroughs BT33-86F 2) Two 8mm Allen keys (for tensioner adjustment) 3) Short length of round steel bar (for flywheel timing location) Fitting Procedure: 1) Before the old timing belt is removed, the crankshaft should be rotated clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the edge of the metal bracket, which forms part of the lower timing belt cover (See I). To lock the crankshaft in this position, which is 90 degrees before top dead centre, insert a steel rod of the correct diameter into the hole on the gearbox / engine adaptor plate, positioned on the front facing lower edge of the cylinder block (See diagram B), and locate with the corresponding hole in the flywheel. The timing marks on the camshaft gears should now be aligned at the 3 o’clock position for the left hand gear, and the 9 o’clock position for the right hand gear (See II). Undo the timing belt tensioner Allen bolt and remove tensioner. The old timing belt can now be removed (See III). Check the condition of the geared teeth on the camshaft, crankshaft, and water pump drives. Check the tensioner, water pump, and idler bearings. Fit the new timing belt over the drive gears, ensuring the timing marks set at ‘I’and‘II’ have not moved. Refit the tensioner using the anti-slip washer ‘IV’ supplied with the new timing belt. The anti-slip washer should be fitted between the tensioner and the backplate, with the abrasive side facing towards the tensioner. Note: A new anti-slip washer must always be fitted. Non modified vehicles will not have the anti-slip washer fitted. Rotate the tensioner, using the Allen key drive to set the initial pre-load tension, sufficient to prevent the timing belt from slipping over the toothed drives, then tighten the Allen bolt to 45Nm.

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NOTE: Refer to the exploded view under the assembly procedure in this section. The 5.4L (3V) is a V-8 engine with the following features: Single overhead camshafts Three valves per cylinder Sequential Multi-Port Fuel Injection (SFI) Aluminum cylinder heads Cast iron, 90-degree V-cylinder block Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) Individually chain-driven camshafts with a hydraulic timing chain tensioner on each timing chain Distributorless ignition system Electronic Returnless Fuel System (ERFS) Engine Identification Always refer to these labels when installation of new parts is necessary, or when checking engine calibrations. The engine parts often differ within a Cubic Inch Displacement (CID) family. Verification of the identification codes will make sure that the correct parts are obtained. These codes contain all the pertinent information relating to the dates, optional equipment and revisions. The Ford Master Parts Catalog contains a complete listing of the codes and their application. Engine Cylinder Identification Exhaust Emission Control System Operation and necessary maintenance of the exhaust emission control devices used on this engine are covered in the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual. Induction System The SFI system provides the fuel/air mixture needed for combustion in the cylinders. The 8 solenoid-operated fuel injectors: are mounted in the intake manifold. meter fuel into the air intake stream in accordance with engine demand. are positioned so that their tips direct fuel just ahead of the engine intake valves. supply fuel from the fuel tank with a fuel pump mounted in the fuel tank. Valve Train The valve train operates as follows: Ball-tip hydraulic lash adjusters provide automatic lash adjustment. Roller followers ride on the camshaft lobe, transferring the up-and-down motion of the camshafts to the valves in the cylinder heads. Positive Crankcase Ventilation System

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Customer Concern: Tests/Procedures: Potential Causes: Tech Tips: Loss of engine coolant, and smokes out the tailpipe. No external coolant leaks. 1. If the engine does not appear to be burning the coolant, suspect a leaking Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) cooler. 2. Remove the EGR valve from the intake. Pressurize the cooling system and lift the rear end of the vehicle. Look for any coolant to puddle in the intake where the EGR mounts. If any coolant is seen, replace the EGR cooler. 3. If no leaks are seen with the EGR removed, drain the coolant level down and pressurize the cooling system. Then with a stethoscope and long hose, listen for air in the exhaust or in the intake where the EGR mounts. If present, again replace the EGR cooler. Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Cooler NOTE: refer to Ford Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 09-8-3 for tips on addressing cooling system problems. It is generally recommended to also replace the oil cooler heat exchanger if an EGR cooler failure has occurred.

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The block assembly starts with the engine block having the crankshaft, cam, and pistons installed (part 2). The disassembly and evaluation is covered in part 1. Most parts tolerances can be found in the I&T Shop Manual FO-4. This “how to” is not intended to replace a good technical manual like the I&T FO4, rather it’s intended to be a companion with many more photos, tips, and provide a general assembly sequence. Technical specs were intentionally omitted when they vary by block/design changes. The engine shown here has been tanked (dunked in hot tank of cleaner), decked (top milled off to true up surface), and line bored. The crankshaft was re-ground. The rods were trued by the machine shop and new wrist pin bushings were installed and reamed. The pistons are used but in like new condition and most valve components and rings were replaced. This motor apparently had been recently rebuilt by the original owner who passed away. The previous (to me) owner purchased it and drove it home parking it in a field where it sat many years before I bought it. While I got it to run the compression was poor as was the oil pressure. The compression problem was due to rusted exhaust valves and seats (from setting), and poor oil pressure due to a mismatched oil pump and rod caps. On the plus side the sleeves and pistons were like new.

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Customer Concern: Tests/Procedures: Potential Causes: Tech Tips: Diagnostic Codes: The check engine light is on with a trouble code P1140. 1. Check the right side (passenger side) Intake Valve Timing Control Position (IVTCP) sensor for 12 volts on the Black/White wire. 2. Check the IVTCP sensor for a good ground on the Black wire. 3. Scope the Yellow/Green signal wire and look for a square wave signal of around 8 volts. Check the pattern of the right side sensor and if unsure of the pattern, compare it to the left bank sensor. IVTCP Sensor Wiring — IVTCP sensor wiring/connection. This code is for the right (passenger) bank IVTCP Sensor or sensor circuit. The right and left bank sensors can be swapped from side to side to see if the code will follow the sensor. The sensor is on top of the timing cover. P1140