Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-05-2011
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NOTE: Samurai & Sidekick 1) Remove rocker cover. Rotate crankshaft until zero degree (TDC) timing mark of timing belt cover is in line with timing mark on crankshaft pulley. 2) Cylinder No. 1 should be at TDC on compression stroke. Remove distributor cap, and ensure rotor is pointed upward at distributor hold-down bolt and to No. 1 terminal of distributor cap. If not as described, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees. 3) Measure valve clearance between adjustment screw and valve stem using thickness gauge. Check intake valve clearance of cylinders No. 1 and 2 and exhaust valve clearance of cylinders No. 1 and 3. 4) Turn crankshaft one complete revolution (360 degrees). Check intake valve clearance of cylinders No. 3 and 4 and exhaust valve clearance of cylinders No. 2 and 4. Ensure clearance is within specification. See VALVE CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS table. 5) If clearance adjustment is necessary, loosen lock nut and turn adjusting screw. After adjusting clearance, tighten adjusting Swift DOHC uses hydraulic lifters. Adjustment is not required. screw lock nut to 11-14 ft. lbs. (15-19 N.m) on Samurai or 90-108 INCH lbs. (10-13 N.m) on Sidekick. On all models, recheck clearance. VALVE CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS TABLE ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡ Application SOHC Engines Samurai, Sidekick 8-Valve TBI & Swift (1) Engine Cold Exhaust ……………………. .006-.008 (.15-.20) Intake …………………….. .005-.007 (.13-.17) Engine Hot Exhaust ……………………. .010-.012 (.25-.30) Intake …………………….. .009-.011 (.23-.27) Sidekick 16-Valve PFI Engine Cold Exhaust & Intake ………….. .0031-.0047 (.08-.12) Engine Hot Exhaust & Intake ………….. .0047-.0063 (.12-.16) DOHC Engine Swift (1) …………………………………. (2) (1) – Swift is available with 1.3L DOHC and SOHC engines. (2) – Hydraulic valve lash adjusters are used. Adjustment is not required. ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡ Swift SOHC 1) Remove rocker cover. Remove right side inner fender apron extension to enable timing marks to be seen. Align crankshaft pulley timing mark with TDC mark on timing belt cover. 2) Remove distributor cap. Ensure rotor is pointing upward toward distributor hold-down bolt and to No. 1 terminal of distributor cap. If not as described, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees. 3) Measure valve clearance between adjustment screw and valve stem using thickness gauge. Check intake valve clearance of cylinders No. 1 and 2 and exhaust valve clearance of cylinders No. 1 and 3. Turn crankshaft one complete revolution (360 degrees). Check intake valve clearance of cylinders No. 3 and 4 and exhaust valve clearance of cylinders No. 2 and 4. 4) Ensure clearance is within specification. See VALVE CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS table. If clearance adjustment is necessary, loosen lock nut and turn adjusting screw. Hold adjusting screw while tightening lock nut to 11-14 ft. lbs. (15-19 N.m). Recheck clearance. In. (mm)
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 31-01-2011
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REMOVAL OF ENGINE PARTS BEFORE CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION Be sure to keep all parts in order WARNING! DO NOT REMOVE RADIATOR CAP OR RADIATOR HOSES WHILE ENGINE IS HOT! NOTE: If your vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, you are legally required to have the system evacuated by an authorized repair center prior to beginning camshaft installation. 1. Disconnect the battery. 2. Drain radiator coolant. Drain plug will normally be located on lower right or left side of the radiator facing the engine. 3. Remove radiator and air conditioning condenser if so equipped. In some cases, the front grill may have to be removed. Measure distance from front cover to grill or brackets that may interfere with camshaft against the length of the camshaft. 4. Remove the gas cap to relieve pressure. Disconnect fuel line and plug. Replace gas cap. 5. Disconnect all linkage from carburetor such as throttle, throttle springs, transmission, cruise control and automatic choke. 6. Tag and remove coil wires and sensor wires. 7. Tag and remove vacuum lines. 8. Remove valve covers. 9. Remove distributor cap and wires, rotate engine until rotor points towards number 1 terminal in cap and pointer on front cover is on top dead center (TDC) and remove distributor. (see Fig. 1) Note: Mark the approximate position of the distributor housing in relation to the manifold to assist in getting the distributor properly located during re-installation. 10. Remove carburetor and intake manifold. Remove and discard intake manifold gasket. 11. Remove rocker arms and pushrods. CAUTION: If your engine has non-adjustable rocker arms (1969-1/2 or later), you must install screw-in studs and high performance
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 09-01-2011
