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Transmission Replacement Tools Required J 42371 Hydraulic Clutch Line Separator Removal Procedure 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Shift the transmission into 3rd or 4th gear. Remove the shift lever assembly. Drain the transmission fluid. If vehicle is a 2 wheel drive (2WD), remove the propeller shaft. If vehicle is a 4 wheel drive (4WD), remove the transfer case. Using J 42371, push back on the white plastic sleeve on the quick connect in order to separates the hydraulic clutch line from the clutch actuator quick connect. 7. Disconnect the following engine wiring harness electrical connectors: Backup lamp switch (1) Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) (3) Oxygen sensor (4) 8. Remove the oxygen sensor (2) from the transmission bracket. 9. Remove the engine harness clips from the fuel feed/return line clip/bracket. Zoom Sized for Print 10. If equipped with 4WD, remove the vent hose clip from the bracket. 11. If equipped with 4WD, remove the vent hose clip (1) from the fuel feed/return hose bracket. Zoom Sized for Print 12. If equipped with 4WD, remove the fuel feed/return hose clip from the bracket. 13. Remove the starter. 14. Support the transmission using a suitable transmission jack. 15. Remove the transmission support. Zoom Sized for Print 16. Disconnect the vent hose from the transmission. 17. Remove the vent hose clip from the clutch housing. Zoom Sized for Print 18. Remove the transmission to clutch housing bolts. 19. Remove the transmission from the clutch housing.

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ISSUE A “soft” unresponsive clutch pedal may be felt or the driver may be unable to release the clutch. This is caused by air entrapped in the clutch hydraulic system. ACTION Use the information in this TSB article in addition to the appropriate bleeding procedure. This article includes detail as well as extra service tips for easier hydraulic clutch bleeding. The clutch hydraulic system for the 1993 model year is new and more difficult to bleed than the previous hydraulic system. Therefore, a different bleeding procedure is required for these vehicles. RANGER, EXPLORER, AEROSTAR The most difficult systems to bleed are on the Ranger, Explorer, Aerostars. NOTE: When installing dry clutch cylinder or tube service parts, do the bench bleed procedure first. BENCH BLEED The compact vehicles are more difficult to bleed because the downward angle of the master cylinder makes it difficult for air to escape up into the reservoir. Therefore, if the master cylinder is removed from the vehicle and bled while held in a vertical orientation (a bench bleed) air can escape much more efficiently. Refer to Fig. 1 . BENCH BLEEDING PROCEDURE (CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDER) 1. Remove master cylinder, line and reservoir from vehicle and assemble with replacement parts required based on initial concern. 2. Hold the master cylinder vertically with the reservoir feed hose in the highest position on the body. See Fig. 1 . 3. Fill the reservoir and extend above the master cylinder and assure the quick connect on the clutch line is below the master cylinder. (Lightly clamp reservoir in a vise). 4. Using a small screwdriver, depress the internal mechanism of the male quick connect coupling to open the valve. See Fig. 1 . 5. Stroke and hold master cylinder pushrod. 6. Close quick connect valve. 7. Release master cylinder pushrod. 8. Fill reservoir. 9. Repeat Steps 4 through 8 four more times. 10. With the master cylinder still being held with the outlet tube and reservoir feed tube ends high, quick connect closed and the reservoir full, proceed as follows: a. Push the pushrod into the body several times quickly to expel any remaining air. b. If it is a remote reservoir, pinch the supply hose with your fingers two or three times to help move air into reservoir. 11. When the movement of the pushrod is .130″ (4mm) or less when stroked in Step 10, reinstall the master cylinder into the vehicle and couple it to the slave cylinder.

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Removal 1. Note the routing of the clutch slave cylinder to clutch master cylinder tube (7A512) line from clutch master cylinder (7A543) to the clutch slave cylinder. 2. Remove retainer pin from clutch master cylinder holding clutch slave cylinder to clutch master cylinder tube in place. 3. Raise the vehicle and install suitable safety stands. 4. Disconnect clutch slave cylinder to clutch master cylinder tube from external clutch slave cylinder. On vehicles equipped with concentric clutch slave cylinders, remove tube using Clutch Coupling Tool T88T-70522-A. Installation 1. Follow the removal procedures in reverse order. 2. Bleed system. Refer to appropriate clutch hydraulic system bleeding procedure in the Adjustments portion of this section. Hydraulic Clutch Control System, 4.9L, 5.0L and 5.8L Gasoline Engines with Mazda R2 and S5-47 ZF Light-Duty and 7.3L and 7.5L S5-47 ZF Heavy-Duty Transmissions

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Hydraulic Clutch Control System IMPORTANT: The clutch hydraulic system is to be serviced as a COMPLETE UNIT!!!. It is a sealed unit and has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Individual components of the system are not available for service, except the slave cylinder actuator pushrod plastic retainer strap. Do not attempt to bleed the clutch hydraulic system. The bleed screw located on the clutch hydraulic slave cylinder is used for the factory fluid fill only. WARNING: Do not attempt to bleed the clutch hydraulic unit. Any observed fittings are there for factory use only. The unit comes as a complete pre-bled unit. REMOVAL 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Block clutch pedal up to prevent pedal from being depressed with slave cylinder removed from transaxle. Remove air induction system. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery. Disconnect positive battery cable from battery Remove hold-down retaining nut and screw, and lift off battery hold-down retainer. Lift the battery of vehicle, and place in a safe location. Remove battery tray bolts and tray. IMPORTANT: One bolt is located in the fender well. NOTICE: Removal of the hydraulic damper with a power tool prior to removal of the actuator could result in breaking off the hydraulic line. IMPORTANT: Prior to removing the slave cylinder from the clutch housing, make sure that the clutch hydraulic system has sufficient fluid. Refer to the “Clutch Hydraulic Fluid Check” procedures in this manual. (This is not necessary if the clutch hydraulic system is being removed to be replaced.) 8. Rotate actuator 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward housing in order to disengage the bayonet connector and remove from clutch housing. 9. Remove two hydraulic damper to clutch housing nuts and slide damper and bracket assembly off studs.

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The Volkswagen New Beetle Service Manual: 1998.-.2002 1.8L turbo, 1.9L TDI diesel, 2.0L gasoline
Maintenance procedures: from routine oil changes to poly-ribbed belt replacement.
• Engine and cylinder head service, including timing belt and camshaft replacement.
• Component testing, removal and installation for engine lubrication, cooling, and exhaust systems.
• Turbocharger service, removal and installation, and intercooler components.
• Fuel supply system service, including fuel pump delivery volume test, electrical checks, EVAP system, as well as mechanical and electronic throttle control (E-gas).
• Fuel injection and ignition system component identification, electrical testing, technical data, and throttle valve control module adaptation using the factory scan tool.

• Drivetrain maintenance, troubleshooting, adjustment and repair, including hydraulic clutch, gearshift linkage, drive axles, and transmission removal and installation.
• Repair information for ABS/EDL/ASR/ESP brake and stability systems.
• Suspension system service including struts, CV joints, stabilizer bar, rear wheel bearings, wheel alignment specifications and steering system.
• Interior and exterior body equipment: airbags, bumpers, front and rear body sections, doors, hood, lids, lights, instrument panel/dashboard, sunroof, seatbelts, seats, trim panels.
• Heating and air conditioning repair, including A/C electrical component replacement, compressor, fresh air blower, sensors, and vacuum hose layout.