Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 18-02-2011
1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-00. 2. If servicing the radiator lower fan shroud or the radiator, drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section. 3. Remove the parts in the order indicated in the following illustrations and tables. To remove individual parts, only carry out the listed steps: 4. To install, reverse the removal procedure. If servicing the radiator lower fan shroud or the radiator, fill and bleed the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section. Item 9: Lower Degas Bottle Hose Removal Note 1. Remove the lower degas bottle hose from the clip on the radiator lower fan shroud. Item 10: A/C Tube Removal Note 1. On 4.6L engines, detach the A/C tube from the retainers. Item 11: Transmission Cooler and A/C Tubes Removal Note 1. Disconnect the transmission cooler tubes. Remove the safety retainers from the transmission cooler tubes. Using the special tool, disconnect the quick coupler. If equipped, loosen and remove the screw clamp from the hose. 2. Remove the A/C tube brackets from the engine front cover. Item 12: Radiator Fan Shroud Screw Removal Note 1. Not all vehicles will have these radiator fan shroud screws. If vehicle is equipped with these screws, please discard them. Item 15: Cooling Fan Removal Note 1. CAUTION: Cardboard must be placed against the radiator when removing the cooling fan. Failure to follow these procedures can result in damage to the vehicle. Place a piece of cardboard against the radiator to prevent damage while removing the cooling fan. 2. Using the special tools, remove the fan blade and the clutch assembly. Item 17: Radiator Lower Fan Shroud Removal Note 1. Remove the power steering tube from the clip on the radiator lower fan shroud. Item 19: Radiator Bracket Bolt Removal Note 1. If necessary, remove the radiator brackets. Item 21: A/C Condenser Support Bracket Bolt Removal Note 1. If necessary, remove the condenser brackets. Item 22: Radiator Removal Note 1. NOTE: It will be necessary to lift the radiator assembly up off the mounts and set it on the frame in order to separate the A/C condenser from the radiator. NOTE: RH side shown, LH side similar. Remove the radiator up off the mounts and set it on the frame. 2. Remove the left inner air deflector from the A/C condenser.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 26-01-2011
Incomplete clutch release and/or hydraulic fluid leaking into the cab from the clutch master cylinder may be caused by the reinforcement plate on the clutch master cylinder separating from the dash panel. The separation of the reinforcement plate reduces the clutch master cylinder pushrod travel. Reinforcement plate separation can also cause deflection of the clutch master cylinder that results in a misalignment of the pushrod to the clutch master cylinder. Misalignment causes the “O” ring in front of the secondary seal to leak hydraulic fluid. ACTION Inspect the truck and, if necessary, use the following service procedure to install a reinforcement kit. INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. If the truck is a 1988 or later model, confirm that the starter interlock switch operates (the engine can be started) with the clutch pedal at least 0.5″ (12.7 mm) from the floor. 2. Test drive the truck and check for good clutch release. There should be no grinding of the gears, particularly when shifting from neutral to reverse gear. 3. If the truck passes these tests, go to the Small Reinforcement Installation Procedure Section of this article. 4. If either of the above conditions are not met, check the hydraulic system for air. Refer to the Suggested Bleeding Procedure at the end of this article. 5. Test drive the truck and check for improved clutch release. 6. If there is no improvement, proceed as follows: a. Remove the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the release lever pin on the release lever. b. Make sure the hole in the pushrod lines up with the pin, for those units requiring a minimal force
Filed Under (Chevrolet) by admin on 18-01-2011
(1) IP Bulkhead (2) C214 (3) C211 (4) C210 (5) C204 (6) Body Control Module (BCM) Connector C1 (7) Body Control Module (BCM) Connector C2 (8) IP Vacuum Harness Connector (9) Temperature Sensor – Lower (w/C68) (10) Splice Pack SP202 (11) S202 (12) Relay Block – Body (13) Stoplamp Switch (14) C500 (15) C501 (4 Door Utility), C502 (2 Door Export) (16) Splice Pack SP201 (17) C209 (18) C229 (Envoy Only) (19) G200 and G202 (20) G201 (21) Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) Switch
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 11-01-2011
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Using the Hydraulic Line Connector Remover (308-182, T88T-70522-A), disconnect the hydraulic line from the clutch slave cylinder. See Fig. 9 . 2. Lower the vehicle. Remove the 2 screws and the lower steering column finish panel. See Fig. 10 . Remove the 5 bolts and the lower reinforcement panel. See Fig. 11 . 3. Remove the clutch master cylinder reservoir. See Fig. 16 . Remove the 3 push pins, 4 bolts, 4 screws and the inner fender splash shield. 4. Unclip the hydraulic line-to-frame retainer. Twist the clutch master cylinder clockwise 45 degrees to unlock it from the support bracket. See Fig. 17 . Remove the clutch master cylinder reservoir, the slave cylinder hydraulic line and the clutch master cylinder as an assembly. 5. Install a NEW clutch master cylinder push rod bushing. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Rotate the clutch master cylinder 45 degrees counterclockwise. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system. See BLEEDING .
Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 03-01-2011
SYMPTOM The vehicle may have one or more of these symptoms: • Idle fluctuates between 500 and 1,500 RPM (The fluctuation is more pronounced before the engine reaches normal operating temperature.) • Shudder or judder when accelerating from a stop or just before stopping • Surging at highway speeds between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM • Excessive shock when the engine is cold and you start to accelerate • A “coo” sound, lasting about 5 to 10 seconds, after coming to a stop PROBABLE CAUSE The problem may have one or more of these causes: • TCM control unit programming is too sensitive. • The start clutch assembly is worn. • The start clutch control valve is contaminated. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the start clutch assembly, the start clutch control valve, and the TCM.REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure the work surface and the CVT are completely clean. Use lint-free towels, and use a dedicated, clean solvent tank for cleaning the CVT parts. If you do not keep everything very clean, the repair may not be successful. 1. Soak the new start clutch assembly in Honda ATF-Z1 for at least 30 minutes. NEW START CLUTCH ASSEMBLY 2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. See page 14-304 of the 1996–00 Civic Service Manual. 3. Cover with clean shop towels all of the openings in the transmission and anything else that might get damaged by water and cleaning chemicals (axle openings, breather, and electrical connectors). Clean all the dirt and grease off of the transmission before you start disassembly.