Auto Repair Manual Free Download and ReviewsFree download ebook pdf files automotive manual

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GEAR NOISE Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubricant, incorrect backlash, incorrect pinion depth, tooth contact, worn/damaged gears, or the carrier housing not having the proper offset and squareness. Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed range. The noise can also occur during a specific type of driving condition. These conditions are acceleration, deceleration, coast, or constant load. When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then accelerate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes greatly: Check for insufficient lubricant. Incorrect ring gear backlash. Gear damage. Differential side gears and pinions can be checked by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehicle turns. A worn pinion shaft can also cause a snapping or a knocking noise. BEARING NOISE The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound. Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differential. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the source. Worn or damaged differential bearings usually produce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differential bearing noise is also constant and varies only with vehicle speed. Axle shaft bearings produce noise and vibration when worn or damaged. The noise generally changes when the bearings are loaded. Road test the vehicle. Turn the vehicle sharply to the left and to the right. This will load the bearings and change the noise level. Where axle bearing damage is slight, the noise is usually not noticeable at speeds above 30 mph. LOW SPEED KNOCK Low speed knock is generally caused by a worn U-joint or by worn side-gear thrust washers. A worn pinion shaft bore will also cause low speed knock. VIBRATION Vibration at the rear of the vehicle is usually caused by a: Damaged drive shaft. Missing drive shaft balance weight(s). Worn or out-of-balance wheels. Loose wheel lug nuts. Worn U-joint(s). Loose/broken springs. Damaged axle shaft bearing(s). Loose pinion gear nut. Excessive pinion yoke run out. Bent axle shaft(s). Check for loose or damaged front-end components or engine/transmission mounts. These components can contribute to what appears to be a rear end vibration. Do not overlook engine accessories, brackets and drive belts. All driveline components should be examined before starting any repair. DRIVELINE SNAP A snap or clunk noise when the vehicle is shifted into gear (or the clutch engaged), can be caused by: High engine idle speed. Transmission shift operation. Loose engine/transmission/transfer case mounts. Worn U-joints. Loose spring mounts. Loose pinion gear nut and yoke. Excessive ring gear backlash. Excessive side gear to case clearance. The source of a snap or a clunk noise can be determined with the assistance of a helper. Raise the vehicle on a hoist with the wheels free to rotate. Instruct the helper to shift the transmission into gear. Listen for the noise, a mechanics stethoscope is helpful in isolating the source of a noise.

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The axle housing assembly consists of a cast-aluminum center section, a removable cast-aluminum axle housing tube (3B210), and a differential housing cover (3N136). Both the axle housing tube and the differential housing cover use silicone sealant as a gasket. The hypoid-design gearset consists of an 8.8-inch ring gear (3A397) and a pinion gear (3N175). Two opposed tapered roller bearings support the drive pinion in the axle housing. A drive pinion collapsible spacer (4662), located on the pinion shaft, maintains pinion bearing preload. The pinion nut adjusts the preload. Differential bearing shims (4A451), located between the differential bearing cups (4221) and the axle housing, adjust the differential bearing preload and the ring gear backlash. The differential case (4205) is a one-piece design with two openings to allow for assembly of the internal components and lubricant flow. Two opposed tapered roller bearings (differential bearings [4221]) support the differential case in the axle housing. Removable differential bearing caps (4224) retain the differential assembly in the axle housing. Inside the differential case, the differential pinion shaft (4211) supports two differential pinion gears (4215). The pinion gears engage the differential side gears (4236), to which the left axle shaft (3A381) and the axle cluster gear shaft (7L253) are splined. The differential pinion shaft bolt retains the differential pinion shaft in the differential case. An embossed metal tag, bolted to the rear face of the RH axle tube, contains front axle identification information. CAUTION: Actuate the front drive axle with the wheels in a straight ahead position, and at light throttle only. A front axle actuator motor assembly (7G360), controlled by an instrument panel-mounted switch, actuates the front drive axle.

