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Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 05-03-2011
Rear spoiler drilling procedure 1. Cut template ? along the dotted line using scissors. 2. Attach template ? to the trunk lid / liftgate using tape, aligning it with the line just before the trunk lid / liftgate curves. 3. Punch the trunk lid / liftgate through the center of the crosshairs on template ?. (2 locations on each side) CAUTION • Do not punch the trunk lid / liftgate hard, otherwise it may deform. 4. Remove template ? from the trunk lid / liftgate. 5. Drill out the punched points using a 3mm drill bit. 6. Enlarge 3mm holes to the following size using an appropriate drill bit. 3mm?9mm (2 locations) CAUTION • The drill bits are extremely sharp. Use care when handling the bits to prevent injuries. • When drilling, wrap the drill with adhesive tape to prevent damage to the vehicle. 7. Remove burrs completely from around the back of the holes using a round file. 8. Using IPA (Isopropyl alcohol) , remove grease from around the holes and apply touch-up paint for rust prevention. CAUTION • Completely remove particles from the trunk and cabin, otherwise the particles may rust the body or cause abnormal noise. Stay damper removal / installation WARNING • Removing the trunk lid / liftgate without supporting it can be dangerous. The trunk lid / liftgate may fall and injure you. Open the trunk lid / liftgate fully and support it before removing the stay damper. Always perform these procedures together with at least another person. 1. Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the stay damper bands (2 each side). 2. Remove the stay damper from the body and trunk lid / liftgate. 3. Install stay dampers (LH/RH) ? and ? of the accessory kit parts. NOTE • Remove and install the stay dampers one by one. • The figures are for the LH side. For RH side, perform the procedure in the same way as the LH side. • The removed stay dampers are not used for this accessory.
Filed Under (Volvo) by admin on 19-08-2010
Replacing Trunk Lid Lock Unit, Switch or Motor (4-Door) ZZB1. Removing trunk lid lock unit (4-door) Remove lock unit, See below CA5. ZZB2. Installing trunk lid lock unit (4-door) Install lock unit by reverse procedure CA5. Lock Unit ZZB3. Removing Lock Unit Switch (4-door) Remove: lock unit. cable from the slot on the reverse. Switch up. connector and pull out wiring. Note position of wiring in switch. pins from the switch. switch with cable. ZZB4. Installing Lock Unit Switch (4-door) Install: switch and cable through hole. Note the position of the switch. Route cable to connector. pins in connector switch in mounting. cable in slot on reverse. cover. lock unit.. ZZB5. Removing Lock Unit Motor (4-door)
Filed Under (Lexus) by admin on 18-06-2010
POWER DOOR LOCKS All doors can be locked and unlocked from either front door using control switch or door key. When you unlock driver’s door with door key, if you turn key once, only driver’s door will unlock. If you turn key twice within 3 seconds, all doors will unlock. KEY CONFINEMENT PREVENTION SYSTEM If driver leaves key in ignition, opens door, then tries to lock doors using control switch (on door panel), system will not allow doors to be locked. This prevents key from being locked inside vehicle. OPERATION POWER DOOR LOCKS Door Key Switch (Door Key Lock & Unlock Switch) This switch is part of door key cylinder. When lock cylinder is turned to LOCK or UNLOCK position, contacts inside this switch close. Door Lock Control Switch All doors can be locked and unlocked using control switch on driver’s side or passenger’s side. Door Lock Motors Each door contains a door lock motor (an electric actuator) that locks and unlocks door. Door lock motor assembly contains a door unlock detection switch and a door open detection switch.
