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Much has been written about swapping Suzuki’s G16B 1.6 liter 16-valve engine into the Samurai. It is mechanically very simple (as engine swaps go) but the wiring can be a daunting challenge for many. To date it has been necessary for the DIY builder to perform extensive research, gather all the information they can find, try to make sense of it, and take their best shot (or pay someone that has already done it). There is no one “correct” way to make this engine swap. The variations are nearly endless. Much of it involves personal preference. What is presented here is a process that is known to be successful, along with some of the more familiar options. ALL WIRING SHOULD BE DONE WITH THE BATTERY REMOVED FROM THE VEHICLE 1.1. It is HIGHLY RECCOMMENED that you purchase the appropriate Field Service Manual for your engine model year (either digital or print copy). Though there are only two sections that are relevant to a transplanted engine the information is absolutely invaluable. Much – but not all – of the required Information is also available in most aftermarket vehicle specific service manuals (Haynes, Chilton’s, etc.) The pertinent sections (6 & of the 1996 Tracker FSM may be downloaded for free from Acksfaq.com (donations are appreciated). 1.2. 1992 through 1998 Suzuki/Geo (GM) vehicles with G16B (1.6 liter 16-valve) engines can be identified by the 8th digit in the Vehicle Identification Number. “0” for Suzuki badged vehicles, “6” for Geo’s (“U” indicates an 8-valve 1.6L). 1.3. The most common set-up, and arguably the simplest, mates a donor Tracker or Sidekick engine, with the Samurai 5- spd Manual Transmission. Donor engines with Automatic Transmissions (3 or 4 A/T) are easily rewired to work with the Samurai 5-spd M/T. Specific notations for installing the donor engine with a 3 A/T appear where necessary. The 4 A/T is significantly more complicated and is not included in these instructions. 1.4. It is preferred (but not required) that the ECM and engine be of the same model year. However, as long as the computer has all the necessary inputs and outputs it makes no difference what motor it is physically controlling. It should be noted that OBD1 vehicles (1995 & earlier) are much less complex than OBD2 vehicles (1996 & after). The earlier technology is far easier for the amateur auto electrician to manage. OBD2, being more modern, has nearly twice as many sensors & controls. Properly tuned, OBD2 engines will provide slightly more power, better fuel economy, and cleaner emissions. Replacement parts are also easier to find, but of course, are more expensive.

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All vehicles 1. Remove the transmission. For additional information, refer to Section 307-01 for automatic transmissions or Section 308-03 for manual transmissions. Vehicles with manual transmission 2. Remove the clutch disc and pressure plate. For additional information, refer to Section 308-01. All vehicles IN-VEHICLE REPAIR (Continued) 3. Remove the 10 bolts and flexplate or flywheel. • Discard the bolts. 4. NOTICE: Use extreme care when removing the flywheel front adapter to prevent damage to the alignment dowel pin. Remove the flywheel front adapter. 5. NOTICE: To prevent engine damage, do not remove the rear primary crankshaft flange bolts under any circumstances. If the flange is removed and reinstalled, it will result in engine vibration and premature transmission component wear. NOTICE: Drill only deep enough to penetrate the seal. Engine damage will occur if the seal is drilled too deep. NOTE: On original service seals, if equipped, the wear ring will be removed separately. Using a center punch, mark a location for 2 holes 180 degrees apart, 9.53 mm (0.375 in) from the outer diameter of the crankshaft flange. Using a drill bit of the appropriate size for the Slide Hammer being used, drill a hole on each side of the crankshaft rear seal as shown. Drill the holes to a depth of 8.76 mm (0.344 in) to capture the metal case of the crankshaft rear seal as well as the wear ring. 6. Using the 2 drilled holes, the Slide Hammer and a commercially available body dent puller attachment, walk the seal out of the rear cover by alternating from side to side to remove the crankshaft rear seal. • Discard the crankshaft rear seal. Vehicles with an original service seal 7. NOTE: Original equipment seals will not have a wear ring. If a service part has previously been installed, it will have a wear ring. If the service part was a redesigned seal, the wear ring will have been removed with the seal in the previous step. If the service part was an original service seal, the wear ring will remain in the engine after the seal has been removed. If the wear ring remained in the engine after removing the seal, use the Crankshaft Rear Wear Ring Remover to remove and discard the crankshaft rear seal wear ring. All vehicles 8. Clean and inspect the crankshaft sealing surface. Installation Vehicles with an original service seal 1. NOTICE: The crankshaft rear seal and wear ring are a one-piece design and need to be installed as an assembly. Do not separate the wear ring from the crankshaft rear seal or damage to the seal may occur. NOTE: An original service seal will have a wear ring without a flange and pre-applied threadlock. NOTE: Apply a bead of threadlock around the circumference of the outer rear edge of the secondary crankshaft flange.