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REMOVAL: 1. Disconnect battery negative cable and drain cooling system. 2. Disconnect necessary electrical connections, control cables, linkages, vacuum hoses, ventilation hoses, and coolant hoses at throttle body and manifold. Do not disconnect fuel lines unless absolutely necessary. Special tools and procedures are required to re-install fuel lines. See “FUEL LINE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION”. 3. Remove distributor cap and spark plug wires as an assembly. Place reference mark on distributor for rotor alignment during re- assembly. Remove retaining bolt and distributor. 4. Remove cover plates, retaining bolts, upper intake manifold and gasket. 5. Remove accessory brackets attached to lower manifold. Remove heater tube assembly from lower manifold. Remove retaining bolts, lower manifold, gaskets, and seals. BAFFLE INSTALLATION IMPORTANT: PCV valve baffle must be installed before manifold is bolted to engine! 1. Install PCV valve baffle on bottom of manifold using two-drive pins supplied. Hammer pin in the round hole first, then install other pin in the oval hole. INSTALLATION 1. Clean all gasket surfaces. Apply Edelbrock Gasgacinch sealant, #9300 to the cylinder head side of the gasket as well as head surfaces. Allow to air-dry. 2. Apply a 1/8” bead of O2 sensor safe RTV silicone sealer at the junction of the cylinder head and and engine block surface BEFORE gaskets are installed. Install intake manifold gaskets on head. 3. Eliminate the end seals. Use RTV silicone sealer instead (O2 Sensor Safe). Apply a bead of sealant approximately 1/4” high across the front and rear block end seal surfaces, overlapping the intake gasket at the four corners. This method eliminates end seal slippage and deterioration. 4. For ease of installation, we recommend using Edelbrock manifold bolt and washer kit #8524. It may be necessary to re-use the original stud bolt to hold heater tube bracket in hole #3 (See Figure 1). 5. Install lower intake manifold and retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 15- 18 ft./lbs. in sequence (See Figure 1). 6. If fuel rail and injectors were disconnected, install components with new O-rings on fuel lines. Use only specified fuel resistant brown O-rings. Lightly coat O-rings with clean O-ring lube (brake lube) before installing. Clean fittings and replace garter spring, if necessary.
Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 15-12-2010
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Fig. Exploded view of a Hitachi style distributor Fig. Exploded view of a TEC style distributor Fig. Distributor mounting bolt torque Fig. Position of the ignition wires on the distributor cap Fig. Matchmark the position of the distributor before removal Fig. Using a closed end wrench, remove the distributor mounting bolts Fig. Remove the distributor Fig. Location of the distributor mounting bolts holes Fig. Use a small pick to remove the O-ring from the distributor Fig. Always replace the O-ring before re-installing the distributor Fig. Distributor adjusting bolt location The radio may contain a coded theft protection circuit. Always make note of the code before disconnecting the battery. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Access the crankshaft pulley bolt through the left side inner fender liner. Use a socket, long extension and a suitable ratchet to rotate the engine. Rotate the engine counterclockwise until the white Top Dead Center (TDC) mark on the pulley aligns with the pointer on the engine cover. 3. Label and the ignition wires but do not remove them. 4. Remove the distributor cap and note the location of the ignition rotor. If the ignition rotor is not pointing toward the terminal of the distributor cap for cylinder No. 1, rotate the crankshaft one complete revolution counterclockwise, and align the white (TDC) mark on the pulley with the pointer on the engine cover.
Filed Under (Jeep) by admin on 13-12-2010
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SECONDARY CIRCUIT CHECK CAUTION: When checking secondary voltage, do not remove spark plug wires from spark plugs No. 3 on 4-cylinder, No. 1 or 5 on 6-cylinder and No. 3 or 4 on V8 Engines. 1. Disconnect coil wire from distributor cap. Use insulated pliers to hold wire approximately 1/2″ from engine block or intake manifold. 2. Crank engine and check for spark at gap. If no spark occurs, turn off ignition switch, and check resistance of secondary coil windings. See Ignition Coil Resistance Check, Secondary Resistance. Replace ignition coil if outside specifications. 3. If spark occurred in step 2), connect coil wire to distributor cap. Remove wire from 1 spark plug. Using insulated pliers, hold wire 1/2″ from engine head while cranking engine. Check for spark. 4. If spark occurs, check for fuel problems or incorrect timing. If no sparks occur, check for defective rotor or distributor cap or for defective spark plug wires. CURRENT FLOW CHECK 1. Remove connector from ignition coil. Remove positive wire from connector, then negative wire. Connect ammeter between positive terminal of coil and disconnected positive wire. Connect jumper wire from negative terminal to good ground. 2. Turn ignition switch “ON”. Current flow should be approximately 7 amps., but should not exceed 7.6 amps. If more than 7.6 amps., replace ignition coil. 3. With ammeter still connected to coil positive terminal, remove jumper wire from negative terminal. Connect coil Green wire to negative terminal. Current flow should be approximately 4 amps. 4. If less than 3.5 amps., check for poor connections in 4-wire and 3-wire connectors or for poor ground at distributor ground screw. 5. If current flow is greater than 5 amps., the control unit is defective and must be replaced. Start engine. Normal current flow with engine running is 2.0-2.4 amps. If outside of specifications, replace control