Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 08-04-2011
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Removal 1. Disconnect the hood lamp harness. 1. Remove the hood insulator retainers and position the insulator away from the hood. 2. Disconnect the hood lamp harness retainers. 3. Disconnect the hood lamp electrical connector. 2. NOTE: Mark the hinge-to-hood placement to ease alignment when reinstalling the hood. Remove the hood. 1. Disconnect the windshield washer hose. 2. Remove the ground strap bolt. 3. Disconnect the hood struts. 4. Remove the four hinge-to-hood bolts and remove the hood. 3. Recover the air conditioning (A/C) system. For additional information, refer to Section 412-00. 4. Remove the lower intake manifold (9424). For additional information, refer to Intake Manifold—Lower in this section. 5. Remove the front air deflector. 1. Remove the jack handle. 2. Remove the screws. 3. Remove the air deflector. 6. Remove the radiator upper hose from the radiator. 7. Using the special tools, remove the fan blade and fan clutch. 8. Remove the fan shroud. 1. Remove the screws. 2. Lift and remove the fan shroud and fan blade, as a unit, out of the vehicle. 9. NOTE: To avoid disturbing the transmission oil cooler fittings, use a backup wrench. Disconnect the transmission fluid cooler fittings. 1. Disconnect the upper transmission fluid cooler fitting. 2. Disconnect the lower transmission fluid cooler fitting. 10. Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator. 1. Pry the locking tab up and out of the slot. 2. Rotate the lower radiator hose. 3. Disconnect the lower radiator hose. 11. Disconnect the degas hose from the radiator. 1. Release the clamp. 2. Slide the hose off of the radiator fitting. 12. Remove the radiator. 1. Remove the bolts. 2. Remove the upper radiator support brackets, the jack handle and the wheel nut wrench retainers. 3. Lift the radiator off the radiator mounting insulators. 4. Remove the radiator mounting insulators. 13. Remove the accessory drive belt. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05. 14. Disconnect the generator electrical connectors. 1. B+ 2. Stator 3. Voltage regulator 15. Remove the lower bracket bolts and the generator. 16. Disconnect the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) tube from the exhaust manifold. 17. Disconnect the transmission wiring harness retainers from the right cylinder head and position the harness aside. 18. Remove the bolts retaining the transmission to the engine. 19. Disconnect the bulkhead connectors. 20. Remove the ground strap retaining bolt. 21. Disconnect the degas return hose.
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 17-03-2011
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1. Release fuel pressure. See FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE . Disconnect battery cables and remove battery. Drain cooling system. Mark hinges and remove hood. 2. Disconnect intake air temperature (IAT) sensor and remove air intake duct and air cleaner assembly. Remove accelerator cable splash shield. Remove radiator hoses. Disconnect transmission cooler lines from radiator (A/T models). 3. Remove radiator shroud attaching screws and position over fan blades. Remove water pump pulley, fan, fan clutch and shroud. Remove radiator hoses. Remove heater hoses. Remove transmission cooling lines (A/T models). Remove radiator. Mark and disconnect all fuel lines, cables, electrical connectors and vacuum hoses from engine. Remove EGR sensor. Disconnect block heater (if equipped). Remove generator. Discharge A/C system (if equipped) using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment. Remove A/C compressor. Remove A/C compressor mounting bracket with power steering pump attached, and position aside. 4. Raise and support vehicle. Disconnect engine ground cable. Remove starter motor. Remove nut retaining transmission cooler line bracket, 4 torque converter bolts, and disconnect 2 transmission harness connectors (A/T models). Disconnect exhaust pipe flange. Disconnect transmission harness connector and HO2 sensor (M/T models). Remove 6 transmission-to-engine bolts. 5. Lower vehicle. Support transmission with floor jack. Attach lifting device to engine and support engine. Remove 2 upper transmission-to-engine bolts. On automatic transmission models, disconnect and separate heated exhaust gas sensor connector from bracket on bell housing. 6. Remove 4 motor mount retaining nuts and remove engine.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 06-03-2011
Tags: air injection,
crankshaft,
crankshaft pulley,
cylinder blocks,
drain crankcase,
drive belts,
fan clutch,
fan shroud,
power steering pump,
power steering pump pulley,
radiator support,
seal replacement,
transmission oil cooler,
upper radiator hose,
vibration damper,
water pump
