Filed Under (Chrysler) by admin on 28-12-2010
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CHRYSLER ALTERNATOR See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 Fig. 1: Alternator mounting-2.2L and 2.5L engines Fig. 2: Disconnecting alternator wiring-2.2L and 2.5L engines Fig. 3: Disconnecting alternator wiring Fig. 4: Removing the pivot bolt and nut Fig. 5: Removing the alternator from the vehicle Disconnect the negative battery cable. Label and disconnect the wiring (for easy installation). Remove the air conditioning compressor drive belt, if equipped. Loosen the alternator adjusting bracket bolt and adjusting bolt. Remove the alternator belt. 5. Remove the bracket and mounting bolts. 6. Remove the pivot bolt and nut. 7. Lift the alternator from the vehicle. When lifting the alternator out of the vehicle on some years with A/C, clearance may be restricted by the condenser cooling fan assembly or the A/C compressor and mounting bracket assembly, if so, removal of one of these items will be necessary. 8. Position the alternator against the engine. 9. Install the pivot bolt and nut. 10. Install the mounting bracket bolts, and adjusting bolt. 11. Install drive belts and adjust to specification. 12. Tighten all the mounting bolts and nuts. 13. Connect all alternator terminals. 14. Connect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the wiring and label for easy installation. Remove the air conditioning compressor drive belt. Loosen the alternator adjusting bracket locknut and adjusting screw. Remove the alternator belt. 5. Remove the bracket locknut and mounting bolt. 6. Remove the pivot bolt and nut. 7. Remove the alternator from the engine. 8. Position the alternator against the engine. 9. Install pivot bolt and nut. 10. Set the mounting bracket in place and install the bracket mounting bolt and locknut. 11. Install the drive belts and adjust to specification. 12. Tighten all the mounting bolts and nuts. 13. Connect all alternator terminals. 14. Connect the negative battery cable.
Filed Under (Chrysler) by admin on 14-12-2010
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CAUTION: Use only DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. NOTE: ABS bleeding requires conventional bleeding methods (manual or pressure) plus ABS bleeding method (using scan tool). See MANUAL BLEEDING or PRESSURE BLEEDING plus ABS BLEEDING . Bleed system using either conventional bleeding method, then using ABS bleeding method. Repeat conventional bleeding method. Observe following precautions during brake bleeding procedure. DO NOT allow master cylinder to run out of fluid when bleeding brakes. Check fluid level frequently and add fluid as necessary. DO NOT pump brake pedal during bleeding procedure unless directed to do so. Bleed only one brake system component at a time. Use a bleed hose on each wheel cylinder and caliper bleed screw. Be sure to tighten each bleed screw when bleeding is complete. If master cylinder has been overhauled or a new cylinder is to be installed, bench bleed master cylinder before installation. MANUAL BLEEDING 1. Fill master cylinder. Install clear vinyl bleed hose onto left rear bleed screw. Place other end of hose in clean transparent container. 2. Partially fill a container with clean brake fluid. Submerge end of hose in fluid. Pump pedal 3-4 times and hold. Open bleed screw at least one turn. 3. Close bleed screw. Release pedal. Repeat procedure until flow of brake fluid is clear and free of bubbles. Proceed to next bleed screw of brake bleeding sequence. See BLEEDING SEQUENCE table.
Filed Under (Chrysler) by admin on 09-12-2010
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NOTE: NOTE: Whenever a torque strut bolt(s) is loosened, this procedure must be performed. Upper and lower torque struts need to be adjusted together to assure proper engine positioning and engine mount loading. To prevent minimal upward lifting of engine, floor jack must be positioned as shown. See Fig. 1 . 1. Remove pencil strut. See Fig. 2 . Loosen upper and lower torque strut attaching bolt at suspension crossmember and shock tower bracket. Engine position may now be adjusted by positioning a suitable floor jack on the forward edge of transmission bellhousing. See Fig. 1 . 2. With engine supported, remove upper and lower torque struts attachment bolt(s) at shock tower bracket and suspension crossmember. See Fig. 3 . Verify that torque struts are free to move within shock tower bracket and crossmember. Reinstall torque strut bolt(s), but DO NOT tighten. 3. Carefully apply upward force, allowing upper engine to rotate rearward until distance between center of rearmost attaching stud on engine mount bracket (point “A”) and center of hole for washer hose clip on shock tower bracket (point “B”) is 4.7″ (119 mm). See Fig. 4 . CAUTION: Engine must be held in position with jack until both upper and lower torque strut bolts are tightened. 4. With engine held at proper position, tighten both upper and lower torque strut bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . Install pencil strut, and tighten nuts to specification. Remove floor jack.
Filed Under (Chrysler) by admin on 01-12-2010
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1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Raise vehicle on a hoist. Remove wheel and tire. Remove splash shield as necessary to access headlamp housing. See Fig. 10. Remove grille. Remove the two fascia bolts from behind the grille. See Fig. 19. 1 – ATTACHING POINTS 2 – FRONT FASCIA 6. Remove fasteners attaching fender to fascia on the side being worked on. 7. Remove the three fasteners holding the lower fascia (3) to the lower radiator crossmember. 8. Make sure there is a slight gap (1) between the fender and fascia. 9. Disconnect wire connectors (2, 5, and 7). 10. Remove four nuts (1, 3, and 6) attaching headlamp housing (4). 1 – MOUNTING HOLES 2 – FRONT SIDE MARKER/PARK/TURN SIGNAL LAMP 3 – MOUNTING HOLES 4 – HEADLAMP HOUSING 5 – LOW BEAM CONNECTOR 6 – MOUNTING HOLE 7 – HIGH BEAM CONNECTOR 11. Once the fascia (3) is loosened on the appropriate side and there is a gap between the fascia and the headlamp unit (1), place a shop towel underneath the headlamp unit (2) on the fascia (3) to protect it from scratches and marring. 12. Tilt the bottom of the headlamp unit (1) forward and then pull straight out of fender/fascia opening, taking care not to damage headlamp unit, fender, or fascia (2).
Filed Under (Chrysler) by admin on 24-10-2010
Tags: airbag,
Chrysler,
chrysler town,
diagnostic connector,
instrument panel,
lamp switch,
steering column,
switch wiring,
town country,
traction control,
wiring connector,
wiring harness
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NOTE: Before proceeding, review all Steering Column and Airbag Warnings and Cautions. 1. Remove battery ground cable terminal from battery negative post and isolate. 2. Under instrument panel, remove silencer panel below lower steering column cover. 3. Remove screws securing lower steering column cover/knee blocker, then remove it. 4. Disconnect parking brake release link at release handle. 5. Compress tabs on sides of data link diagnostic connector and remove it from knee blocker reinforcement plate. 6. Remove screws securing knee blocker reinforcement plate in place, then remove reinforcement plate. Remove screws securing instrument panel lower left reinforcement in place, then remove reinforcement. 8. Remove brake lamp switch. Discard the original switch; it must not be reused Remove screws fastening upper and lower steering column shrouds to steering column. 10. Remove the lower shroud with adjustable pedal switch; disconnect switch wiring connector along left side of column as shroud is removed. 11. Disconnect traction control off switch wiring connector; Remove upper shroud with traction control off switch. 12. Disconnect wiring harness connectors (as equipped) from clockspring, multi- function switch, halo lamp, SKIM module, ignition switch and BTSI solenoid. 13. Disconnect column wiring harness routing clip from column.