Filed Under (Pontiac) by admin on 31-10-2010
If the transmission jumps out of gear during deceleration, inspect the components that may allow for the gears or shafts to tip. If the gears or shafts tip, the synchronizer sleeve can disengage from the selector teeth on the speed gear. If the transmission jumps out of gear during acceleration, inspect the components that may not allow full engagement of the synchronizer sleeve to the selector teeth on the speed gear. Insufficient engagement of the selector teeth under torque may cause the transmission to jump out of gear. Test Description The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table. 2. A static shift test is performed by shifting into all gear positions with the engine not operating. While performing the test, slowly move the shift lever. Feel for proper movement of the shift lever and transmission internal shift components. 4. A dynamic shift test is performed by shifting into all gear positions with the engine operating. Test for the correct mesh of the synchronizers sleeve and the speed gear selector teeth. Move the shift lever, and feel for the synchronizer sleeve to release from the gear, then let up on the clutch pedal. Depress the clutch pedal and move the shift lever to engage the gear again, to ensure full travel of the shift components. 5. This step inspects for worn or damaged transmission or engine mounts. Loose mounts may cause a shock on the transmission allowing for gear disengagement. 6. This step inspects for the misalignment of the torque tube to transmission. Misalignment may put a bind on the input shaft, allowing for the input shaft or the mainshaft to tip. 8. This step inspects the pilot bearing and the pilot bearing journal on the input shaft. A worn pilot bearing or input shaft may allow the input shaft to tip, causing gear disengagement.
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Filed Under (Toyota) by admin on 24-10-2010
REMOVE TRANSAXLE FROM ENGINE 2. REMOVE CLUTCH COVER AND DISC a. Align the matchmark on the clutch cover with the one on the flywheel. b. Loosen each set bolt one turn at a time until spring tension is released. c. Remove the set bolts, and pull off the clutch cover with the clutch disc. NOTICE: Do not drop the clutch disc. 3. REMOVE RELEASE BEARING AND FORK FROM TRANSAXLE Remove the release bearing with the fork together and then separate them. 4. REMOVE RELEASE FORK SUPPORT AND BOOT INSPECTION 1. INSPECT CLUTCH DISC FOR WEAR OR DAMAGE Using vernier calipers, measure the rivet head depth. Minimum rivet depth: 0.3 mm (0.012 inch) If necessary, replace the clutch disc. 2. INSPECT CLUTCH DISC RUNOUT Using a dial indicator, check the disc runout. Maximum runout: 0.8 mm (0.031 inch) If necessary, replace the clutch disc runout. 3. INSPECT FLYWHEEL RUNOUT Using a dial indicator, check the flywheel runout. Maximum runout: 0.1 mm (0.004 inch) If necessary, replace the flywheel. Torque: 1st: 49 Nm ( 00 kgf-cm, 36 ft. lbs.) 2nd: Turn 90° 4. INSPECT DIAPHRAGM SPRING FOR WEAR Using vernier calipers, measure the diaphragm spring for depth and width of wear. Maximum: A (Depth): 0.5 mm (0.020 inch) B (Width): 6.0 mm (0.236 inch) If necessary, replace the clutch cover. 5. INSPECT RELEASE BEARING Turn the bearing by hand while applying force in the axial direction. HINT: The bearing is permanently lubricated and requires no cleaning or lubrication. If necessary, replace the release bearing. INSTALLATION 1. INSTALL CLUTCH DISC AND CLUTCH COVER ON FLYWHEEL
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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-10-2010
NOTE: Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces. 1. Write down the frequencies for the radio’s preset buttons. Disconnect the negative (-) cable first, then the positive (+) cable from the battery. Remove the battery. 2. Remove the intake air duct. 3. Remove the air cleaner housing. 4. Disconnect the transmission ground cable(A), then remove the clutch line bracket (B). 5. Carefully remove the slave cylinder so as not to bend the clutch line. Do not operate the clutch pedal once the slave cylinder has been removed. 6. Disconnect the starter motor cables (A). 7. Disconnect the back-up light switch connector. 8. Remove the starter motor. 9. Remove the cable bracket (A), then disconnect the cables (B) from the top of the transmission housing. Carefully remove both cables and the bracket together so as not to bend the cables. 10. Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) connector. 11. Lift and support the engine with an hanger (A), and special tool.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 16-10-2010
Removal 1. Remove the supercharger drive belt. 2. Remove the fan blade, clutch and shroud. 3. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 4. Remove the nut and position the shield aside. 5. Remove the transmission cooler line clip. 6. Remove the two nuts and one bolt. 7. Remove the starter motor. 8. Install the special tool. 9. Remove the accessory drive belt. 10. NOTE: The auxiliary supercharger pulley has left-hand threads. Remove the pulley and brace assembly. 11. Remove the supercharger pulley adapter. 12. Remove the bolt. 13. Using the special tool, remove the crankshaft pulley. Installation 1. NOTE: The crankshaft pulley must be installed within four minutes after applying the silicone. Apply silicone gasket and sealant to the Woodruff key slot on the crankshaft pulley. 2. Using the special tool, install the crankshaft pulley. 3. Install the bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt in four stages. Stage 1: Tighten to 90 Nm (66 ft. lbs.) . Stage 2: Loosen the bolt. Stage 3: Tighten to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.) . Stage 4: Tighten an additional 85 – 90° . 4. Install the supercharger pulley adapter. 5. Install the drive belt. 6. NOTE: Coat the threads of the supercharger pulley with anti-seize lubricant. NOTE: The auxiliary supercharger pulley has left-hand threads. Install the pulley and brace assembly. 7. Remove the special tool. 8. Install the starter motor. 9. Position the transcooler line clip and install the two nuts and one bolt. 10. 11. 12. 13. Position the shield and install the nut. Lower the vehicle. Install the fan blade, clutch and shroud. Install the accessory drive belt and the supercharger drive belt.
Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 12-10-2010
SYMPTOM A squealing or moaning noise is heard from the rear of the vehicle when the front tires are slipping during acceleration or when the vehicle is turning. PROBABLE CAUSE Water entered the differential through the breather tube and contaminated the differential fluid. CORRECTIVE ACTION Flush the differential with new fluid and/or replace the differential clutch set. PARTS INFORMATION Breather Tube Assembly: P/N 41130-P6R-020 Differential Clutch Set: P/N 48010-P6R-305 Rear Differential Mounting Bracket: P/N 50710-S10-A01 Honda Dual Pump Fluid: P/N 08200-9002 DIAGNOSIS 1. Test-drive the vehicle on a dirt or gravel road. From a stop, accelerate hard to make the front tires slip. • If the rear differential makes noise, go to the REPAIR PROCEDURE. • If the rear differential does not make noise, go to step 2.2. Test-drive the vehicle in a circle on a paved, open parking lot at about 10 mph while holding the steering wheel in a full-lock position. • If the rear differential makes noise, go to the REPAIR PROCEDURE. • If the rear differential does not make noise, disregard this bulletin and troubleshoot other causes. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park or Neutral) until the radiator fan comes on. 2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 3. Circulate the Dual Pump Fluid through the clutch assembly: • On A/T models: Apply the parking brake, put the transmission into D4, and let the vehicle idle for 5 minutes. • On M/T models: Put the transmission into 1st gear and engage the clutch. Slowly apply the parking brake until just before the engine stalls. Let the engine run like this for 5 minutes. 4. Engage both differential pumps: • On A/T models: Release the parking brake, and let the vehicle idle in D4 for 5 minutes. • On M/T models: Release the parking brake, and let the vehicle idle in 3rd or 4th gear for 5 minutes.