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Crankshaft front seal replacement is recommended whenever the engine front cover (6019) has been removed. 1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Drain crankcase. 2. Drain cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03. 3. Remove drive belts (8620). Refer to Section 03-05. 4. Remove bolts attaching fan shroud (8146) to radiator (8005). 5. Remove fan blade (8600) from fan clutch (8A616) and remove fan shroud. 6. Remove fan clutch and water pump pulley (8509) from water pump (8501). 7. Disconnect upper radiator hose (8260) and lower radiator hose (8286) at engine (6007). Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines at radiator. 8. Remove upper radiator support bracket and remove radiator. 9. Remove generator pivot and attaching bolts. Remove generator (GEN) (10300) from generator mounting bracket (10153) and generator adjusting arm (10145). 10. Remove two bolts attaching generator adjusting arm to water pump and generator mounting bracket and remove generator adjusting arm. 11. Remove air pump pivot and attaching bolts. Remove secondary air injection pump (AIR pump) (9A486) from generator mounting bracket. 12. Remove four bolts attaching generator mounting bracket to cylinder head (6049), cylinder blocks (6010) and water pump, and remove generator mounting bracket. 13. Remove power steering pump pulley (3A733) from power steering pump (3A674). 14. Remove power steering lines from power steering pump. Remove four bolts attaching power steering pump to A/C compressor mounting bracket (2882) and remove power steering pump from A/C compressor mounting bracket. 15. Remove four bolts attaching A/C compressor (19703) to A/C compressor mounting bracket. Remove four bolts and one nut attaching A/C compressor mounting bracket to cylinder head and water pump. Remove A/C compressor mounting bracket from engine. 16. Remove the crankshaft pulley (6312) from the crankshaft vibration damper (6316). 17. Remove bolt and washer attaching crankshaft vibration damper. Remove crankshaft vibration damper using Crankshaft Damper Remover T58P-6316-D or Rotunda Gear and Pulley Puller 014-00293 or equivalent. Remove Woodruff key and crankshaft damper spacer from crankshaft (6303).
Filed Under (Oldsmobile) by admin on 17-01-2011
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Models: 2004-2005 Buick Rainier 2002-2005 Chevrolet TrailBlazer Models 2002-2005 GMC Envoy Models 2002-2004 Oldsmobile Bravada 2005 Saab 9-7X Condition Some customers may comment on slow to cool Air Conditioning (A/C) performance or high A/C outlet temperatures after start up or that the A/C system is not cooling sufficiently, especially in high ambient temperatures. This may be an intermittent condition and the performance of the Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) system may not meet customer expectations. Cause This condition may be caused by the response of the Electro-Viscous (EV) fan clutch and can be related to airflow across the condenser. This low A/C system performance can occur for longer periods of time if the vehicle is allowed to idle or is driven in low speed conditions. The response of the EV fan clutch will affect A/C system performance. As higher road speeds are attained, the increased airflow across the condenser will usually improve A/C system performance and the response of the EV fan clutch. This condition may be more evident after the vehicle has set for a period of time and can be difficult to duplicate. The condition may occur after the vehicle has set for as little as 10 minutes or as long as overnight. It is most prevalent intermittently during the first 15 minutes of operation.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 08-01-2011
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Installing an electric fan to replace the stock clutch driven fan helps your motor in many ways. First, your engine warms up faster since the fan does not turn on until needed. Second, you will gain power because the motor no longer has to turn the stock fan while the engine runs. The additional mass causes drag on the engine and can result in the loss of 5-8 horsepower. Finally, you will see an increase in fuel mileage, especially on the interstate, again, because you’re freeing up some of the rotational mass and air drag. Your fan will not come on at interstate speeds if it’s working and adjusted properly. You’ll gain overall power and top end passing power which is useful on the interstate, plus, it’s just fun to have. I’m rating this as a 4 wrench project because it requires removal of major engine parts, and if done incorrectly, you could damage your engine and void your warranty. What you’ll need: • Ford fan clutch removal tool (or a very large adjustable wrench and a heavy duty flathead screwdriver) • Fan from a 93-95 Ford Taurus 3.8L. It should look like the picture below and should have 3 wires coming from the motor: high, low, and ground. • Thermostatic switch kit; these can be found at most auto parts stores and vary in price from $20 to $150 for variable speed controllers. I used the $20 control unit. • 10gauge wire • Assorted wire connectors, a fuse tap, fuses, a diode, and a crimping tool • Bosch 75amp relay • Assorted tools, 7mm, 8mm, and 10mm sockets. • 4 2” bolts (I used ¼”), 8 fender washers, 8 nuts, 12 locking washers, and 8 locking nuts (ones with the plastic threading) • Several hours of free time To begin, Remove the Negative battery cable, your throttle body cover, and intake and set them aside. Using your fan clutch removal tool, or wrench and screwdriver, remove the nut holding the fan to the water pump. On the Sport Trac it is standard right hand thread. Once it is off, be careful not let it hit the radiator, or this could cause damage. Now remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the fan shroud to the radiator. Now remove the fan and shroud as 1 piece. Once removed, there should be a nice sized gap in your engine bay, like below.