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1. Relieve the fuel pressure. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00. 2. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301). For additional information, refer to Section 414-01. 3. Drain the engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03. 4. Remove the hood (16612). 5. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube (9B659). For additional information, refer to Section 303-12. 6. Remove the accelerator control splash shield (9E766). 7. Remove the upper radiator hose (8260). 8. Remove the lower radiator hose (8286). 9. Remove the two bolts and position the fan shroud (8146) on the fan blade (8600). 10. Remove the water pump pulley, fan and shroud; refer to Section 303-03. 11. Disconnect the radiator overflow tube. 12. On vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions, disconnect the transmission cooler lines. 13. Disconnect the mass air flow sensor. 14. Disconnect the heater water hoses (18472) at the inlet and outlet; refer to Section 303-03. 15. Disconnect the power connection from the generator (10346). 16. Disconnect the vacuum connection to the vacuum reservoir. 17. Disconnect the throttle body heater hose. 18. Disconnect the A/C cycling switch. 19. Disconnect the connector from the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650).

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Difficulty Selecting Transmission Ranges – GEARBOX FAULT Message – Reset J-Gate Remove and destroy Bulletin XT307-01, dated 08/01. Replace with this Bulletin. The adjustment procedure has been revised. Issue: Some 2002 MY X-TYPE vehicles with automatic transmissions may experience customer complaints of being unable to select a transmission range, or the message ‘GEARBOX FAULT’ flashing on the message center (or the powertrain malfunction lamp [MIL] illuminating) causing the vehicle to run in limp-home mode. Action: Using WDS, check for any diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) stored. If any DTC is stored (see table), the J-gate assembly is functioning incorrectly and needs resetting. In order to do this, follow the Workshop Procedure outlined below. Note: Before starting the J-gate setting procedure, ensure the vehicle is cold, or has been left to cool for at least 2 hours.

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Transmission Fluid Level Check NOTE: This drain and fill procedure is referenced from TSB # 02-20-3 and applies to 5R55N, 5R55S, and 5R55W Automatic Transmissions. STE467-A ST1269-A Rubber Tip Air No?.zle 100-D009 (D93L-7fiO(1-A) Vacuum Pump Kil 416-D002{D95L-7559-A) Fluid Transporter/Evacuator/ Inj actor ST233Z-A Worldwide Diagnostic System (WDS) 418-F224 New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 418-F205 or equivalent scan tool ST2581-A Adapter, Fluid Level and Fill Plug 307-437 Part 2 Of 2 Special Tool(s) Fluid Fill Reference Item Description ] Fluid level 2 Fluid level tube 3 Fluid level and fill plug (small) (in-vehicle) 4 Fluid drain plug (large) NOTE: Left side of case is shown. 1. Using the scan tool (WDS), monitor the Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) using PID TFT. 2. Start the vehicle. 3. NOTE: Engine idle speed is approximately 650 rpm. While proceeding with this procedure, run the engine until the transmission fluid temperature is between 27°C – 49°C (80°F – 120°F)