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1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-00. 2. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-00. 3. Remove the parts in the order indicated in the following illustration and table. 4. To install, reverse the removal procedure. 5. Fill the axle with the specified quantity of the specified lubricant. For additional information, refer to the Specifications in this section. Item 2: Rear Disc Brake Caliper Removal Note 1. CAUTION: Do not allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose. Provide a suitable support. Position the rear disc brake caliper aside. For additional information, refer to Section 206-00. Item 7: Differential Pinion Shaft Removal Note 1. Move the differential pinion shaft out far enough to remove the U-washers. Replace the shaft and install the lock bolt finger tight when U-washers are removed. Item 8: U-washer Removal Note 1. CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the axle shaft grooves. Remove the U-washers. 1. Push the axle shafts inboard. 2. Remove the U-washers. Item 10 and 11: Wheel Bearing Oil Seal and Axle Shaft Bearing Removal Note 1. CAUTION: Never remove the wheel bearing oil seal by itself. Always remove the wheel bearing oil seal and the rear wheel bearing at the same time. For the 8.8 inch rear axle, use the special tools to remove the rear wheel bearing and wheel bearing oil seal. 2. CAUTION: Never remove the wheel bearing oil seal by itself. Always remove the wheel bearing oil seal and the rear wheel bearing at the same time. For the 9.75 inch and the 10.25 inch rear axles, use the special tools to remove the rear wheel bearing and wheel bearing oil seal. Item 11: Axle Shaft Bearing Installation Note 1. For the 8.8 inch and the 9.75 inch rear axles, use the special tools to install the rear axle wheel bearing. 2. For the 10.25 inch rear axle, use the special tools shown to install the rear axle wheel bearing. Item 10: Wheel Bearing Oil Seal Installation Note 1. Use the special tools shown to install the rear wheel bearing oil seal. Item 8: U-washer Installation Note 1. CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the U-washer grooves. Install the U-washers. 1. Position the two U-washers on the button end of the axle shafts. 2. Pull the axle shafts outward.

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Manual Locking Hubs, Ranger 1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands. 2. Remove the lug nuts (1012) and wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04. 3. Remove the retainer washers from the wheel hub bolt nut studs and the manual locking hub assembly from the front wheel spindle (3105). 4. Remove the snap ring from the end of the shaft of the front wheel spindle. Manual Locking Hub, Exploded View, Ranger 5. Remove the axle shaft spacers. 6. Remove the outer wheel bearing locknut from the front wheel spindlej using Hub Locknut Wrench Prong T83T-1197-B. Engage tool tabs into locknut slots. 7. Remove locknut washer from front wheel spindle. 8. Loosen the inner wheel bearing locknut. Engage tool tab in locknut slots. Make sure tool is centered over the locknut pin. 9. Tighten the inner locknut to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft) while turning the rotor in the opposite direction to seat wheel bearings. 10. NOTE: If necessary, tighten inner locknut slightly to align the locknut pin with lockwasher hole. Spin the rotor and back off the inner locknut one-quarter turn. Retighten the inner locknut to 1.8 Nm (16 lb-in). 11. Install the lockwasher on the front wheel spindle. 12. Install the outer wheel bearing locknut using locknut wrench. Tighten locknut to 203 Nm (150 lb-ft). 13. Check the end play of the wheel and tire assembly on the front wheel spindle. Final end play should be 0.00-0.08mm (0.000-0.003 inch). The maximum torque to rotate the hub is 2.8 Nm (25 lb-in). 14. Install the axle shaft spacer. 15. Clip the snap ring onto the end of the shaft of the front wheel spindle. 16. Install the manual hub assembly over the front wheel spindle. Install the retainer washers. 17. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten lug nuts to 135 Nm (100 lb-ft). Automatic Locking Hubs, Ranger 1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands. 2. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04. 3. Remove the retainer washers from the wheel hub bolt nut studs. Remove the automatic locking hub assembly from the front wheel spindle. Automatic Locking Hub, Exploded View, Ranger

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1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02. 2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04. 3. CAUTION: Do not reuse the torque prevailing design hub nut and washer assembly. Remove and discard the hub nut and washer assembly. 4. CAUTION: Do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the brake hose. Provide a suitable support. Remove the caliper support bracket bolts, then position the caliper and support bracket aside. 5. Remove the brake disc. 6. CAUTION: Do not use a hammer to separate the outboard front wheel halfshaft joint from the wheel hub. Damage to the outboard CV joint stub shaft threads and internal CV joint components may result. Using the special tool, separate the outboard front wheel halfshaft joint from the wheel hub. Remove the special tool. 7. Disconnect the front anti-lock brake sensor (ABS) wire from the vehicle frame. 1. Disconnect the ABS electrical connector. 2. Unclip the front ABS wire from the vehicle frame. 8. Using a suitable jack, support the front suspension lower arm. 9. CAUTION: Secure the front axle shaft to prevent it from overextending. Failure to do so can cause damage to the front axle shaft. Support the front axle shaft with wire. 10. Remove the tie-rod end castellated nut. 1. Remove and discard the cotter pin. 2. Remove and discard the castellated nut. 11. CAUTION: Do not use a hammer to separate the tie-rod from the wheel knuckle or damage to the wheel knuckle will result. CAUTION: Do not damage the tie-rod boot when installing the special tool. Using the special tool, separate the tie-rod end from the front wheel knuckle. 12. Remove the lower ball joint castellated nut.