Filed Under (Mercedes-Benz) by admin on 25-05-2011
Step 1. Wait for the engine to cool down and gather listed materials. Working on a hot engine is incred- ibly dumb. Step 2. Open the hood and remove the front panel and airbox. (Fig. 1.) Step 3. Protect the air intake with a cover (I used aluminum foil. (Fig. 2.) Fig. 1. Engine all assembled Step 4. Locate the spark plugs. This engine has six-cylindars and twelve spark plugs (six on each side). Select one side to do at a time. Step 5. Starting with the spark plug furthest from the firewall, remove the electrical plug and unscrew unit from the engine using the T-25 Torx bit. Use the magnet to ensure the screw is not dropped into the engine. (Fig. 3.) Step 6. Spray the spark plug boots with WD-40 to loosen them for removal. Wait a few minutes to allow solvent to penetrate. Step 7. Use the 17 mm wrench to pry the boot off from the spark plug. This is the biggest pain in the ass. Try to loosen the boot by turning the boot using your hand. Be careful not to damage or crimp the boot if using the pliers. Fig. 2. Protect your engine! Cover the air intake from accidental beer spilling! Fig. 3. Spark plugs on driver’s side with wires and harnesses intact. Step 8. engine. position labeled, engine. Do this for the entire side of the This part took the longest. Label the of the modules. The boots are both on the module and on the (Fig. 4 and 5.) Fig. 5. The engine has embossed lettering to show which boot goes where. Fig. 6. Old and new spark plugs. I used OEM spark plugs, as seen in Fig. 7. Fig. 4. Engine without spark plug modules. Step 9. Remove the spark plug. This is a pain in the ass as well. Remember, lefty- loosy, righty-tighty. Use the appropriate-sized extension to remove the spark plug. You may have to change extensions mid way. Step 10. Insert new spark plug. Spray with WD-40 before screwing in to allow for easier removal the next time you change spark plugs. Tighten to 28 N m. Step 11. Re-attach boots to the spark plugs, making sure you place them in the right order. You will feel or hear a pop when they connect. Also re-attach modules to the engine block. Step 12. Repeat on other side of engine, noting the number of new and used spark plugs as you go along. Step 13. Once complete, remove cover that was placed on the air intake and replace air box. You are done! There will be some smoke and smell as the WD-40 burns off the engine and plugs.
Filed Under (Toyota) by admin on 11-07-2010
1. REMOVE BACK DOOR ASSIST GRIP a. Using a screwdriver, open the covers. HINT: Tape the screwdriver tip before use. b. Remove the 2 screws and assist grip. 2. REMOVE BACK DOOR PULL STRAP a. Using a screwdriver, remove the strap cover. HINT: Tape the screwdriver tip 3. REMOVE CENTER GARNISH Using a screwdriver, remove the center garnish. HINT: Tape the screwdriver tip before use. 4. REMOVE SIDE GARNISH a. Using a screwdriver, remove the side garnish. HINT: Tape the screwdriver tip before use. b. Employ the same manner described above to the other side. 5. REMOVE DOOR TRIM BOARD a. Insert a screwdriver between the door and door trim board to pry the door trim board out. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the door and door trim board. HINT: Tape the screwdriver tip before use. b. Pull the door trim board to remove it. 6. REMOVE HIGH-MOUNTED STOP LIGHT a. Remove the 2 screws. b. Disconnect the connector. c. Remove the high-mounted stop light. 7. REMOVE WASHER NOZZLE 8. REMOVE REAR WIPER ARM Remove the nut, rear wiper arm. Torque: 5.4 N.m (55 kgf.cm, 48 in.lbf) 9. REMOVE WIPER MOTOR AND LINK ASSEMBLY a. Remove the 3 bolts from the wiper motor. b. Remove the 2 bolts and wiper motor and link assembly. Torque: 5.4 N.m (55 kgf.cm, 48 in.lbf) c. Remove the grommet. 10. REMOVE COMBINATION LIGHTS 11. REMOVE LICENSE PLATE LIGHT ASSEMBLY a. Disconnect the back door control cable from the handle lever. b. Disconnect the connector. c. Remove the 3 nuts. d. Using a screwdriver, remove the license plate light assembly. HINT: Tape the screwdriver tip before use. e. Remove the handle lever from the license plate light cover. f. Remove the license plate light assembly from the license plate light cover. 12. REMOVE KEY CYLINDER